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ajoys


Feb 29, 2004, 12:40 PM
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Front Range climbing partners - ongoing thread
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Just moved to colorado (Evergreen) from SoCal and I am looking for partners.

Have been climbing on and off for three years, 80% of the time at JTree with the rest at williamson and tahquitz.

I don't climb all that hard at the moment, (5.8/9sh following, depending on type of climb, with some lead climbing, hope to lead more), but I am very safe and knowledgable, very comfortable placing pro and setting up anchors etc.... Most of my past climbing has been trad, multi pitch at tahquitz with some sport and bouldering thrown in. I also have some very limited aid climbing experience, no ice climbing experience. I am up for anything, sport, trad, bouldering, leisure day of top roping etc... doesn't matter, just want to get back out on the rock. I have enough gear for everything but aid.

Indoor climbing is OK too, rockn & jamn north or paradise.

Ideally I would like to hook up with someone who climbs harder (shouldn't be hard to find that :D ) so that I can start to push myself, lead more, get better etc.. but it really doesn't matter, I just want to get out and have some fun.

ajoys27 at yahoo.com


zozo


Feb 29, 2004, 1:38 PM
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Im going to be moving up to Boulder/Arvada soon and am in the springs right now. I think we are probably in the same boat skill wise but I climb with some people who are alot better than I am for the same reasons. Just pm me when your interested.


timstich


Feb 29, 2004, 1:50 PM
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I've had a hell of a time getting people to climb this winter. Just moved to Denver area myself. I've been out plenty of times, but not often enough. Let's all get together and do some climbing. I'm PM both you guys with my contact info.


zozo


Feb 29, 2004, 1:53 PM
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Ive been driving up to boulder three times a week and the Flatirons look pretty intriguing!!


powrslave


Feb 29, 2004, 2:37 PM
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I am just outside of Denver and need partners woohoo. Especially this spring. I mostly have sport experience, but am willing to do trad with the right people. Let me know.


Partner angry


Feb 29, 2004, 6:08 PM
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I too am new to Denver. I do trad or boulder, not a sport climber as evidenced by the fights I pick on this site. Not sure what kind of time I'll have but I'd like to get out once a week this spring and summer. I climb a bit harder than 5.8-5.9 but I imagine you'll catch on to the harder stuff rather quick. I'll send out some PM's too.


crazyfingers


Mar 1, 2004, 8:04 PM
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I am looking for partners in the Denver area also. Drop me a line, mostly boulder but do some sport climbing and TR also. I am member at rockn and jamn in Thorton. Looking forward to the new gym to open down south. Can't wait for warmer weather to get outside on real rock. Try to climb 3 days/nights a week Tues, Thurs and Sun. Send me a PM if you're going to be up at R&J.

Cheers,

KT


hstewart


Mar 1, 2004, 8:21 PM
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i recently moved to boulder and am also looking for partners in the area. i love to get out to eldo on warm days, and not opposed to checking out some sport areas.

i also pull plastic at BRC two or three times a week.

pm if you're interested.


timstich


Mar 1, 2004, 10:52 PM
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In reply to:
Ive been driving up to boulder three times a week and the Flatirons look pretty intriguing!!

I've got the guide book. Did a little climbing on the First once. I hike around there frequently, so I'm pretty familiar with the place now. If you want to hit some routes there, I'm all over that. Of course, there are many raptor closures there, but many good areas are open.


hawk233


Mar 3, 2004, 8:41 PM
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Add yet another person who needs partners.

I sport, toprope, and boulder.

Solid 5.8, onsight 5.9 90% of the time, and can occasionally whip out a 5.10 and even have been know to do an 11.

I want to learn trad so if you need a second I'm all to happy to apply.

Finally, I'm a pilot and will be doing my mountain flight training soon, so cool climbs that would normally require some lengthly driving can be made alot shorter by plane.


elcommunisto


Mar 6, 2004, 4:40 AM
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I'm also looking for a partner. I've got an off-peak membership to Rock'n & Jam'n (9-11 pm, M-F), and I'd like to meet more people in the area. I'd also love to try some outdoor climbing this year, so anybody that might be interested in helping an outdoor newbie would be appreciated.

Thanks!
EC


timstich


Mar 6, 2004, 5:13 AM
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So, who's going to climb this Sunday? PM me if you want a belay on some sport routes. Or e-mail me at timstich@yahoo.com. We'll be heading out at a decent morning hour, neither too early nor too late. No problem if you want to join us.


zozo


Mar 6, 2004, 5:31 AM
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Hey,

I just pm'ed a bunch of you guys. Id love to get a group together, and it sounds like were all fairly new to the area and climbing in general. Im still in the springs and my plans to move up to Denver have ben pushed back but Im still going up to Boulder 3 days a week.

My schedule is thus...

In Boulder Mon, Wed, and Fri - could gym it in Boulder or Denver after 5:30. I climb at Paradise sometimes on thurs nights to.

Free all day Tues and Thurs, Sat and Sun. I forget who it was but Im real interested in climbing at the flatirons. Are Raptor closings just a spring thing?

If anyone is interested in climbing at the garden feel free to give me a buzz.

Later


timstich


Mar 6, 2004, 5:40 AM
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I'll be swining in from my job in BFE Longmont pretty soon to boulder up in the areas near the Flatirons soon as the weather gets less snowy. I'll bring all of my gear just in case some routes can be done, but sunlight-wise I'm thinking bouldering is the ticket. A friend of mine in Boulder agrees. After that, post-work climbing in spring will be the weekly ritual, either Eldo, Flatirons, Boulder Canyon or Clear Creek and Golden. Climb until dark, and I do mean dark. Weekends climb at least one full day, meaning all day. Road tripping in spring. No money for flying trips, but hopefully later in the year.

A'ight.


zozo


Mar 6, 2004, 5:52 AM
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I'll pack all my gear in my trunk!


timstich


Mar 6, 2004, 6:09 AM
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Oh and, just a suggestion everyone. Unless you have plans to do multi-pitch or backcountry routes, there's no reason to keep the group small other than you are into that mindset. If you think climbing with one person is the only way to go, then like Mr. T., I pity you. I've seen people climb like that and have these exclusive arrangements evaporate, leaving them without a climbing partner. Que disastre!

If you were going to break out of the Gulag, would you just bring one partner? No, you would be wise to bring a third. If one of you dies on the frozen tundra, this leaves a hot meal for his comrades. It is a model of redundancy that works. Bring a backup when cragging.


nthusiastj


Mar 6, 2004, 8:30 AM
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Hey, Can I get in on this too? I am pretty new to Boulder, but having trouble finding partners. I climb 2x a week at the BRC (T,TH) and try to get outside on the weekend. I am leading .8 trad right now, but want to get solid at .9 or higher this year. I also lead about .10d sport and would like to step that up too. I live about 10 min from Eldo and the Flatirons and LOVE Lumpy Ridge. Give me a call or PM if you anyone wants to get out or in the gym. 703-867-0153

Jeremy


zozo


Mar 6, 2004, 8:58 AM
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I just spoke with a friend who told me alot of the climbs at the flatirons are really runout and thin on protection - I would love to climb there I just think someone with much more lead experience would be good to have for those.

How does Golden Cliffs sound next saturday to everyone?


braon


Mar 6, 2004, 9:08 AM
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I'm looking to head out Monday if anyone's interested. I was thinking somewhere in South Platte, but am open for most anything. Since I'm coming down from Vail, it doesn't really matter to me where I go. PM me or email to bswickes at hotmail.


kinch


Mar 7, 2004, 10:27 AM
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Golden Cliffs next Sat sounds great to me. PM me and we can arrange time, place, etc.


zozo


Mar 7, 2004, 10:47 AM
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So far I know of Myself, timstich and hstewart plus some others are planning to Climb at Golden Cliffs next sat. Details coming later. Looking forward to meeting everybody.


nthusiastj


Mar 7, 2004, 12:01 PM
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Golden cliffs sound good to me for Sat. What about Eldo for Sun?

Jeremy


ajoys


Mar 7, 2004, 4:40 PM
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I am up for it.

Just let me know where and what time.

I am assuming golden cliffs is a sport climbing area, yes?

Eldo sounds good to but I can't lead up anything even remotely challenging, yet.


timstich


Mar 7, 2004, 7:56 PM
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In reply to:
I just spoke with a friend who told me alot of the climbs at the flatirons are really runout and thin on protection - I would love to climb there I just think someone with much more lead experience would be good to have for those.

How does Golden Cliffs sound next saturday to everyone?

Oh, don't let the runouts bother you on the Flatirons. They are fine. The rock is solid and provides good friction. And, I might add, many of them are rated below 5.3. My wife and I climbed a 5.0 even on the First. Three pitches of 5.0. Where else can you find something that easy? And I could get good pro.

The main pain in the ass with the Flatirons is the wildlife closures. They have complex maps showing what is closed. The Third is off limits until August for example. No matter, though. There are tons of areas out there like the Seal, the Matron, the whole First, The Slab, The Amphitheater, and so on. Snow and ice on the rock is what's keeping me away at the moment.


timstich


Mar 7, 2004, 7:58 PM
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In reply to:
Golden cliffs sound good to me for Sat. What about Eldo for Sun?

Jeremy

If the six inches of snow melt in Eldo by Sunday, then it would be fine. We just chose Golden Cliffs because it was snow free on Saturday. I can now confirm that much of the snow in the canyons near Denver is melting. We climbed at Highwire Crag in Clear Creek and were sweating today. Nice.

Many of us were talking about doing a sport outing as our first gig, but I would be willing to switch to Eldo if that is the consensus. I prefer climbing there myself and have lead about a dozen or so routes out there now at Wind Tower, Redgarden, and West Ridge.


timstich


Mar 7, 2004, 8:06 PM
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In reply to:
Hey, Can I get in on this too?

Hell yes. This is a group thang. Everyone should have a group thang going in addition to their exclusive partnerships. And we don't have very regular partners...so...


timstich


Mar 7, 2004, 8:15 PM
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OK EVERYONE! VOTE PLEASE.

As the week progresses and the weather reports roll in, we'll be able to nail down a plan. If it's sunny, the sky's the limit. We can go anywhere. If it's marginal, then we'll probably end up at Golden Cliffs (sigh). No matter, for we'll make the best of it whatever we do.

So for now let's vote on where we go. Suggestions are so far:

Golden Cliffs - sport area, warm, basalt rock, fairly crowded.
Eldorado Canyon - trad, can be warm or windy, sandstone, excellent
Boulder Canyon - primarily trad, but some sport, granite, some sun.
Clear Creek Canyon - primarily sport, gneiss, pretty fun place actually

So vote for one of those four destinations. While you are at it, mention what gear you own and whether or not you even lead trad. If most of you don't, then those of us that do will need to pick up the gear slack. And let's plan on either having a beer afterwards or some food.

-Tim


jer


Mar 7, 2004, 8:55 PM
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I vote...Vedauwoo. ;)


kinch


Mar 7, 2004, 9:09 PM
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I vote Golden Cliffs because I've got a particular climb I'm working there. But if we end up going somewhere else I've got a rack and I lead trad up to about 5.8 or 9.


timstich


Mar 7, 2004, 9:20 PM
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I vote...Vedauwoo. ;)

So is that where you've been climbing lately? Last time it was Cynical Pinnacle, and right before the stupid season gets shut down by the raptor closure. Get out on the rock this week didn't you?


ebelay


Mar 7, 2004, 9:22 PM
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I'm moving to Boulder from Phoenix next week. I know virtually nobody so I'd love to hook-up with ya'll. I'll be available on evenings and weekends starting next Saturday.

