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Front Range climbing partners - ongoing thread
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timstich


Mar 14, 2004, 12:56 PM
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Sure, we'll end up splitting up more, but we can keep tabs on who's doing what climbs. Then we can hike up and meet others. After climbing plans can be put on car windows. There's a funky bar/restaurant on Baseline that is cool. I need to look up the name.


timstich


Mar 14, 2004, 1:05 PM
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You guys seem to be getting a bit of a group thing going. I was wondering if something was planned over Easter whether you would tolerate an Aussie blow-in. I'm in Denver for a conference, then doing a bit of ice climbing but hope to get in a bit of rock-
I've only got 3 days (10, 11 and 12 April).
Lead to 5. 11 c/d sports, and about 5.10 c/d trad if I've got the Grade conversion thing right.
Email me at vwills@hotmail.com if more details needed.

I'll drop you an e-mail for sure. I'd love to climb in Austrailia if and when we get out there. You must know Phil Box, too. That guy is famous! Curious though. Where are you going ice climbing in April? Up high I'm guessing.


timstich


Mar 14, 2004, 1:09 PM
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...Tim & Marketa - let's keep yakking it up about some of the beautiful west-side Indian Peaks wilderness hikes. There are some beauties, full-day, and you're welcome to crash at my place to help with the approach drive. Hope you don't have allergies to cats!...

No. In fact we will probably get an orange kitty at some point. I looked at topos and mountain boots last night. Throw some areas and peaks at me so I can look them up.


holmeslovesguinness


Mar 14, 2004, 1:10 PM
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Hoping I can make it out next Sunday to meet everyone. Just FYI - if it ends up being crowded down near Wind Tower check out the Rincon Wall. It's a bit of a hike, but definitely worth it. It's got a couple of very nice lines in the 5.8 to 5.10 range (along with a bunch of much harder stuff). Yesterday we did Emerald City (5.9) and the second pitch of Over The Hill (also 5.9) which makes for a stellar link up. Over and Out is also very nice (pretty easy 5.8 that goes for 2 or 3 pitches).


dynomonster


Mar 14, 2004, 5:36 PM
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Next week's planned outing: Eldorado Canyon sandstone

Meet next Sunday at 9:00 AM in the Mesa Trailhead parking lot to the right and downhill from Dowdy Draw parking. This is right off of Eldorado Springs Rd, which is right before you drive into Bouder on 93. From the meeting place, we'll pile in as few cars as possible to get into the state park cheap

Hi,

I'll be in the area next weekend and I'd really like to get in on this. It'll be my spring break, visiting from Portland, OR (I climb at Smith Rock a lot) I've got some trad experience, but unfortunately.... not enough trad gear. I've lead 8s and 9s trad, but I haven't climbed since last fall, so I'm looking to ease back into it. Sport, I lead most 10s.

so, I'll be driving some compact rental car, and depending on the weather, I'll be the guy wearing the green highlighter beenie.

- 9:00 am Mesa Trailhead parking lot

Anybody want to partner up to do a long multi-pitch? like a 5.7, 5.8, or easy 5.9?

Mike


timstich


Mar 14, 2004, 6:43 PM
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Spring break Mike,

I'm sure someone will be happy to partner up with you to do some multi-pitch routes. In fact, I'll bet more than one of the people showing up will opt to go do that. The rest of us will probably do single pitch routes and stay more or less in the same area. About half of what I have climbed in Eldo has been multi-pitch routes, mostly when I was just with one other person.


timstich


Mar 14, 2004, 6:46 PM
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Weather next Sunday so far looking sunny and warm.

WAHOO!

Sounds like snow tonight in the high country for you.

In reply to:

OMFG, we have a thread that may get the Longest Thread Award and that's actually about /gulp/ CLIMBING!

Well sure. That's watt we doo.


elcommunisto


Mar 14, 2004, 8:18 PM
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Kyle - Thanks for the tip. I'll do what I can to make sure I can go for a while. Probably won't be able to stay past 2 or 3 pm though, since I'll be dead tired by then. I'll essentially be going down there straight from work.

