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Colorado Ice/Snow Partners Ongoing Thread
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coloredchalker


Jan 8, 2005, 7:56 AM
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Hey yall
I'm in Steamboat for the month of Jan and would love an intro to iceclimbing. If any ones bored :). I brought my harness, helmut and belay device so if nothing else I'll stand at the bottom, belaying and watching you lead.

So if you want to teach, or just need some one to belay. Shoot me a note or ring me- 970-846-8936.

Chill.


jason_himick


Jan 19, 2005, 7:04 AM
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Anyone one for climbig something moderate in Redstone on Sunday 1/23? I was thinking Avocado Gully if it's in.


mother_sheep


Jan 25, 2005, 10:19 AM
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Update:

Ouzel Falls is NOT worth the hike. No climbing there.
Hidden Falls is in good but all chopped out.

Looking for information on the falls on the way to Lone Eagle via the Monarch Lake Trailhead. Are those falls frozen up? Is the road to the trailhead open?


cagdbikeclimb


Feb 1, 2005, 2:42 PM
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I'm in the Boulder, CO area. I'm looking to hook up with some ice climbers to follow ice pitches and just get some mileage on ice. I learned to ice climb last winter and I don't lead yet. I'd also like to hook up with some people for a weekend in Ouray some time soon.

I'm a competent and safe rock climber. I can provide the names of partners who would vouch for my safety. I'm in pretty good aerobic shape so long and steep approaches are no problemo for me.

Thanks,
- Dave

p.s. Thanks Martha for pointing me in the right direction.


sharpie


Feb 3, 2005, 9:56 AM
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Is anyone interested in climbing ice on Sunday?

I would like to possibly head to Hidden Falls, Vail, maybe even Lincoln; somewhere with a relatively quick approach. I would like to be back in Castle Rock around 4pm, but am willing to start as early as necessary.


mother_sheep


Feb 4, 2005, 2:27 PM
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I've heard Martha's is doable all winter. This is a possibility for Sunday or Black Lake area in the Park.

1. Hows the snowpack up to Black Lake?
2. How's Dream Weaver this time of year?
3. How are the conditions on Martha?
4. Lastly, does anyone have any info on the ice out at Peacock Pools, below Chasm?
5. I'm also looking for suggestions on long routes within 2.5 hours of Denver. I'll have 24 hours to kill. Lonk hike in is okay and welcome!

Please answer before Sat PM. THANK YOU!!!!


sharpie


Feb 4, 2005, 2:46 PM
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Jack R. reports as of 1/26 that:

"Martha- Where once there was a climb, now there is not. "

"Black Lake area- Lots of thick ice and seeing some traffic."

"Dreamweaver- Mostly deep snow but with ice through the Narrows."


mother_sheep


Feb 7, 2005, 7:09 AM
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BLACK LAKE ice in RMNP is every where!!!! The Slabs are full of ice. The ice was super hard and very brittle. The ice wasn't dinner plating but dinner TABLING!!! It made what is normally a pretty cruiser climb be quite interesting. My partner and I both looked a it and said, "We could solo this!" But we roped up and were REALLY glad we did. The hike in was not bad at all. Most of the trail was packed. Snowshoes were not needed at all. It looked like we were the only ones who'd been up to the climb in about 1 week or so. No foot prints to be seen. We postholed a bit, up to the groin a few times, getting off the peak but carrying snowshoes up would be dumb! The beta on this route says that it is 250' but we did almost 3 full rope legnths of climbing, one pitch being a snow, ice combo pitch. Then we hiked up about an additional 200' to find the walk off.

There is ice all around the lake. When you're facing the slabs and you turn right, there is a huge formation of ice, maybe 4 pitches worth. Getting to the climb looks problematic because of possible avy hazard but it looks like once you're at the base it's fine. When you top out on the route, you'll be facing Arrowhead Pk, Chiefshead and McHenry's Peak. Does anyone know what climb this is and what it goes at? I was thinking maybe the West Gulley but it looks very different from the beta I've read on that climb.

Gotta get back out in the Park next weekend. So much ice to explore.


mother_sheep


Feb 7, 2005, 9:42 AM
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Just answered my own question. . .West Gulley and Stone Man.


zozo


Feb 16, 2005, 6:55 AM
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Anybody ever climb at Gillette Falls? Top ropeable stuff? - Got no screws.


patrickaz


Feb 18, 2005, 5:36 PM
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Anybody out there looking for a partner?? I have spent 15 days on ice so far. Am a solid belayer. I have some rock and mountaineering experience as well. Wanting to get on some ice, willing to travel wherever.
Patrick


mother_sheep


Mar 18, 2005, 7:13 AM
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So this is my partner and my last weekend of ice this year. We're heading to Zion and Vegas the following weeks and will not be back until April. We want to do something big, meaning possible bivy, long hike in, multiple pitches of vertical ice, long hike out. We're talking about going to Eureka on Sat night, climbing Stairway to Heaven and then driving back on Sunday. Thats a whole lotta driving but it may be worth it for 900' of ice. Does anyone have any suggestions of anything closer? My partner is a pretty solid 4+ leader on ice. I'm solid leading 3 and could lead higher but it would be sketchy. We are also alpine partners so something in the alpine would be favorable too. Please help me think of something good. Thanks. :-)


eviljay


Mar 18, 2005, 4:02 PM
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You could check out the "Hidden Falls" in Glenwood Canyon. It is 4 pitches and usually about WI4 to 4+. The approach takes about an hour and it is in a really beautiful location. Not really Alpine but a great multi-pitch ice route nonetheless.