Eric


jer


Mar 7, 2004, 10:23 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I vote...Vedauwoo. ;)

So is that where you've been climbing lately? Last time it was Cynical Pinnacle, and right before the stupid season gets shut down by the raptor closure. Get out on the rock this week didn't you?

I'm working on that raptor closure deal. I want to see written proof of these rules DIRECTLY from JEffCo. Every year I call and every year it's the same old schtick- noone knows what's up.

Today? South Platte again...5 pitches on Helen's dome, then 4 pitches on Acid Rock, and finally two pitches on Velcro wall to stand on top of Sheep rock and 'ave a look 'round. Incredible day...incredible weather. Ya gotta get out there, Stitchy.

Vedauwoo...yeah...been wanting to get back...weather looks good...Cynical is up in the air, so...Veda seems like the next best place to hone the crack endurance for I. Creek.

Jer


skycat


Mar 7, 2004, 10:48 PM
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Hmmm...this sounds like fun. If it's warm I would be up for meeting some new people and doing a little climbing. I live in Westminster so all of the destinations work for me.

Personally I've never climbed trad, so I don't have any trad gear, but I do have enough sport gear to set up 2 routes. I'm not a gear whore, nooooo never. :wink:

PM when you guys figure out the detail. :)


timstich


Mar 8, 2004, 7:29 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
I vote...Vedauwoo. ;)

So is that where you've been climbing lately? Last time it was Cynical Pinnacle, and right before the stupid season gets shut down by the raptor closure. Get out on the rock this week didn't you?

I'm working on that raptor closure deal. I want to see written proof of these rules DIRECTLY from JEffCo. Every year I call and every year it's the same old schtick- noone knows what's up.

Today? South Platte again...5 pitches on Helen's dome, then 4 pitches on Acid Rock, and finally two pitches on Velcro wall to stand on top of Sheep rock and 'ave a look 'round. Incredible day...incredible weather. Ya gotta get out there, Stitchy.

Vedauwoo...yeah...been wanting to get back...weather looks good...Cynical is up in the air, so...Veda seems like the next best place to hone the crack endurance for I. Creek.

Jer

Ah, I see what you are up to. Yes, Vedauwoo would be the place to do some splitter crack. I'd be happy to go up there sometime.


zozo


Mar 8, 2004, 7:45 AM
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I vote Golden Cliffs just cause Ive already told some people about it. Also this might be a good time for me to state my specs.....

I sport only but could follow a trad line. I climb in the 5.8 to 5.10 range but will try anything on a top rope. It sounds like Golden might have the best mix of stuff for everybody and different skill levels to. I have just started to lead, you can count my leads on one hand.


mother_sheep


Mar 8, 2004, 8:26 AM
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I'm in for Saturday. Golden Cliffs works for me. I'll have my kiddos in tow who will be climbing, hunting for bugs and building forts. And no worries for those of you who've had bad karma w/kiddos at the crags. They're very well behaved and a pleasure to be around. :-) Plus GC will work well since I'm sure there will be a wide variety of levels here. You can TR a bunch of the routes there and there are several moderate sport leads. I have full sport rack, which I'll bring and gear to set up TR's. Now let's just hope for nice weather. I've gotta say yesterday the weather in the Platte was unbeatable!

Sunday may be a non-kid day. So I may need a partner for Eldo then if the weather's good.


breaksnclimbs


Mar 8, 2004, 10:00 AM
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Yo, I just saw this thread- looks like we need a boulder climbers thread!!
I've lived in boulder my whole life and definitely have trouble finding partners sometimes, work schedules confilict etc. If any one wants to head to Eldo with me this weekend I'll be pushing my limits on some "easy" 10s
Trad of course, probably the west ridge, where its always sunny and warm :wink:


ajoys


Mar 8, 2004, 11:41 AM
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I would prefer eldo myself but Golden would be OK too.

I have a pretty decent trad rack, 1.5sets nuts, set of cams from small alien to about BD #4, set of hexs that I hardly use, rope and all the quickdraws, various slings, biners, lockers, cordelette etc... I also have a boulder pad if anyone wants to boulder.

Timstitch,

If the group goes to golden and you (or anyone else) really want to go to eldo, let me know. I can follow up to about 5.9, have lead at Jtree to 5.7, tahquitz to 5.6 and I am committed to getting better. I have the whole weekend free. Could do Golden on sat and eldo on sunday or just about anywhere else.


crazyfingers


Mar 8, 2004, 12:01 PM
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My vote is Golden Cliffs because of my complete lack of Trad experience and like zozo I am a bit new to sport lead. Took a class a while back and have been doing a bunch of mock leads lately, up to easy 5.10s, TR up to mid/easy 5.11. Would love to get out on some real rock and add get some more 5.8 - 5.10 sport leads under my belt.

What time is everybody getting together and where should we meet?

Sounds like a blast!

Kyle


dlintz


Mar 8, 2004, 12:10 PM
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Ack, so jealous. I hope this thread is still around in Sep. since I may be finally making the move to Denver then.


zozo


Mar 8, 2004, 12:36 PM
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Ack, so jealous. I hope this thread is still around in Sep. since I may be finally making the move to Denver then.

Oh man you are out of luck! All climbing stops sept 1! :D


ajoys


Mar 9, 2004, 11:03 AM
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OK, Golden cliffs on saturday. What time and where exactly are we all meeting?

Remember, I just moved here so I am not exactly sure where it is.

Is it mostly sport climbing? Can I leave the trad rack at home and just bring the rope and draws?


mother_sheep


Mar 9, 2004, 12:24 PM
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You can leave your trad gear at home. There are some trad lines there too but mostly sport. But the weather isn't looking so great for Sat. Looks like we may get snow.


crazyfingers


Mar 9, 2004, 3:24 PM
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40% chance of snow, looks like it might be one of the colder days as well. I am up for a date change to Sunday, but will brave the elements (minus snow which equals slick wet rock) if need be on Saturday.


nthusiastj


Mar 9, 2004, 3:48 PM
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I vote for Golden on Sat. regardless of weather. lol

I lead 10.d ish sport and pretty solid .8 trad. I have a full trad rack, 10 sport draws, and 2 ropes.

If someone wants to hit Eldo on Sunday I can lead the moderate classics on the wind tower. Or follow. Or whatever.

Jeremy


zozo


Mar 9, 2004, 4:22 PM
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I could'nt climb sunday - So if the weather does go bad I might suggest meeting up at paradise in denver. That way we could at least meet and put names to faces and that kind of thing. Otherwise I say we just try again next weekend.


ajoys


Mar 9, 2004, 5:30 PM
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Thinking of gyms, I was planning on going to rocknandjamn north tomorrow (wed) night. Any takers?


timstich


Mar 9, 2004, 7:48 PM
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I'll be working late every weeknight this week it looks like. Don't freak about the weather just yet. It's only Tuesday night. Wait until Friday morning to make plans. And yes, we will definitely do this the following weekend if this weekend gets snowed out. We can also all go climb in a gym somewhere as well.

So, shall we just make this the ongoing Front Range Climbing thread?

Read you later...


nthusiastj


Mar 9, 2004, 8:09 PM
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Does 9:00 sound good at the first parking lot at Golden cliffs?
Here are directions for those that may need them.
http://www.climbingboulder.com/...n_aka_golden_cliffs/

Jeremy


zozo


Mar 10, 2004, 5:14 AM
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I think timstich is right, Im not counting this weekend out till thursday night early fri, but everytime I check the weather saturday looks worse and worse. Mid 30's wind and possible snow is the latest.

I think we should make this an ongoing front range thread, maybe we could edit the subject line?

I would say Paradise on sat, and I go to the gym on sunday here in the springs if anyone is close by. It doesnt open till 1:00 on sundays (it is the springs ya know!) If the weather is at all decent we could possible do a few routes at the garden as well.

Who here is interested in ticking off a bunch of 14 er's. Im making a list of peaks I want to do this summer, I'll post it later.


bustinmins


Mar 10, 2004, 6:14 AM
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3/10/04

I'm interested in climbing this weekend. I have Thursday-Sunday off at this time. Currently, I have some snowshoe plans this weekend that look like they may fall through. If you are game for a climb - whether trad, sport or gym - give me a PM or email me directly at bustinmins@yahoo.com and maybe we can work it out.

My abilities are listed on my profile.


breaksnclimbs


Mar 10, 2004, 8:29 AM
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In reply to:
So, shall we just make this the ongoing Front Range Climbing thread?

Yes... I look forward to climbing with all of you, sounds like we have
quite a few Front Rangers in here!!! :D


mother_sheep


Mar 10, 2004, 8:55 AM
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Looks like I can't make it to Table afterall. The boys have a b-day party at 1:00! Phooey! So I'll be hitting the gym around 9:30 at Paradise. If anyone feels like climbing Sat am in the gym with me, I could use a partner.


hstewart


Mar 10, 2004, 10:00 AM
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Looks like I can't make it to Table afterall. The boys have a b-day party at 1:00! Phooey!

Damn Tracy! I was so looking forward to meeting my fellow maniac. :cry:


holmeslovesguinness


Mar 10, 2004, 10:44 AM
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We'll hopefully be heading down to Eldo this weekend, weather permitting. I've got a pretty regular group of people that I climb with, but am always willing to hook up with somebody new. I live about 30 min north of Boulder, have a decent trad rack, will lead on gear up to about 5.9/10 (will thrash about on 5.11 sport as well). I also like to boulder out at Carter Lake (which is about 15 minutes from my house) if there is anybody in the Ft Collins / Loveland area that is interested in that.

Some enterprising Front Range rc.com type should organize a Vedauwoo trip when the weather warms up a bit more (maybe sometime in April?), it's a fun place to go for a weekend of cragging / camping and getting spanked on off-widths :wink: Lots of free camping, pretty relaxed scene for the most part (especially compared to most of the climbing areas down here).


skycat


Mar 10, 2004, 12:08 PM
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Thinking of gyms, I was planning on going to rocknandjamn north tomorrow (wed) night. Any takers?

Was already planing on getting some climbing in at RnJ tonight, probably around 6ish.


timstich


Mar 10, 2004, 4:43 PM
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In reply to:
We'll hopefully be heading down to Eldo this weekend, weather permitting. I've got a pretty regular group of people that I climb with, but am always willing to hook up with somebody new...

Hey Mike,

I just read your profile and noticed you lived in Austin. I lived there for 17 years and just moved here. crankenstein (Scott Hudson) also lived a stint in Austin. Now we should defiinitely all get together and climb. E-Rock sure must still be burned in your mind, eh? Ha ha ha! Eldo is a far cry from that.

This ongoing thread is excellent. It's especially nice to be able to post html links. So we can find MapQuest pages to give directions and just post them up. Getting chilly today and a little snow, but the weather can change mood anytime. And so into Thursday we go...


zozo


Mar 11, 2004, 4:35 AM
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Latest Weather - Snow and rain might hold off till afternoon, but cloudy, windy and cold, sunday is supposed to be even colder. Blech! I will chime in tommorow morning with what I think about coming up but there is no harm in just saying same time same place, next weekend. I may just take a drive into the area anyway to check it out.

