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shut_up_and_climb
Mar 9, 2004, 12:48 AM
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Has anybody ever free soloed el cap ever? i was just wondering, didnt find anything on the matter anywhere else. me and some people from the gym where wondering about it. if anybody knows let me know. yeah...k -kyle
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whyknot
Mar 9, 2004, 12:59 AM
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I have free soloed El Cap twice. I fell from the 7th pitch on my third try and broke my back, eleven ribs, pelvis, both legs, and collapsed a lung. I'm glad to be alive. If it weren't for the life vest I was wearing, I would certainly be dead. I will never do it again and neither should you. No one should. The End
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radistrad
Mar 9, 2004, 1:10 AM
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Dean Potter has probably done the closest thing to free soloing the Nose route. It goes free at 5.13. He solo aids the really hard parts and free solos the rest. Check out Masters of Stone 5 (I think), you can see him soloing 2500' off of the ground.
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socalbolter
Apr 6, 2004, 2:28 AM
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this is kind of a loaded question. you need to qualify which routes "count." the east buttress has been soloed quite a bit.
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grabngrip
Apr 6, 2004, 3:27 AM
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i free soloed the nose of el cap once and then i woke up and realized my bed was wet :wink:
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boulder_boy
Apr 6, 2004, 4:23 PM
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In reply to: i free soloed the nose of el cap once and then i woke up and realized my bed was wet :wink: lol I was going to say no ones freed the nose except for lynn hill dont we all wish we were that strong
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kitarra
Apr 6, 2004, 4:59 PM
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In reply to: Dean Potter has probably done the closest thing to free soloing the Nose route. Lynn Hill doesn't count?
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tenn_dawg
Apr 6, 2004, 5:01 PM
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She roped up. So no, she dosen't count.
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misfit4lf
Apr 6, 2004, 5:04 PM
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Lynn has free climbed all the pitches of the nose but has not free soloed them. Its a big difference. And the question was has any one soloed them.
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overlord
Apr 6, 2004, 6:29 PM
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not soloed, FREE soloed. big diference here, too.
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drubt
Apr 6, 2004, 6:34 PM
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just for clarification does someone want to define all of those terms just so i know, i get so confused sometime. free solo, freeing, soloing, solo aid, free aid, do those even exist am I making them up? i have no idea what anyone is talking about. i just know it's crazy when someone does it without a rope or any protection which is i think what we're talking about...right?
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misfit4lf
Apr 6, 2004, 6:46 PM
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Defining definitions on this board usually leads to a flame war but here goes anyways.... Free climb- To climb a wall using the gear only for protection and anchors. Basically gear is to safeguard in the event of a wall not to make progress on. free solo - Not ropes or safety gear and just climbing. Soloing- Climbing alone, using ropes and gear or not. I tried to keep the definitions really simple as this isn't really what the thread is about.
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overlord
Apr 6, 2004, 6:51 PM
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and you also have rope solo wich is when you drag a rope negind you but dont clip the pro (the rope is just for rappel). aid freeing would be when ouy free an aid section. aid solo is a solo of aid route (it only means youre climbing alone, without the belayer).
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bumblie
Apr 6, 2004, 6:53 PM
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Why is this in Sport Climbing?
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Deleted
Apr 6, 2004, 6:55 PM
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free solo--you're alone, you fall, you die. no gear, no nothing. you climb this way from bottom to top. (roped fraid) solo--you're alone, you fall, exactly the same as if you were with a partner except you're a complete loser with no friends and a big boner for yourself for soloing that you can't wait to come down and tell people about how hard you got yourself. dean potter has come no where near free soloing el cap. yes, he has climbed without a rope on moderate pitches, but so what? you die at 30 feet or 300 feet. it's committing, but no where near the commitment of free soloing el cap. dean potter is also a self promoting deusch el cap goes free at 5.12d, not 13, jackass. Certainly people have free soloed at that level. But the level of commitment it would take to free solo 36 pitches with the crux 2/3 of the way up and no going down if you don't feel right is beyond imagination. i can't ever see someone free soloing el cap, but it would be a really hot mindfuck to be wrong. unless of course you count the east butt of el cap as an el cap route which no one does. people who climb the east butt don't say, "hey i climbed el cap," unless they're androgenously retarded.
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misfit4lf
Apr 6, 2004, 6:58 PM
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I know where I climb that a rope solo is defined as free climbing the route while basically self belaying. Using the gear to protect against a fall but not for upward advancement. Otherwise your just carrying a rope which means your still soloing. Is it defined differently elsewhere?
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rvega
Apr 6, 2004, 7:35 PM
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In reply to: unless of course you count the east butt of el cap as an el cap route which no one does. people who climb the east butt don't say, "hey i climbed el cap," unless they're androgenously retarded. What the hell does that mean? Sounds sexist to me. However from the rest of your tirade I'd suspect you used that term incorrectly.
