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Colorado Ice/Snow Partners Ongoing Thread
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kid


Sep 21, 2004, 5:38 PM
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To far from Colorado but snow line has dropped to 6500ft here in Montana and the weather has remained cold. The going to the sun road in Glacier Park was closed a couple days ago due to winter conditions. I am thinking three weeks for mixed alpine if the weather holds like this. I am sure BC is getting the same temps possibly lower snow line up north. See ice threads for Canadiane Rockies. I wish you guys were up north. Mother Sheep - thanks for the info on kids and climbing - I took my 4yr old climbing the other day and he had a blast. Although my helmet was a bit big for the little guy. Good intro for next year. Climbers always welcome in Whitefish MT. ~ Climb on... Greg F


mother_sheep


Sep 22, 2004, 7:27 AM
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To far from Colorado but snow line has dropped to 6500ft here in Montana and the weather has remained cold. The going to the sun road in Glacier Park was closed a couple days ago due to winter conditions. I am thinking three weeks for mixed alpine if the weather holds like this. I am sure BC is getting the same temps possibly lower snow line up north. See ice threads for Canadiane Rockies. I wish you guys were up north. Mother Sheep - thanks for the info on kids and climbing - I took my 4yr old climbing the other day and he had a blast. Although my helmet was a bit big for the little guy. Good intro for next year. Climbers always welcome in Whitefish MT. ~ Climb on... Greg F

Any time Greg! Glad it worked out for you!


pebbleman


Sep 23, 2004, 6:52 AM
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Yes of course, the expense... Boot s are probably your first acquisition, LaSportiva makes several wome's models, top dollar though. Neptune has sale boots often in small sizes, you can rent to own there as well. The Black Diamond web-site has clearance on Scarpas at present, these are very good boots, get an insulated model. Crampons would be next, and a good down jacket or you'll freeze your arse off and hate it. Decent gloves too. Tools are last, you can always borrow tools, especially leashless. Start with the pullups now! (My tomatoes nearly froze this morning, so that means it is underway.)


wanderinfree


Sep 23, 2004, 9:01 AM
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SWEET! I tried ice climbing for the first time this past winter. One of the perks of having a friend who's an ice climbing guide up in Lake Placid, NY. Absolutely loved it. So count me in this year!

Again....who wouldn't move to Colorado? Rock and ice to climb, and snow to board. What a miserable place. 8^)

--Kim


pebbleman


Sep 24, 2004, 7:20 AM
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Then you are the good luck one, this is the wettest year for maybe the last 5-7 years. It has been lean and leaner with the drought. Truly this will be a stellar season...


sharpie


Sep 24, 2004, 7:37 AM
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I wish there was an emoticon for knocking on wood...


furrymurry


Sep 25, 2004, 1:09 PM
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I'm very much interested in making the transition from rock to ice (been on rock for about 5 years). I did a NOLS Alaska mountaineering trip this summer so as to get the basic intro to the cold weather thing. I've got a fair amount of the gear and will be buying more of it soon. If anyone is planning any trips let me know, I'd love to tag along and I'm perty smert and outdoor savvy so I shouldn't be too much of a burden.


furrymurry


Sep 25, 2004, 1:11 PM
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Oh yeah, I realize this is mostly Colorado peeps, but I'm willing to make the drive whenever the possibility presents itself. And if access is ever an issue I drive a lifted, locked, and winched Wrangler.


furrymurry


Sep 26, 2004, 9:11 AM
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Got a solid 3/16 steel bumper, I'm sure it'll do just fine :wink:


timstich


Sep 27, 2004, 2:37 AM
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Since this is the snow thread, I'll post our little note about Gray's Peak. Hiked the North Slopes route yesterday with Marketa, getting a nice, late start. The weather held well into the late afternoon, so no turning around because of rain/snow. The snow on the trail is fairly new it looks like, but is getting sun-packed. None the less, you can kick it with your boots if you try hard enough or get into the softer stuff to the side. There were fresh footprints in South Paw Couloir on Torrey's Peak. Some people even came up long after we started down. It's very nice when these days happen.