On a similar note, anyone need a housemate or know of any leads in that area. Im looking to move into denver metro, or boulder, possibly longmont. I come with the coolest dog in the world in tow.

I would still like to get some climbing in on sat though, either at paradise, BRC (I will mortgage the house) or at R+J.


zozo


Mar 11, 2004, 4:43 AM
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Rocky Mountain Lobster Fest!!

I cant take it anymore! I love Colorado, but there is just one insurmountable problem! It's totally devoid of good seafood. I know of two others on this thread who will agree with me!

In that vein, I have a source who will ship Maine Lobster to me! Who's in?!


zozo


Mar 11, 2004, 1:56 PM
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Latest saturday forecast - Low 50's and sunny, clouds late. Looks like we could pull this off afterall.


holmeslovesguinness


Mar 11, 2004, 2:27 PM
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The forecast is looking pretty decent, so I think a few of us will be heading up to the Rincon Wall or Cadillac Crags Saturday morning. If you see a tall geek with a scrappy looking beard, that would be me.

Well, let's start thinking about a trip to Vedauwoo. I'm thinking middle to end of April, looks like temps should average around 50ish. Which is nice since I like to cover up as much skin as possible when thrutching on flesh eating off-widths. If anyone is up for a trip during that time, or would like to suggest another time, post away.


mingus


Mar 11, 2004, 2:56 PM
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In reply to:
Rocky Mountain Lobster Fest!!

I cant take it anymore! I love Colorado, but there is just one insurmountable problem! It's totally devoid of good seafood. I know of two others on this thread who will agree with me!

In that vein, I have a source who will ship Maine Lobster to me! Who's in?!

zozo that is about a twenty year old sentiment. I am from the east coast and I don't think that's been true since the early eighties. There's no way I'd pay someone to ship me lobsters (even if they are Maine lobsters) when I can buy live ones here.

Totally devoid? not even close man. 'course it ain't cheap, but last time I bought seafood back east it kinda blew me away how expensive it was there too.

Fresh flown halibut right now (daily I think) at Whole Paycheck.


zozo


Mar 11, 2004, 3:00 PM
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Sorry man, I used to be a chef in maine and the live lobsters you will get here are at least a week old and have probably been dipped in chemicals. My friend lives in Rockport can buy lobsters off the boat and overnight them to me (shipped in seawater).

I'll go with my plan! :D You can have one if you want.


kinch


Mar 11, 2004, 3:44 PM
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As long as the weather holds I'm in for Saturday at Golden Cliffs. I'll be the guy in the purple pickup truck. Who else is in?


zozo


Mar 11, 2004, 3:46 PM
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I'll be there - probably more like 10:00 10:30. I actually plan to drive up anyway even if the weather goes bad just to see the area and to look at a few places in Arvada.

Im going to need some serious directions. Im a directional tard. I can get lost in a cul de sac.


Partner phaedrus


Mar 11, 2004, 3:59 PM
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With temps in the 60s tomorrow afternoon (Friday, the 12th), I plan on clipping a few bolts at Golden Cliffs/North Table. I'll be there around 4-ish or so.


kinch


Mar 11, 2004, 4:02 PM
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Good directions, complete with map, can be had here:

http://www.climbingboulder.com/...n_aka_golden_cliffs/

PM if you want my cell phone number in case you get lost


ajoys


Mar 11, 2004, 5:24 PM
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In reply to:
Well, let's start thinking about a trip to Vedauwoo. I'm thinking middle to end of April, looks like temps should average around 50ish. Which is nice since I like to cover up as much skin as possible when thrutching on flesh eating off-widths. If anyone is up for a trip during that time, or would like to suggest another time, post away.

I am up for it. I have climbed exactly one off width climb on TR and all I have to say is the next day I felt like I was run over by a frieght train. :D


bustinmins


Mar 11, 2004, 7:19 PM
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Skibby,

I'm up for vertical play if the weather is so inclined. I have plans on Sat. night but the rest of the weekend is pretty open. If I didn't have the plans on Sat night I'd recommend a multi-day snowshoe.

I still want to do that if we have enough season left


nthusiastj


Mar 11, 2004, 8:36 PM
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OK. I am planning on being in the parking lot at 9ish Sat morning. I think that we can climb until the weather turns (if it does at all). I will be in a green Nissan Sentra with Virginia plates. My cell # is 703-867-0153. I have gear and 2 ropes.
Skibby,
It will be good to see you again. I was at the RMNP gathering last fall. It was a blast! I was road tripping then and decided to settle in Boulder. You may recognize me.

Jeremy


timstich


Mar 12, 2004, 6:47 AM
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Great. So I'll see all of you guys at Golden Cliffs Saturday AM around 9:45. I'll be in the blue Nissan Frontier and have a blue Lowe backpack. Marketa will be climbing as well. Woo hoo! I'll find you along the cliff somewhere if we don't meet in the lot. "Deck Chairs on the Titanic" might be a good 5.9 warmup.

Zozo, what's that bigass weird seafood mega-restaurant in Maine that serves you on paper plates and gives you plastic forks? The food was good, but strange decor.

Skibby. I can at least recognize you, so I'll know where everyone is. You've met Marketa as well. She's back into climbing after 9 months and loving it. What is "vertical play" anyway? Is that a form of wagering for beer/food? I'd be into wagering for beers at the Golden Brewery. Speaking of after climbing, that would be a good place to meet.

See everyone tomorrow.

-Tim Stich


zozo


Mar 12, 2004, 6:51 AM
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I'll see you all there, I will write "ZOZO" in black sharpie marker across my forehead.

Tim I will bring your cell # cause Im sure I will need to be guided in. As far as the resturaunt there are a million of those in Maine. What part of the state are you talking about?

Im going to bring some extra gear to.


zozo


Mar 12, 2004, 7:02 AM
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In reply to:
Zozo and I are going to have a competition - I told him I was the worst of the worst climbers and he's challenged me. :wink:

Wahoo!
SKibs

It's go time! Im bringing a camera for this one! Skibs you will learn never to underestimate my capacity for being a moron!


hstewart


Mar 12, 2004, 7:12 AM
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Zozo, what's that bigass weird seafood mega-restaurant in Maine that serves you on paper plates and gives you plastic forks? The food was good, but strange decor.

You've GOT to be talking about The Weathervane...all the nasty fried seafood you can stomach. It's a New England institution.


bustinmins


Mar 12, 2004, 7:16 AM
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I'm in - I'll be there around 9 - 930. I won't have a sharpie named forehead but I will be in the ugliest old "Ghetto Cruisin Crag Parkin" Pontiac 6000 with a mirror hanging down on the left side - it's nice! :)

I'm leading about 6-8 - anyone in that range? I know many of you are well over it - I just don't want to bore you to be my belay slave if I don't have to do so.


holmeslovesguinness


Mar 12, 2004, 9:21 AM
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For any Front Rangers that are interested - there is a Wilderness First Aid course that is being offered the weekend of April 2-4 in Denver - http://www.nols.edu/wmi/courses/schedule.shtml. I believe the cost is $135 and it is being sponsored by the Sierra Club.


crazyfingers


Mar 12, 2004, 12:25 PM
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Nice! Looks like a bunch of folks are headed to Golden and I just got the green light from my better half to spend Saturday morning climbing. I'll be the one in the black ford ranger 4X4. I am 6'7", dirty blonde hair, carrying a blue lowe alpine back pack. Plan to bring a rope, some draws, webbing and a guidebook. Want to lead, but TR works also... May bring a friend of mine that just started climbing. Hope to get there 9 - 9:30. Beta welcome, this is my first trip to table mountain.

Look forward to meeting everyone!

Kyle


zozo


Mar 12, 2004, 12:49 PM
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I was just kidding, Im not really going to write ZOZO across my forehead in black sharpie, but I will be sporting a nametag!


zozo


Mar 12, 2004, 1:53 PM
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Can anyone give me directions coming from the springs? Im not seeing any of these streets on my map. Thanks!

A few cell # might be a good idea to.


skycat


Mar 12, 2004, 2:56 PM
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Weather looks like it is going to be doable in the morning, so count me in at 9-9:30.

Dark green really dirty Mustang. I'm 5'1, kind of tiny, long brown hair, will be wearing a black and white fleece jacket. Can lead up to 9s (have lead higher but coming off a recent knee injury), am definately cool with TR if someone else wants to lead. Will bring my rope and gear, but if I don't have to haul it up to the cliffs I'd be a happy camper.

Can't wait to meet everyone.

Kelli


timstich


Mar 12, 2004, 9:40 PM
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In reply to:
Can anyone give me directions coming from the springs? Im not seeing any of these streets on my map. Thanks!

A few cell # might be a good idea to.

Check these mapquest maps out:

http://www.mapquest.com/...code=&submit=Get+Map

Final approach:

http://www.mapquest.com/...code=&submit=Get+Map

Written directions:

Take I-25 N. to Denver and take a left on 6 West. Drive down West 6 under I-70. This turns into 93 eventually passing into Golden and take a right on 19th St. at the light. Take a left on Ford just above the Safeway store and cross the creek and the bridge over 58. Take a right on 7th Place and a left on Boyd. Drive up the hill. As the street curves right, take the immediate left onto Peery Parkway. Drive to the end of the street and you will see the Golden Cliffs gated entrance. Park in the lower lot, unless it is full. The overflow lot it the upper lot.


neph


Mar 12, 2004, 10:57 PM
Post #82 of 7199 (236466 views)
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nevermind


elcommunisto


Mar 12, 2004, 11:24 PM
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I would go down there if I didn't get stuck working a 12 hour shift tonight. :/

Anybody up for Rockn & Jamn (North) nights next week (after 9 pm)?

EC


bustinmins


Mar 13, 2004, 6:58 AM
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Sorry Nate, coming from Aurora. Hopefully someone else can help you get to the crag today. My apologies...I'm running a bit late.

J "Tyler" D


timstich


Mar 13, 2004, 3:13 PM
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Just got back from having a bagle sammich and smoothie in Golden after the climbing. It was very warm today, despite occasional winds. It was great meeting Dave, Kyle, Kelly, Jeremy, James, and of course I had already known Martha. Some of us just climbed for a half day and a few of us stayed until about 2PM. Dave (zozo) will post some pics of today's get together at some point. It's unanimous: We are done with climibing that Golden basalt.

Next week's planned outing: Eldorado Canyon sandstone

Meet next Sunday at 9:00 AM in the Mesa Trailhead parking lot to the right and downhill from Dowdy Draw parking. This is right off of Eldorado Springs Rd, which is right before you drive into Bouder on 93. From the meeting place, we'll pile in as few cars as possible to get into the state park cheap. Some of us will be climbing on Wind Tower, while others may go to West Ridge and walls in between. The Bastille will still be in the shade and a bit chilly.

And of course this is mostly trad. The sport routes are rather stiff from what I have read. Plenty of us trad climb and will have topropes set up. Short multi-pitch routes can also easily be done in small groups. If you want to climb longer routes, you'll want to set up your partners for that when you get there or sometime before.

Sound good to everyone? As usual, we'll watch the weather forecasts.

Later,

-Tim S.


zozo


Mar 13, 2004, 3:42 PM
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Let me just echo what Tim said. The day turned out awesome. Everyone climbed great and nobobdy won the gumby a$$ climber of the day award between Skibby and myself. Looking forward to Eldorado next week!

Ive downloaded the pictures and Im missing a few people. sorry bout that, I;ll take more next week. I should have em up later tonight. Im going to make em small so I can get them all in the thread, but if you want a bigger on let me know.