I'll be hitting the gym at least 4 days this week for some much needed lead practice.

As for the weather, remember... this is COLORADO. Only here can it be 75 degrees at Noon, and snowing at 3 pm. We'll probably have to wait until Friday or Saturday to find out what the weather is really going to be like. :mrgreen:

I look forward to climbing with all you guys on Sunday!

-Josh


gadsdenflag


Mar 14, 2004, 9:15 PM
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I'd like to join everyone Sunday. Is anyone welcome? I'd like to follow someone on something 5.8ish.


timstich


Mar 14, 2004, 9:23 PM
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I'd like to join everyone Sunday. Is anyone welcome? I'd like to follow someone on something 5.8ish.

Of course everyone is welcome. That's what we want to do here. If anyone wants to go do things outside of the group thing, keep it in private messages.


gadsdenflag


Mar 14, 2004, 10:41 PM
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Great!

I'll see you all there.

=)


zozo


Mar 15, 2004, 4:10 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:

OMFG, we have a thread that may get the Longest Thread Award and that's actually about /gulp/ CLIMBING!

Well sure. That's watt we doo.

Yeah, but we still got a long way to go before we catch those MASS CLIMBERS thread people!!

8)

For sunday I would like to hook up on a couple of shorter multipitch climbs with someone who might like to take the time to show me what they are doing as they lead, explain placement, rope management and anchors and stuff like that. (timstich, bustinmins?)

Gadsenflag(SP?) Im in the Springs to, pm me and we can hook up and ride up. WARNING - My car is full of dog hair, if your allergic or squeemish we might want to take your ride :)

Im going to be be stooopid busy this week so if anyone pm's me and I dont answer dont sweat it, I will be in touch.

By the way everybody I wasnt kidding about the Lobster, maybe when it gets alittle warmer we could have a lobster cookout after a day of climbing!

Later


crazyfingers


Mar 15, 2004, 7:56 AM
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Just got the go a head for a full day on Sunday, Sweet! Like Martha, I would really like to learn more about trad and am willing to offer my services as a belay slave/gear cleaner in return for some good trad beta.

I don't have any trad gear (yet...), but I am willing to bring a rope, some draws and some webbing. May also hit REI and pick up some of the Trad basics (i.e. cleaning tool, some slings and a daisy chain), any recommendations on my first pieces of gear?

Thanks and see you all Sunday!

Kyle


mother_sheep


Mar 15, 2004, 8:05 AM
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I have already PM'd a couple of you but I'll just go ahead and put up a post. I'm looking for gym partners this week on Tues or Thurs at lunch (11:00) and Wed evening. I climb at Paradise. If you are a first timer there, I can get you in for $5.00. If you have been there before, I can get you in for $7.00. Holly, anyone? Can you make it?


shorty


Mar 15, 2004, 9:31 AM
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I don't have any trad gear (yet...), ...any recommendations on my first pieces of gear?
As my climbing mentors said to me many moons ago, "A man can never have too many nuts." :shock:

I doubt very many climbers will argue against starting your trad rack with stoppers. Unfortunately, the choice of which model can be quite confusing if you haven't fiddled with them -- i.e. cleaning routes and practicing placements from the ground. Some brands of stoppers are quite similar, but others seem radically different, especially those with more complex shapes. Either Rock & Ice or Climbing magazine used to have their stopper comparison on line, but I couldn't find them this morning. One of the mags does have a list of the current manufacturers in their latest "Gear Guide" issue, however it is a little short on opinions.

Now for the editorial: I recommend you start with something in the middle of the pack. Examples are Wild Country, Black Diamond, ABC. One major difference among these brands is how the stoppers are shaped when they are placed "sideways" (i.e. the curved faces are not touching the rock). Wild Country's are parallel, most other brands are not. The parallel shape works better for parallel cracks and the others work better for flared cracks. I personally like Wild Country's design, but many of my partners like Black Diamond's. Either one works well with practice.

On the minimal shape side, Forest has nuts which are pretty straight sided, with almost no curves. I haven't used these, but people say they are pretty easy to clean.