On the way out, we noticed a black splash and then a steady line of motor oil on the unimproved road, which is very rough. It continued on for several thousand feet until, yep, the now dead auto sat on the side of the road. Poor engine must have seized up. It was a VW Golf, I think. Glad we have a skid plate covering our oil filter.


sharpie


Sep 27, 2004, 8:52 AM
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Eli Helmuth's Condition Report for Rocky Mountain National Park
September 21, 2004


A large new cold front is dropping 6 to 12 inches on the High Peaks as I write this, but better weather is expected by the weekend. This is the largest storm of the fall season, though the Continental Divide has had a couple of 3-6 inch coatings along it's length in the last month and permanent snowfields such as the Ptarmagin and Taylor Glaciers and Lambs Slide are holding this fresh snow very easily. This is creating excellent fall alpine conditions though the new deposit will need a few days to consolidate.

Ice on the upper flanks of Longs is rapidly forming and I also saw much new ice on the North Face of Mt. Meeker in this last week. The Dovetail ice climbs on the North Face of Longs look to be in good shape and there is substantial new ice forming on this aspect at the higher elevations. Over the weekend, parties were on the Diamond, which was mostly dry except for the ledges of the Casual Route and at the base of the Window. This new storm may end the Diamond season, however, except for those planning winter style ascents. The North Chimney is still reported to be a fairly challenging mixed climb (at least in approach shoes) at the moment and so the Chasm View rappels onto Broadway would be the easiest way to access Diamond routes for those interested in a pre-winter ascent. Alexanders has ice in it, but is still in challenging mixed conditions; it will be fatter in a few more weeks. John Bicknell and client Kurt Johnson did the Notch Couloir on Saturday and John reports that both Lambs Slide and the Notch are in their best fall conditions in several years. The Notch is filled in with solid snow and ice, with ice and mixed conditions in the dogleg crux and in the upper pitches to the summit. It is a more challenging climb in late fall than in the spring due to these conditions. John and client Jon Lenbow then did the First Ptarmigan Finger on Sunday; this too was in excellent condition. Unless the present storm bring early avalanche risk to RMNP, John believes this will be the best fall alpine season since the mid-90's.

This is maybe the tail-end of the season for high alpine rock in the mountains although the many classics on Lumpy Ridge should be great until November. New snow and ice on the Taylor Glacier, the Ptarmigan Fingers, and the Y Couloir on Ypsilon will make for improved alpine mixed climbing conditions. The current colder conditions should keep these routes well frozen and it is expected to be a banner ice climbing and skiing year.

On Longs, conditions have changed remarkably. On the Keyhole, conditions are technical, particularly since significant snow is falling at that elevation now while I write this. The North Face route has a good bit of new snow and ice and the crux sections are covered in ice and require good front-pointing technique and the use of at least one ice tool. The Keyhole Ridge is a little-climbed alternative to the North Face; it is mostly dry, more sustained and involves some classic moderate pitches of rock climbing.

Overall, the colder temps. of the last few weeks have resulted in a solidifying snow pack and in the high mountains, we have much earlier than usual fall conditions and it is anticipated that the ice climbing season will come early and last long if this trend continues. Fresh snow and ice will be coating most of the surfaces above 11,000' and will persist the longest on the east and north facing aspects.
Dreamweaver is perhaps coming into it's peak form as an ice climb - see what you can find up there!


killclimbz


Sep 27, 2004, 8:59 AM
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Speaking of Ice, does anyone know the status of the proposed ice park in Idaho Springs? Rumor was that it was going to opening around the 1st of January, but I know they have hit some snags. Mostly with people driving I-70 and looking at the climbers causing wrecks, which will probably happen. If this happens, and it is successful you could see a flurry of ice parks appearing around Colorado. I know Georgetown has been looking into the possibility. A lot of the mountain towns have got to be jealous of what Ouray has accomplished.


el_capitan


Sep 27, 2004, 3:04 PM
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I've only ice-climbed a few times but I'm definitely wanting to get more into it this year. Also any alpiner's out there who would like to show a midwest implant a few things about the mountains? I'll supply the beverages.


mother_sheep


Sep 28, 2004, 1:14 PM
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In reply to:
I wish there was an emoticon for knocking on wood...

