|
justin_tw123
Feb 23, 2005, 8:19 AM
Post #1 of 23
(5788 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 15, 2004
Posts: 30
|
i have rad some stuff abot shoes and fit and the brands but i have a question about brand fit. i have a really wide foot and i need to know what if any brands make a wide foot specific shoe. i will comb through the post some more to make sure i didnt miss this as a previous topic. any help is mucho appreciated.
|
|
|
|
|
anykineclimb
Feb 23, 2005, 9:58 AM
Post #2 of 23
(5788 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 30, 2003
Posts: 3593
|
A lot of the shoe makers will state on their sites or catalogs what foot their shoe is best for.
I have a fairly wide foot and I've noticed Boreal and 5.10 are wider (most models) than other companies.
|
|
|
|
|
bumblie
Feb 23, 2005, 12:43 PM
Post #3 of 23
(5788 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 18, 2003
Posts: 7629
|
5.10 moccasyms. Get 'em tight. They stretch.
|
|
|
|
|
bandidopeco
Feb 23, 2005, 1:19 PM
Post #4 of 23
(5788 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 17, 2004
Posts: 257
|
The Madrock Frenzy Velcro has a wider then normal toe box, much wider then their other popular models. try it out
|
|
|
|
|
azrockclimber
Feb 23, 2005, 1:59 PM
Post #5 of 23
(5788 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 28, 2005
Posts: 666
|
5.10 moc's will stretch nicely..should work
|
|
|
|
|
bb
Feb 23, 2005, 3:01 PM
Post #6 of 23
(5788 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 31, 2004
Posts: 33
|
mythos fit my wide foot nicely
|
|
|
|
|
greenmachineman7
Feb 23, 2005, 3:07 PM
Post #7 of 23
(5788 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 29, 2004
Posts: 108
|
I'll second the mythos and mocs.
|
|
|
|
|
justin_tw123
Feb 24, 2005, 3:21 AM
Post #8 of 23
(5788 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 15, 2004
Posts: 30
|
hey thanks a bunck for the info. i have a follow up ?. i was stopping by my local rock gym (rocks and ropes of tucson) just to check it all out. they sold shoes there first time id seen shoes in person. i noticed that some were mor flat footed then others. what are the posi negi's about flat and turnd down toeboxes? thanks again.
|
|
|
|
|
pepsbandit
Feb 24, 2005, 3:33 AM
Post #9 of 23
(5788 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 4, 2004
Posts: 175
|
I've noticed Mammut has some seariously wide climbing shoes, the Extreme? slipper, I believe, too wide for me, but they look nice. I should say that they are widest in the heel.
|
|
|
|
|
mack_north
Feb 24, 2005, 4:26 AM
Post #10 of 23
(5788 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 8, 2005
Posts: 74
|
I have a foot like a pancake with a tail and the Mythos fit me just fine. Plus, they don't seem to funk up much - I can climb all day at Josh and then sip Cliquot from the shoe without wrinkling my nose.
|
|
|
|
|
anykineclimb
Feb 24, 2005, 4:28 AM
Post #11 of 23
(5788 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 30, 2003
Posts: 3593
|
In reply to: hey thanks a bunck for the info. i have a follow up ?. i was stopping by my local rock gym (rocks and ropes of tucson) just to check it all out. they sold shoes there first time id seen shoes in person. i noticed that some were mor flat footed then others. what are the posi negi's about flat and turnd down toeboxes? thanks again.
A downturned shoe focuses more power onto the toes. These might be too uncomfortable for a beginner. The 5.10 Mocasym is a nice flat, wide shoe. only "pronblem" might be they're pretty soft and your feet aren't too strong yet. Not a huge deal, just something to consider. Most beginner shoes are flat and board lasted which means they're stiff and have a thin midsole. You may want to asak the people at the shop these questions and they should be able to answer you and show you too.
|
|
|
|
|
crag_shwagger
Feb 24, 2005, 4:58 AM
Post #12 of 23
(5788 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 11, 2005
Posts: 142
|
old school 5.10s...feel like a bed room slipper...On Roids!
|
|
|
|
|
monkeyarm
Feb 24, 2005, 5:47 AM
Post #13 of 23
(5788 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 11, 2002
Posts: 323
|
I did a similar search for my brother cause he wears a 8.5 6E and if you are that extreme there is little help.
If your feet are just a little wide then you can bring any shoe to a shoe repair shop and they can widen them a half a size to a size
evolve will custom shoes and is very cooperative in helping you through them, there is another company tha makes custom shoes, but they are expensive and take forever
|
|
|
|
|
spid
Feb 24, 2005, 4:58 PM
Post #15 of 23
(5788 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 11, 2005
Posts: 3
|
I'll echo the 5.10's... tried on many an uber expensive shoe until I found the one's I have now, it's like night and day ...as with a girl, don't settle for something that doesn't really fit out of impatience lol :)
|
|
|
|
|
boadman
Feb 24, 2005, 5:18 PM
Post #16 of 23
(5788 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 7, 2003
Posts: 726
|
I've got flippers, the little foot measuring things don't even have my dimension, and I can't fit boreals at all. 5.10s stretch to fit, but then they explode after the first resole. La Sportiva all the way, muiras, and testarossa's are both pretty high volume.