The more complex curved shapes (DMM Walnuts & Metolius Curved Nuts, among others) grip the rock like demons if placed correctly. But they also can be a b*tch for your second to remove if you set them too hard. Most of the stoppers I've donated to the rock come from this group. A true gear whore (count me in) will have multiple sets of stoppers, and your second (or third) set will often be one from this category.

Bottom line: you probably can't go wrong with any brand of stoppers. Experience will teach you how to maximize the stoppers' design. Stoppers are also relatively cheap compared to cams. Once you start thinking about dropping $40-$80 per cam, you really need to have experience with other climbers' racks and their various cams. The analogy I like is, would you buy a fleet of cars without first learning to drive? Find a climbing mentor (or two or three), work off their racks, then go spend your hard-earned cash.


ajoys


Mar 15, 2004, 9:32 AM
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Eldo on sunday sounds good.

Kyle-

Get yourself a nut tool at the very least so you can clean gear on second. I have mine attached to a biner with a keeper cord. A daisy chain would help also but some people just use slings. I personally like daisy chains because it is easy to adjust the length to fit the belay stance. If you want some slings just buy some 1inch webbing and tie them yourself. I always use a piece of webbing 1.5' longer so for a 2' runner I use a piece of webbing 3.5' long before I tie it together with a waterknot. Use the climb spec webbing, knot the military spec. You can also just buy some sewn runners. I usually have a mix. Tied nylon runners are good to have incase you need to use the webbing for a rappel set up etc...

I am also going to be climbing at Rockn and Jamn North on tuesday and thursday nights (probably get there around 7-7:30) so if anybody wants to do some gym climbing let me know.


crazyfingers


Mar 15, 2004, 11:32 AM
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Ajoys, shorty

Thanks for the info on starting a trad rack, my plan is to pick up a nut tool, some slings and a daisy chain for Eldo this weekend. Plan to follow with some nuts, hexes and eventually some cams.

Hope to see you guys Sunday,

Kyle

BTW: I am a R&J member but live a bunch closer to R&J south. If anybody is up for Tuesday night about 6:30 pm let me know. Thanks again!


bustinmins


Mar 15, 2004, 1:32 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:
In reply to:

OMFG, we have a thread that may get the Longest Thread Award and that's actually about /gulp/ CLIMBING!

Well sure. That's watt we doo.

Yeah, but we still got a long way to go before we catch those MASS CLIMBERS thread people!!

8)

For sunday I would like to hook up on a couple of shorter multipitch climbs with someone who might like to take the time to show me what they are doing as they lead, explain placement, rope management and anchors and stuff like that. (timstich, bustinmins?)

Gadsenflag(SP?) Im in the Springs to, pm me and we can hook up and ride up. WARNING - My car is full of dog hair, if your allergic or squeemish we might want to take your ride :)

Im going to be be stooopid busy this week so if anyone pm's me and I dont answer dont sweat it, I will be in touch.

By the way everybody I wasnt kidding about the Lobster, maybe when it gets alittle warmer we could have a lobster cookout after a day of climbing!

Later

That is because there is not any superb climbing in Mass, especially this time of year - therefore they stay on-line a whole lot more. :)

We're going to have to be in ELDO way earlier than what has been published if we're going to get on anything. The wind tower was full of people last weekend - just about every west facing route had a crewe going up it.

The rock in Eldo was still quite COOL at noon on Sunday. May I just add a suggestion for a crag(hoping my trad buddies don't see this) - The Catslab, Clear Creek Canyon? That wall has many routes on it from 5.4-5.12 - some routes are 110' tall thus requiring good rope work or two ropes to do the route. A short approach and what I think would be a warmer wall. It bakes in the summer - hence the reason I think it would be a good place to now - just my .02. Believe me - I'm ready for Eldo though - regardless of the groups decision.

