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mother_sheep
Sep 20, 2004, 9:18 AM
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Well, this will probably fail miserably but I thought it would be cool to get an ice/snow climbing partners thread going. My ice partner seems to have fallen off the planet so I have none now. I need one! I currently climb WI4 without flailing. I'm interested in trying alpine ice this year and leading WI3. Anyone else looking for ice/snow partners, post here so I can bombard you with PMs. Okay, so if you don't like me, post here anyway so someone else can bombard you. It's a good thing, really. :-)
I know this is a little premature since the ice hasn't formed but hey, some of us are EXCITED!!!!!!
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mbg
Sep 20, 2004, 10:18 AM
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I wouldn't say you're premature at all!
A couple years ago I was swinging tools in Boulder Canyon on the second weekend of October; and if snow falls in the high country this week as expected, Lincoln Falls and other areas could be in even sooner. I was at Lumpy yesterday and saw that the Notch Couloir and Dream Weaver were holding solid white stripes pretty much from top to bottom. :)
I've had the ice itch lately too, let's see how the weather goes in the next couple of weeks.
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mother_sheep
Sep 20, 2004, 10:20 AM
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In reply to: I wouldn't say you're premature at all! A couple years ago I was swinging tools in Boulder Canyon on the second weekend of October; and if snow falls in the high country this week as expected, Lincoln Falls and other areas could be in even sooner. I was at Lumpy yesterday and saw that the Notch Couloir and Dream Weaver were holding solid white stripes pretty much from top to bottom. :) I've had the ice itch lately too, let's see how the weather goes in the next couple of weeks.
Nice! After this weekend, my Sunday's are going to be free again. Is Dreamweaver any good this time of year? Or is that one climb that's best left for spring/early summer?
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mbg
Sep 20, 2004, 10:26 AM
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The word is that the last two springs have made for perfect conditions in Dreamweaver, but it also comes into shape in the fall pretty frequently. Let's keep our fingers crossed!
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shrubby
Sep 20, 2004, 10:45 AM
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im looking for someone to do ice with, although im pretty new to it. so if someone is willing to climb with a rookie, sign me up.
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sharpie
Sep 20, 2004, 11:10 AM
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I like ice :wink:
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cdb1386
Sep 20, 2004, 1:10 PM
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My wife and I might want to join in on the ice festivities sometime. Been climbing ice for 2 years, but still a novice IMO.
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calamity_chk
Sep 20, 2004, 1:22 PM
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i've never poked ice with picks and stuff - but from what i hear, it seems like the thing that all of the cool kids are doing. can i talk someone into initiating me this winter?
[pathetic] ... please? [/pathetic]
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shamu
Sep 20, 2004, 1:26 PM
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I am definitely interested, got back from Bolivia late July, where I climbed three routes (alpine ice up 55 degrees), and can't wait for snow/ice to come to Colorado. I will be back to Denver October 4th, let me know what you are planning.
Andrej
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sharpie
Sep 20, 2004, 1:48 PM
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In reply to: can i talk someone into initiating me this winter?
I'm sure we can figure out how to bolt some crampons to that cast...and maybe we can weld a pick to your crutches, whip-it style...
Or, you could check out Chicks with Picks...http://www.chickswithpicks.net. I hear it's much more friendly and easy going than thier summer treking organization, "Bettys with Machetes"...
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calamity_chk
Sep 20, 2004, 2:18 PM
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haha, verrry funny. i should actually be off the crutches later this week. (yaaay!)
chicks with picks requires money - the best that i can offer is free beer.
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mother_sheep
Sep 20, 2004, 2:47 PM
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In reply to: i've never poked ice with picks and stuff - but from what i hear, it seems like the thing that all of the cool kids are doing. can i talk someone into initiating me this winter? [pathetic] ... please? [/pathetic]
Holy crap! I think I'm gonna faint! Amber wants to be put on ice??? Where is the real amber and what have you done to her?
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calamity_chk
Sep 20, 2004, 3:21 PM
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she has apparently moved to colorado and surrounded herself with a bunch of ice climbers. word on the street is that she's also smoke-free these days.
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mother_sheep
Sep 20, 2004, 3:24 PM
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In reply to: she has apparently moved to colorado and surrounded herself with a bunch of ice climbers. word on the street is that she's also smoke-free these days.
Freezing your arss off will be a piece of cake compared to quitting smoking!! CONGRATS!!!!
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calamity_chk
Sep 20, 2004, 3:33 PM
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yeah, but will it be as easy for those who have to listen to my suffering?
tee hee.
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uitdoorqi
Sep 20, 2004, 3:56 PM
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Oh sweet, ice climbing AND people to do it with. It's going to be a great winter. Count me in once the ice starts (and I learn a little).
But how do you get your feet to stay with those little rubber shoes? :wink:
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mickymac1
Sep 20, 2004, 5:46 PM
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[quote="amber_chk"]chicks with picks requires money - the best that i can offer is free beer.[/quote]
hmmmmmmm.... Not only do I like Ice, I like ICE cold beer too!! :shock: :lol:
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calamity_chk
Sep 20, 2004, 5:51 PM
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yay! does that mean you'll teach me to ice climb for the mere cost of some kickass kolorado microbrew?
amber
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mickymac1
Sep 20, 2004, 5:53 PM
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In reply to: word on the street is that she's also smoke-free these days.
The best thing you could ever do for yourself!! Kudos to you girl!!!
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mickymac1
Sep 20, 2004, 5:55 PM
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In reply to: yay! does that mean you'll teach me to ice climb for the mere cost of some kickass kolorado microbrew? amber
i've climbed for much less believe me!!! LOL!! :lol:
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calamity_chk
Sep 20, 2004, 6:28 PM
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sweet. pick me, pick me. :D
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pebbleman
Sep 21, 2004, 8:14 AM
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You will be able to ice/mixed climb in Colorado in about three days. There is a huge winter storm pounding the mountains at this very moment, I suspect there will be storm ice on Long's Peak and in the North Face of NotchTop following this deluge. I was in the Tetons last week and the northern aspects on the Grand Teton are already quite heavily iced. The lowland stuff will come in November, I did Mixed Emotions (RMNP) last year 4 November, but this year that date may move more towards Halloween or earlier still as it is a cold and wet year. Vail was seeing some good ice by Thanksgiving last year, so this is a good time to get on the finger board and start pulling plastic with your tools. You can dry-tool anytime, a good frost is useful to hold the scissor blocks in place and that should be any day now, the sooner you start, the stronger you'll be when your projects form. If you are a rock climber looking to transition to ice you will prefer leashless as the leash will drive you nuts and your contact strength will allow you to hang on to the tool anyway. So what are you waiting for?
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mother_sheep
Sep 21, 2004, 8:25 AM
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In reply to: So what are you waiting for?
Payday. :lol:
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timstich
Sep 21, 2004, 8:34 AM
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Marketa and I went up to St. Mary's Glacier on last Sunday to do a little snow travel practice. It's pretty much all gone. There was some snow around in the notch, but it was raining, so we left. Some desperate snowboarders were coming down. They looked disappointed.
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kid
Sep 21, 2004, 5:38 PM
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To far from Colorado but snow line has dropped to 6500ft here in Montana and the weather has remained cold. The going to the sun road in Glacier Park was closed a couple days ago due to winter conditions. I am thinking three weeks for mixed alpine if the weather holds like this. I am sure BC is getting the same temps possibly lower snow line up north. See ice threads for Canadiane Rockies. I wish you guys were up north. Mother Sheep - thanks for the info on kids and climbing - I took my 4yr old climbing the other day and he had a blast. Although my helmet was a bit big for the little guy. Good intro for next year. Climbers always welcome in Whitefish MT. ~ Climb on... Greg F
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mother_sheep
Sep 22, 2004, 7:27 AM
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In reply to: To far from Colorado but snow line has dropped to 6500ft here in Montana and the weather has remained cold. The going to the sun road in Glacier Park was closed a couple days ago due to winter conditions. I am thinking three weeks for mixed alpine if the weather holds like this. I am sure BC is getting the same temps possibly lower snow line up north. See ice threads for Canadiane Rockies. I wish you guys were up north. Mother Sheep - thanks for the info on kids and climbing - I took my 4yr old climbing the other day and he had a blast. Although my helmet was a bit big for the little guy. Good intro for next year. Climbers always welcome in Whitefish MT. ~ Climb on... Greg F
Any time Greg! Glad it worked out for you!