Great time today! Thanks everybody!

PS Count me in on some of those shorter multipitch routes.


zozo


Mar 13, 2004, 5:31 PM
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Edited to remove old photos


vanessaw


Mar 13, 2004, 7:03 PM
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You guys seem to be getting a bit of a group thing going. I was wondering if something was planned over Easter whether you would tolerate an Aussie blow-in. I'm in Denver for a conference, then doing a bit of ice climbing but hope to get in a bit of rock-
I've only got 3 days (10, 11 and 12 April).
Lead to 5. 11 c/d sports, and about 5.10 c/d trad if I've got the Grade conversion thing right.
Email me at vwills@hotmail.com if more details needed.


gadsdenflag


Mar 13, 2004, 9:45 PM
Post #89 of 7199 (236466 views)
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I'm in Colorado Springs, looking for someone to climb with. I started climbing in September. What a great sport! This sight is cool.

I've only toproped and followed some sport climbs in the Garden, but I am interested in learning to trad too. I'm climbing around a 5.8 on rock, up to 5.10 in the gym.


pdwaugy


Mar 13, 2004, 10:24 PM
Post #90 of 7199 (236466 views)
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I live in Laramie, Wyoming. I know this summer a group of friends and my self would be more then willing to drive the possable 2-3 hours to go do some pimp climbing in Colorado. So if your intrested in us comming down or comming up to Wyoming to climb drop me a PM. Later.
Waugy


bustinmins


Mar 13, 2004, 11:13 PM
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I was great meeting you all this weekend. Sorry I didn't bag the trad route - but hey, next week is ELDO(weather permitting of course). :) It will be nice to be on "home turf" once again.

Kelli - if you want to go to Eldo tomorrow and play on the whale's tail - let me know. You'll see what a nice juggy pro setting route is all about. :) Regardless, you'll see it next week if this one doesn't work out.

To the two guys who fly, please get in touch with me via PM if you want any assistance finding instructors. I forgot which one of you had the private and which had 20 hours or so. Get in touch with me if you want a CFI named - Eric May. He's a climber too.

Well gang - I'm looking forward to climbing next weekend. Hope the weather holds. :)


Partner phaedrus


Mar 13, 2004, 11:31 PM
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I'm up for joining up with this group whenever I can, too. I'm just getting into trad leading, so I'm doing .4's-.6's at this point; for sport, I can lead .8's and .9's. I boulder, too, but I have no idea what I rate as a boulderer. I'm booked up next weekend, but I'm interested in whatever comes along after that.


elcommunisto


Mar 14, 2004, 1:28 AM
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Looks like it was a lot of fun. I wish I could've gone. :shakes fist: Stupid boss calling me at 7:15 Friday night telling me I have to be in at 8 and work a 12 hour shift.

I'll try and get down to Eldorado Canyon on Sunday, provided there are some easy routes to do (I can TR 5.9s, and if I remember how to sport, I could probably squeak out a few 5.8s. Never tried trad climbing, and not sure that I want to...yet.)

EC


zozo


Mar 14, 2004, 4:01 AM
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In reply to:
To the two guys who fly, please get in touch with me via PM if you want any assistance finding instructors. I forgot which one of you had the private and which had 20 hours or so. Get in touch with me if you want a CFI named - Eric May. He's a climber too.

Hey Chief that was me. I got just under 20 hours a few years ago, want to finish getting my liscense but it will probably be a year or so before I can commit the time and mula but I really want to start taking flights again, especially over the mountains. Dont you need a special CFI liscense to intruct mountain flying? I'll talk to you next weekend.


bustinmins


Mar 14, 2004, 8:02 AM
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Trad is great and it is a bunch of fun. Either way, I think the skills used in just placing a few stoppers(nuts) could fare well for you in your sport climbing too...just in case you get off route and in a bind. It would be nice to pop in a nut and say "TAKE". :)

There are several easy climbs for trad. Mind you, the Eldo ratings are a bit soft. Meaning, if it is rated a five, it might be a five or it might feel like a seven. Depends on you. Eldo is old school fun. Great rock and I'm sure you'll be hooked to trad once you're done.

There are several easy routes in Eldo, some single pitch many multi-pitch. Look at the west side of the "Whale's Tail" and you'll see some single pitch climbs: West Crack(5.2) and West Dihedral(5.4). Both of these are excellent introductions to ELDO. If you are interested in multi-pitch harder ratings - you can look to the Wind Tower which sports anything from multi-pitch 4-12's.

One word of guidance to those who haven't climbed too much trad - BRING A HELMUT! :) Loose rock is very noticeable on the Wind Tower.


In reply to:
Looks like it was a lot of fun. I wish I could've gone. :shakes fist: Stupid boss calling me at 7:15 Friday night telling me I have to be in at 8 and work a 12 hour shift.

I'll try and get down to Eldorado Canyon on Sunday, provided there are some easy routes to do (I can TR 5.9s, and if I remember how to sport, I could probably squeak out a few 5.8s. Never tried trad climbing, and not sure that I want to...yet.)

EC


bustinmins


Mar 14, 2004, 8:10 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
To the two guys who fly, please get in touch with me via PM if you want any assistance finding instructors. I forgot which one of you had the private and which had 20 hours or so. Get in touch with me if you want a CFI named - Eric May. He's a climber too.

Hey Chief that was me. I got just under 20 hours a few years ago, want to finish getting my liscense but it will probably be a year or so before I can commit the time and mula but I really want to start taking flights again, especially over the mountains. Dont you need a special CFI liscense to intruct mountain flying? I'll talk to you next weekend.

Instructors and pilots don't require any special certification to fly in the mountains, however, good training is always a good thing to have when operating in an area that may be outside of your experience realm. In this case, it not unlike climbing - same rules apply. I guess there is no law against being stupid but that is what natural selection is all about. :)

I have a friend who is well versed in mountain flying - if you want to go before you've gathered all of the moula to start - I'll give you his number at Eldo.

Good luck on your climbing and your flying. I enjoy both!


bustinmins


Mar 14, 2004, 8:22 AM
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I'm up for joining up with this group whenever I can, too. I'm just getting into trad leading, so I'm doing .4's-.6's at this point; for sport, I can lead .8's and .9's. I boulder, too, but I have no idea what I rate as a boulderer. I'm booked up next weekend, but I'm interested in whatever comes along after that.

It seems that you and I are at the same level in regards to climbing. I'm capable of leading 4-5 single pitch trad and 6-7 multi-pitch sport.

If you are decent at setting up multi-pitch anchors, I need some assistance in that area. I place bomber protection and just need some practice at linking up the pieces. I am sure I can do the cordelette thing but you know - it isn't always that easy. It's those situations that will take me a little time to grasp and a little more experience before I'm super comfy doing it. It's just like anything else, I just need a little more practice and then I'll be fine. :)

If you are so inclined, I'm up for climbing with you - even if it has to be single pitch. I enjoy the west side of the Whale's tail for learning to place pro but I'm ready to graduate to the Wind Tower 4's(Breezy and Bomb) to work on my anchor placements. I guess we could climb those routes that are close to the rap rings - practice placing an anchor, if we like it, continue - if not - then rap. That solves a lot of problems about the unknowns. :)


crazyfingers


Mar 14, 2004, 8:34 AM
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Hey Everybody,

Just wanted to post a quick note to echo the appreciation already rollinging in this thread. It was a great day, sweet weather, great people, nice pictures. To all it was a pleasure meeting you and I look forward to climbing with you all again soon.

Tim made a great point while we where resting beween climbs. This is aboslutely a group thing! It seemed we were all open to meeting new partners, climing new areas and making new friends. Forget the, "I only climb with one partner" vibe, all involved were safe climber/belayer and I really look forward to learning more about trad at Eldo next weekend.

Josh, these are some great folks, make the trip if you can.

Thanks again!

Kyle


Partner phaedrus


Mar 14, 2004, 10:33 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I'm up for joining up with this group whenever I can, too. I'm just getting into trad leading, so I'm doing .4's-.6's at this point; for sport, I can lead .8's and .9's. I boulder, too, but I have no idea what I rate as a boulderer. I'm booked up next weekend, but I'm interested in whatever comes along after that.

It seems that you and I are at the same level in regards to climbing. I'm capable of leading 4-5 single pitch trad and 6-7 multi-pitch sport.

If you are decent at setting up multi-pitch anchors, I need some assistance in that area. I place bomber protection and just need some practice at linking up the pieces. I am sure I can do the cordelette thing but you know - it isn't always that easy. It's those situations that will take me a little time to grasp and a little more experience before I'm super comfy doing it. It's just like anything else, I just need a little more practice and then I'll be fine. :)

If you are so inclined, I'm up for climbing with you - even if it has to be single pitch. I enjoy the west side of the Whale's tail for learning to place pro but I'm ready to graduate to the Wind Tower 4's(Breezy and Bomb) to work on my anchor placements. I guess we could climb those routes that are close to the rap rings - practice placing an anchor, if we like it, continue - if not - then rap. That solves a lot of problems about the unknowns. :)

I've only ever done one multipitch- the Staircase at Elevenmile Canyon (a GREAT .6 two-pitch climb, btw); I didn't lead it, so I know what a multi-pitch anchor looks like, but I've never set one, so....

I led West Dihedral in Eldo last summer and loved it. I'm definitely up for climbing with you. Sounds good!!! :D


nthusiastj


Mar 14, 2004, 10:36 AM
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It was good climbing and meeting with everyone. I was too bad that some had to leave so early.
I look forward to Eldo next weekend though. I have a feeling we will have to split up a little more unless we just take over the whole wind tower.

Jeremy


timstich


Mar 14, 2004, 12:56 PM
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Sure, we'll end up splitting up more, but we can keep tabs on who's doing what climbs. Then we can hike up and meet others. After climbing plans can be put on car windows. There's a funky bar/restaurant on Baseline that is cool. I need to look up the name.


timstich


Mar 14, 2004, 1:05 PM
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In reply to:
You guys seem to be getting a bit of a group thing going. I was wondering if something was planned over Easter whether you would tolerate an Aussie blow-in. I'm in Denver for a conference, then doing a bit of ice climbing but hope to get in a bit of rock-
I've only got 3 days (10, 11 and 12 April).
Lead to 5. 11 c/d sports, and about 5.10 c/d trad if I've got the Grade conversion thing right.
Email me at vwills@hotmail.com if more details needed.

I'll drop you an e-mail for sure. I'd love to climb in Austrailia if and when we get out there. You must know Phil Box, too. That guy is famous! Curious though. Where are you going ice climbing in April? Up high I'm guessing.


timstich


Mar 14, 2004, 1:09 PM
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...Tim & Marketa - let's keep yakking it up about some of the beautiful west-side Indian Peaks wilderness hikes. There are some beauties, full-day, and you're welcome to crash at my place to help with the approach drive. Hope you don't have allergies to cats!...