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tenn_dawg
Apr 6, 2004, 7:41 PM
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In reply to: free solo--you're alone, you fall, you die. no gear, no nothing. you climb this way from bottom to top. (roped fraid) solo--you're alone, you fall, exactly the same as if you were with a partner except you're a complete loser with no friends and a big boner for yourself for soloing that you can't wait to come down and tell people about how hard you got yourself. dean potter has come no where near free soloing el cap. yes, he has climbed without a rope on moderate pitches, but so what? you die at 30 feet or 300 feet. it's committing, but no where near the commitment of free soloing el cap. dean potter is also a self promoting deusch el cap goes free at 5.12d, not 13, jackass. Certainly people have free soloed at that level. But the level of commitment it would take to free solo 36 pitches with the crux 2/3 of the way up and no going down if you don't feel right is beyond imagination. i can't ever see someone free soloing el cap, but it would be a really hot f--- to be wrong. unless of course you count the east butt of el cap as an el cap route which no one does. people who climb the east butt don't say, "hey i climbed el cap," unless they're androgenously retarded. Woah buddy. Why don't you twist one up, and chill for a little while. That was quite the tirade there. "complete loser with a big boner for yourself" "Self promoting deusch" "jackass" "androgenously retarded" I won't even stoop to the level of shooting insults back at you. Why the hostility anyway?
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crazyjoe234
Apr 6, 2004, 7:52 PM
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tenn_dawg I can't stop laughing at that picture of the kitten *LoL*.
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robmcc
Apr 6, 2004, 7:56 PM
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In reply to: and you also have rope solo wich is when you drag a rope negind you but dont clip the pro (the rope is just for rappel). That's free soloing. If you're climbing without relying on gear for upward progress or safety, as in you fall, you deck, you're free soloing. It doesn't matter if you're trailing a rope, a safe, or your kid sister. Rope soloing is self belayed lead climbing, be it trad, sport, or aid, I'd imagine. Never done aid, so I won't claim that one with any certainty. Rob
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crazyjoe234
Apr 6, 2004, 7:56 PM
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Mandrew..? Where all here for you man, come on let it out. I know how you feel holding all that anger inside all these years *LoL*. Hey, does RC.com do a criminal background check?.I'm just wondering ya know *LoL*
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andypro
Apr 6, 2004, 7:57 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: unless of course you count the east butt of el cap as an el cap route which no one does. people who climb the east butt don't say, "hey i climbed el cap," unless they're androgenously retarded. What the hell does that mean? Sounds sexist to me. However from the rest of your tirade I'd suspect you used that term incorrectly. Hmm...but sexist to whom? That is the question seeing as androgYnous means "suitable for both sexes" (in one of numerous meanings, but all related to transgender) :wink: So he's saying that if you climbed the east butress and said you lcimbed el cap that your neither feminine or masculine, and retarded. hmmm....
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crazyjoe234
Apr 6, 2004, 7:59 PM
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Me and the kitten are gonna free solo El Cap this weekend and the 2 killer brownies are gonna watch..LoL
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rvega
Apr 6, 2004, 8:05 PM
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In reply to: So he's saying that if you climbed the east butress and said you lcimbed el cap that your neither feminine or masculine, and retarded. hmmm.... Good thing I have never free soloed the East Butress.
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robgordon
Apr 6, 2004, 8:12 PM
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OMG!1 this again. i am so perplexed at this seemingly never-ending confusion on the difference between free climbing and free soloing. it's fascinating. in a "why are they still missing the painfully obvious?" sort of way.
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andypro
Apr 6, 2004, 8:17 PM
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something equally beat to death and perplexing.. WHO KILLED JFK?!?!?!
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crazyjoe234
Apr 6, 2004, 8:20 PM
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WHO KILLED JFK? I think the kitten did it that must be why he's running.