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pebbleman
Sep 23, 2004, 6:52 AM
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Yes of course, the expense... Boot s are probably your first acquisition, LaSportiva makes several wome's models, top dollar though. Neptune has sale boots often in small sizes, you can rent to own there as well. The Black Diamond web-site has clearance on Scarpas at present, these are very good boots, get an insulated model. Crampons would be next, and a good down jacket or you'll freeze your arse off and hate it. Decent gloves too. Tools are last, you can always borrow tools, especially leashless. Start with the pullups now! (My tomatoes nearly froze this morning, so that means it is underway.)
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wanderinfree
Sep 23, 2004, 9:01 AM
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SWEET! I tried ice climbing for the first time this past winter. One of the perks of having a friend who's an ice climbing guide up in Lake Placid, NY. Absolutely loved it. So count me in this year!
Again....who wouldn't move to Colorado? Rock and ice to climb, and snow to board. What a miserable place. 8^)
--Kim
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pebbleman
Sep 24, 2004, 7:20 AM
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Then you are the good luck one, this is the wettest year for maybe the last 5-7 years. It has been lean and leaner with the drought. Truly this will be a stellar season...
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sharpie
Sep 24, 2004, 7:37 AM
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I wish there was an emoticon for knocking on wood...
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furrymurry
Sep 25, 2004, 1:09 PM
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I'm very much interested in making the transition from rock to ice (been on rock for about 5 years). I did a NOLS Alaska mountaineering trip this summer so as to get the basic intro to the cold weather thing. I've got a fair amount of the gear and will be buying more of it soon. If anyone is planning any trips let me know, I'd love to tag along and I'm perty smert and outdoor savvy so I shouldn't be too much of a burden.
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furrymurry
Sep 25, 2004, 1:11 PM
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Oh yeah, I realize this is mostly Colorado peeps, but I'm willing to make the drive whenever the possibility presents itself. And if access is ever an issue I drive a lifted, locked, and winched Wrangler.
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furrymurry
Sep 26, 2004, 9:11 AM
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Got a solid 3/16 steel bumper, I'm sure it'll do just fine :wink:
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timstich
Sep 27, 2004, 2:37 AM
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Since this is the snow thread, I'll post our little note about Gray's Peak. Hiked the North Slopes route yesterday with Marketa, getting a nice, late start. The weather held well into the late afternoon, so no turning around because of rain/snow. The snow on the trail is fairly new it looks like, but is getting sun-packed. None the less, you can kick it with your boots if you try hard enough or get into the softer stuff to the side. There were fresh footprints in South Paw Couloir on Torrey's Peak. Some people even came up long after we started down. It's very nice when these days happen.
On the way out, we noticed a black splash and then a steady line of motor oil on the unimproved road, which is very rough. It continued on for several thousand feet until, yep, the now dead auto sat on the side of the road. Poor engine must have seized up. It was a VW Golf, I think. Glad we have a skid plate covering our oil filter.
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sharpie
Sep 27, 2004, 8:52 AM
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Eli Helmuth's Condition Report for Rocky Mountain National Park
September 21, 2004
A large new cold front is dropping 6 to 12 inches on the High Peaks as I write this, but better weather is expected by the weekend. This is the largest storm of the fall season, though the Continental Divide has had a couple of 3-6 inch coatings along it's length in the last month and permanent snowfields such as the Ptarmagin and Taylor Glaciers and Lambs Slide are holding this fresh snow very easily. This is creating excellent fall alpine conditions though the new deposit will need a few days to consolidate.
Ice on the upper flanks of Longs is rapidly forming and I also saw much new ice on the North Face of Mt. Meeker in this last week. The Dovetail ice climbs on the North Face of Longs look to be in good shape and there is substantial new ice forming on this aspect at the higher elevations. Over the weekend, parties were on the Diamond, which was mostly dry except for the ledges of the Casual Route and at the base of the Window. This new storm may end the Diamond season, however, except for those planning winter style ascents. The North Chimney is still reported to be a fairly challenging mixed climb (at least in approach shoes) at the moment and so the Chasm View rappels onto Broadway would be the easiest way to access Diamond routes for those interested in a pre-winter ascent. Alexanders has ice in it, but is still in challenging mixed conditions; it will be fatter in a few more weeks. John Bicknell and client Kurt Johnson did the Notch Couloir on Saturday and John reports that both Lambs Slide and the Notch are in their best fall conditions in several years. The Notch is filled in with solid snow and ice, with ice and mixed conditions in the dogleg crux and in the upper pitches to the summit. It is a more challenging climb in late fall than in the spring due to these conditions. John and client Jon Lenbow then did the First Ptarmigan Finger on Sunday; this too was in excellent condition. Unless the present storm bring early avalanche risk to RMNP, John believes this will be the best fall alpine season since the mid-90's.
This is maybe the tail-end of the season for high alpine rock in the mountains although the many classics on Lumpy Ridge should be great until November. New snow and ice on the Taylor Glacier, the Ptarmigan Fingers, and the Y Couloir on Ypsilon will make for improved alpine mixed climbing conditions. The current colder conditions should keep these routes well frozen and it is expected to be a banner ice climbing and skiing year.
On Longs, conditions have changed remarkably. On the Keyhole, conditions are technical, particularly since significant snow is falling at that elevation now while I write this. The North Face route has a good bit of new snow and ice and the crux sections are covered in ice and require good front-pointing technique and the use of at least one ice tool. The Keyhole Ridge is a little-climbed alternative to the North Face; it is mostly dry, more sustained and involves some classic moderate pitches of rock climbing.
Overall, the colder temps. of the last few weeks have resulted in a solidifying snow pack and in the high mountains, we have much earlier than usual fall conditions and it is anticipated that the ice climbing season will come early and last long if this trend continues. Fresh snow and ice will be coating most of the surfaces above 11,000' and will persist the longest on the east and north facing aspects.
Dreamweaver is perhaps coming into it's peak form as an ice climb - see what you can find up there!
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killclimbz
Sep 27, 2004, 8:59 AM
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Speaking of Ice, does anyone know the status of the proposed ice park in Idaho Springs? Rumor was that it was going to opening around the 1st of January, but I know they have hit some snags. Mostly with people driving I-70 and looking at the climbers causing wrecks, which will probably happen. If this happens, and it is successful you could see a flurry of ice parks appearing around Colorado. I know Georgetown has been looking into the possibility. A lot of the mountain towns have got to be jealous of what Ouray has accomplished.
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el_capitan
Sep 27, 2004, 3:04 PM
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I've only ice-climbed a few times but I'm definitely wanting to get more into it this year. Also any alpiner's out there who would like to show a midwest implant a few things about the mountains? I'll supply the beverages.
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pebbleman
Sep 29, 2004, 6:36 AM
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Good report on Long's, any sign of Smear of Fear?
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tradklime
Sep 29, 2004, 12:43 PM
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In reply to: I'm interested in trying alpine ice this year and leading WI3. Anyone else looking for ice/snow partners, post here so I can bombard you with PMs.
I'll climb with you sometime.
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tradklime
Sep 29, 2004, 12:47 PM
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In reply to: Good report on Long's, any sign of Smear of Fear?
I haven't heard anything of it yet, seems a tad early, I could be wrong though. I'd love to get on this, but it would be a tough introduction to the season. I would be nice to be in your groove before hitting it (on lead at least). Anyone need a partner to follow them up this thing when it shapes up?
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sherpajames
Sep 29, 2004, 9:47 PM
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It's nice to know there's a lot more ice junkies out there. If anyone is interested in climbing some ice this winter in SLC area (Stairway, Fang, Candlestick, Automatic, Briadevalle, ect.....) let me know.
