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poppasmearf
Feb 16, 2005, 12:52 PM
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In reply to: every climb i can't do is sandbagged - every climb you do is soft.
Exxaactly :!:
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naw
Feb 16, 2005, 12:58 PM
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As far as sport climbing goes, I've always heard that the new river gorge is soft. The one trip I had to the obed in TN seemed even softer than the ratings at new river gorge though, so I guess it must be really soft. Considering I'm barely leading 5.10 though I pretty much get spanked everywhere. I've always heard that smith rocks and yosemite were the most sandbagged areas in the country.
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ambler
Feb 16, 2005, 1:00 PM
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In reply to: I think that all of the older school places are right on and all newer places are soft. All in the perspective 8^)
Modern featherbagging seems most advanced at certain sport areas, where the '5.6' grade might be given to a slab climb with buckets. Then people expect the trad grades to be likewise.
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jacquesjones
Feb 16, 2005, 2:20 PM
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yes, but more interesting.
Does sandbagging make the climbers worse?
Some sandbagging makes the climber feel not as good and that he can't do hard routes.
Also some hard routes are easy.
-jacques
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ambler
Feb 16, 2005, 2:37 PM
Post #30 of 112
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In reply to: yes, but more interesting. Does sandbagging make the climbers worse?
But seriously...aside from just annoying me (on grouchy days) or cheering me up because I climb so hard (on outdoors days), climbing grade inflation leads people to overestimate their own skill level, which can be dangerous if they venture away from the trade routes.
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off_center
Feb 16, 2005, 2:54 PM
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Pinnacles, near California's central coast, is fairly soft.
I think an area's rating softness or sand bagedness typically has to do with the area's age of development. Seems like older places typically have a stiffer rating than newer places. Anyone else notice that trend?
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greenmachineman7
Feb 16, 2005, 3:17 PM
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WAH WAH WAH. LIFE IS SANDBAGGED. DEAL WITH IT.
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whatsupdoc
Feb 16, 2005, 3:24 PM
Post #33 of 112
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In reply to: I think an area's rating softness or sand bagedness typically has to do with the area's age of development.
Sandbagedness, eh?
That's a new one.
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naw
Feb 16, 2005, 3:27 PM
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In reply to: WAH WAH WAH. LIFE IS SANDBAGGED. DEAL WITH IT.
One of my favorite things on the internet is whenever someone attempts to insult everyone who's contributing to a thread by showing that he or she has nothing better to do than to contribute to it.
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kachoong
Feb 16, 2005, 9:17 PM
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In reply to: Just about every climbing area I've been to, both the locals and the magazines claim is sandbagged. Big Bend is sandbagged. Squamish is sandbagged. Yosemite is sandbagged. Skyland is sandbagged. Rifle is sandbagged (if you don't have the sequence and kneebar beta) Entire nations get listed as sandbagged, such as Japan (see the Japan issue of climbing), New Zealand, and Australia.
conclusion: you can't compare crags as easily as comparing climbs of the same grade.... :? if that makes sense....
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anykineclimb
Feb 16, 2005, 10:41 PM
Post #37 of 112
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What is this "sandbag"?
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arsenalcrater
Feb 16, 2005, 11:14 PM
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I use Granite Mountain and Pardise Forks as my benchmark for grades. These places make me plenty strong so I can onsight 12's and 13's at Jacks.
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jcshaggy
Feb 17, 2005, 2:31 AM
Post #39 of 112
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Most of the routes in SA that were sandbagged have now been given the correct grade although I had few surprises.
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erclimb
Feb 17, 2005, 4:52 AM
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red rocks is very soft...and having so many bolts so close together is even softer...
but i'm an east coast climber, learned at seneca; so i'm accustomed to sandbagging (stone moutain, nc, is reasonable just way scary with the loooooong runouts)
i think j-tree is about perfect
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whiteflash
Feb 17, 2005, 6:38 AM
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Sandrock Alabama is pretty darn soft by most standards. I think I'll have to agree with others that stated sport areas mostly developed recently tend to have softer grades than other older areas.
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ambler
Feb 17, 2005, 6:49 AM
Post #42 of 112
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In reply to: red rocks is very soft...and having so many bolts so close together is even softer... |
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blueeyedclimber
Feb 17, 2005, 6:59 AM
Post #43 of 112
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In reply to: What is this "sandbag"?
It's what Indiana Jones replace the golden idol with in Raiders of the Lost Ark.
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slobmonster
Feb 17, 2005, 8:20 AM
Post #44 of 112
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In reply to: WAH WAH WAH. LIFE IS SANDBAGGED. DEAL WITH IT. |
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angry
Feb 17, 2005, 8:37 AM
Post #45 of 112
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Everything I've ever climbed within 20 miles of St. George UT is soft by at least a number grade. Guidebook 10b = actual 8+ in most cases.
Yosemite isn't sandbagged. If you can't climb at your grade in Yos, you probably have mistaken what "your grade" is.
Boulder Canyon is very very soft (minded, ethics, and grades).
Half of Vedauwoo is soft, the other half is sick, the average is perfect.
5.10 is soft in Indian Creek, above that it seems accurate (if you are the type that takes endurance into the ratings).
The south platte varies route to route.
The answer is.... Whatever, just deal.
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tradklime
Feb 17, 2005, 8:58 AM
Post #46 of 112
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In reply to: Boulder Canyon is very very soft (minded, ethics, and grades).
Now now, I know for a fact that you have felt differently on a couple of routes on Castle Rock.
New routes... possibly. Overall, it depends.
Tough cake.
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angry
Feb 17, 2005, 9:01 AM
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OK, "The By Gulley" took all my sieging prowess to just aid up. I can't climb faces so the start of Athletes Feat and Country Club felt hard.
Aside from that I've onsighted more "hard" routes in B-canyon than anywhere else.
Shit, if I can onsight 10c in the rain while the crack is dripping water, it isn't 10c.
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rhu
Feb 17, 2005, 10:47 AM
Post #48 of 112
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In reply to: In reply to: Man, I can't wait ( can't wait) until some pampered upper-New Yorker comes along to claim that the Gunks are famous for being sandbagged. Because, trust me, if it doesn't happen in this thread, it'll be the only one. In reply to: I've always heard that the Gunks were sandbagged. Well, that didn't take long.
You're welcome.
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toofreakinsexy1
Jul 26, 2008, 12:17 AM
Post #49 of 112
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Great Falls. VA anyone? I met a 10d there a couple months ago that wiped me all over the place, and I climb pretty consistant 12a. Also I think it's funny that Franklin, WV and Seneca can be so close, I can climb 13a at Franklin and 5.3+ at Seneca, lol, and they're like an hour away from eachother, developed at different times does it I suppose
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rtwilli4
Jul 26, 2008, 12:37 AM
Post #50 of 112
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I don't have a great amount of experience in the states but I'd say that most of the popular places in Thailand are pretty soft. I'm mainly talking about Railey/Tonsai and Koh Phi Phi. However, I have climbed with a lot of the guys who developed some of those walls and they had some interesting explanations for their grades (endurance, exposure, what kind of shape THEY were in, all kinds of random stuff). It made sense to me but I was usually in the middle of a joint or a bucket or both when we discussed these things.
how about Zoo View 5.7+) at Moore's Wall, NC. I had the opportunity to climb some trad. the other day (I have little trad. experience), and this one felt harder than a 7+. I guess it's hard for me to tell though... I'm outta shape and just learning to place/remove gear. Either way it fucking rocked!
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