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chops
Feb 18, 2004, 5:09 PM
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In reply to: Seems to me that running laps on something to easy defeats the purpose of running laps. HeartAche is easier (technically) than LAG, once you have climbed it once or twice, the route is actually quite easy and idea for running laps near that grade.
Just from personal experience, I've seen people that were able to redpoint 9s at the bluff, but have problems redpointing long 8s at places like the obede. Unlike LAG, most of the 9's at the bluff have good (or bad depending on how you look at it) rests and only involve one or two moves at its grade. IMHO, it would be better run laps on sustained 8's at the bluff and develop a good baseline for endurance. That way you can feel confident on you're ablities when making trips to the obede or the red.
Yeah, its me Eman, kept trying antagonize you but you didn't bite. Everything is great, moved back to clarksvegas to be closer to the families. Don't know if you heard but the bluff has seen a resurge in route development. There have some good ones too, typical bluff climbing. You'll have plenty of new lines to taste when you make it back.
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okinawatricam
Feb 18, 2004, 10:26 PM
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I was there last year, got to play on some oif the new stuff, it was good. I don't remember to many rest on Doyle's new route on the beach, but I could be wrong.
I am not sure when I'll get there again. I might be there for two days in May, I may not. JOhn and I are headed to the Valley for an ElCap route, than my wife and I are driving from Seatle to New Hampshirehitting the prime spot along the way.
I get regular update about what happens at the bluff from some locals. I guess that's one advantage of owning a third of it.
What are you doing in Clarks now? Finish school?
Me I'm bolting four or five new routes a weeks. During the last month mostly two pitch stuff: with no rest.
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andy_lemon
Feb 19, 2004, 5:29 AM
Post #53 of 65
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In reply to: you should work on Hardache on High Water wall.
Man, there is this super secret crimp in the middle of that route. I sware. The time I was on that thing everyone was like "you got to hit that crimp, to your left" and I was like "what crimp, where?" :lol:
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okinawatricam
Feb 19, 2004, 6:21 AM
Post #54 of 65
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GREAT NOW you gave the secret away. It's not there it's not there!
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chops
Feb 19, 2004, 7:07 PM
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Graduated this pasted May and got a job with a local civil firm here in town. Haven't been able to climb at all due to an ACL reconstruction on the left knee. Screwed the damn thing while bouldering back in late April....been rehabbing ever since. Great to hear all is well, sure I'll catch you when you're down visiting.
Heartache is definitely one of those routes that will screw you if you get out of sequence...
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okinawatricam
Feb 19, 2004, 10:38 PM
Post #56 of 65
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OH, please. I watched a one armed climbe do Hearth Ache
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shank
Feb 19, 2004, 10:39 PM
Post #57 of 65
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I might could do it then :lol:
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chops
Feb 19, 2004, 11:03 PM
Post #58 of 65
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In reply to: OH, please. I watched a one armed climbe do Hearth Ache
Nothing but dynos huh????Impressive redpoint for sure.
Give me a break Eman,...I've seen seasoned climbers get out of sequence on that route and have a hard time with it. To say that Heartache isn't sequence dependent is a load of horsesh_t. Just read your previous response about the crimper........
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okinawatricam
Feb 20, 2004, 1:24 AM
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Next thng I'll hear is that ELevator hoes is Sequensial. I think people rely to much on the their arms and not enough on their Foot work. Most of the holds on HEarth Hache you can match hands/feet on. How sequencial can it be.
Seems to me that some climbers get nervous on that route and forget how to climb. It was Shanes first lead, and he had never climb it prior either.
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guangzhou
Jan 30, 2005, 3:22 AM
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I see noone has managed to figure out what "LAG" stands for after all this time.
Eman
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shank
Jan 30, 2005, 6:31 PM
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Lee Ann Somthing.
I believe it was a girlfriend of yours' initials wasn't it?
8^)
Steve
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climbhigh2005
Feb 11, 2005, 11:09 PM
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Registered: Jun 14, 2003
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Hey.. I'm glad to see this post is still circulating and I STILL haven't been to Kings Bluff... haha... I think I'm going to go for a day at the biggening of my spring break trip to the red... I will be in nashville monday night, so I may climb that sunday and monday, then head to the red... maybe we can meet up... peace
Melissa
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jackhammer
Feb 13, 2005, 4:19 AM
Post #63 of 65
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Registered: Dec 22, 2004
Posts: 255
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My partner and I will be at the Bluff on Sunday afternoon and the whole day on Monday. If anyone is looking for a group to climb with, PM me or just leave a message at the tone. Look for the Jetta and ask for the Canadian guy.
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jackhammer
Feb 14, 2005, 1:44 PM
Post #64 of 65
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Registered: Dec 22, 2004
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Kimg's Bluff today.
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