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timstich
Sep 30, 2004, 4:56 AM
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When the rock gets cold and driving to Shelf gets old, you can climb snow and ice or climb in the indoor gym...I mean shoot yourself. Some people don't like the cold and wet that goes with it, but hey, that's why they have chocolate and vanilla ice cream.
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timstich
Sep 30, 2004, 8:13 AM
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That's the ticket! Looking forward to that stuff. Me climbing pal is getting some snow pickets, pitons, and a deadman. I got some gaitors finally. Sheesh. Being unemployed sure cramps your style. But then, it's like being a retro climber like the original Eiger ascentionists that had gear no better than what I currently own. Ve can klimb vit dis gear!
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cdb1386
Sep 30, 2004, 8:17 AM
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Hey Tim, I have some pickets and a dead man and some assorted pitons, let me know if you want to borrow them sometime.
In reply to: That's the ticket! Looking forward to that stuff. Me climbing pal is getting some snow pickets, pitons, and a deadman. I got some gaitors finally. Sheesh. Being unemployed sure cramps your style. But then, it's like being a retro climber like the original Eiger ascentionists that had gear no better than what I currently own. Ve can klimb vit dis gear! |
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timstich
Sep 30, 2004, 8:20 AM
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In reply to: Hey Tim, I have some pickets and a dead man and some assorted pitons, let me know if you want to borrow them sometime.
Thanks for the offer, coop. We haven't met yet, I don't think. Dang! Let's get together sometime you guys and have a beer since it's getting rainy now and after work climbing is getting more gym oriented. We could mull over alpine plans and such. It's been demonstrated that beer makes commitments to climb happen more freely.
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sharpie
Sep 30, 2004, 10:08 AM
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That's the plan, guess we forgot to invite you. Just joking... :wink:
mother_sheep and I are planning to meet at R&J South this afternoon at 5:30pm, climb for a bit then go booze for a bit and talk about upcoming alpine excursions.
Anybody is welcome to join us, provided you enjoy climbing and drinking (unless Tracy wanted me all to herself :oops:). I'll be the tall, fat, weak guy grunting through the opening moves of a tricky 5.5 route, conected to the skinny, white, blonde chic pointing and laughing at me...
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timstich
Sep 30, 2004, 10:45 AM
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In reply to: That's the plan, guess we forgot to invite you. Just joking... :wink:
Your family pet will pay for that slight. Just kidding!
In reply to: mother_sheep and I are planning to meet at R&J South this afternoon at 5:30pm, climb for a bit then go booze for a bit and talk about upcoming alpine excursions.
Great. Would you guys mind giving me a call before you head over to the bar? Thanks. Or your family pet will pay the price.
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mother_sheep
Sep 30, 2004, 3:03 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: That's the plan, guess we forgot to invite you. Just joking... :wink: Your family pet will pay for that slight. Just kidding! In reply to: mother_sheep and I are planning to meet at R&J South this afternoon at 5:30pm, climb for a bit then go booze for a bit and talk about upcoming alpine excursions. Great. Would you guys mind giving me a call before you head over to the bar? Thanks. Or your family pet will pay the price.
And what shall we call you Timmy Tim?
Okee. Will do.
And Aaron, I would never point and laugh at you! Unless you were
"That Guy." You know the one that grunts and sweats while trying to work the opening moves of a tricky 5.5. I'd only laugh at him and him only.
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mbg
Oct 1, 2004, 9:34 AM
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It sounds like Lincoln Falls, usually one of the first places to come into shape, is surprisingly "dry" right now. :?
Has anyone been up to the Park in the last week?
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timstich
Oct 1, 2004, 9:42 AM
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In reply to: Has anyone been up to the Park in the last week?
No, but sharpie is going up there this weekend.
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sharpie
Oct 1, 2004, 9:52 AM
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Although the current weather may throw a kink in those plans, all the new snow over the past 24hrs may need a few days to consolidate.
All reports are that the park is coming in early!
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mbg
Oct 1, 2004, 10:10 AM
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The weather doesn't look ideal for the weekend but I don't think all that much snow has fallen recently. If the highcountry was getting dumped on the ski areas would likely be hyping it up; WP and Eldora have only gotten a dusting.
Sharpie, what are you going to try if you make it up there?
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sharpie
Oct 1, 2004, 10:42 AM
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Lamb's Slide > Broadway > Notch Couloir
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mbg
Oct 1, 2004, 11:26 AM
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I was looking at the various webcams and didn't see much but I'll take your word for it! :)
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coclimber26
Oct 2, 2004, 8:26 PM
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Went up to Mosquito Pass near Alma...1/2 inches of windblown...maybe in a few weeks.
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timstich
Oct 3, 2004, 3:47 PM
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Did Dead Dog Couloir with sharpie and michael today. Tracey's asthma inhaler was making her heart rate too high, so she turned around after the hike to the base. There really isn't a good snow coating on the couloir yet, but it's obviously doable. I wore down my crampon points hitting rocks just beneath the snow. There are two climb-ups on the route about 5 feet tall where the snow footing at the base of the steps is hollow. This makes getting up a bit sporting. The route was a blast, none the less, especially the last 200ft. to the summit from the knife edge ridge. Should be in better shape later in the season.
Also, the angle of the slopes never exceeds 45 degrees. We comfortabley soloed it. Maybe bring an 8.8 mm line or something skinny just in case you want to belay. A few slings and some rock pro will suffice. One mountain axe is all you need.
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mbg
Oct 4, 2004, 5:46 AM
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Had a go at Dreamweaver on Mt. Meeker on Saturday and I regrettably have to say that the enthusiastic early season reports that have been circulating the past week or two appear to be a bit overblown. The route is mostly a snow slog with mixed climbing at the steeper sections; we only saw 30-40' of ice on the entire route. All in all, it was a fun but exhausting outing; summer has definitely passed in the highcountry, we saw full winter conditions for much of the day.
We didn't get a great look at the Notch Couloir but what we could see of it didn't look all that good either. The Darkstar Couloir also appeared to be in far from ideal shape. There was a fair amount of ice on the upper Diamond so the Smear of Fear could be decent before long and the positive reports I’ve heard about Alexander's Chimney may be more accurate.
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timstich
Oct 4, 2004, 9:26 AM
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In reply to: Had a go at Dreamweaver on Mt. Meeker on Saturday and I regrettably have to say that the enthusiastic early season reports that have been circulating the past week or two appear to be a bit overblown. The route is mostly a snow slog with mixed climbing at the steeper sections; we only saw 30-40' of ice on the entire route.
That's exactly like it was on July 5th.
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mickymac1
Oct 4, 2004, 10:57 AM
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I'm sitting here in work dreaming about my move to Colorado as I study a topo of RMNP and I notice that Gem Lake Trail is only 1 mile from where I hope to purchase this condo. I invision strapping on a pair of skis or snowshoes and taking a walk up this trail and low and behold I see it takes me to Cow Creek Trail and BRIDAL VEIL FALLS!! Now I know I'm no genius, but I do know that water freezes once the temp reaches 32 or below, so now I envision a backpack with a rope, ice screws, crampons, and ice tools!! Has anyone in here climbed Bridal Veil? Anyone want to once I get my sorry ass out there? Any one know what it might be rated? I'll wait here patiently as I continue to, in the words of Steven Tyler, DREAM ON!!! There's rainbows and lollipops dancing in this boys head today!! :lol:
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mother_sheep
Oct 4, 2004, 12:55 PM
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In reply to: Had a go at Dreamweaver on Mt. Meeker on Saturday and I regrettably have to say that the enthusiastic early season reports that have been circulating the past week or two appear to be a bit overblown. The route is mostly a snow slog with mixed climbing at the steeper sections; we only saw 30-40' of ice on the entire route. All in all, it was a fun but exhausting outing; summer has definitely passed in the highcountry, we saw full winter conditions for much of the day. We didn't get a great look at the Notch Couloir but what we could see of it didn't look all that good either. The Darkstar Couloir also appeared to be in far from ideal shape. There was a fair amount of ice on the upper Diamond so the Smear of Fear could be decent before long and the positive reports I’ve heard about Alexander's Chimney may be more accurate.