Your wish is my command:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...s/icon_deadhorse.gif


pebbleman


Sep 29, 2004, 6:36 AM
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Good report on Long's, any sign of Smear of Fear?


tradklime


Sep 29, 2004, 12:43 PM
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I'm interested in trying alpine ice this year and leading WI3. Anyone else looking for ice/snow partners, post here so I can bombard you with PMs.

I'll climb with you sometime.


tradklime


Sep 29, 2004, 12:47 PM
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In reply to:
Good report on Long's, any sign of Smear of Fear?

I haven't heard anything of it yet, seems a tad early, I could be wrong though. I'd love to get on this, but it would be a tough introduction to the season. I would be nice to be in your groove before hitting it (on lead at least). Anyone need a partner to follow them up this thing when it shapes up?


sherpajames


Sep 29, 2004, 9:47 PM
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It's nice to know there's a lot more ice junkies out there. If anyone is interested in climbing some ice this winter in SLC area (Stairway, Fang, Candlestick, Automatic, Briadevalle, ect.....) let me know.


timstich


Sep 30, 2004, 4:56 AM
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When the rock gets cold and driving to Shelf gets old, you can climb snow and ice or climb in the indoor gym...I mean shoot yourself. Some people don't like the cold and wet that goes with it, but hey, that's why they have chocolate and vanilla ice cream.


sharpie


Sep 30, 2004, 8:05 AM
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Many have probably already seen this, but it's a great shot of Mal Daly and Topher Donahue on the Smear:

http://images.climbingboulder.com/beta/source/270.jpg


timstich


Sep 30, 2004, 8:13 AM
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That's the ticket! Looking forward to that stuff. Me climbing pal is getting some snow pickets, pitons, and a deadman. I got some gaitors finally. Sheesh. Being unemployed sure cramps your style. But then, it's like being a retro climber like the original Eiger ascentionists that had gear no better than what I currently own. Ve can klimb vit dis gear!


cdb1386


Sep 30, 2004, 8:17 AM
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Hey Tim, I have some pickets and a dead man and some assorted pitons, let me know if you want to borrow them sometime.

In reply to:
That's the ticket! Looking forward to that stuff. Me climbing pal is getting some snow pickets, pitons, and a deadman. I got some gaitors finally. Sheesh. Being unemployed sure cramps your style. But then, it's like being a retro climber like the original Eiger ascentionists that had gear no better than what I currently own. Ve can klimb vit dis gear!


timstich


Sep 30, 2004, 8:20 AM
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Hey Tim, I have some pickets and a dead man and some assorted pitons, let me know if you want to borrow them sometime.

Thanks for the offer, coop. We haven't met yet, I don't think. Dang! Let's get together sometime you guys and have a beer since it's getting rainy now and after work climbing is getting more gym oriented. We could mull over alpine plans and such. It's been demonstrated that beer makes commitments to climb happen more freely.


sharpie


Sep 30, 2004, 10:08 AM
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That's the plan, guess we forgot to invite you. Just joking... :wink:


mother_sheep and I are planning to meet at R&J South this afternoon at 5:30pm, climb for a bit then go booze for a bit and talk about upcoming alpine excursions.

Anybody is welcome to join us, provided you enjoy climbing and drinking (unless Tracy wanted me all to herself :oops:). I'll be the tall, fat, weak guy grunting through the opening moves of a tricky 5.5 route, conected to the skinny, white, blonde chic pointing and laughing at me...


timstich


Sep 30, 2004, 10:45 AM
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That's the plan, guess we forgot to invite you. Just joking... :wink:

Your family pet will pay for that slight. Just kidding!


In reply to:
mother_sheep and I are planning to meet at R&J South this afternoon at 5:30pm, climb for a bit then go booze for a bit and talk about upcoming alpine excursions.

Great. Would you guys mind giving me a call before you head over to the bar? Thanks. Or your family pet will pay the price.

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