In reply to: A lot of the shoe makers will state on their sites or catalogs what foot their shoe is best for. I have a fairly wide foot and I've noticed Boreal and 5.10 are wider (most models) than other companies. |
|
|
|
|
bg
Mar 4, 2005, 5:22 PM
Post #17 of 23
(5788 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 15, 2005
Posts: 2
|
I have pretty wide feet and I really like the feel of 5.10 anasazi velcros. The only problem is that I think 5.10's shoes aren't very durable (in comparison to LaSportiva).
|
|
|
|
|
azrockclimber
Mar 7, 2005, 1:45 PM
Post #18 of 23
(5788 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 28, 2005
Posts: 666
|
i think the katanas are pretty wide.
|
|
|
|
|
jcantor
Mar 8, 2005, 10:19 PM
Post #19 of 23
(5788 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 8, 2005
Posts: 18
|
I have a pretty wide and high volume/high instep foot and the scarpa reflex is great. I measure about a size 7.5 (my foot is 23 cm long) and I have a 39.5 shoe...probably could even wear a 39. The shoe is leather so it conforms/stretches nicely to the shape of your foot. The only problem I've had is that the heel is super deep, which makes the hold on my ankle great but my heel isn't up against the back of the shoe. Because of this, at first your toes will seem very cramped, but as the shoe stretches and your heel sits farther back in heel cup, the shoe will get much more comfortable and your heel with move farther back.
Also, I've tried on some boreals. I almost couldn't get the shoes on and once I did the length was fine but it was super tight on the top of my foot...They were synthetic too and would not stretch.
I've also tried on the mythos...and I don't know how anyone can consider that a wide shoe...
|
|
|
|
|
mattm
Mar 8, 2005, 10:38 PM
Post #20 of 23
(5788 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2003
Posts: 640
|
Every few months this post comes up and EVERY TIME I am amazed out how off people are on their "foot type".
In General: 5.10 shoes have a narrow last and fit narrow feet. (Mocasyms are the exception)
La Sportiva: generally run wider: Megas, Katanas, Miuras, Tesstarosa all are wider in the foot box than the equivalent 5.10 models. Sportiva does have narrow shoes though, namely the MYTHOS AND FOCUS. I have no idea how "wide footed" people wear the mythos since even reps state that the mythos is a narrow shoe. Perhaps they've worn them so long they've stretched?
I don't have a lot of experience with other brands but I own 14 pairs of shoes and have tried on many more and i KNOW i have a wide foot.
WIDES: 5.10 Mocasyms, 5.10 Spires, Sportiva Cliff, Sportiva Mega, Sportiva Katana, Sportiva Barracuda,
Med Wide: Sportiva Miura and Tesstarosa (They make the toes pointier than a katana so they're a little more snug)
Med: 5.10 Newton
Narrow (Based on the fact that when I put them on IN THE STORE the balls of my feet were being CRUSHED by the sides of the shoes)
Anything in the 5.10 Anasazi line (other than the mocs) Sportiva Focus (BRUTAL) and Sportiva Mythos (these are made of natural leather and stretch A LOT so if people take the pain for a while, I guess you might get a good fit - why bother though?)
|
|
|
|
|
climbhoser
Mar 8, 2005, 11:12 PM
Post #21 of 23
(5788 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 4, 2004
Posts: 210
|
mattm,
you're wrong. Just flat out wrong. I worked in a gear shop for a long time, AND I have a size 9 EEEE (yes, that's as wide as the sizer goes). I have never seen a foot as wide as mine, even on people who say they have the widest feet in the world. I'm an anomaly.
You're wrong because I don't care what Sportiva's catalog says, they're narrow and they suck and they pinch. Madrock's are worse. The only shoes I can wear stock are the Moccasym and the Anasazi Velcro. They're the only ones I can get on my feet! I tried the Mythos, but it was too narrow, just like a Sportiva should be and is.
I now climb exclusively on Anasazi Velcros and Moccasyms. I tried others, but they just won't get over my almost sixth toe. My old boss concurs with me (he's also a professional mountain guide AND has almost as wide feet as me). them's your choices
|
|
|
|
|
mattm
Mar 9, 2005, 12:21 AM
Post #22 of 23
(5788 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 20, 2003
Posts: 640
|
In reply to: mattm, you're wrong. Just flat out wrong. I worked in a gear shop for a long time, AND I have a size 9 EEEE (yes, that's as wide as the sizer goes). I have never seen a foot as wide as mine, even on people who say they have the widest feet in the world. I'm an anomaly. You're wrong because I don't care what Sportiva's catalog says, they're narrow and they suck and they pinch. Madrock's are worse. The only shoes I can wear stock are the Moccasym and the Anasazi Velcro. They're the only ones I can get on my feet! I tried the Mythos, but it was too narrow, just like a Sportiva should be and is. I now climb exclusively on Anasazi Velcros and Moccasyms. I tried others, but they just won't get over my almost sixth toe. My old boss concurs with me (he's also a professional mountain guide AND has almost as wide feet as me). them's your choices
Whoa - deep breath there. First off, I'm AGREEING with the mocs - they're great for wide feet (they stretch a lot because of the natural leather) 2nd - I work in a gear shop too! For a long time as well! So that point is moot.
