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case22
Mar 25, 2002, 10:09 PM
Post #26 of 32
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Registered: Jul 26, 2001
Posts: 204
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I have two pairs.
A slipper pair for the gym, Boreal Quetzal
A pair for outside, La Sportiva Merak
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camhead
Mar 25, 2002, 10:41 PM
Post #27 of 32
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Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939
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Most of those tight fitting sport/boulder/gym shoes flat out HURT for foot jams in cracks (whether single or multi-pitch). Since I am poor, my one pair of shoes (Boreal Spirits) was bought a little on the large size so that I can go to Indian Creeka and still walk the next day.
I guess that theoretically I would not do too well on ultra edgy sport routes, but I've yet to experience any problems.
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ctrlaltdel
Mar 26, 2002, 12:10 AM
Post #28 of 32
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Registered: Mar 22, 2002
Posts: 37
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If your not in need a new shoes for whatever the reason, I say wait. Now when your current one gets to the point of needing a resole then you may consider getting another pair so you can continue to climb while your first pair is being resoled. At that time consider how different style/type of shoe will be more to your climbing needs. I personally keep a pair that's comfortable so I can wear it for hours in the gym. Outside I go for performance since I can take them off between climbs and comfort is secondary. I think if you go from being a beginner to regular climber, two pairs will help you keep climbing as one will need resoling or washing and a backup pair comes in handy.
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passthepitonspete
Mar 26, 2002, 12:40 AM
Post #29 of 32
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Registered: Oct 10, 2001
Posts: 2183
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Pat,
Chill.
You only really need one pair of shoes. You can use the same shoes in the gym as you do up on the rock in Sudbury.
Question: Why would you want more than one pair of shoes?
Reason: So that you could climb a little bit better in different situations.
Truth: If you are a very experienced climber, this may be true. If you are not all that experienced, it probably ain't gonna make that much of a difference, unless for instance you might be focusing on a very specific type of outdoor climbing, like say you do a lot of slab climbing, or you do some extreme edging on buildings.
But for the most part, your shoes will not make you that much better of a climber.
The only thing that will make you a better climber is you!
Let's look at this another way - let's do a cost-benefit analysis.
Let's say you want to buy a second pair of shoes. What do they cost? A hundred and twenty bucks? Plus a ton of tax, this being Ontario and all, eh?
How many hours would you have to work to earn that much money? What's minimum wage? Seven bucks an hour?
What happens if you invest that same amount of effort at climbing, instead of working? Not only will you end up paying less tax (both income and sales!) but you may well end up becoming a better climber, too.
The benefits of avoiding work can seldom be understated.
These are the sorts of things you need to consider in your Journey Towards Climbing Bum-dom.
Perhaps this is worth more than a new pair of shoes.
Now assuming you actually do choose to work, which even *I* am fortunately obliged to do from time to time, you should consider what economists call the opportunity cost of your money, meaning something along the lines of,
"what could I do with this extra money instead of buying shoes?"
If you choose to become a Real Climber, then you will need more equipment, since Real Climbing is generally recognized as starting at the bottom and climbing upwards - though some around here would disagree. If you agree that the summit is indeed a worthy goal, and you cannot walk up the backside of the mountain to get there, then you may need some stuff to help you get there without dying along the way.
[Note: I have yet to meet anyone except a Real Climber on the summit, though the same cannot be said for the base.]
The same money that you could spend on a second or third pair of shoes could, in the highly biased opinion of Dr. Piton, be much better invested in the purchase of a set of wired stoppers, some hexes, some slings and some carabiners.
I would not buy a second pair of shoes until I had a reasonably complete lead rack.
I'm glad your dad "gets me", or he'd probably ban you from the website.
Yours,
Dr. Piton
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beyond_gravity
Mar 26, 2002, 4:18 AM
Post #30 of 32
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Registered: Jan 2, 2002
Posts: 5078
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dont forget to leave room for the wool socks
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climber1
Mar 26, 2002, 5:44 AM
Post #31 of 32
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Registered: May 5, 2000
Posts: 484
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three pair:
Boreal Diablos for cracks
5.10 Moccasyms for face/slab
5.10 Spires for multi-pitch
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bulldog
Mar 26, 2002, 7:07 AM
Post #32 of 32
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Registered: Dec 7, 2001
Posts: 103
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Gee, I only have 1 pair - the cheapest I could find at the time - 5.10 Spires.
They seem to work well - although one of my favorite points throughout the climbing day is removal of said shoes and the ensuing sigh that goes along with the action.
But then again, I'm just a weekend warrior.
Bulldog
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