A friend of mine attempted Darkstar on Sunday and reported that it was full of heavy, unconsolidated snow. They had to bail. And according to the party on Dreamweaver, the snow was loose and deep!
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mickymac1
Oct 4, 2004, 2:25 PM
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Oooooops!! I think I got confused with THE Bridalveil Falls in Telluride. Damn rainbows in my head and I can't think straight!! :oops:
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cdb1386
Oct 6, 2004, 10:11 AM
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So anything have enough snow to climb and ski down yet?
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mother_sheep
Oct 6, 2004, 12:30 PM
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I see NOTHING! But I guess that means it's covered in clouds?
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sharpie
Oct 6, 2004, 1:11 PM
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Yeah, I've been watching it all day. It was clear this morning, slowly but steadily it has clouded over to the point it is at now...
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pebbleman
Oct 7, 2004, 6:42 AM
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Smear of Fear? Piece of piss. One hell of a march up there though. I lugged some bloke up that thing years ago, he dropped a bunch of my gear off the route, he had this Arcteryx pack with some kind of an external sleeve, no bottom mind you to this feature, just a sleeve. So, he keeps dropping gear into this “feature’, for safe keeping. Zip, down goes my Albalakov hooker. Zip, down go my OR gloves. Zip, down go the pegs. I say, “Hey, friend, did you know that nifty new pack of yours has a hole in it?” It was like Newton comprehending gravity for the first time, quite the revelation, you could see the 40 watt bulb blink on over his head. So we top out (as it were) and rap off, by now I’ve led all the pitches and rigged the rappels so at the bottom he starts wetting himself that it’s getting dark, imagine it getting dark in the winter(!), so off the little sod goes leaving me with the ropes. I finally caught up with him down near tree-line, I was ready to bludgeon the guy and leave him for the crows… (Pretty hilarious in retrospect, I never did find that hooker, but I did spot the glove down the slope a ways.)
Still, I can’t wait to send it leashless. Whether it forms or not this year remains to be seen. I’m not convinced that snow on Broadway is what does the trick, perhaps water percolating down through the massif itself is the real source of the Smear. While we are having a wet year the preceding years have been drought, I’m curious to see if the smear pops out of the lower east face or not this fall.
Yesterday it must have snowed quite hard up in the park as it rained hard all morning and then throughout the day at my place. Some of the routes people have described being on recently in the Park are more freeze/thaw routes for Spring, I wouldn’t expect them to have any ice in them now (e.g., Meeker). I am certain there will be stuff to climb after this storm clears, just bring the rock gear and be ready to dry tool. Snow, then a few warm, sunny days to work on all that fresh snow, drip, drip, drip, and down into the twenties at night. Personally I’m always up for climbing, anything, mixed, ice, cold rock, as long as it’s steep and involves ice tools.
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sharpie
Oct 7, 2004, 6:54 AM
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OK, now that I can see clearly, this cam is not on top of the peak, it is looking directly at the Diamond and the north face. This is Awesome!
http://www.nps.gov/romo/images/netcam.jpg
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mother_sheep
Oct 7, 2004, 6:58 AM
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HOLY crap! It looks so beautiful up there right now.
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timd
Oct 8, 2004, 6:13 PM
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I HAVE THE FEVER, HERE IN A FEW WEEKS OURAY WILL START TO COME IN AS WELL AS RIFLE MOUNTAIN PARK. I HEAR REDSTONE AND CARBONDALE ARE PRETTY GOOD SPOTS. I PERSONALLY HAVE NOT CLIMED IN THESE TWO AREAS BUT WHAT THE HELL, IF IT'S COLD ENOUGH TO STICK A PICK INTO I'LL TRY IT. I'LL LET YOU ALL KNOW HOW THE ICE IS UP HERE
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timstich
Oct 9, 2004, 11:13 AM
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In reply to: I HAVE THE FEVER...
HELLO BURT BRONSON. NICE TO SEE YOU BACK. OR ARE YOU BURT BRONSON, JR.? A CHIP OFF THE OLD BLOCK I SEE.
And now for something completely different. Sharpie (Aaron) and Tim Sharp should be summitting Longs Peak via Notch Couloir about now, Saturday at noon. I see by the cool park webcam that they have clear skies and sun. Looks like some deep, new snow, so we'll hear about conditions when they return or if they had to bail. Deep, loose snow routed a party on Darkstar last weekend, of course. Looking forward to hearing about the climb.
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sharpie
Oct 11, 2004, 8:35 PM
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Conditions were near ideal and the weather was on our side, unfortunately Timmo reaggriavted an ankle injury he had suffered the week before and we had to back off Lamb’s Slide near Alexander’s.
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pheenixx
Oct 11, 2004, 11:14 PM
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In reply to: ...but I thought it would be cool to get an ice/snow climbing partners thread going. My ice partner seems to have fallen off the planet so I have none now. I need one! I currently climb WI4 without flailing. I'm interested in trying alpine ice this year and leading WI3. Anyone else looking for ice/snow partners, post here so I can bombard you with PMs. Okay, so if you don't like me, post here anyway so someone else can bombard you. It's a good thing, really. :-) I know this is a little premature since the ice hasn't formed but hey, some of us are EXCITED!!!!!!
I can't read the rest of this forum because our site seems to be spewing code -- but
HEY... I'M EXCITED too...and I want to throw my Hell-Mutt into the ring and say "I'm interested" in ice/snow partners this winter. Put me down for a WI3 -- WI4+... :wink:
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sharpie
Oct 12, 2004, 7:27 AM
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They got ice in AZ :?: :?: :lol:
You should hook up with Reno, he's a displaced Pheonix ice climber...maybe you two could road trip this winter...
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pheenixx
Oct 12, 2004, 9:35 AM
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In reply to: They got ice in AZ :?: :?: :lol:
Yeah, at the Circle "K"... :lol:
In reply to: You should hook up with Reno, he's a displaced Pheonix ice climber...maybe you two could road trip this winter...
Our schedules usually don't coincide -- and he never wants to bring the sheep... :twisted: but thanks for the suggestn. Sharpie - I know its a diff post but when are you arriving at the Ice fest..??
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sharpie
Oct 12, 2004, 12:29 PM
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Probably Monday night...
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sharpie
Oct 12, 2004, 12:33 PM
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In reply to: Conditions were near ideal and the weather was on our side, unfortunately Timmo reaggriavted an ankle injury he had suffered the week before and we had to back off Lamb’s Slide near Alexander’s.
Here is a look at the conditions in the Notch last sunday (10-8):
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=41475
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timstich
Oct 12, 2004, 6:39 PM
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Now that's a cool current conditions report. Bada bing.
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mother_sheep
Oct 18, 2004, 7:34 AM
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So did anyone get out on ice this weekend? I DID!!!! Got in 8 runs yesterday. Granted in was on only 2 routes but still, the climbing was comperable to $ex!!!! And the ice wasn't even at it's best!!!!
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sharpie
Oct 18, 2004, 9:43 AM
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Ice in October??? I don't believe you...
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mother_sheep
Oct 18, 2004, 9:56 AM
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In reply to: Ice in October??? I don't believe you...
Hmmmm. . .perhaps it was all just a dream. A very nice wonderful dream. Hmmmmmmmmm . . .
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mickymac1
Oct 18, 2004, 10:01 AM
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In reply to: So did anyone get out on ice this weekend? I DID!!!! Got in 8 runs yesterday. Granted in was on only 2 routes but still, the climbing was comperable to $ex!!!! And the ice wasn't even at it's best!!!!
8 runs? Were we skiing or ice climbing? I know Loveland ski area opened this past weekend but haven't heard of any others opening.