We'll have to storm the Wind Tower(no pun intended) if we want to jump on some of the easy/moderate routes on the west face. If anyone else wants to try single pitch trad at Eldo - The West Face of the Whale's tail has some fun easy routes - The West Crack and The West Dihedral and Clementine. 2/4/5 respectively. Of course, those are Eldo ratings - which are known to be soft. :)

I'm up for either crag - just thinking that eldo stone might be a bit cold for some people.


bustinmins


Mar 15, 2004, 1:37 PM
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I have already PM'd a couple of you but I'll just go ahead and put up a post. I'm looking for gym partners this week on Tues or Thurs at lunch (11:00) and Wed evening. I climb at Paradise. If you are a first timer there, I can get you in for $5.00. If you have been there before, I can get you in for $7.00. Holly, anyone? Can you make it?

I may be able to make Thursday. I arrive back in Denver around 10ish - I'd be a better "alternate" should you not be able to find anyone this week. I will probably be on time -but as soon as I promise something like that a mechanical problem will develop and I'll be stuck in Cali the whole day - so put me down as tenative.


skycat


Mar 15, 2004, 2:13 PM
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I just wanted to say I had a great time on Saturday, sorry I had to leave early, but I'm really glad I squeezed in the time to come out in the morning. I can't wait to climb with all of you again sometime soon.

Next sunday is up in the air for me right now, since I usually snowboard on sundays, so I'm going to wait and see if the resorts get hit with anymore snow before I decide one way or the other.

If someone wants to get together on Saturday, I'm definately free and can even stay out and play all day. :)

Kelli


shorty


Mar 15, 2004, 2:13 PM
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Hey, shorty, are you still racing or can you join us at Gumbie Wall, oh Fearless Leader?
The racing season continues, no matter how slowly I continue to ski. My upcoming schedule is regionals at A-Basin March 20 and nationals at Park City, Utah March 25-27. I'm expecting boot marks on my backside (coordinates well with the Spyder speedsuit) at both events. There's a reason I haven't quit my day job to ski professionally.

March 21 is a possibility for climbing, but I can't commit today. Yesterday I was at Clear Creek's Highwire Crag. The rock was slightly cool if it hadn't received sunshine and fairly nice if it had. The wildcard was the wind -- i.e. calm = good climbing, wind = waaahh. I believe the Denver forecast is for warm temps all week, so unless a storm front comes in by the weekend, conditions should be good for Saturday or Sunday.

As for the "Fearless Leader" moniker -- get real. :roll: I am chust vimpy little gurlie klimber, who gets pumped up leading over-bolted 5.2. Yah, das is me.


bustinmins


Mar 15, 2004, 2:25 PM
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Just got the go a head for a full day on Sunday, Sweet! Like Martha, I would really like to learn more about trad and am willing to offer my services as a belay slave/gear cleaner in return for some good trad beta.

I don't have any trad gear (yet...), but I am willing to bring a rope, some draws and some webbing. May also hit REI and pick up some of the Trad basics (i.e. cleaning tool, some slings and a daisy chain), any recommendations on my first pieces of gear?

Thanks and see you all Sunday!

Kyle

Well Kyle - my recommendations for this weekend would include a nut removal tool, two small BD locking biners(Positron or Quick Silver?), two denim/nylon 24" runners and two spectra 48" runners. When you purchase runners - be sure to pick a color that you like and buy the same lengths in the same color. This will help you later identify by color the length of sling you have in your hands. The nice thing about 48" runners is that they can be used as 24" runners as well - just double them up.

If you are still game for more gear(aren't we all?) - I'd get a set of BD Stoppers 4-13 and some loose/extra BD Hotwire or BD Neutrino style biners. These biners are stong, light and can be used in trad as well as ice(should you go that way someday). You won't need this gear this weekend as a second but it would be nice to learn how to use it should you get off route and then you'd have the ability to pop in a stopper for a little protection.

I'll let you know what I have on my rack if you want a list - just let me know.

If you want me to show you how to place the different types of pro, I'd be happy to show you. However, it seems that you and Jeremy are climbing at similar grades. You two might want to hook up for a climb this weekend in Eldo. I'd gladly show you anything but I want you to feel challenged on the route too. :) Up to you.


bustinmins


Mar 15, 2004, 2:34 PM
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Just got the go a head for a full day on Sunday, Sweet! Like Martha, I would really like to learn more about trad and am willing to offer my services as a belay slave/gear cleaner in return for some good trad beta.