3rd - Hell, with EEEE feet, of course Sportivas will feel narrow- almost ANYTHING will. I'm not basing my comments on the far end of the bell curve here - I'm talking "normal wide" not freakish wide.
4th - I've got several semi-pro climber friends that all wear katanas because the velcro asym is "too narrow" does that count like the mountain guide?
5th - You say madrocks are worse (more narrow) which is interesting because I'm pretty sure the madrocks and 5.10 are VERY SIMILAR in design and last which would make the VELCROS narrow too
5.5ish - Mythos feel narrow? OF COURSE - because LIKE I SAID - they are narrow. Jeez, RTFA
6th - Look at the other posts - katanas and miuras both get votes for "more room" etc. I'm stating what I have personally experienced as well as gotten as direct feedback from numerous people trying on and buying shoes. A majority of the people I've dealt with feel the same way.
Take a deep breath and calm down. I stand by my statements and sizing beliefs as do you yours. Ultimately, you need to try them on and see for yourself BUT, when people say a certain shoe fits their "wide" foot when I know said shoes just stretches well to ACCOMMODATE their foot - regardless if it really is wide or not, I prefer to voice my dissent with that opinion.
Heck - people - go to the store and just LOOK at the anasazi velcro and a katana and tell me which one is wider.
I'll even quote a source here - Climbing MAg 2004 Shoe Review
"Five Ten Anasazi Slipper, $100
Overall grade: B+
Target climbs: Steep bouldering and plastic climbing
Fit: Very asymmetric overall; medium heel; medium arch; narrow to medium toe box" This is of cource, the slipper version of the velcro shoe...
"La Sportiva Venom, $115
Overall grade: A
Target climbs: Steep sport routes and boulders, with an emphasis on hooking and scumming
Fit: Very asymmetric overall; medium to wide heel; medium, high arch; down-turned toe with a medium to wide toe box" This is based on the same last as the testarosa
Hmmmm?
|
|
|
|
|
climbhoser
Mar 9, 2005, 12:50 AM
Post #23 of 23
(5788 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 4, 2004
Posts: 210
|
Well, sorry if I came off brash. I am just really tired of people who don't know their ass about their wits speaking on this subject, and as someone who has had to suffer years and years of foot torture, especially my ten years in climbing shoes and twenty three years in ski boots, I am incredibly passionate about this subject....maybe too much so, sometimes. I have done all manner of things including heat stretching plastic mountaineering boots so I can just go fer a goddamned backpack!
Well, I know, like I said, what the companies and other folks have touted as for the shoes. However, as a TRUE wide footed monster I feel as though I have an honestly objective point of view. That point of view comes from a boatload of experience with different shoes, and I can honestly say the only shoes I would ever wear would be the Anasazi velcro and the Moccasym.
As for the Mad Rocks, they might be, like I said, touted to be the same design but I couldn't even get my foot in them. I actually bought a pair thinking they would break in, but after two days of torture I couldn't take it and returned them (thank you REI). to boot, I had to by 43s where I can usually get into a 41 or 41.5 in the Moccasym or Anasazi Velcro.
As for La Sportiva, especially the Venom, all I can say is PAIN!!!! Nothing hurts worse than the Muira on a wide foot, except maybe a Testarossa. Every wide footer I know agrees with me about the Anasazi Velcro and MOccasyms. It's funny, because we all got there the same way.
I had done oodles of research and was trying the shoes that were supposed to be the widest (like the ones you mention). One day a friend told me he was selling his Moccasyms for like 15 bucks, so I thought I'd try 'em on. They were a tad too stretched out for me, but they were wide!!!! they didn't hurt!!! So, I picked up a pair. After that I tried on tons of other shoes looking for something that would have more stability. I gave the La Sportiva line a shot again, including Muiras, and even tried the Focus (which is just a shitty shoe IMHO). I ended up returning everything until on a whim I tried the anasazi velcro. I thought if the Moccasym was good maybe 5.10 is good for wide feet all around the board. I was close, but the anasazi lace-up thwarted me, and I fit in that about like I fit in a Muira-not real well.
However, I'm on my 6th pair of Moccasyms and 3rd pair of Anasazi Velcros and have worn them from long routes in RMNP and Eldo to Tahquitz and Castle Crags and there's nothing better than these two shoes, hands down.
If you look Dean Potter has wider feet too, and he likes the same set-up (partly because he gets paid to).
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