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mother_sheep
Oct 18, 2004, 10:05 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: So did anyone get out on ice this weekend? I DID!!!! Got in 8 runs yesterday. Granted in was on only 2 routes but still, the climbing was comperable to $ex!!!! And the ice wasn't even at it's best!!!! 8 runs? Were we skiing or ice climbing? I know Loveland ski area opened this past weekend but haven't heard of any others opening.
poke poke. . .kick kick. . .crackle. . .poke kick poke kick. . .CRASH. . .poke poke. . .kick kick. . ."THAT WAS AWESOMMMMMMEEEEEEEE!"
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mickymac1
Oct 18, 2004, 10:08 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: So did anyone get out on ice this weekend? I DID!!!! Got in 8 runs yesterday. Granted in was on only 2 routes but still, the climbing was comperable to $ex!!!! And the ice wasn't even at it's best!!!! 8 runs? Were we skiing or ice climbing? I know Loveland ski area opened this past weekend but haven't heard of any others opening. poke poke. . .kick kick. . .crackle. . .poke kick poke kick. . .CRASH. . .poke poke. . .kick kick. . ."THAT WAS AWESOMMMMMMEEEEEEEE!"
Oh sh1t!! I just got a twinge you know where reading that!! :shock: Where did you go? What routes?
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sharpie
Oct 18, 2004, 10:55 AM
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There is NO ice..I repeat there is no ice...mother_sheep is pulling the wool over your eyes ( :lol: ). Do not believe anything this woman says. Don't waste you last few valuable sunny weeks of rock climbiung looking for the fabled, pie in the sky, ice...
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mother_sheep
Oct 18, 2004, 11:14 AM
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In reply to: There is NO ice..I repeat there is no ice...mother_sheep is pulling the wool over your eyes ( :lol: ). Do not believe anything this woman says. Don't waste you last few valuable sunny weeks of rock climbiung looking for the fabled, pie in the sky, ice...
Yeah. . .what he said! It was all a dream I tell you. And it lasted for about 6 hours. A 6 hour dream. Oh yeah, there was a bit of hooking and some manteling in this dream as well. Oh and another thing. . .bootie. Oh and it was VERY VERY WET!!! A very very wet dream indeed.
DOH!!!
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sandbag
Oct 18, 2004, 11:21 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: There is NO ice..I repeat there is no ice...mother_sheep is pulling the wool over your eyes ( :lol: ). Do not believe anything this woman says. Don't waste you last few valuable sunny weeks of rock climbiung looking for the fabled, pie in the sky, ice... Yeah. . .what he said! It was all a dream I tell you. And it lasted for about 6 hours. A 6 hour dream. Oh yeah, there was a bit of hooking and some manteling in this dream as well. Oh and another thing. . .bootie. Oh and it was VERY VERY WET!!! A very very wet dream indeed. DOH!!!
Dammit, i wish i had dreams, i gotta stop working sooo much.....
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mickymac1
Oct 18, 2004, 12:04 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: There is NO ice..I repeat there is no ice...mother_sheep is pulling the wool over your eyes ( :lol: ). Do not believe anything this woman says. Don't waste you last few valuable sunny weeks of rock climbiung looking for the fabled, pie in the sky, ice... Yeah. . .what he said! It was all a dream I tell you. And it lasted for about 6 hours. A 6 hour dream. Oh yeah, there was a bit of hooking and some manteling in this dream as well. Oh and another thing. . .bootie. Oh and it was VERY VERY WET!!! A very very wet dream indeed. DOH!!!
Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhh I think I need a cigarette and I don't even smoke. Was it as good for you as it was for me? :wink: :lol:
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timstich
Oct 18, 2004, 12:32 PM
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Marketa and I parked up at Loveland Pass and walked over the newish snow to the 12585 summit to the west. There's a cool basin to the left full of snow that some snowboarders were doing small jumps on. The snow isn't that firm, so we had limited glissading. But it was fun none the less.
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mother_sheep
Oct 18, 2004, 1:49 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: There is NO ice..I repeat there is no ice...mother_sheep is pulling the wool over your eyes ( :lol: ). Do not believe anything this woman says. Don't waste you last few valuable sunny weeks of rock climbiung looking for the fabled, pie in the sky, ice... Yeah. . .what he said! It was all a dream I tell you. And it lasted for about 6 hours. A 6 hour dream. Oh yeah, there was a bit of hooking and some manteling in this dream as well. Oh and another thing. . .bootie. Oh and it was VERY VERY WET!!! A very very wet dream indeed. DOH!!! Ohhhhhhhhhhhhhhh I think I need a cigarette and I don't even smoke. Was it as good for you as it was for me? :wink: :lol:
Even better baybeeeee!!!
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timstich
Oct 20, 2004, 8:37 AM
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Thread bump.
Marketa got some mountaineering boots and gaitors last night. Yay! She got the Montrail Morraine, which I think Tracey also has. Seems to be a good fit, but we'll see in time. You can even climb vertical ice in those since dey gots da full shank and heel welt.
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mother_sheep
Oct 20, 2004, 8:38 AM
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Cool Tim! I hope they don't hurt her feet like mine do! I climbed vertical ice in mine several times and they work just fine!
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timstich
Oct 20, 2004, 8:58 AM
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In reply to: Cool Tim! I hope they don't hurt her feet like mine do!
Your boots are a little too small, right? She went with a half size bigger so her toes wouldn't hit the toe box.
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mother_sheep
Oct 20, 2004, 9:03 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Cool Tim! I hope they don't hurt her feet like mine do! Your boots are a little too small, right? She went with a half size bigger so her toes wouldn't hit the toe box.
Length is good but they are a little too tight pushing downward on top of my toes I think. After a few hours in them or a few miles of hiking in them my feet feel like needles are being driven into my toes. I’ll be getting new boots this year.
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darkside
Oct 20, 2004, 9:33 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Cool Tim! I hope they don't hurt her feet like mine do! Your boots are a little too small, right? She went with a half size bigger so her toes wouldn't hit the toe box. Length is good but they are a little too tight pushing downward on top of my toes I think. After a few hours in them or a few miles of hiking in them my feet feel like needles are being driven into my toes. I’ll be getting new boots this year.
So when would be the best time to visit the Boulder area for water ice? and any suggestions for areas/routes? I would like to make a week trip to Colorado for ice.
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pheenixx
Oct 20, 2004, 11:31 PM
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In reply to: I think that feeling is more a result of stiff soles. Stiff soles make a good platform to front-point on but really suck for the long approaches. I figure it is something to do with the unnatural way your toes cannot bend as you walk. Different boots may work but alternating days between long approaches and short approaches is cheaper.
Gaads - mother_sheep and all of you guys are TOO FUNNY...
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
I hope your all going to Ouray this year... :wink: THERE IS ICE THERE..!! ..or there will be ~ NO-FOOLIN'...!
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sharpie
Oct 21, 2004, 7:18 AM
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Grant-
Don't waste you time in Denver/Boulder for ice. Go to Ouray, Cody, Vail, Estes or Rifle...
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timd
Oct 27, 2004, 10:12 PM
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Ya, come to Rifle (not yet, no !@#$%^ ice). Ouray should be in soon. Has anyone heard about the ice conditions along the I-70 corridor. Oh and by the way, who the heck is Burt Bronson?
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mother_sheep
Oct 28, 2004, 7:18 AM
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We checked Silver Plume yesterday and there was absolutely nothing there. Not even a little icesicle. So we decided not to check anywhere else off of I-70 because we figured it would be the same. But I am curious if the Shroud at Officer's Gulch has anything on it yet.
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zozo
Oct 28, 2004, 9:18 AM
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Ok so Im all set with the gear - so now what do I do?
Anyone feel like taking a ice virgin out a few times? Id like to go a few times before Ouray just to see what it's all about.
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llama
Oct 29, 2004, 3:16 PM
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Need and ice partner for the early season, mine is stuck renovating his house. :cry: I'd like to get out to Lincoln next week maybe.
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timd
Oct 29, 2004, 7:14 PM
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That is a drag, I was going to head down to silverplume this weekend and check it out. I guess I'll make other plans. Maybe RMNP or some where along those lines. If I don't find some ice soon I'll just spray down the side of the house
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mother_sheep
Nov 1, 2004, 7:21 AM
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Soooooooo. . . did anyone make it out into the Park this weekend. I'm curious about Black Lake ice.