No. In fact we will probably get an orange kitty at some point. I looked at topos and mountain boots last night. Throw some areas and peaks at me so I can look them up.


holmeslovesguinness


Mar 14, 2004, 1:10 PM
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Hoping I can make it out next Sunday to meet everyone. Just FYI - if it ends up being crowded down near Wind Tower check out the Rincon Wall. It's a bit of a hike, but definitely worth it. It's got a couple of very nice lines in the 5.8 to 5.10 range (along with a bunch of much harder stuff). Yesterday we did Emerald City (5.9) and the second pitch of Over The Hill (also 5.9) which makes for a stellar link up. Over and Out is also very nice (pretty easy 5.8 that goes for 2 or 3 pitches).


dynomonster


Mar 14, 2004, 5:36 PM
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In reply to:
Next week's planned outing: Eldorado Canyon sandstone

Meet next Sunday at 9:00 AM in the Mesa Trailhead parking lot to the right and downhill from Dowdy Draw parking. This is right off of Eldorado Springs Rd, which is right before you drive into Bouder on 93. From the meeting place, we'll pile in as few cars as possible to get into the state park cheap

Hi,

I'll be in the area next weekend and I'd really like to get in on this. It'll be my spring break, visiting from Portland, OR (I climb at Smith Rock a lot) I've got some trad experience, but unfortunately.... not enough trad gear. I've lead 8s and 9s trad, but I haven't climbed since last fall, so I'm looking to ease back into it. Sport, I lead most 10s.

so, I'll be driving some compact rental car, and depending on the weather, I'll be the guy wearing the green highlighter beenie.

- 9:00 am Mesa Trailhead parking lot

Anybody want to partner up to do a long multi-pitch? like a 5.7, 5.8, or easy 5.9?

Mike


timstich


Mar 14, 2004, 6:43 PM
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Spring break Mike,

I'm sure someone will be happy to partner up with you to do some multi-pitch routes. In fact, I'll bet more than one of the people showing up will opt to go do that. The rest of us will probably do single pitch routes and stay more or less in the same area. About half of what I have climbed in Eldo has been multi-pitch routes, mostly when I was just with one other person.


timstich


Mar 14, 2004, 6:46 PM
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Weather next Sunday so far looking sunny and warm.

WAHOO!

Sounds like snow tonight in the high country for you.

In reply to:

OMFG, we have a thread that may get the Longest Thread Award and that's actually about /gulp/ CLIMBING!

Well sure. That's watt we doo.


elcommunisto


Mar 14, 2004, 8:18 PM
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Kyle - Thanks for the tip. I'll do what I can to make sure I can go for a while. Probably won't be able to stay past 2 or 3 pm though, since I'll be dead tired by then. I'll essentially be going down there straight from work.

I'll be hitting the gym at least 4 days this week for some much needed lead practice.

As for the weather, remember... this is COLORADO. Only here can it be 75 degrees at Noon, and snowing at 3 pm. We'll probably have to wait until Friday or Saturday to find out what the weather is really going to be like. :mrgreen:

I look forward to climbing with all you guys on Sunday!

-Josh


gadsdenflag


Mar 14, 2004, 9:15 PM
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I'd like to join everyone Sunday. Is anyone welcome? I'd like to follow someone on something 5.8ish.


timstich


Mar 14, 2004, 9:23 PM
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I'd like to join everyone Sunday. Is anyone welcome? I'd like to follow someone on something 5.8ish.

Of course everyone is welcome. That's what we want to do here. If anyone wants to go do things outside of the group thing, keep it in private messages.


gadsdenflag


Mar 14, 2004, 10:41 PM
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Great!

I'll see you all there.

=)


zozo


Mar 15, 2004, 4:10 AM
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OMFG, we have a thread that may get the Longest Thread Award and that's actually about /gulp/ CLIMBING!

Well sure. That's watt we doo.

Yeah, but we still got a long way to go before we catch those MASS CLIMBERS thread people!!

8)

For sunday I would like to hook up on a couple of shorter multipitch climbs with someone who might like to take the time to show me what they are doing as they lead, explain placement, rope management and anchors and stuff like that. (timstich, bustinmins?)

Gadsenflag(SP?) Im in the Springs to, pm me and we can hook up and ride up. WARNING - My car is full of dog hair, if your allergic or squeemish we might want to take your ride :)

Im going to be be stooopid busy this week so if anyone pm's me and I dont answer dont sweat it, I will be in touch.

By the way everybody I wasnt kidding about the Lobster, maybe when it gets alittle warmer we could have a lobster cookout after a day of climbing!

Later


crazyfingers


Mar 15, 2004, 7:56 AM
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Just got the go a head for a full day on Sunday, Sweet! Like Martha, I would really like to learn more about trad and am willing to offer my services as a belay slave/gear cleaner in return for some good trad beta.

I don't have any trad gear (yet...), but I am willing to bring a rope, some draws and some webbing. May also hit REI and pick up some of the Trad basics (i.e. cleaning tool, some slings and a daisy chain), any recommendations on my first pieces of gear?

Thanks and see you all Sunday!

Kyle


mother_sheep


Mar 15, 2004, 8:05 AM
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I have already PM'd a couple of you but I'll just go ahead and put up a post. I'm looking for gym partners this week on Tues or Thurs at lunch (11:00) and Wed evening. I climb at Paradise. If you are a first timer there, I can get you in for $5.00. If you have been there before, I can get you in for $7.00. Holly, anyone? Can you make it?


shorty


Mar 15, 2004, 9:31 AM
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I don't have any trad gear (yet...), ...any recommendations on my first pieces of gear?
As my climbing mentors said to me many moons ago, "A man can never have too many nuts." :shock:

I doubt very many climbers will argue against starting your trad rack with stoppers. Unfortunately, the choice of which model can be quite confusing if you haven't fiddled with them -- i.e. cleaning routes and practicing placements from the ground. Some brands of stoppers are quite similar, but others seem radically different, especially those with more complex shapes. Either Rock & Ice or Climbing magazine used to have their stopper comparison on line, but I couldn't find them this morning. One of the mags does have a list of the current manufacturers in their latest "Gear Guide" issue, however it is a little short on opinions.

Now for the editorial: I recommend you start with something in the middle of the pack. Examples are Wild Country, Black Diamond, ABC. One major difference among these brands is how the stoppers are shaped when they are placed "sideways" (i.e. the curved faces are not touching the rock). Wild Country's are parallel, most other brands are not. The parallel shape works better for parallel cracks and the others work better for flared cracks. I personally like Wild Country's design, but many of my partners like Black Diamond's. Either one works well with practice.

On the minimal shape side, Forest has nuts which are pretty straight sided, with almost no curves. I haven't used these, but people say they are pretty easy to clean.

The more complex curved shapes (DMM Walnuts & Metolius Curved Nuts, among others) grip the rock like demons if placed correctly. But they also can be a b*tch for your second to remove if you set them too hard. Most of the stoppers I've donated to the rock come from this group. A true gear whore (count me in) will have multiple sets of stoppers, and your second (or third) set will often be one from this category.

Bottom line: you probably can't go wrong with any brand of stoppers. Experience will teach you how to maximize the stoppers' design. Stoppers are also relatively cheap compared to cams. Once you start thinking about dropping $40-$80 per cam, you really need to have experience with other climbers' racks and their various cams. The analogy I like is, would you buy a fleet of cars without first learning to drive? Find a climbing mentor (or two or three), work off their racks, then go spend your hard-earned cash.


ajoys


Mar 15, 2004, 9:32 AM
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Eldo on sunday sounds good.

Kyle-

Get yourself a nut tool at the very least so you can clean gear on second. I have mine attached to a biner with a keeper cord. A daisy chain would help also but some people just use slings. I personally like daisy chains because it is easy to adjust the length to fit the belay stance. If you want some slings just buy some 1inch webbing and tie them yourself. I always use a piece of webbing 1.5' longer so for a 2' runner I use a piece of webbing 3.5' long before I tie it together with a waterknot. Use the climb spec webbing, knot the military spec. You can also just buy some sewn runners. I usually have a mix. Tied nylon runners are good to have incase you need to use the webbing for a rappel set up etc...

I am also going to be climbing at Rockn and Jamn North on tuesday and thursday nights (probably get there around 7-7:30) so if anybody wants to do some gym climbing let me know.


crazyfingers


Mar 15, 2004, 11:32 AM
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Ajoys, shorty

Thanks for the info on starting a trad rack, my plan is to pick up a nut tool, some slings and a daisy chain for Eldo this weekend. Plan to follow with some nuts, hexes and eventually some cams.

Hope to see you guys Sunday,

Kyle

BTW: I am a R&J member but live a bunch closer to R&J south. If anybody is up for Tuesday night about 6:30 pm let me know. Thanks again!


bustinmins


Mar 15, 2004, 1:32 PM
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Re: Front Range, CO, looking for partners [In reply to]
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In reply to:
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In reply to:

OMFG, we have a thread that may get the Longest Thread Award and that's actually about /gulp/ CLIMBING!

Well sure. That's watt we doo.

Yeah, but we still got a long way to go before we catch those MASS CLIMBERS thread people!!

8)

For sunday I would like to hook up on a couple of shorter multipitch climbs with someone who might like to take the time to show me what they are doing as they lead, explain placement, rope management and anchors and stuff like that. (timstich, bustinmins?)

Gadsenflag(SP?) Im in the Springs to, pm me and we can hook up and ride up. WARNING - My car is full of dog hair, if your allergic or squeemish we might want to take your ride :)

Im going to be be stooopid busy this week so if anyone pm's me and I dont answer dont sweat it, I will be in touch.

By the way everybody I wasnt kidding about the Lobster, maybe when it gets alittle warmer we could have a lobster cookout after a day of climbing!

Later

That is because there is not any superb climbing in Mass, especially this time of year - therefore they stay on-line a whole lot more. :)

We're going to have to be in ELDO way earlier than what has been published if we're going to get on anything. The wind tower was full of people last weekend - just about every west facing route had a crewe going up it.

The rock in Eldo was still quite COOL at noon on Sunday. May I just add a suggestion for a crag(hoping my trad buddies don't see this) - The Catslab, Clear Creek Canyon? That wall has many routes on it from 5.4-5.12 - some routes are 110' tall thus requiring good rope work or two ropes to do the route. A short approach and what I think would be a warmer wall. It bakes in the summer - hence the reason I think it would be a good place to now - just my .02. Believe me - I'm ready for Eldo though - regardless of the groups decision.

We'll have to storm the Wind Tower(no pun intended) if we want to jump on some of the easy/moderate routes on the west face. If anyone else wants to try single pitch trad at Eldo - The West Face of the Whale's tail has some fun easy routes - The West Crack and The West Dihedral and Clementine. 2/4/5 respectively. Of course, those are Eldo ratings - which are known to be soft. :)

I'm up for either crag - just thinking that eldo stone might be a bit cold for some people.


bustinmins


Mar 15, 2004, 1:37 PM
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I have already PM'd a couple of you but I'll just go ahead and put up a post. I'm looking for gym partners this week on Tues or Thurs at lunch (11:00) and Wed evening. I climb at Paradise. If you are a first timer there, I can get you in for $5.00. If you have been there before, I can get you in for $7.00. Holly, anyone? Can you make it?

I may be able to make Thursday. I arrive back in Denver around 10ish - I'd be a better "alternate" should you not be able to find anyone this week. I will probably be on time -but as soon as I promise something like that a mechanical problem will develop and I'll be stuck in Cali the whole day - so put me down as tenative.


skycat


Mar 15, 2004, 2:13 PM
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I just wanted to say I had a great time on Saturday, sorry I had to leave early, but I'm really glad I squeezed in the time to come out in the morning. I can't wait to climb with all of you again sometime soon.

Next sunday is up in the air for me right now, since I usually snowboard on sundays, so I'm going to wait and see if the resorts get hit with anymore snow before I decide one way or the other.