evanmfreeman


Mar 20, 2005, 12:40 PM
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just a quick note: i'd be very careful to check on the avy conditions in eureka/silverton before doing stairway to heaven this time of year. it's a great route, and i really enjoyed it, but i did it in november. most people don't climb much of that stuff later because of the huge collection zones above the routes--you'll see them if you go there.

so, just call around before you invest a lot of time. southern co has had a ton of snow this year, and i'm not sure what that has done to the conditions.

evan


mother_sheep


Apr 6, 2005, 8:02 AM
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Soooo ummmm yeah, can't seem to get ice off the brain in spite of my desert endeavors of the past week. So how about some info on the condition on Notch Top's North Face??? I'm assuming the bowl is pretty unstable right now and may not even hold traffic to cross it. Can't do it this weekend but next weekend, I'd like to. What time of year is it ideal to do this climb? Has anyone been on the ice up there? It's something I'd really be interested in doing. Thanks.


crzdriver


Apr 6, 2005, 7:01 PM
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I've been mountain biking all week. Would love to do a mountain route or ice climb this weekend. I'm no use leading ice and don't have any screws, but I follow well, and have a solid belay. Available for the whole weekend. I'm in Fort Collins right now. PM or e-mail me.


mother_sheep


May 4, 2005, 8:11 AM
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Soooo. . .I REFUSE to let go of the season. Gonna buy some new tools next month. Is there any good ice left in the state? How about alpine ice, with minimal avy danger?


timstich


May 7, 2005, 2:20 PM
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Let's go do Dreamweaver when the snow gets a few sunny days. There's still some ice on that I'm sure.


allarounder


May 9, 2005, 6:55 AM
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dude, with all the snow we've gotten lately, Dreamweaver will be a slog. it won't be in shape for three-four weeks minimum.


timstich


May 9, 2005, 4:33 PM
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I'll be calling the park for an update on snow conditions at any rate.


mother_sheep


Jun 20, 2005, 7:17 AM
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I saw a nice looking water fall off of County Road 390 yesterday. It's located at the 6 mile mark, on the way out to Oxford, Belford, Huron, etc. . . It appears to be approximately 3 pitches long. Does this falls freeze up? If so, what does it go at? It would appear to be about WI3. Thanks.


mother_sheep


Aug 29, 2005, 7:55 AM
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Can anyone give me the current condition on the Powell Ice Fields? Thanks.


mother_sheep


Oct 7, 2005, 10:45 AM
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So I know I've asked this question before to no avail but here goes again. . .Anyone know the conditins on the Powell Ice Fields? How about Tyndall Glacier? Which is taller and steeper? Looking do do something like this on Sunday am before climbing. With the night freezes I imagine the snow is getting pretty icy right now right? Oh wow! It's all coming back!!!! Can you feel it? :-) :-) :-)


mother_sheep


Oct 14, 2005, 8:45 AM
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Aaron and I climbed our first ice this season. We went to Lincoln Falls. Lots of people have been asking me about the conditions and I'd say give it another week or 2 and it will be worth the drive. The existing ice is hollow, fragile and very delicate right now. None of the routes are completely formed yet. So you may get about 20-30' (at best) of okay ice and the rest is not really worth touching. There is a ton of snow up there. The bowling alley has a huge section of loose rock and snow starting above about 25'into p1 and extending just below the upper tier, which is not good right now at all. 1 descent section is in and it's the curtain on the upper tier just below the bouler with the bolted anchor on the right side. It's very fragile and hollow. The 1st 25' is actually pretty nice but you have to be careful and pick your line wisely. On either side of the descent stuff, the ice is bad. You can hook your way up the descent stuff but excessive kicking and sticking will cause this thing to fall.

How is Loch Vale doing? I heard some people were headed up this week to check it out. Anyone know?


pebbleman


Oct 16, 2005, 1:11 PM
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Notchtop north face should be okay, the storm of last weekend (so I'm told, I was in Italy actually) should have dumped enough snow on it, this week's sun should have melted enough of that snow to make the first pitch of ice form up. I plan on taking a walk up to the park Tuesday to check on things so I will have a look around. I did NT about 10 years ago but it was right around this time of year, it was quite enjoyable. More rain/snow Tuesday and onward should flesh things out a bit more. Avalanche hazard on that face should diminish quickly at this time of year although winter is a different matter. PM me if you need more spurious and fantastical information bordering on sheer speculation.

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