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timd
Nov 4, 2004, 9:09 PM
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I just got the beta for the park. NO ICE!!!. I'm still going this weekend just cuz I need to see for myself. Let you know.
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mother_sheep
Nov 5, 2004, 8:00 AM
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In reply to: I just got the beta for the park. NO ICE!!!. I'm still going this weekend just cuz I need to see for myself. Let you know.
Grrrr! That's crazy. My partner and I may be up there as well on Sunday. Either there or up on James Peak. Anyone know how the cornice is doing up on Super Star Couloir?
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mother_sheep
Nov 5, 2004, 8:03 AM
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In reply to: I just got the beta for the park. NO ICE!!!. I'm still going this weekend just cuz I need to see for myself. Let you know.
In reply to: I just got the beta for the park. NO ICE!!!. I'm still going this weekend just cuz I need to see for myself. Let you know.
Grrrr! That's crazy. There has to be ice!!! My partner and I may be up there as well on Sunday. Either there or up on James Peak. Anyone know how the cornice is doing up on Super Star Couloir?
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mjroche
Nov 5, 2004, 8:59 AM
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No info on the cornice. But, if you're doing that route, remember, you don't go up through the cornice, you bail left onto the rock. Not that that helps if the cornice cuts loose while you're on the route
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mbg
Nov 5, 2004, 9:37 AM
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Enough snow has fallen in the Front Range for avalanches to be a problem. Backcountry skiers have already triggered a slide or two on Berthoud Pass and two Montana climbers were recently killed when they were swept over cliffs on the Sphinx. Early season slides can be especially deadly since they are usually unexpected and the entire snowpack has the potential to go if there is not good adhesion to the ground. Be careful about heading up couloirs, especially if the top has been getting loaded and I’d guess that the Super Star cornice has been building with the howling winds we’ve had this last week.
Have fun and be safe. :)
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mbg
Nov 5, 2004, 9:38 AM
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Enough snow has fallen in the Front Range for avalanches to be a problem. Backcountry skiers have already triggered a slide or two on Berthoud Pass and two Montana climbers were recently killed when they were swept over cliffs on the Sphinx. Early season slides can be especially deadly since they are usually unexpected and the entire snowpack has the potential to go if there is not good adhesion to the ground. Be careful about heading up couloirs, especially if the top has been getting loaded and I’d guess that the Super Star cornice has been building with the howling winds we’ve had this last week.
Have fun and be safe. :)
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mother_sheep
Nov 5, 2004, 9:51 AM
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In reply to: Enough snow has fallen in the Front Range for avalanches to be a problem. Backcountry skiers have already triggered a slide or two on Berthoud Pass and two Montana climbers were recently killed when they were swept over cliffs on the Sphinx. Early season slides can be especially deadly since they are usually unexpected and the entire snowpack has the potential to go if there is not good adhesion to the ground. Be careful about heading up couloirs, especially if the top has been getting loaded and I’d guess that the Super Star cornice has been building with the howling winds we’ve had this last week. Have fun and be safe. :)
Yeah, I'm not looking to get myself killed or do anything stoopid. But I am looking for some adventure. We'll assess the conditions carefully before we make any decisions.
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clymber
Nov 7, 2004, 3:24 PM
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anyone out there willing to take a newbie out on some ice...i have all the gear and less brains i think but still willing to go...i live in golden and can go during the week if i get a days notice
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timd
Nov 8, 2004, 7:20 PM
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I have new beta on the park, Red MountainPass and Rifle Mountain Park. Ouray is very thin. There are a few possibilities around the School room area. Beware of the upper bridge (lead area). It is very bony and large (volkswagon) size slabs were falling into the bottom of the gorge. Up Red Mountain Pass the ice looks better. There seem to be a lot of lines forming along the right side of the highway. And as for Rifle Mountain Park, it is bony as well with slabs coming off. I will keep you posted.
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mbg
Dec 2, 2004, 10:37 AM
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:D
I hijacked this from cb.com:
Heard this through the grapevine...
"...were at EMS on Sunday and there is a petition concerning farming Boulder Canyon for ice climbing. I talked to the gal at the checkout and she said the City of Boulder is willing to install several spickets where the falls are currently as well as across the road just east of Castle Rock. I don't know if the petition is at Neptune's or not, but if you get a chance please stop by and sign the petition. It would be great if the City of Boulder would all Boulder Canyon to become a mini-Ouray.
- Ben Mottinger
[end]
I head rumors of this happening a while ago but it sounds like the ball might actually be rolling. If Ben's grapevine speaks the truth and if you're tired of the schwag foothills ice that we've seen over the last few years, get your ink on the paper and hopefully we won't have to drive half a day for farmed ice anymore!
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mother_sheep
Dec 2, 2004, 12:28 PM
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KEWL!!! Did anyone else hear rumors of a proposed ice park in Idaho Springs?
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sharpie
Dec 2, 2004, 1:15 PM
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Both are true and in the works. Idaho Springs is currently farming ice on the wall behind the wheel, although the official rule for liability reasons is still "do not climb", rumor has it that there will be no penalty or fine if it is climbed. The city of IS is/was behind the initiative to develop an ice park, but it has been delayed in favor of some sort of "Scandinavian Christmas Village" or something similar to that, that the city council believes will bring more revenue to the town. There would be approximately 30-35 routes and may be partially sponsored/supported by Tommy Knockers. If you decide to take the chance and climb it please remember that you are representing the entire ice climbing community: if town authorities ask you to stop please do, and there is a housing development above the falls so please keep a low profile when at the top.
The BC ice climbing initiative is currently in a petition phase and the petition can be signed at EMS, Neptunes and other outdoor shops in Boulder County.
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killclimbz
Dec 2, 2004, 1:27 PM
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The ice is already pretty fat at Idaho Springs. Sharpie is probably more up on the news, but last I heard that if it was going to open it would be at the first of the year. Supposedly one of the big things blocking it was that some were worried that there would be a rash of wrecks and slow downs on I70 from gawkers. Well of course there would be, but it would subside after it became part of the 70 experience.
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sharpie
Dec 2, 2004, 1:36 PM
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That concern had been discussed and eschewed to some extent; the town apparently liked the idea of the I70 attention and felt that it would probably encourage people to get off in IS.
The major hold up, as I understand it, is the construction of a bridge from the "viewing area" to the base of the climb on the other side of the creek. The funds to build the bridge, and then ancillary expenses like supplemental insurance for the town, building anchors and perhaps some sort of small walkway at the top, have been redirected to the other town "project" I mentioned.
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mbg
Dec 2, 2004, 1:40 PM
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Edit: I see you guys type faster than I do ^ :wink:
I'm not sure if “commercial” climbing at the Idaho Springs ice is such a good idea. Can you imagine the gapers' blocks and accidents that would ensue on an already busy section of I-70 if there were hordes of people swinging their tools up there? Plus, the idea of climbing 200 ft. from a crowded interstate doesn't really sound that attractive.
Do you know who owns the land around the waterwheel?
I’m all for expanding our backyard ice options and with the success of Ouray it’s surprising that nothing around here has been developed yet. Idaho Springs just doesn’t seem like the best place for it; there are other, more low-profile locations in the Denver area that have more options for routes.
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sandbag
Dec 2, 2004, 2:05 PM
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sorry if i sound obtuse, but what the hell ever happened to the sense of adventure and discovery by trekking around and searching for frozen waterfalls? I think Ice farming is a way to bring the noob/goob factor way up and crowds, so have at it. ill continue to go hike 4-10 miles and ice boulder or solo stuff unless i find people that still want to foray into the back country....