If someone wants to get together on Saturday, I'm definately free and can even stay out and play all day. :)

Kelli


shorty


Mar 15, 2004, 2:13 PM
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Hey, shorty, are you still racing or can you join us at Gumbie Wall, oh Fearless Leader?
The racing season continues, no matter how slowly I continue to ski. My upcoming schedule is regionals at A-Basin March 20 and nationals at Park City, Utah March 25-27. I'm expecting boot marks on my backside (coordinates well with the Spyder speedsuit) at both events. There's a reason I haven't quit my day job to ski professionally.

March 21 is a possibility for climbing, but I can't commit today. Yesterday I was at Clear Creek's Highwire Crag. The rock was slightly cool if it hadn't received sunshine and fairly nice if it had. The wildcard was the wind -- i.e. calm = good climbing, wind = waaahh. I believe the Denver forecast is for warm temps all week, so unless a storm front comes in by the weekend, conditions should be good for Saturday or Sunday.

As for the "Fearless Leader" moniker -- get real. :roll: I am chust vimpy little gurlie klimber, who gets pumped up leading over-bolted 5.2. Yah, das is me.


bustinmins


Mar 15, 2004, 2:25 PM
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Just got the go a head for a full day on Sunday, Sweet! Like Martha, I would really like to learn more about trad and am willing to offer my services as a belay slave/gear cleaner in return for some good trad beta.

I don't have any trad gear (yet...), but I am willing to bring a rope, some draws and some webbing. May also hit REI and pick up some of the Trad basics (i.e. cleaning tool, some slings and a daisy chain), any recommendations on my first pieces of gear?

Thanks and see you all Sunday!

Kyle

Well Kyle - my recommendations for this weekend would include a nut removal tool, two small BD locking biners(Positron or Quick Silver?), two denim/nylon 24" runners and two spectra 48" runners. When you purchase runners - be sure to pick a color that you like and buy the same lengths in the same color. This will help you later identify by color the length of sling you have in your hands. The nice thing about 48" runners is that they can be used as 24" runners as well - just double them up.

If you are still game for more gear(aren't we all?) - I'd get a set of BD Stoppers 4-13 and some loose/extra BD Hotwire or BD Neutrino style biners. These biners are stong, light and can be used in trad as well as ice(should you go that way someday). You won't need this gear this weekend as a second but it would be nice to learn how to use it should you get off route and then you'd have the ability to pop in a stopper for a little protection.

I'll let you know what I have on my rack if you want a list - just let me know.

If you want me to show you how to place the different types of pro, I'd be happy to show you. However, it seems that you and Jeremy are climbing at similar grades. You two might want to hook up for a climb this weekend in Eldo. I'd gladly show you anything but I want you to feel challenged on the route too. :) Up to you.


bustinmins


Mar 15, 2004, 2:34 PM
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Just got the go a head for a full day on Sunday, Sweet! Like Martha, I would really like to learn more about trad and am willing to offer my services as a belay slave/gear cleaner in return for some good trad beta.

I don't have any trad gear (yet...), but I am willing to bring a rope, some draws and some webbing. May also hit REI and pick up some of the Trad basics (i.e. cleaning tool, some slings and a daisy chain), any recommendations on my first pieces of gear?

Thanks and see you all Sunday!

Kyle

Well Kyle - my recommendations for this weekend would include a nut removal tool, two small BD locking biners(Positron or Quick Silver?), two denim/nylon 24" runners and two spectra 48" runners. When you purchase runners - be sure to pick a color that you like and buy the same lengths in the same color. This will help you later identify by color the length of sling you have in your hands. The nice thing about 48" runners is that they can be used as 24" runners as well - just double them up.

If you are still game for more gear(aren't we all?) - I'd get a set of BD Stoppers 4-13 and some loose/extra BD Hotwire or BD Neutrino style biners. These biners are stong, light and can be used in trad as well as ice(should you go that way someday). You won't need this gear this weekend as a second but it would be nice to learn how to use it should you get off route and then you'd have the ability to pop in a stopper for a little protection.

I'll let you know what I have on my rack if you want a list - just let me know.

If you want me to show you how to place the different types of pro, I'd be happy to show you. However, it seems that you and Jeremy are climbing at similar grades. You two might want to hook up for a climb this weekend in Eldo. I'd gladly show you anything but I want you to feel challenged on the route too. :) Up to you.

I forgot to tell you "Why" denim/nylon runners. You can use those as friction knots where you cannot(or rather should not) use spectra runners in that manner. It is all a function of melting temperature. The spectra runners are bomber strong but they have a low melting temperature. What does that mean? If you are using a spectra runner in a prusik or auto-lock knot this has the potential to MELT the runner and literally cut it in half, thus leaving you in a real pickle of a situation. This isn't a good thing. :) The denim/nylon runners have a much higher melting temperature and CAN be used as friction knots. When might you use them? You might use a friction knot to self-belay yourself as you climb a rope that is stuck in between you and your belay partner above. You might want to use it as an auto-locking knot as a safety backup on rappel. There are lots of uses but the trick to trad is to find gear that has multiple uses just for that reason.


bustinmins


Mar 15, 2004, 2:41 PM
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Trad Newbies:

I maybe preaching to the choir but another cheap and simple to rig "device" that would be good for you all to have is the "Texas Prusik" as described in Freedom of the Hills. I was following a buddy of mine up the Bastille last summer when I hit a 10" section that I simply couldn't unlock. My partner knew how to Z-pulley me up and did so. However, if I had known how to use this simple prusik system and had the gear with me - he wouldn't have had to "rescue" me from that 10" section. I would have been able to do it myself. This is also important when doing overhangs as well. You can prusik up the rope to get to your roof and get back to work.

Enough from me - I'm off on my trip. I'm going to take my rack to LAX and sneak off to Joshua Tree on my 25 hour layover. I hope I can get it past TSA without having to check it.


bustinmins


Mar 15, 2004, 2:49 PM
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I just wanted to say I had a great time on Saturday, sorry I had to leave early, but I'm really glad I squeezed in the time to come out in the morning. I can't wait to climb with all of you again sometime soon.

Next sunday is up in the air for me right now, since I usually snowboard on sundays, so I'm going to wait and see if the resorts get hit with anymore snow before I decide one way or the other.

If someone wants to get together on Saturday, I'm definately free and can even stay out and play all day. :)

Kelli

I might take you up on that Kelli. If you want to play with some basic trad on a fun single pitch route in Eldo - we can certainly do that on Saturday or if you'd rather challenge yourself a little more, we could always go to the Catslab where there are routes from 5.4-5.12. I'm not going to crank so hard that I wear myself out for Sunday's Eldo action but I'm definately game for a little bit of fun either way.

I have tenative plans this weekend - however I think they will most likely fall through. Feel free to give me a call at the number in your PM inbox.


bustinmins


Mar 15, 2004, 2:58 PM
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I'm up for Clear Creek on Sunday - haven't been there yet and I like the sound of the easier routes - heck, I might even lead one!

Let's see whaddup in the next couple of days. Dumped snow up here last night, so hopefully that's not a harbinger of things to come.

Hey, shorty, are you still racing or can you join us at Gumbie Wall, oh Fearless Leader?

SKibs

If we climb in Eldo I'll show you a couple of nice, fun and juggy climbs on the west side of the whale's tail. You'll like them. Super easy to protect and yet fun! :) Two of them are Kor routes too! :) I saw a guy placing an anchor on the first pitch of either "the bomb" or "Breezy" on Sunday - it looked like a very easy place to anchor in and therefore I feel comfortable doing my first lead multi-pitch anchors on the wind tower. It seems like those are some nice belay stances on the ledge. I have no problems placing the gear and these anchor stations sure looked to be pretty easy overall.

I'm looking for a "second" this weekend - with that knowledge - anyone game for multi-pitch? If not, then I'll just play on the west crack of the whale's tail and also do the west dihedral with all cowbells!


bustinmins


Mar 15, 2004, 3:43 PM
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I have already PM'd a couple of you but I'll just go ahead and put up a post. I'm looking for gym partners this week on Tues or Thurs at lunch (11:00) and Wed evening. I climb at Paradise. If you are a first timer there, I can get you in for $5.00. If you have been there before, I can get you in for $7.00. Holly, anyone? Can you make it?

Tracy, would you want to join us in Eldo on Sunday? I'm looking for a partner that wouldn't mind swapping leads on something simple such as a 4 - Breezy or Bomb?


mother_sheep


Mar 15, 2004, 4:43 PM
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I have already PM'd a couple of you but I'll just go ahead and put up a post. I'm looking for gym partners this week on Tues or Thurs at lunch (11:00) and Wed evening. I climb at Paradise. If you are a first timer there, I can get you in for $5.00. If you have been there before, I can get you in for $7.00. Holly, anyone? Can you make it?

Tracy, would you want to join us in Eldo on Sunday? I'm looking for a partner that wouldn't mind swapping leads on something simple such as a 4 - Breezy or Bomb?

Sorry Busti, I'll be in Red Rocks. Thanks for the invite. Those 2 routes are both fun. Get there early.


crazyfingers


Mar 15, 2004, 5:37 PM
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Hey Everybody,

I've been chating with some folks via PMs and maybe a group thing of CCC on Saturday and Eldo on Sunday will work? I am up for either and/or both.

As a side note, a couple of folks may have remember that I had to take off about 2 pm last week to help my wife clean our place for a group of relatives coming into town the following weekend... Well... the group consists of my mother in law, her sister, my sister in law, and two of my wife's cousins, both female. They start showing up Thursday morning :wink: ... I love them all but have a feeling I'll be a bit out numbered and ready for a break in the action come early Saturday AM. Already got the green light to 4 pm on Saturday and all day Sunday.

If anybodies game for getting out to CCC early (7 - 8 am) Saturday and staking out some RC.com turff let me know. I've never climbed in CCC so finding the routes may take some effort, I PLAN TO PICK UP A CCC GUIDE BOOK THIS WEEK, BUT AS ALWAYS ALL BETA WELCOME! I have to get back into Denver by 4:30 pm Saturday to get ready for dinner out with the ladies... As a side note, anybody adverse to me bringing my well behaved huskies to CCC if we sport climb? Both have been cragging/bouldering a bunch in the past and do pretty well off leash, even better after getting tired. Wouldn't consider bringing them for any multi-pitch/trad stuff i.e. eldo on Sunday or if plans change for Saturday.

In short let me know what you think of the following:

- SATURDAY: CCC (Clear Creek Canyon), my plan is for an early start, let me know on dogs no/no dogs, probably going to bring a newbie buddy if he doesn't flake on me

- SUNDAY: Eldo for a Trad-a-thon with me as a belay slave/eager follower-student, NO Dogs, again willing to get there early

Open to any suggestions/change in plans, easily said, I got a hall pass for the weekend, and I hope to climb a bunch.

Is it Friday yet?

Kyle


timstich


Mar 15, 2004, 6:11 PM
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Eldo on sunday sounds good.

Kyle-

Get yourself a nut tool at the very least so you can clean gear on second. ...