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tedc
Apr 6, 2004, 8:39 PM
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no
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deleted
Deleted
Apr 6, 2004, 8:41 PM
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by androgenously retarded i just meant like one of those retarded people who you can't tell if its a boy or a girl no offense
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sandbag
Apr 6, 2004, 8:47 PM
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In reply to: free solo--you're alone, you fall, you die. no gear, no nothing. you climb this way from bottom to top. (roped fraid) solo--you're alone, you fall, exactly the same as if you were with a partner except you're a complete loser with no friends and a big boner for yourself for soloing that you can't wait to come down and tell people about how hard you got yourself. dean potter has come no where near free soloing el cap. yes, he has climbed without a rope on moderate pitches, but so what? you die at 30 feet or 300 feet. it's committing, but no where near the commitment of free soloing el cap. dean potter is also a self promoting deusch el cap goes free at 5.12d, not 13, jackass. Certainly people have free soloed at that level. But the level of commitment it would take to free solo 36 pitches with the crux 2/3 of the way up and no going down if you don't feel right is beyond imagination. i can't ever see someone free soloing el cap, but it would be a really hot f--- to be wrong. unless of course you count the east butt of el cap as an el cap route which no one does. people who climb the east butt don't say, "hey i climbed el cap," unless they're androgenously retarded. Wouldnt it technically go at 1 pitch since youre only starting and finishing....just a question semantics of no rope and all....\ :P
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jumaringjeff
Apr 6, 2004, 9:10 PM
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In reply to: ...you're a complete loser with no friends and a big boner for yourself for soloing that you can't wait to come down and tell people about how hard you got yourself.... ...dean potter is also a self promoting deusch... ...el cap goes free at 5.12d, not 13, jackass... ...people who climb the east butt don't say, "hey i climbed el cap," unless they're androgenously retarded.... ...no offense... 'nuff said.
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b_fost
Apr 6, 2004, 9:51 PM
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In reply to: dean potter is also a self promoting deusch are you kidding?
In reply to: el cap goes free at 5.12d, not 13, jackass. :lol: :lol:
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b_fost
Apr 6, 2004, 9:53 PM
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In reply to: something equally beat to death and perplexing.. WHO KILLED JFK?!?!?! the puff of smoke from the grassy knoll :wink:
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shut_up_and_climb
Apr 6, 2004, 10:49 PM
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i got a lot of posts, to bad only one was informative. :roll:
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mreardon
Apr 7, 2004, 4:40 AM
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By my definitions, not anyone else's: Free-Solo - no rope or gear to help you up the climb or when you fall. Solo - gear/rope used to help you up or in case of falling. Free-Climb - gear/rope used only to catch you in case you fall, but all upward momentum is by you. No one has free-soloed the Nose under these guidelines. Dean Potter and a couple others have Soloed the Nose using gear. Potter was just known for doing it with the fastest time, and for a couple pitches he free-soloed. Lynn Hill is the only one who Free-Climbed the Nose in a day and on lead, and by her account it goes at 5.13c-5.14a (changing corners pitch being the hardest). Scott Burke Free-Climbed the Nose over the course of 261 days, and did the hardest pitch on toprope which he claims is closer to 5.14b. It's still open to any challengers :D with the Hubers talking about it according to some accounts.
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bvb
Apr 7, 2004, 4:52 AM
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three pages of posts, to define the difference between soloing and free-soloing. i would be laughing, if it were not so frightening and pathetic a thought that you people actually climb. jesus mutherfukkin christ.
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climbsomething
Apr 7, 2004, 5:18 AM
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In reply to: i would be laughing, if it were not so frightening and pathetic a thought that you people actually climb. Nah, Bob, I don't think EVERYbody should get that much credit.
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dlux127
Apr 7, 2004, 6:37 AM
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Damn, what a stupid ass thread. A honest question was asked and it turned into a flame session. I just met dean yesterday in the Valley and he didn't seem like a deuch. Maybe he was mean to you Mandrew because your a chuffer. You got to clean that sand out of your vagina.
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bvb
Apr 8, 2004, 12:10 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: i can't ever see someone free soloing el cap, but it would be a really hot f--- to be wrong. i think there's a pretty good chance someone will free-solo the west face of el cap one of these days. hell, for all i know it's already been done. i don't pay much attention to that stuff these days. the signal-to-noise ratio is too grim for me to deal with. sort of like this whole fuxxored site.
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hosh
Apr 8, 2004, 12:42 AM
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why is this in the "sport climbing" fourm? I don't understand... Shouldn't it be in Trivia or Trad or Aid?
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mreardon
Apr 8, 2004, 6:05 AM
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In reply to: three pages of posts, to define the difference between soloing and free-soloing. i would be laughing, if it were not so frightening and pathetic a thought that you people actually climb. jesus mutherfukkin christ. Climb? What's that?
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akclimber
Apr 11, 2004, 9:49 AM
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ahhh, yet another boring flamefest...i was actually interested in the question too...everyone has to be right all the time on this site...zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz.....
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Alphaboth
Mar 4, 2011, 5:37 AM
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Just my curiousity, but what if Honnold does the nose? I mean it's certainly a stretch, but I'm sure the idea has popped into a few heads. Lynn Hill frees the nose, Sharma climbs realization...continues to do his thing, TC does some crazy single day link-ups on el cap, those Huber brothers fly up the thing, dean potter...just "flies", some folks tick some crazy 14c-d trad stuff, daniel woods is ticking V15s like it's his job...but if honnold does a fs of the nose, I can't think of anything more badass to be done...
