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Anyone done jah man recently??
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krga20


Feb 21, 2005, 5:30 PM
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Anyone done jah man recently??  (North_America: United_States: Utah: Moab: Castle_Valley)
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I was hoping someone could give me a little info. on this route. I'm heading down there when things drys out. Too much rain recently, its driving me crazy...

A list of gear, and which aspect it faces would be nice.

thanks in advance.


crackmd


Feb 21, 2005, 5:45 PM
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Re: Anyone done jah man recently?? [In reply to]
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Jah Man climbs the sunny face of Sister Superior. The hike is about equivalant to the Castleton approach (maybe looser and less traveled). Plan on about 1 to 1.5 hours. The road to access the trail gets progressively rougher to the point where I refused to take my Mazda SUV any further and we walked probably less than a mile to the trailhead marked by a huge cairn. A double set of cams would probably be adequate for most climbers. If you want to be on the safe side, triple up on the green and red Camelots. I did not use any wires. The rap only required one 60-meter rope so you don't have to haul a second rope up the arduous approach. Awesome climbing on great rock with great positions on a classic desert tower make for an unforgettable experience. Have fun!


seanb


Feb 21, 2005, 6:02 PM
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Re: Anyone done jah man recently?? [In reply to]
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I would have loved to have had another #2 Friend or a #1 Camalot, as the crux of the route was a hand crack that just didn't quite jive with my paws. Ditto on the 4wd... we drove my old Trooper and it was at its limit. Have fun.


krga20


Feb 22, 2005, 12:59 PM
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CrackMD,

Thanks! That is what I was looking for...

San Diegan I see. I'm from there as well, but recently moved to Colorado. I appreciate the info. You should post up some pics. your route database is impressive...

Rob


slobmonster


Feb 22, 2005, 2:12 PM
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For me, getting into the chimney (guidebook second pitch) was the freakiest bit.

Triples (at least), there's a "nice" discussion of the rack HERE

It seems the consensus is three or more 0.75 Camalots.


lemon_boy


Feb 22, 2005, 2:29 PM
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been up twice, both times in november, the last time was this last november.

the road in has one crux spot, a tight left curve around a large boulder where the road goes up and over some rocks. it isn't as bad as it looks, but if you have doubts, the hike won't be much longer.

first pitch is kind of a boulder problem with a good stopper for pro, then traverse a ledge that is slightly loose, but not bad. try to throw in pro for your partner. then head up a 10' section of OW, be careful of the block in the back. sometimes it is loose, sometimes not.

sister squeeze is super fun. nice edges inside the chimney and you can get finger sized cams here and there. hardest part is getting in. tie your knot with a big loop so the bulk of the knot isn't hosing you.

first pitch of ledge starts with a tough move. blue alien is handy here. be careful because the rock is kind of a big hollow flake. the rest of the pitch is tight hands to hand sized pieces. one big flake. kind of eerie hearing your gear so much.

next pitch is tight hands to an awkward mantle into a dihedral of sorts. #1 camalots are money on this pitch. be sure to save one for the end to extend the life of your underwear. the anchors are 1 ledge higher than you had hoped.

last pitch is ancient bolts and some stiff cranking. i thought this pitch wasn't much easier than the crux pitches of ancient art or washer woman. puts the teeth in back into 5.9.

nice small summit, excellent views, memorable pitches, good rock, 5 stars.

rack: medium stopper for p1, set of aliens or tcus, set of camalots to #3, with 2 or 3 X .75 and 3 or 4 #1 should keep you in good shape. it seemed to me like #1 camalots were the key pieces and you could put them all over the place.

faces south, but often windy. hot climbing, chilly belaying.

good luck!


mtn_eagle


Feb 22, 2005, 3:02 PM
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Re: Anyone done jah man recently?? [In reply to]
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We climbed it last year (F-in' incredible!) and noticed there was a new sport route up the right side. From the top of the sister squeeze it continues up from the right side of the enormous flake. Looks to be pretty hard. Anyone know anything about it? We used the new route's rap rings to get down as they were in much better shape than the ones on Jah Man.


crackmd


Feb 22, 2005, 3:10 PM
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In reply to:
CrackMD,

Thanks! That is what I was looking for...

San Diegan I see. I'm from there as well, but recently moved to Colorado. I appreciate the info. You should post up some pics. your route database is impressive...

Rob

I'm not originally from here, just doing a 3-year fellowship here. I'm then looking to move to a city with better access to climbing like many of the cities in Colorado. Seems like I do a ton of driving to get to the best crags living in San Diego.
I seem to have a lot of time at work to daydream about climbing, thus the long route list. Just recently got into digital photography and will be posting pics soon.
Hope you have a great day on Jah Man. It's a true classic!


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