Even better would be to get TWO nut tools so you can clean stuck, abandoned gear to build your trad rack. You use the tools to manipulate the triggers back and forth to work the cams out. I was not successful in cleaning that overcammed Trango last weekend, but it was only out of courtesy that I stopped. These things can take time. Heh.


zozo


Mar 15, 2004, 6:28 PM
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Holy Smokes, this thread has taken off. Im going to totally stay out of the desicion as to where we climb because any place is fine with me. I might have a hard time getting to eldo early enough for everyone elses tastes (1 1/2 hour drive up) but it sounds like a couple of other places are being kicked around. I would love to climb both sat and sun but my checkbook is looking kinda thin and M_Sheep twisted my arm soooo hard to climb on wed that two trips up on the weekend taint gonna happen. Blame it on her! 8)


nthusiastj


Mar 15, 2004, 6:32 PM
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Kyle and all,
I am up for CCC and Eldo. I am a bit of a psycho and will climb almost anytime. Even if my body says no.
BTW, I have a full rack and will lead 5.8 in eldo. I don't mind leading either. Kyle, it might be good for us to team up and climb sunday. We seem to be at about the same grade. The only gear that you need to climb with me is a nut tool and a couple of locking biners. I never use a daisy chain.


timstich


Mar 15, 2004, 6:43 PM
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Kyle and all,
I am up for CCC and Eldo. I am a bit of a psycho and will climb almost anytime. Even if my body says no.
BTW, I have a full rack and will lead 5.8 in eldo. I don't mind leading either. Kyle, it might be good for us to team up and climb sunday. We seem to be at about the same grade. The only gear that you need to climb with me is a nut tool and a couple of locking biners. I never use a daisy chain.

Hey Jeremy,

I'm going to be calling you up when it's too cold, windy, and wet outside for everyone else. And of course you don't mind leading. In fact, is it not a drag to follow every pitch? Robbed!


breaksnclimbs


Mar 15, 2004, 6:44 PM
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See what you started ajoys!!
Now everyone in Colorado wants to climb with each
other. :D Gueass it took an out of towner to connect
the dots :!: :!:
Serioulsy, I'm in Eldo EVERY weekend if any one needs a partner
I usually have one but three's company and then if one bails, still
got a pair!! The going trend for me is to show up around 9am
and climb 'till dark. I lead most 9s with ease these days though
there are some "Eldo 9s" that still freak me out (haven't led the
first pitch of tagger yet). But I onsighted a couple of 10s this
weekend Break on Through and Darkness 'till Dawn and still didn't pull
off a clean lead of Grandmothers Challenge!! Next time Gadget -
Next time!!
So let me know if you want to meet up in the lot I can show you around.
I've climbed a bunch of the "classic" moderates , and know the area VERY
well.
cool
peace
rs


timstich


Mar 15, 2004, 7:05 PM
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See what you started ajoys!!
Now everyone in Colorado wants to climb with each
other. :D Gueass it took an out of towner to connect
the dots :!: :!:

Yep. The locals have been here long enough to have their own partner stash, the greedy bastards.

In reply to:

Serioulsy, I'm in Eldo EVERY weekend if any one needs a partner
I usually have one but three's company and then if one bails, still
got a pair!! The going trend for me is to show up around 9am
and climb 'till dark. I lead most 9s with ease these days though
there are some "Eldo 9s" that still freak me out (haven't led the
first pitch of tagger yet).

My friend Alex led that one a while back with me belaying. Quite a tricky little thin line at the start that spit out a nut. You are wise to respect that one.


mother_sheep


Mar 15, 2004, 7:08 PM
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Holy Smokes, this thread has taken off. Im going to totally stay out of the desicion as to where we climb because any place is fine with me. I might have a hard time getting to eldo early enough for everyone elses tastes (1 1/2 hour drive up) but it sounds like a couple of other places are being kicked around. I would love to climb both sat and sun but my checkbook is looking kinda thin and M_Sheep twisted my arm soooo hard to climb on wed that two trips up on the weekend taint gonna happen. Blame it on her! 8)

Thank you ZOZO! I owe you a brew! We'll go to Falling Rock Tavern on Wed night after the gym.


hstewart


Mar 15, 2004, 7:59 PM
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I have already PM'd a couple of you but I'll just go ahead and put up a post. I'm looking for gym partners this week on Tues or Thurs at lunch (11:00) and Wed evening. I climb at Paradise. If you are a first timer there, I can get you in for $5.00. If you have been there before, I can get you in for $7.00. Holly, anyone? Can you make it?

Oooooh Tracey...wish i could get away in the middle of the day to climb!Unfortunetly I'm a slave to the corporate world. Do you ever get over to BRC in the evenings?

Anyone need a second for some multi-pitch action at Eldo on Sunday?


mother_sheep


Mar 15, 2004, 8:04 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I have already PM'd a couple of you but I'll just go ahead and put up a post. I'm looking for gym partners this week on Tues or Thurs at lunch (11:00) and Wed evening. I climb at Paradise. If you are a first timer there, I can get you in for $5.00. If you have been there before, I can get you in for $7.00. Holly, anyone? Can you make it?

Oooooh Tracey...wish i could get away in the middle of the day to climb!Unfortunetly I'm a slave to the corporate world. Do you ever get over to BRC in the evenings?

Anyone need a second for some multi-pitch action at Eldo on Sunday?

Sure thing Holly. After the first of April I'll hit BRC with you or maybe we can hit the canyon after work.


timstich


Mar 15, 2004, 8:21 PM
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Anyone need a second for some multi-pitch action at Eldo on Sunday?

I counted at least three other people who were into doing some multies. You should be able to take your pick.

And the after climbing eating/drinking place shall be...

The Dark Horse, 2922 Baseline Rd, Boulder, 442-8162

All in favor say AYE! All opposed...

shall die in searing pain. :twisted:


hstewart


Mar 15, 2004, 8:27 PM
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AYE!


timstich


Mar 15, 2004, 8:39 PM
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AYE!

Amen.


crazyfingers


Mar 15, 2004, 9:11 PM
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Aye, if your willing to take a newbie :shock: . Jeremy, sounds like a plan for Eldo. Anybody in for CCC on saturday?

KT


ebelay


Mar 15, 2004, 11:49 PM
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AYE!

Just moved to town on Friday. I'm staying with some friends in Denver while searching for a pad in Boulder. Between the work of house-hunting, I've managed to squeeze in a bit of bouldering on Flagstaff. Tip-shredding goodness!

I can climb one full day this weekend and maybe a half day of bouldering the other. Wouldn't mind dusting off the rack for some easy trad at Eldo if that's what's happening on Saturday. Are there any boulderers in this group who would be interested in heading out to some of the local areas?

PM me about trad, sport or playing on the small stones.

Eric


zozo


Mar 16, 2004, 4:48 AM
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First of all it has come to my attention that the caption on the photo of me on sunday is causing some confusion. I in fact did not climb a .12b, it was more like an .8. It was an honest accounting error....

Read my lips! No new taxes!
I did Not have sexual relations with that woman, Ms. Lewinsky.
If Saddam Hussein doesnt disarm, we will disarm him!

If I can get my friends to watch my dog I might be up for some dinner after but that might be sketchy - but since dying a death of searing pain sounds kinda sucky, count me in for half an AYE!

Hey Ebelay - I need to be moving into Boulder / Arvada / Longmont area in the next 4 to 6 weeks. Are you looking for a roommate by any chance? I want to get a house with a yard cause I have a dog.


zozo


Mar 16, 2004, 5:06 AM
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Hey Everybody,
Well... the group consists of my mother in law, her sister, my sister in law, and two of my wife's cousins, both female. They start showing up Thursday morning :wink: ... I love them all but have a feeling I'll be a bit out numbered and ready for a break in the action come early Saturday AM.

I have to get back into Denver by 4:30 pm Saturday to get ready for dinner out with the ladies...

Allright Kyle... I will take some of them off your hands... but you owe me one!!

PS. Not the mother in law :D


skycat


Mar 16, 2004, 8:48 AM
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Aye, if your willing to take a newbie :shock: . Jeremy, sounds like a plan for Eldo. Anybody in for CCC on saturday?

KT

Me me me.....I'm up for CCC, I can be there around 9am.

Oh and I saw someone wanted to bring thier dogs......I love dogs, mine will be staying home though since she trys to climb the route behind me. :roll:


crazyfingers


Mar 16, 2004, 9:27 AM
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Cool skycat, I'll meet you there. Any ideas on where to park?

Kyle


skycat


Mar 16, 2004, 10:00 AM
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Cool skycat, I'll meet you there. Any ideas on where to park?

Kyle

There is plenty of parking along Hwy 6 and I have the guide book for the area at home. I've only been to Cat Slab and High Wire Crag, and both are fun, Cat slab will be warmer than HWC though. Still either of those are fine will me or one of the other ones, I'm just not familiar with them.

Kelli


mother_sheep


Mar 16, 2004, 10:25 AM
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Cool skycat, I'll meet you there. Any ideas on where to park?

Kyle

There is plenty of parking along Hwy 6 and I have the guide book for the area at home. I've only been to Cat Slab and High Wire Crag, and both are fun, Cat slab will be warmer than HWC though. Still either of those are fine will me or one of the other ones, I'm just not familiar with them.

Kelli

If you are climbing at Cat Slab, I recommend that being your first stop for the day. It gets lots of morning sun. Drive through tunnel # 5 and park on either side of the road. High Wire Crag gets sun later in the day. Park before you get to tunnel # 2 on either side of the road to get there. Highwire can get really crowded on the weekends. It's loaded w/moderates. I'm not sure if the anchors have been replaced on the 5.8 and 5.9 all the way at the end of the crag. Please be vigilant to not TR directly off of these anchors. They were terribly worn last time I was there. Use draws instead. If you decide not to climb at Highwire, across the street is Highlander Crag. This area tends to be less crowded, is in the sun but has harder lines. Have fun! Maybe I can join you guys next time.

Oh and 1 more word of advice. Sorry, I'm a Mom. If you do the 5.8 on Cat Slab (there's only 1), be careful when you lower or rap. The route falls just a little short of a 60m rope length. You can still make it down safe w/a 60m rope, just make sure you rap or lower as far left as possible to the top of the little alcove. I witnessed an accident here and it wasn't pretty. A female climber also died here a while back. Some of the routes are really close to a full rope length so be careful. Okay, I'm done. Sorry.


ajoys


Mar 16, 2004, 1:03 PM
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Isn't this great!!!

Climbed at Eldo Sunday for the first time and the way climbs are rated is a little different then I am used to. I am used to the ratings signifying the hardest moves/crux section and it seems to me in Eldo the ratings are geared towards the majority of the climb even if the crux is harder etc.. I don't know, just my opinion based on one day of climbing so what do I know. :)

I am definitely going to have to start at the bottom and work my way up.

If any one wants to lead up some single pitches of 7's,8's and maybe an easier 9 so I could follow up let me know. I want to get some mileage under my belt before I venture out on the sharp end of the rope there. Either way, I will be there Sunday. Just being there is good for the soul.

I have climbed at cats slab in CCC and it is a great place to go for a goup. All the climbs are right there in one spot and it is close to the road. There is one 5.4, a 5.7 and a 5.8 that are great for new leaders. I lead the 5.8 on the far left as my first climb in colorado. There is also one 5.9 (with a great crux section) and many 10's. The climbing is some what steep slab climbing, all bolt protected and most routes are 100-120' long, so some routes require two ropes to rap down unless you have a really long rope. Lots of fun. If you go to climbingboulder.com they have all the beta you need on the area.


From what I have read on the internet and heard from other climbers there at cat's slab, most say the climbs are easier then rated but I just think slab climbing is easier for most people then going up a steep crack. I know I climb better on slabs and faces etc...