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rangerrob
Mar 5, 2011, 1:46 AM
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I can think of a more badass things to be done. How about someone freeing the compressor route without using any of the bolts? How about someone even climbing the west face of Makalu? How about someone climbing the NW face of the Devil's Thumb? These things would be totally badass. RR
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camhead
Mar 5, 2011, 3:46 AM
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rangerrob wrote: I can think of a more badass things to be done. How about someone freeing the compressor route without using any of the bolts? How about someone even climbing the west face of Makalu? How about someone climbing the NW face of the Devil's Thumb? These things would be totally badass. RR No, a free solo of the Nose would still be more badass. It was funny to re-read this thread. I forgot that rc.com has always been full of gumbs and n00bs.
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USnavy
Mar 5, 2011, 6:18 AM
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[quote "radistrad"]Dean Potter has probably done the closest thing to free soloing the Nose route. It goes free at 5.13. He solo aids the really hard parts and free solos the rest. Check out Masters of Stone 5 (I think), you can see him soloing 2500' off of the ground.[/quote] It goes free at 5.14a/b, duh. The great roof pitch is 5.13c but the changing corners pitch is harder. [:)]
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milesenoell
Mar 5, 2011, 7:07 AM
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USnavy wrote: [quote "radistrad"]Dean Potter has probably done the closest thing to free soloing the Nose route. It goes free at 5.13. He solo aids the really hard parts and free solos the rest. Check out Masters of Stone 5 (I think), you can see him soloing 2500' off of the ground.[/quote] It goes free at 5.14a/b, duh. The great roof pitch is 5.13c but the changing corners pitch is harder. [:)] NAVY, you got beat to the punch on that response by mreardon by 7 freakin' years! And then you went on to cheesetit the quote! lol
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curator
Mar 5, 2011, 1:52 PM
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Tommy Caldwell has also freed the nose in a day. Then he did Freerider as well. Documented in Dosage 4. Free soloing the Nose is a long way off if it ever gets done. Insecure 13c and 14-...yikes. Freerider will probably get free soloed in the next few years. Just a prediction. It's a full length El Cap route that goes at just 5.12d. With guys like Honnold soloing insecure 5.13 stem corners like those found on Moonlight Buttress it seems likely that Freerider is attainable. But Honnold has publicly stated that soloing Freerider is a big step up from the solos he's done so far and it's not in his plans.
(This post was edited by curator on Mar 5, 2011, 1:54 PM)
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rangerrob
Mar 5, 2011, 2:01 PM
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Cam I agree that free soloing the Nose is way badass. But I think free soloing the west face of Makalu, (extreme difficulties, way above 8000 meters, and sustained vertical to overhanging terrain) would be so far beyond badass we couldn't even comprehend it. RR
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highlander
Mar 5, 2011, 4:14 PM
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Freerider 12d and the Nose is 14A that is a big difference. Alex has not even freed the Nose only 3 people have: Hill, Caldwell, Rodden. Burk did not fee it, top roping the great roof does not count. Can't see anybody fee soloing the Nose, the geat roof and changing corners pitch would be super insecure. Freerider is more realistic but it has several insecure sections on polished granite, this not a jug haul sport route.
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csproul
Mar 6, 2011, 4:16 PM
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curator wrote: Tommy Caldwell has also freed the nose in a day. Then he did Freerider as well. Documented in Dosage 4. Free soloing the Nose is a long way off if it ever gets done. Insecure 13c and 14-...yikes. Freerider will probably get free soloed in the next few years. Just a prediction. It's a full length El Cap route that goes at just 5.12d. With guys like Honnold soloing insecure 5.13 stem corners like those found on Moonlight Buttress it seems likely that Freerider is attainable. But Honnold has publicly stated that soloing Freerider is a big step up from the solos he's done so far and it's not in his plans. Y'all do know who mreardon is (was)?... and I'm pretty sure that his response was made before TC freed the nose?
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marc801
Mar 6, 2011, 4:34 PM
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highlander wrote: Burk did not fee[sic] it, top roping the great roof does not count. As mreardon wrote 7 years ago:
In reply to: Scott Burke Free-Climbed the Nose over the course of 261 days, Burke didn't redpoint the Great Roof pitch, but unquestionably, he climbed it free. Edit for spelling
(This post was edited by marc801 on Mar 6, 2011, 11:16 PM)
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curator
Mar 6, 2011, 6:56 PM
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OOPS! I did not notice the dates on the first half of this thread.
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EuroFreeBase
Jun 11, 2011, 4:26 AM
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i did. attempt one was good but hit the great roof and tried to dyno and fell. had to pull my chute and hit wall and almost got tangled. second try fully sent it!
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