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Mammut 8mm Dyneema slings, how do they wear?
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ryan112ryan


Feb 13, 2005, 8:08 PM
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Mammut 8mm Dyneema slings, how do they wear?
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Iíve been looking at the Mammut 8mm Dyneema (as I like to call them "shoe laces"), in many reviews people have mentioned that they were unaware as to how they wear over edges etc. Wondering if anyone knows any resources on the testing of their "wearability" or at least personal experience on how they wear? I figure they have been out for a while now, so people have had a chance to get out and abuse them :)


dirtineye


Feb 13, 2005, 8:28 PM
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Had one, brand new, go about 20 falls over an edge (in the sames spot) and wear enough that I retired it. Kind of scary. I was not impressed.

BUt, I like the things, so I carry some thicker stuff for those wear prone situations and use the mammuts everywhere else.

In other words, if you are working your 5.whatever trad project and falling off the crux over and over, and the sling is rubbing every time, use something bigger than the mammut 8 mm dyneema slings. Otherwise, they rock.


Partner hosh


Feb 13, 2005, 8:38 PM
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Re: Mammut 8mm Dyneema slings, how do they wear? [In reply to]
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Mine wear really well. I've got some grey shoulder-length ones that go really well with my prAna hoodie. I also like the Orange shoulder-length ones for my summer wardrobe...


Just kidding.

I used one today, slung over a horn as part of my anchor system. It worked fine, even though I was a little concerned that it would cut over one of the edges it was rubbing on. I'm no expert, but it worked fine for me. In other news, I also had to use one to hook up a toe cable to pull my car out of a snow bank after climbing this evening... I got high centered and a nice guy with a SUV pulled me out. Worked well here too... :)


timmy_t


Feb 13, 2005, 8:43 PM
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Re: Mammut 8mm Dyneema slings, how do they wear? [In reply to]
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They don't wear too bad, but if you are worried about it I would check out Wild Country's 10mm (I think they are 10) slings. They are VERY close to the same size, but seem to be way burlier.


cryder


Feb 13, 2005, 8:46 PM
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Re: Mammut 8mm Dyneema slings, how do they wear? [In reply to]
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I have had mine laced up in my koflachs all year. no problem whatesoever. :twisted:

Aight. Seriously... less surface area to take a little less edge abuse. I use them accordingly. They are still my favorite sling. Just wish they came in more than three colors and two lengths so I could sort them from a partners rack a little easier at the end of the day.

- n -


jt512


Feb 13, 2005, 8:46 PM
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Mine wear really well. I've got some grey shoulder-length ones that go really well with my prAna hoodie. I also like the Orange shoulder-length ones for my summer wardrobe...


Just kidding.

I used one today, slung over a horn as part of my anchor system. It worked fine, even though I was a little concerned that it would cut over one of the edges it was rubbing on. I'm no expert, but it worked fine for me.

It "worked fine" for you? Obviously the runner won't wear out after a single use. You should have quit after the fashion paragraph. At least that was funny.

-Jay


Partner gunksgoer


Feb 13, 2005, 9:25 PM
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Re: Mammut 8mm Dyneema slings, how do they wear? [In reply to]
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the 8mm dyneemas get a bit hairy/fuzzy, but so far so good for me. id get the wildcountry ones tho if i could find them, since they have almost no more bulk then the mammuts and seem burlier.


bubbahotep


Feb 13, 2005, 9:50 PM
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Had one, brand new, go about 20 falls over an edge (in the sames spot) and wear enough that I retired it. Kind of scary. I was not impressed.

Huh? What the heck do you expect out of a piece of fabric?

20 falls over an edge "in the same spot" and you are surprised it was worn?

For what it's worth, I've been using them for over a year now (for actual climbing, not top-roping) and think they are great. But then again, I have not come close to taking 20 falls on any of them. Combined with light weight biners, you can shave a ton of weight off the rack, and from what I've seen, they wear as well as a wider, heavier runner.

And, cryder, they come in three lengths, not two - 12". shoulder length and double length.


Partner eyecannon


Feb 13, 2005, 11:24 PM
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I love em, they go nicely with a pair of superflys. I don't think I'd use them on chickenheads though, because the smaller width causes more pressure on the fibers... so I prefer to use the mammuts for trad draws and 12mm slings for chickenheads and the like.


dirtineye


Feb 14, 2005, 12:07 AM
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Had one, brand new, go about 20 falls over an edge (in the sames spot) and wear enough that I retired it. Kind of scary. I was not impressed.

Huh? What the heck do you expect out of a piece of fabric?

20 falls over an edge "in the same spot" and you are surprised it was worn?

For what it's worth, I've been using them for over a year now (for actual climbing, not top-roping) and think they are great. But then again, I have not come close to taking 20 falls on any of them. Combined with light weight biners, you can shave a ton of weight off the rack, and from what I've seen, they wear as well as a wider, heavier runner.


Well, no, not surprized that it was worn, some strands were actually cut. I have seen nylon 9/16 hold up better, in the same spot on the same climb.

The dyneema may be as strong as or stronger than bigger thicker nylon slings, but the durability is not as great in my experience.


wlderdude


Feb 14, 2005, 7:47 AM
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Had one, brand new, go about 20 falls over an edge (in the sames spot) and wear enough that I retired it. Kind of scary. I was not impressed.