In reply to:
See what you started ajoys!!
Now everyone in Colorado wants to climb with each
other. :D Gueass it took an out of towner to connect
the dots :!: :!:
Serioulsy, I'm in Eldo EVERY weekend if any one needs a partner
I usually have one but three's company and then if one bails, still
got a pair!! The going trend for me is to show up around 9am
and climb 'till dark. I lead most 9s with ease these days though
there are some "Eldo 9s" that still freak me out (haven't led the
first pitch of tagger yet). But I onsighted a couple of 10s this
weekend Break on Through and Darkness 'till Dawn and still didn't pull
off a clean lead of Grandmothers Challenge!! Next time Gadget -
Next time!!
So let me know if you want to meet up in the lot I can show you around.
I've climbed a bunch of the "classic" moderates , and know the area VERY
well.
cool
peace
rs


hstewart


Mar 16, 2004, 1:50 PM
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Sure thing Holly. After the first of April I'll hit BRC with you or maybe we can hit the canyon after work.

sweet! we'll have to drag zozo along and regale in tales of our maine adventures. did you climb at acadia much??


mother_sheep


Mar 16, 2004, 1:54 PM
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In reply to:
Sure thing Holly. After the first of April I'll hit BRC with you or maybe we can hit the canyon after work.

sweet! we'll have to drag zozo along and regale in tales of our maine adventures. did you climb at acadia much??

Sounds good to me. No, I never climbed in Acadia. I started climbing 2 years ago after living out here for 1 year. I was a total city girl when I lived in Maine. I was always trying to hang on to my New York roots. Then I grew up. Thank God!


timstich


Mar 16, 2004, 2:28 PM
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Since so many of you are heading to Cat Slab Saturday morning, I'm going to have to join you. I must work squash into the day, but that can easily be done.


zozo


Mar 16, 2004, 2:34 PM
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Man, I gots to get out the Springs. Im in for eldo on sunday but Im not sure I cant make saturday's outing. Im weak, and guilt trips and arm twisting have been known to work in the past however. At some point of course you all realize you need to come down here fora day of Garden sandstone or then Shelf road the week after that!


crazyfingers


Mar 16, 2004, 3:45 PM
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Catslab at 9 am sounds good. Don't think I am going to bring the dogs, new potentially crowded crag probably wouldn't mix with my mischevious mutts. They've never peed on anybody's stuff, but packs full of melted energy bars beware...

Thanks to mother_sheep for the parking beta, to bad you can't make it, look forward to meeting you. To those that can (looks like Kelli and Tim for sure, Zoso consider your arm twisted :), Jeremy/James/Martha you guys coming?) . I plan to be parked on the side of the road after tunnel 5 a little before nine. Keep an eye out for the trusty black ford ranger 4X4.

Plan to bring all the climbing gear I've got (which isn't much... but I am working on it :oops: ) 60M rope, bunch of biners (locking and bent), 12 draws, and a bunch of webbing (tied mostly into 24" and 48" slings). May have to beg, borrow and ... well borrow some additional gear... sounds like CCC has a bunch of long routes.

Damn its only Tuesday...

KT


nthusiastj


Mar 16, 2004, 4:05 PM
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score one Jeremy for the Catslab Sat at 9!


shorty


Mar 16, 2004, 5:38 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Cat slab will be warmer than HWC though.
If you are climbing at Cat Slab, I recommend that being your first stop for the day. It gets lots of morning sun.... High Wire Crag gets sun later in the day.... Highwire can get really crowded on the weekends. It's loaded w/moderates. I'm not sure if the anchors have been replaced on the 5.8 and 5.9 all the way at the end of the crag.
OK, my turn for $.01 input. Memory tells me High Wire faces somewhat southeast and Catslab is more southwest. Last September, mtngeo and I were bathed in sun on High Wire by 7am. Note that upper River Wall probably blocks early sun this time of year, although I suspect High Wire will be fully lit shortly after 8am.

In July I've climbed at Catslab early in the day to avoid the heat. We were able to stay cool until 10am or so when the sun swung around and the Gus arete no longer shaded the main slab. Catslab bakes in the afternoon until the sun drops below the ridge on the opposite side of Clear Creek. I am uncertain what time this occurs now, but I'll guess a little before 5pm.

Last Sunday, the left side of High Wire (Ace in the Hole through Pony Up, plus Via Comatose Amigo) were fully in the shade by 2pm. Cracker Jack went shady by 3pm, but the 1st & 2nd pitches of People's Choice were still sunny at 4:30pm (the 3rd pitch dihedral was shady by 2pm).

Now for $.02. The worn cold shut anchors on High Wire's Poker Face and Pony Up (the 5.9 and 5.8 Tracy discusses above) were replaced last yearl with modern steel. But as Tracy says, use your draws to TR any route in this popular canyon.

Expect crowds at both High Wire and Catslab -- they're the easiest crags in the canyon. And the ratings are soft, sometimes because you can move only a foot or two to the side of the bolt line and bypass the crux. So who cares if the ratings are soft -- the routes are still fun.


shorty


Mar 16, 2004, 5:51 PM
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And zozo, a weekend at Shelf SOON is a must-do! It has to be warming up there nicely.
Shelf's Cactus Cliff is getting quite warm on sunny days. Two weeks ago it was warm enough by 11am for shorts, halter tops, and no shirt (woo hoo, depending upon one's preference). The rock was warm and comfortable. Note that the steep, shaded road section to Cactus was wet (with some snow) and somewhat slick.

Shelf's Dark Side was, well, dark. Still some snow in the gullys and on ledges.

Overall, climbing is quite good now. Just be prepared to chase sun or shade to keep the preferred temperature.


timstich


Mar 16, 2004, 6:02 PM
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Expect crowds at both High Wire and Catslab -- they're the easiest crags in the canyon. And the ratings are soft, sometimes because you can move only a foot or two to the side of the bolt line and bypass the crux. So who cares if the ratings are soft -- the routes are still fun.

So what would you rate pitch 3 of People's Choice? I've done it twice now and would like to compare notes.

-Tim


shorty


Mar 16, 2004, 6:25 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
And the ratings are soft, sometimes because you can move only a foot or two to the side of the bolt line and bypass the crux. So who cares if the ratings are soft -- the routes are still fun.

So what would you rate pitch 3 of People's Choice? I've done it twice now and would like to compare notes.
According the shorty-o-meter....If I can lead it, it can't be that hard.

To me, it feels like there's a 10b-ish move in the dihedral (10c per the guide) and a 10c-ish move over the bulge above the dihedral (10d per the guide). Maybe I was just having a good day, or my height works well with the bulge move. But I've been shut down by lower grades in other locations. However, I do feel the grades within CCC are relatively consistent among each other (given the wimpy routes I can hack my way up).

By the way, I'm not arguing for changing ratings in CCC. I just seem to be able to climb a little harder there.


timstich


Mar 16, 2004, 6:37 PM
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And the ratings are soft, sometimes because you can move only a foot or two to the side of the bolt line and bypass the crux. So who cares if the ratings are soft -- the routes are still fun.

So what would you rate pitch 3 of People's Choice? I've done it twice now and would like to compare notes.
According the shorty-o-meter....If I can lead it, it can't be that hard.

To me, it feels like there's a 10b-ish move in the dihedral (10c per the guide) and a 10c-ish move over the bulge above the dihedral (10d per the guide). Maybe I was just having a good day, or my height works well with the bulge move. But I've been shut down by lower grades in other locations. However, I do feel the grades within CCC are relatively consistent among each other (given the wimpy routes I can hack my way up).

By the way, I'm not arguing for changing ratings in CCC. I just seem to be able to climb a little harder there.

I'll buy that. I found the diehedral to be psychologically intimidating, but physically less so. If you can hold your head together, you can stem and rest all the way up. The tricky bulge does seem harder, but I probably didn't climb it right. Hah! Golden Cliffs has consistently shut me down lately for some reason. It's gone daddy gone. Love is gone...

And yes, we should climb at Shelf within a weekend or so.


bustinmins


Mar 16, 2004, 8:20 PM
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Catslab - 0900 - I'm a definate maybe. I had promised a couple of friends that I would take them on a hike....however they do arise later than most friends. I'm thinking they can wait until I'm done with baggin that 8 on the left flank of the Catslab! :)

I'll be there peeps - unless something really strange happens.

I'm REALLY bummed. I'm sitting here in Tucson. I'm supposed to be in L.A. right now. I had intended to go to Joshua Tree tomorrow morning and bag some routes. FOG moved in earlier than forecast and has ruined my plans. I was able to take my backpack, complete with rope and trad rack, through TSA's security line in Nashville. I hope Tucson is as friendly to my rack and transportation needs. I don't know if I would have made it passed if I hadn't been in uniform - who knows. :)

I'm still planning on Eldo on Sunday. See you there as well.

I'm still looking for a second to climb "Bomb" (4) on the Wind Tower - anyone game?

Peace and happiness,

JD


ajoys


Mar 16, 2004, 9:23 PM
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If you want, I will be more then happy to second it.

Have you thought about breezy? I haven't climbed it but from the ground it looks like a better climb.


zozo


Mar 17, 2004, 5:20 AM
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I might not have a camera on Sunday, can anyone else bring a digy?


zozo


Mar 17, 2004, 5:28 AM
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Score one Martha for work on Saturday!

UGH! :x

Sunday at Eldo is still an option.

Work?! Where the heck are your priorities?! Actually if i had a job I might have the gas money to climb both days. I take that back.

:x

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And zozo, a weekend at Shelf SOON is a must-do! It has to be warming up there nicely. Any takers for the month of April? (PS out of town April 13-19, but otherwise free)

If you get lost between the moon and New York City..... I know its crazy.... but it's true.


mother_sheep


Mar 17, 2004, 7:04 AM
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And zozo, a weekend at Shelf SOON is a must-do! It has to be warming up there nicely.
Shelf's Cactus Cliff is getting quite warm on sunny days. Two weeks ago it was warm enough by 11am for shorts, halter tops, and no shirt (woo hoo, depending upon one's preference). The rock was warm and comfortable. Note that the steep, shaded road section to Cactus was wet (with some snow) and somewhat slick.

Shelf's Dark Side was, well, dark. Still some snow in the gullys and on ledges.

Overall, climbing is quite good now. Just be prepared to chase sun or shade to keep the preferred temperature.

Roger what Shorty said. Even earlier than 2 weeks ago on Valentines Day weekend, I was running around Cactus in shorts and tank top. The air was cool but boy up against the rock it really bakes!

I'd be up for Shelf. By far my favorite sport climbing area thus far, in Colorado anyway.


crazyfingers


Mar 17, 2004, 9:56 AM
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I should be able to bring a 3.2 digital camera to Eldo on Sunday... that is if its not being used for snap shots of the flatlander relatives in Breck... definite maybe. :roll:


ajoys


Mar 17, 2004, 2:04 PM
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I'm still planning on Eldo on Sunday. See you there as well.

I'm still looking for a second to climb "Bomb" (4) on the Wind Tower - anyone game?

Peace and happiness,

JD

If you still need a partner to second the climb, let me know, I would be more then happy to do it. We can climb Breezy also.


nthusiastj


Mar 17, 2004, 8:14 PM
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How many trad leaders will we have Sunday? I know Bustinmins and I are up for some leads. Who else? I am just trying to get an idea for groups.

Jeremy