:roll:
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killclimbz
Dec 2, 2004, 2:12 PM
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In reply to: sorry if i sound obtuse, but what the hell ever happened to the sense of adventure and discovery by trekking around and searching for frozen waterfalls? I think Ice farming is a way to bring the noob/goob factor way up and crowds, so have at it. ill continue to go hike 4-10 miles and ice boulder or solo stuff unless i find people that still want to foray into the back country.... :roll:
I agree with you. There is nothing wrong with that. I prefer climbing and snowboarding at areas that don't see as much traffic. I think the Idaho Springs icepark is a great idea. At the very least it'll offer an alternative to other popular areas for people to go to. Idaho Springs would certainly benefit from the traffic. No matter how popular backcountry riding gets, I'll still hike 3-4 hours for one huge run down one of my powder stashes, that will probably only see 3 or 4 descents if any all season. You go with your bad self 8^)
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sharpie
Dec 2, 2004, 2:17 PM
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It would probably cut the traffic Lincoln & Ten Mile see in half or more...that would be enough for me to support it.
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sharpie
Dec 2, 2004, 2:19 PM
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In reply to: ill continue to go hike 4-10 miles and ice boulder or solo stuff
You're fucking hard core man... :lol:
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sandbag
Dec 2, 2004, 4:54 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: ill continue to go hike 4-10 miles and ice boulder or solo stuff You're f---ing hard core man... :lol:
yeah, about as hard core as a No.2 Pencil Lead
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pebbleman
Dec 3, 2004, 5:57 AM
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An ice park in Idaho Springs? I like it... Time to get the drill out.
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legion
Dec 3, 2004, 8:28 AM
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Looking for an ice partner for Sunday.
Would like to go to Loch Vale. PM or email me!!!
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timstich
Dec 5, 2004, 2:50 PM
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On a lark, I drove up to St. Mary's Glacier today. Man, there was a huge white mass covering the Continental Divide that oozed over into the Front Range. Oddly enough, though, it didn't extend much beyond that. So it was sunny driving up and parking. Hiking up to the moraine lake was windy and partly cloudy. Once at the glacier, you could see this howling windstorm of snow and cloud pouring down the gulley above the glacier. It would whiteout for a few seconds at a time and generally was hard to stand in. Some backcountry skiiers in front of me bailed. I hiked up a bit and then finally decided to get out of the wind. I dug a small snow cave for grins and waited a bit, but the storm didn't abate. Of course, now I'm back in full sun down in Wheat Ridge. Far out, man.
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killclimbz
Dec 5, 2004, 2:53 PM
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In reply to: On a lark, I drove up to St. Mary's Glacier today. Man, there was a huge white mass covering the Continental Divide that oozed over into the Front Range. Oddly enough, though, it didn't extend much beyond that. So it was sunny driving up and parking. Hiking up to the moraine lake was windy and partly cloudy. Once at the glacier, you could see this howling windstorm of snow and cloud pouring down the gulley above the glacier. It would whiteout for a few seconds at a time and generally was hard to stand in. Some backcountry skiiers in front of me bailed. I hiked up a bit and then finally decided to get out of the wind. I dug a small snow cave for grins and waited a bit, but the storm didn't abate. Of course, now I'm back in full sun down in Wheat Ridge. Far out, man.
Sounds like a typical Colorado day. 8^)
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timstich
Dec 5, 2004, 3:06 PM
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Anyone else up in the mountains today on Sunday? I was curious to see how far this snow storm extended. The snowfall was pretty light, but the wind was pretty strong. Driving back down 6 I saw plenty of ice in Clear Creek Canyon and not one person climbing it. There was full sun on Highlander and one party that I could see. Wish I had headed there instead!
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dickhurtz
Dec 6, 2004, 7:16 AM
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I took a ride on Sunday as well and I'll be honest, the ice dosen't look very good. I wouldn't climb that crap right now. :( Maybe in a few weeks.
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mother_sheep
Dec 6, 2004, 7:27 AM
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In reply to: I took a ride on Sunday as well and I'll be honest, the ice dosen't look very good. I wouldn't climb that crap right now. :( Maybe in a few weeks.
Where? Ice is getting better and better by the day all over the Front Range. CCC is nice and iced. Lots of stuff forming on the I-70 corridor really well. Where is Holden???
Tim,
zozo, myself and my friend Michael were up in the mountians yesterday. We were standing atop Bierstadt before most people even had their breakfast. The temps from about 13k' and up were about 20 below zero and the wind was whipping. As we were descending, the snow began to fall but it looks like it never made its way to Denver.
Here is what it looked like on the summit:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=44866
Photo by zozo.
I forgot goggles and my eyes were literally gouped up w/ice. fun!
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timd
Dec 6, 2004, 7:02 PM
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Me and the missus climbed Hayes Creek Falls yesterday, it was Fat! Rifle is coming in pretty good, I'll hit that tomorrow before work. Glad to hear I-70 is coming in. Anbody care to join us this next weekend in Redstone or Marble?
Tim
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mbg
Dec 7, 2004, 9:24 AM
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Thanks for the report!
My wife and I are going to try and get up there after the hollidays to see some friends and swing the tools. Do you know what kind of shape the Avocado Gully and Marble Falls are in?
Thanks,
BG
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timd
Dec 7, 2004, 5:26 PM
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Not sure about Avocado Gully, but I was told by some guys at Hayes that Marble is coming in pretty good but still translucent in areas. I'm going to wait a couple of weeks and check it out then. 'll keep the reprts coming.
Climb on,
Tim
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fire_or_retire
Dec 9, 2004, 9:45 PM
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Hey I just moved to Boulder from Gunnison this summer and am looking for anyone to climb some ice with. I've mostly done toproping in Ouray and around Gunnison. I haven't led anything above WI2. I've climbed some easier routes in the park dreamweaver, lambslide and others. I'm just looking for anyone who wants to go to some crags but don't mind hooking up with some burl master and following them up some gnarly stuff. Either way if you're looking for some one to climb with give me a shout. Chris
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sharpie
Dec 10, 2004, 4:24 PM
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Congrats to mother_sheep, she lead on ice today for the first time. Four pitches of WI3, all in good style.
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flamer
Dec 10, 2004, 4:42 PM
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HaHa!!! Who's that on the left wearing the "Texas Gore-Tex"????
Remember kids....cotton kills!!
I'm starting to think about climbing again(not that I ever really stop!)....Ice sounds like fun....
Hmmmmmm.....
josh
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timstich
Dec 10, 2004, 8:14 PM
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Nice! Finally, some good pictures of friends ice climbing. Have a good day at Shelf tomorrow. I'll be in Eldo enjoying the good weather.
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redpointron
Dec 11, 2004, 4:20 PM
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sheep and sharpie...
those pictures are really great but i must say that you are off the christmas list. anybody that can do that on any given sunday does NOT need anything under the tree. :wink:
nice leads.
r.r.
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zozo
Dec 13, 2004, 5:27 AM
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So in a way ice climbing is like sex.....now that ive done it once i'd kinda like to do it again....and again and again and again.
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mother_sheep
Dec 13, 2004, 7:01 AM
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So I guess you could say that I popped your cherry Zozo!
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sharpie
Dec 13, 2004, 9:08 AM
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In reply to: So I guess you could say that I popped your cherry Zozo!
I think Dave prefers the term "deflowered"...
In reply to: Congrats to mother_sheep, she lead on ice today for the first time.
Oh...and I guess you could say that I popped yours.... :wink:
Lots of "first times" this weekend. Nice work Dave, welcome to the addiction.
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mother_sheep
Dec 13, 2004, 9:43 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: So I guess you could say that I popped your cherry Zozo! I think Dave prefers the term "deflowered"... In reply to: Congrats to mother_sheep, she lead on ice today for the first time. Oh...and I guess you could say that I popped yours.... :wink: Lots of "first times" this weekend. Nice work Dave, welcome to the addiction.
Actually, Geo popped my cherry.
Aaron popped my lead cherry (1st time I was on top).
And yesterday I was on top all morning as I deflowered Dave for hours and then while he was doing his own dealea-o I decided to master. . . . (I went solo).
I feel so dirty.
DOH!
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sharpie
Dec 13, 2004, 9:51 AM
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(loosens collar)....is it just me or is all of the ice melting...???
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zozo
Dec 13, 2004, 10:07 AM
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In reply to: And yesterday I was on top all morning as I deflowered Dave for hours
You would think I would remember something like that? They say the mind is the first thing to go.