Huh? What the heck do you expect out of a piece of fabric?

20 falls over an edge "in the same spot" and you are surprised it was worn?

For what it's worth, I've been using them for over a year now (for actual climbing, not top-roping) and think they are great. But then again, I have not come close to taking 20 falls on any of them. Combined with light weight biners, you can shave a ton of weight off the rack, and from what I've seen, they wear as well as a wider, heavier runner.

And, cryder, they come in three lengths, not two - 12". shoulder length and double length.

Thank you both for your comments. I like hearing first hand exerience about failure modes and gear wear issues, even if they do seem obvious from the computer screen.

These suckers are next on my wish list.


Partner j_ung


Feb 14, 2005, 7:56 AM
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Had one, brand new, go about 20 falls over an edge (in the sames spot) and wear enough that I retired it. Kind of scary. I was not impressed.

Huh? What the heck do you expect out of a piece of fabric?

20 falls over an edge "in the same spot" and you are surprised it was worn?

Dirt, that was my first reaction, too. Maybe I'm not picturing the edge accurately, but I'm pretty impressed by 20 falls over an edge. In fact, I would have expected it to fail completely at far fewer sharp-edge falls. Can you describe the edge and the fall a little better for us?


glyrocks


Feb 14, 2005, 8:09 AM
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I've had a few for maybe 6 months. They've been used regularly as sport, trad, and ice runners. No wear problems or fuzziness yet, but 6-months isn't really that long. I always carry tied-nylon runners with me though for leaving behind or retying around something, just in case. I don't really want to leave the Dyneemas behind, and I don't think they would hold a knot as well.


bubbahotep


Feb 14, 2005, 8:59 AM
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I don't really want to leave the Dyneemas behind, and I don't think they would hold a knot as well.

Very true. The slightly wider Spectra slings don't and it's my impression that these would be even worse. Personally, I wouldn't trust them if used this way except in a dire emergency.

Good idea on the tied runners - I use one for my chalk bag and it's come in handy many times.


dirtineye


Feb 14, 2005, 11:14 AM
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Had one, brand new, go about 20 falls over an edge (in the sames spot) and wear enough that I retired it. Kind of scary. I was not impressed.

Huh? What the heck do you expect out of a piece of fabric?

20 falls over an edge "in the same spot" and you are surprised it was worn?

Dirt, that was my first reaction, too. Maybe I'm not picturing the edge accurately, but I'm pretty impressed by 20 falls over an edge. In fact, I would have expected it to fail completely at far fewer sharp-edge falls. Can you describe the edge and the fall a little better for us?

It was not a very sharp edge. But it actually cut a little before the 20 falls, because the leader noticed the wear and rotated the sling at some point.

We used a 9/16 hand tied nylon sling the next time, and it worked much better. There was still wear, but not so much, just normal scuffing.

I will have to go back and look at the climb for the particulars. This happened a year or so ago. I think the sling was swinging down and along the abraiding surface. It did not look like this should have happened when you eyeballed the rock where the abraision happened.


stardrivin


Feb 14, 2005, 11:34 AM
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I've used both the mammut and wild country equivalents. go with the wild country if you've got a choice. much more durable, only slightly wider


Partner hosh


Feb 16, 2005, 9:38 AM
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Mine wear really well. I've got some grey shoulder-length ones that go really well with my prAna hoodie. I also like the Orange shoulder-length ones for my summer wardrobe...


Just kidding.

I used one today, slung over a horn as part of my anchor system. It worked fine, even though I was a little concerned that it would cut over one of the edges it was rubbing on. I'm no expert, but it worked fine for me.

It "worked fine" for you? Obviously the runner won't wear out after a single use. You should have quit after the fashion paragraph. At least that was funny.

-Jay

Um, note the "I'm no expert" statement I made.

Note also that I never stated that I was worried about the runner "wearing out" after a single use. What I said was that I was "a little concerned that it would cut over one of the edges (which was quite sharp) it was rubbing on." Seriously, I dont understand the hostility... I was just throwing in my 2 cents. I know that I'm not the most experienced or the most informative poster on this site, but at least I strive to be helpful and polite.


greenmachineman7


Feb 16, 2005, 10:04 AM
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gearexpress.com has the wild country/DMM runners available in sets of 4 for $19. good deal.


Partner euroford


Feb 17, 2005, 6:48 AM
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i now have 1 full season of trad and a couple of ice climbs on mine and i'm quite impressed by the durability. they have fuzzed a bit, but i expected them to be a little worse off by this point. i have been very happy with these runners, not only becouse they are thin and light, but the way mammut has sewn them is wonderfull.

being an ultralite piece of wearable gear, i knew full well that i would get way less milliage out of these than nylon runners. however they have most certainly exceded my expectations and actually worn a little better than anticipated.


smearhound


Feb 18, 2005, 5:29 AM
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I've used the 8mm slings for a season of trad and they are wearing just fine. I plan to use them for the foreseeable future.

Granted, my use has not involved a lot of contact with sharp rock, so I can't add to that debate.


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