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Who is the greatest free solo climber ever?
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drubt


Oct 6, 2004, 5:50 PM
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Greatest free solo climber seems much to broad of a label. Does anyone know who has free soloed the hardest grade? Huber's latest is the highest i know of but then i don't know much...


usmc_2tothetop


Oct 6, 2004, 7:33 PM
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Hershey, Osman although he had to take that to the next level. Croft is quite impressive as well.


montaniero


Oct 18, 2004, 12:00 PM
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That question has an easy answer. Let's see....if you are looking at the greatest free solo climber "ever" just think of the first guy "ever" that free soloed the greatest mountain in the world.

That is none other than Reinhold Messner, which soloed Everest via north ridge, with only a light tent, sleeping bag, stove, ice ax and crampons. No oxygen, no fixed lines, no sherpas. That's as free and as solo as it can get...


rendog


Oct 18, 2004, 5:05 PM
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I don't know about the "greatest free solol climber ever" moniker, hell I won't even try to go there,

so here is my list of soloists that have impressed the hell out of me:

Guy Lacelle: Terminator Trophy wall solo in a day (terminator, Sea of vapours, replicant)

Will Gadd: Mt. Robson in a day car to car

Derek Hersey: et Al

Dan Osmond: et Al

michael reardon: nuts

Mike Verwey: Gimmie Shelter

Reinhold (?) Messner: Everest

Alex Lowe: et Al

and really anyone out there that has the balls to go out and do something solo that most parties would think twice about even with a rope. man the list could go on an on an on


kap


Oct 18, 2004, 6:26 PM
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I don't know if he was greatest, but Walter Bonatti certainly deserves a mention: solo winter ascents of the north faces of the Matterhorn and Grand Jorasses, among others.


rocloco


Oct 18, 2004, 6:37 PM
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In reply to:
That is none other than Reinhold Messner, which soloed Everest via north ridge, with only a light tent, sleeping bag, stove, ice ax and crampons. No oxygen, no fixed lines, no sherpas. That's as free and as solo as it can get...



Actually you could be naked with only your balls tethered to you (In the case of us guys) but yeah I hear you...


dangle


Nov 22, 2004, 1:26 AM
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Finally decided to wade through this one (I should be working).

Kudos to bvb on Preuss. Too many posts sound as if only americans climb. Glad to see Walter was also included if belatedly. What about Emilio Comici?

But there was a conspicuous american absence;
HINT
first free-solo of the Diamond
the DNB
Perilous Journey

sometimes posts under the moniker charlieclimber.....


ammon


Nov 22, 2004, 1:37 AM
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Cedar Wright...... one of the best free soloists???

Where do you guys get your information from?


dood


Nov 22, 2004, 9:27 AM
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Since Norman Clyde has been mentioned...how about Bolton Brown? Among others he soloed Mt. Clarence King in 1896.

Doug Mantle has soloed 247 Sierra Peaks, including many 5th class.


Partner tradman


Nov 22, 2004, 10:41 AM
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Two nominations that seem to have been overlooked:

Joe Brown
Don Whillans

They invented crack climbing, and frequently soloed routes which are real trouser-fillers even today!


waltereo


Nov 25, 2004, 4:57 AM
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Patrick Edlinger

You should see his video : La vie au bout des doigts

Unfortunately, it is in french, but the pictures are really nice. You can see him soloing a route in Verdon in France

in the video you can see him doing a one finger pull-up , thesmallest finger !!


areyoumydude


Nov 28, 2004, 11:22 PM
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In reply to:
Patrick Edlinger

You should see his video : La vie au bout des doigts

Unfortunately, it is in french, but the pictures are really nice. You can see him soloing a route in Verdon in France

in the video you can see him doing a one finger pull-up , thesmallest finger !!

I saw a movie on him from the early 80's. He solos this route in Verdon bearfoot. It also shows him slacklining. I wonder if he got that from Yosemite?


kpj24078


Nov 30, 2004, 11:06 PM
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Derek Hersey. :( :( :( :(


heneryhawk


Nov 30, 2004, 11:51 PM
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Last time I saw pete was 2001 I think he was getting in some bouldering in the Owens river gorge Bishop Ca


brad84


Nov 30, 2004, 11:56 PM
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anyone mention tomo cesin?

he put up a pretty ridiculous new route free solo in the himalayas consisting of 5.11 rock (i would like to say it was on k2?? i could be mistaken). unfortunately i cant remember the details, so if anyone is enlightened in regard to the specifics, post up.


glyrocks


Dec 2, 2004, 11:13 PM
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In reply to:
real trouser-fillers

hah


Partner camhead


Dec 2, 2004, 11:21 PM
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In reply to:
But there was a conspicuous american absence;
HINT
first free-solo of the Diamond
the DNB
Perilous Journey

sometimes posts under the moniker charlieclimber.....

Charlie Fowler, right?

And I also recall hearing that Bachar once swore that he would never solo the DNB.


kachoong


Dec 2, 2004, 11:37 PM
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In reply to:
Two nominations that seem to have been overlooked:

Joe Brown
Don Whillans

They invented crack climbing, and frequently soloed routes which are real trouser-fillers even today!

I'll second that!

....These pair climbed a hell of a lot of routes with only a hip/shoulder belay and shitty rope with no protection....


clmbr3


Feb 8, 2005, 11:04 AM
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Almost all the greats have been mentioned...

I don't think I saw JC Lafaille's name, though. and he's definitely up there.
Himalayan peaks (I think he's soloed five 8000m peaks), nasty alpine walls, 5.13 sport routes.

Stevie Haston has done some really impressive alpine soloing as well.

Messner gets the press for his Himalayan feats, but he also soloed a testpiece WI 4/5 in the late 60s and lots of stuff in the Dolomites...

And though several of Tomo Cesen's ascents are heavily disputed (like the one someone else mentioned), he's got an impressive all around soloing ticklist as well (mid 13 sport, multi pitch 11+ to go along with his alpine exploits)

Did someone mention John Arran? (by the way, his website is great- www.thefreeclimber.com --read his article on soloing Jules Verne!!!!)


towsonclimber


Feb 14, 2005, 6:49 AM
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i would go with potter cureently but still say that no one in climbing can be called the best due to style differences in the climber and the climbs

i know where i climb that i am one of the most powerful climbers but have shit for footwork but there are a few other guys half a grade around me who are all feet and static with no power

like a grading system it is subjective


nich_popsicle


May 1, 2005, 10:09 PM
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Haha numbnuts, you killed the post... "Most powerful," my butt... I suppose I am the static footwork king, muhahahaha


oldrnotboldr


May 24, 2005, 5:38 PM
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I would vote for Reinhold Messner. He was the first to solo all 8000m peaks without support or oxygen. This on top of all of his other accomplishments garners my vote.


yosemite


May 24, 2005, 5:59 PM
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In reply to:
Reinhold Messner.... was the first to solo all 8000m peaks without support or oxygen.

Say what?


landgolier


May 24, 2005, 6:00 PM
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codhands


May 24, 2005, 6:14 PM
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John Muir

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