I don't have any trad gear (yet...), but I am willing to bring a rope, some draws and some webbing. May also hit REI and pick up some of the Trad basics (i.e. cleaning tool, some slings and a daisy chain), any recommendations on my first pieces of gear?

Thanks and see you all Sunday!

Kyle

Well Kyle - my recommendations for this weekend would include a nut removal tool, two small BD locking biners(Positron or Quick Silver?), two denim/nylon 24" runners and two spectra 48" runners. When you purchase runners - be sure to pick a color that you like and buy the same lengths in the same color. This will help you later identify by color the length of sling you have in your hands. The nice thing about 48" runners is that they can be used as 24" runners as well - just double them up.

If you are still game for more gear(aren't we all?) - I'd get a set of BD Stoppers 4-13 and some loose/extra BD Hotwire or BD Neutrino style biners. These biners are stong, light and can be used in trad as well as ice(should you go that way someday). You won't need this gear this weekend as a second but it would be nice to learn how to use it should you get off route and then you'd have the ability to pop in a stopper for a little protection.

I'll let you know what I have on my rack if you want a list - just let me know.

If you want me to show you how to place the different types of pro, I'd be happy to show you. However, it seems that you and Jeremy are climbing at similar grades. You two might want to hook up for a climb this weekend in Eldo. I'd gladly show you anything but I want you to feel challenged on the route too. :) Up to you.

I forgot to tell you "Why" denim/nylon runners. You can use those as friction knots where you cannot(or rather should not) use spectra runners in that manner. It is all a function of melting temperature. The spectra runners are bomber strong but they have a low melting temperature. What does that mean? If you are using a spectra runner in a prusik or auto-lock knot this has the potential to MELT the runner and literally cut it in half, thus leaving you in a real pickle of a situation. This isn't a good thing. :) The denim/nylon runners have a much higher melting temperature and CAN be used as friction knots. When might you use them? You might use a friction knot to self-belay yourself as you climb a rope that is stuck in between you and your belay partner above. You might want to use it as an auto-locking knot as a safety backup on rappel. There are lots of uses but the trick to trad is to find gear that has multiple uses just for that reason.


bustinmins


Mar 15, 2004, 2:41 PM
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Trad Newbies:

I maybe preaching to the choir but another cheap and simple to rig "device" that would be good for you all to have is the "Texas Prusik" as described in Freedom of the Hills. I was following a buddy of mine up the Bastille last summer when I hit a 10" section that I simply couldn't unlock. My partner knew how to Z-pulley me up and did so. However, if I had known how to use this simple prusik system and had the gear with me - he wouldn't have had to "rescue" me from that 10" section. I would have been able to do it myself. This is also important when doing overhangs as well. You can prusik up the rope to get to your roof and get back to work.

Enough from me - I'm off on my trip. I'm going to take my rack to LAX and sneak off to Joshua Tree on my 25 hour layover. I hope I can get it past TSA without having to check it.


bustinmins


Mar 15, 2004, 2:49 PM
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I just wanted to say I had a great time on Saturday, sorry I had to leave early, but I'm really glad I squeezed in the time to come out in the morning. I can't wait to climb with all of you again sometime soon.

Next sunday is up in the air for me right now, since I usually snowboard on sundays, so I'm going to wait and see if the resorts get hit with anymore snow before I decide one way or the other.

If someone wants to get together on Saturday, I'm definately free and can even stay out and play all day. :)

Kelli

I might take you up on that Kelli. If you want to play with some basic trad on a fun single pitch route in Eldo - we can certainly do that on Saturday or if you'd rather challenge yourself a little more, we could always go to the Catslab where there are routes from 5.4-5.12. I'm not going to crank so hard that I wear myself out for Sunday's Eldo action but I'm definately game for a little bit of fun either way.

I have tenative plans this weekend - however I think they will most likely fall through. Feel free to give me a call at the number in your PM inbox.

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Forums : Climbing Partners : US - Mountain States

 


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