How was I? I think you said my techniques was flawless.
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sandbag
Dec 14, 2004, 12:07 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: And yesterday I was on top all morning as I deflowered Dave for hours You would think I would remember something like that? They say the mind is the first thing to go. How was I? I think you said my techniques was flawless.
I think thats "leashless" buddy..... ;)
:P
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mother_sheep
Dec 16, 2004, 11:19 AM
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Does anyone know if the ice out at Black Lake is worth the hike? I've received conflicting information. If you've been out there lately, please respond. Thank you!
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flamer
Dec 18, 2004, 4:15 PM
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Got my first ice of the year in today....Hernia be damned!!
Enjoyed it- but I would rather see it all melt and have the lazy days of summer back, rock is so much better....
josh
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mother_sheep
Dec 20, 2004, 7:19 AM
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Cool Josh.
We climbed Loch Vale again on Sunday. Everything is a grade or so easier since its so hacked up. You can hook your way up most of the routes. Nonetheless, it was great being in the Park for some more practice.
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flamer
Dec 20, 2004, 6:55 PM
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Climbed ice in vail today....fun...but still thinking about rock....
josh
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zozo
Dec 21, 2004, 1:33 PM
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I want to climb ice on sunday!! Yes I do. Sharpie? MJ? Flamer? Larry, Sheep if the plans go south?
Forgot I have Friday off to!! Weeeeeee
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zozo
Dec 22, 2004, 8:57 AM
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Anyone want to hit something friday?
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mjroche
Dec 22, 2004, 9:42 AM
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Zozo: I figured you'd still be sick after watching the Broncos game instead of climbing on Sunday. Glad you're feeling better. Friday is out for me (family in town and all), but how does Jan 8 look for you? Or maybe even tonight at the gym if you're game?
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zozo
Dec 22, 2004, 9:49 AM
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Hey Mike - Patriots fan here but Im sick from watching them to!! Im a working stiff here in the springs again and wont be making it up to R&J much anymore.
Dont see anything on the 8th so I put you in the calendar. Do you have any ice screws? I would lead anything at Silver Plume.
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mjroche
Dec 22, 2004, 10:48 AM
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I thought you were moving up here one of these days. As for the 8th, I can probably get my hands on some screws, so let's keep the 8th on the books.
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zozo
Dec 23, 2004, 6:16 AM
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Was going to but I landed a job down here. Going to see how it plays out.
Can anybody get away for anything tommorow?
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mjroche
Dec 23, 2004, 9:06 AM
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Dave: Glad to hear about the job down there, but sorry you won't be commuting up here much anymore. by the way, I forgot if you needed to borrow any gear for Ouray in January. If you still do let me know, MJR
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mother_sheep
Dec 24, 2004, 9:31 AM
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Registered: Jul 18, 2002
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Sharpie and I hit Fishcreek in Steamboat yesterday. It was a whopping 5 degrees outside. The ice was okay. The steeper ice in the center was still very thin. No chance og getting a screw in there. Pretty doubtful that it would hold you either if you try to step on it. The right and left sides of the falls are in. Both sides are very easy, 3- at best (more leading for me!!!). The approach is cake too. So if you're in the area it's worth a visit. It will really be awesome once the center of the falls if frozen.
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darkside
Dec 28, 2004, 6:57 AM
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Registered: Sep 14, 2001
Posts: 1672
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CO is a GO
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
Can you tell I'm looking forward to it :roll:
Anyway will be in the Boulder/Denver area next week for some ice climbing and looking to hook up with someone each day. I fly in on the 4th January and out on the 13th and will be based at Ambers place. She wants me to pop her ice cherry but doesn't think she will want to climb many days (Oh how little she understands the cold side :twisted: ).
I will be down in the Adirondacks for the next few days though and I won't have internet access so please don't be offended by no immediate reply. I have all my own lead gear and happily lead up to W4 but above that makes me not so happy on lead :shock: or very happy to second. I would be more than happy to second the Fang for someone or other W5's. Hell if I like the look of them I may even be tempted to try leading one (Doh... what did I just say :? )
Send me a PM if you have a chance to climb between the 4th and 13th thanks. I'm looking forward to meeting some of the CO crew of RC.com.
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mother_sheep
Dec 28, 2004, 7:08 AM
Post #163 of 327
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Registered: Jul 18, 2002
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Hit night ice in Clear Creek Canyon last night. It was surprisingly good. The ice was in pretty good shape in spite of the warm temps during the day. Kudos to the ice farmers out there (you know who you are)! You're doing a great job!!!!
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timd
Dec 28, 2004, 6:25 PM
Post #164 of 327
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Registered: Dec 21, 2003
Posts: 862
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Hey Mother sheep, I am so glad you and Sharpie got up here. Fish creek falls is a great place to learn to lead. Did you two enjoy the scenery? I know it's nothing compared to RMNP but it's still beautiful. Hope to have you guys back up in the area soon
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flynbrian
Dec 28, 2004, 6:39 PM
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Registered: Apr 30, 2004
Posts: 76
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thank-you thank-you very much.....
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mickymac1
Dec 28, 2004, 7:28 PM
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Registered: Sep 5, 2002
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In reply to: thank-you thank-you very much.....
Elvis is in the building!!
I may be up for some of this nite ice climbing after Ouray!! :D
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mother_sheep
Dec 29, 2004, 2:23 PM
Post #167 of 327
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Registered: Jul 18, 2002
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In reply to: Hey Mother sheep, I am so glad you and Sharpie got up here. Fish creek falls is a great place to learn to lead. Did you two enjoy the scenery? I know it's nothing compared to RMNP but it's still beautiful. Hope to have you guys back up in the area soon
Hey Tim! Yeah, it was pretty. It was pretty cloudy so we really couldn't see much. But it was a fun trip out for sure.
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mother_sheep
Jan 2, 2005, 6:00 PM
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Moffat Tunnel ice is in. The commonly known area is pretty solid. Hero ice on the left side is all wet but still climbable. More routes exist up there. While in the parking lot, look right up the hill past the tunnel. 2 sections are in, one of which goes at about 40' of WI4. The other area further down, we did not try but from what we could see, it looks fun. Short routes with no people. I knocked off a microwave size block off the WI4 route but some loose stuff is still up there. CAREFUL! So glad I wasn't leading it (I was going to) and really glad my partner was not below me.
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killclimbz
Jan 3, 2005, 7:59 AM
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Registered: May 6, 2000
Posts: 1964
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I've been down riding Backcountry on Wolf Creek Pass, Treasure falls on the west side is really fat. Looks like a great ICE route. Not sure how tall it is, but it looked like a couple of pitches.
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timd
Jan 3, 2005, 10:29 PM
Post #170 of 327
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Registered: Dec 21, 2003
Posts: 862
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How is Silverplume looking? Is my new 59 meter rope long enough? I want to head down that way this next weekend.
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mother_sheep
Jan 3, 2005, 10:57 PM
Post #171 of 327
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Registered: Jul 18, 2002
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In reply to: How is Silverplume looking? Is my new 59 meter rope long enough? I want to head down that way this next weekend.
Silverplume is in and yeah, a 59m rope will suffice. 59? :lol:
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timd
Jan 4, 2005, 4:02 AM
Post #172 of 327
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Registered: Dec 21, 2003
Posts: 862
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Yeah! my other post explains the tragic events of that day. Thanx Mother Sheep!
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cire
Jan 4, 2005, 11:23 AM
Post #173 of 327
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Registered: Nov 20, 2003
Posts: 41
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Jan 14,15 16 Ourray or south utah
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jason_himick
Jan 5, 2005, 10:06 AM
Post #174 of 327
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Registered: Jan 5, 2005
Posts: 7
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Looking for a partner for ice climbing/mountaineering, weekend day trips in and around the Roaring Fork Valley. I can lead WI3 and follow 4, and most likely 5 once I get in climbing shape.
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timd
Jan 7, 2005, 9:25 PM
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Registered: Dec 21, 2003
Posts: 862
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