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watty70


Oct 5, 2008, 9:10 AM
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modified gear
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Hi I'm doing some research for a design & technology project on climbing equipment and would appreciate it if some people could answer this question.
Have you ever altered a piece of climbing equipment to make it work more effectively?

Thanx, Matt.


Lazlo


Oct 5, 2008, 9:16 AM
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watty70 wrote:
Hi I'm doing some research for a design & technology project on climbing equipment and would appreciate it if some people could answer this question.
Have you ever altered a piece of climbing equipment to make it work more effectively?

Thanx, Matt.

I cut the wires off my BD hexes and added Spectra cord in place of the wires. Never looked back...except when I bailed off two of them and knew that I was now leaving behind more than just the price of the hexes. Expensive, but sexy that Spectra is.


sungam


Oct 5, 2008, 1:27 PM
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watty70 wrote:
Hi I'm doing some research for a design & technology project on climbing equipment and would appreciate it if some people could answer this question.
Have you ever altered a piece of climbing equipment to make it work more effectively?

Thanx, Matt.
Ug-oh, another research and design kid wanting us to do his homework for him...
Oh well, here it goes:
I once took my climbing rope and cut the sheath of it.
what the fuck? you say why the feck would you do THAT???
Well, to be honest, my rope never touches the rock- the routes I've been doing are that clean and steep.
Also, extensive studies have shown that you don't even need the whole core, and two strands alone can hold your weight.
Basically I lead on 4 strands- two sets of two. It works great- hardly notice the weight of the rope, little or drag, and I'm sending that sh!4t like never before.


yodadave


Oct 5, 2008, 2:16 PM
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Hey Matt,
In NC the thing to do used to be filing down your pink tricam. But now there are 2 smaller tricams so that will probably cease.


chossmonkey


Oct 5, 2008, 6:54 PM
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I put longer trigger wires on a cam to make it easier to place and retrieve in deep placements.


chossmonkey


Oct 5, 2008, 6:55 PM
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yodadave wrote:
Hey Matt,
In NC the thing to do used to be filing down your pink tricam. But now there are 2 smaller tricams so that will probably cease.
I've done that too.


irregularpanda


Oct 5, 2008, 7:07 PM
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dilbar wrote:
I hope Majid doesn't find out that you are SMOKING THAT SHIT!

Majid is the one smoking that shit. That kid, whoooeeee what a stoner.

Anyway, I have Wild country rocks, the really really big nuts, right. I'm going to drill holes in the aluminum to lighten the load, and to hopefully give them better surface area in certain placements. Similarly to the DMM wallnuts, except more ghetto.


reno


Oct 5, 2008, 7:53 PM
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lobstertronic wrote:
watty70 wrote:
Hi I'm doing some research for a design & technology project ... Have you ever altered a piece of climbing equipment to make it work more effectively?

I've tied knots in climbing rope to make it more useful in actually climbing stuff.

You're gonna die!!!!!!!!111one


marde


Oct 6, 2008, 4:05 AM
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filed my icetool picks for special purposes
changed the angles of my icesrews' teeth to make them bite better (they get dull faster as well).
Added chest gearloops on my alpine pack
so nothing serious just minor changes

and I made my own russian aiders but that's not altering something


adatesman


Oct 6, 2008, 6:24 AM
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sungam


Oct 6, 2008, 6:33 AM
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adatesman wrote:
I've disassembled cams to put on new lobes with different profiles.
You're gunna die!!!!1111oneone1


yetanotherdave


Oct 6, 2008, 7:22 AM
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have a peek thru the aid forum - lots of gear mods for aid climbing:
- sharpened hooks
- sawed-off pitons
- holes drilled in everything you own to add keeper slings
- ...


forkliftdaddy


Oct 6, 2008, 7:23 AM
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adatesman wrote:
I've disassembled cams to put on new lobes with different profiles.

Me, too. I disassembled a titanium stemmed, rigid .5 Friend to put on lobes and axle from a newer 1.0 friend. Works like a charm.


adatesman


Oct 6, 2008, 7:57 AM
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jeremy11


Oct 6, 2008, 9:55 AM
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adatesman wrote:
As for swapping factory lobes around, that's pretty straight forward on Aliens and Rock Empire Durangos. Just unscrew the axle termination (nut for Aliens, screw for Durangos) and mix and match as needed. I can't say which Alien lobes are swapable since I haven't gotten around to measuring the axles, but for Durangos the .5 and .75 use a 6mm axle and can swap lobes, 1 and 2 use an 8mm axle and can swap, and 3, 4 and 5 use a 10mm axle and can swap.

I've thought about making hybrids with my older model Trango flexcams (currently sold as Rock Empire Durangos) of course you'd have to redo some trigger wires to make hybrids, and be out a cam or two of extra parts..... but I don't need hybrids yet anyway.

Gear modifications I've done:
Shortened BD spectre
Shortened Long Dong lost arrow piton
Turned a bike wrench (big cone wrench for 1-piece cranks) into a monster nut tool
replaced trigger wires
replaced gear loop on my harness
added haul loop to harness
taped tricams for stiffness (lots of electrical tape)

I've also done tons of modifications to backpacking gear, apparel, and bike parts, as well as many DIY projects


hansundfritz


Oct 6, 2008, 1:15 PM
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Add another vote for filing down the 0.5 (pink) Tri-Cam. The two new sizes do not make this practice obsolete, in my view, for those of us who really are addicted to the things. Plenty of room between the new 0.25 and the old 0.5 for at least one filed-down jobbie.

But what about filing down a new 0.25 (black) to get one between the 0.125 (white) and the 0.25? Has anyone tried this yet? Frankly, those things look small enough as is.


armsrforclimbing


Oct 6, 2008, 1:23 PM
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I added a homemade aluminum pinky rest to my Aztars, without cutting away the rubber handle.


dudemanbu


Oct 7, 2008, 5:19 PM
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yodadave wrote:
Hey Matt,
In NC the thing to do used to be filing down your pink tricam. But now there are 2 smaller tricams so that will probably cease.

A filed down pinky is still stronger than the new two though.


adatesman


Oct 7, 2008, 6:02 PM
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gunkiemike


Oct 8, 2008, 2:02 PM
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adatesman wrote:
dudemanbu wrote:
A filed down pinky is still stronger than the new two though.

Not to argue, but how do you figure that? Actual tests or gut feeling?

Filing the nose doesn't change the pullout strength of the pin.


flint


Oct 8, 2008, 2:21 PM
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adatesman wrote:
forkliftdaddy wrote:
I disassembled a titanium stemmed, rigid .5 Friend to put on lobes and axle from a newer 1.0 friend. Works like a charm.

Not quite what I meant, but that works too... Smile

What I've been doing is machining new lobes based on a design I've been working on that allows for much greater range without sacrificing holding power. The one I'm working on at the moment gets ~25-53mm (2.1:1 expansion ratio) and has the same holding power as a cam with a 14 degree cam angle.

As for swapping factory lobes around, that's pretty straight forward on Aliens and Rock Empire Durangos. Just unscrew the axle termination (nut for Aliens, screw for Durangos) and mix and match as needed. I can't say which Alien lobes are swapable since I haven't gotten around to measuring the axles, but for Durangos the .5 and .75 use a 6mm axle and can swap lobes, 1 and 2 use an 8mm axle and can swap, and 3, 4 and 5 use a 10mm axle and can swap.

sungam wrote:
You're gunna die!!!!1111oneone1

Isn't everyone, at one point or another? Tongue

Now I can make my own set of offset cams..... nice

j-


adatesman


Oct 8, 2008, 4:40 PM
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