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What`s wrong with this belay anchor 1
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scottcody


Oct 19, 2003, 6:43 PM
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In reply to:
:shock: :shock: :shock:
HOLY SH#T!!!
I get chills looking at that!

With responses like these... this tread needs to be moved to Sport climbing forum.

:D
It could use some new webbing.


therelic


Oct 19, 2003, 7:27 PM
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I hope you contacted the "FA" before you took the "spirit of adventure" out of the climb and bolted it.


Partner philbox
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Oct 19, 2003, 7:42 PM
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In reply to:
I hope you contacted the "FA" before you took the "spirit of adventure" out of the climb and bolted it.

I`ll bite. we merely replaced the bad anchors with good ones. We left the entire 4 pitches as it was meant to be climbed, complete with runout crux. The FAist is no longer of this earth but perhaps we could have contacted him in the spirit world, know any good mediums? :lol:

None of the existing fixed pro apart from the belay anchors was touched. Some of those olde worlde soft iron pitons are way dodgy but seeing as there is opportunity to place modern gear, in particular Aliens we considered it would be sacrilege to pull those old relics.

This particular climb is quite an easy climb and now that the original route has been renovated and the topo updated it will now be enjoyed by many more people in safety. Most of the topo descriptions on this mountain were in serious need of updating. They could have all been written for one climb. Up corner to tree then to top and this was describing in some cases 6 pitches of climbing.


scottcody


Oct 19, 2003, 7:46 PM
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In reply to:
know any good mediums? :lol:

Miss Cleo... and I think she is free for the first minute or so

:D


shut_up_and_climb


Oct 19, 2003, 8:52 PM
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but curt, really, would you trust it with you life?


therelic


Oct 19, 2003, 9:22 PM
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I`ll bite.

Yep Phil, you sure did. Anyway it was nice that you photographed that pile of historical junk before you trashed it and replaced it with something safe.


Partner philbox
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Oct 20, 2003, 4:30 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I`ll bite.

Yep Phil, you sure did. Anyway it was nice that you photographed that pile of historical junk before you trashed it and replaced it with something safe.

Can you help me pull this hook out of mouth now. You might need a pair of plyers in there, I think it is stuck in my gills.


cthcrockclimber


Oct 20, 2003, 4:32 PM
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Pass the pistons pete?


danieladaniela


Mar 2, 2005, 2:11 AM
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It probably had been reasonably safe when placed.
I don't quite understand why this old topic showed up in my list, but anyway ;-)


jackhammer


Mar 2, 2005, 3:03 AM
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Insane. Five question marks.

?????


ajkclay


Mar 2, 2005, 4:58 AM
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Hey! I've seen a set up like that before... can't quite remember where, but as soon as the pic came up I knew I'd seen it.

Seems we have a serial valve basher going 'round.

Only climbing mechanic I know of is HB, but he wouldn't do something like that, would he?


dontmaytagme


Mar 2, 2005, 11:58 AM
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I think it is more disturbing that you used a valve stem. I may be wrong, but valve stems typically under go insane heat transformation. I would be unsure of trusting something like that. And i agree. I just might have cried if i had to see that on a climb.


t-dog
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Mar 2, 2005, 12:11 PM
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Re: What`s wrong with this belay anchor 1 [In reply to]
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that things bomber, clip and go, just don't look back.

But seriously, I've clipped really really ratty old slings on aid that were attached to something way back there in the crack that I couldn't see. Not much better than that solid looking piton IMHO


buckyllama


Mar 2, 2005, 12:16 PM
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I don't know how y'all operate in them down-under parts there, but here in the states we do it different. The way I see it you ruiend the character of that classic. The proper method would have been to find a half dozen soft-iron pitons, preferably pre-rust pitted, and bash them badly into any slight seam you could find around the anchor. The goal being to both provide more clip in points, and also to eliminate any possibility of placaing clean gear. That way the earstwhile leader gets to learn a thing or two about equilization of 6+ pieces of gear wihle being able to trust none of them.

Besides, that valve stem looks pretty bomber.


onbelay_osu


Mar 3, 2005, 9:11 AM
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wow someone actually clipped that....i would be puking my guts out if i had to run that out even 3 inches


crag_shwagger


Mar 3, 2005, 9:20 AM
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WHAT?!?!


sierrasnowsurfer


Mar 3, 2005, 9:34 AM
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quit your bitchen and clip your daisy..half the anchors on the classic routes in yosemite look like that... ;)

Good photo


baigot


Mar 8, 2005, 6:10 PM
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i used worst anchors than that one.

for example one fu%&! piton. why? īcause i have to.

if you donīt have nothing else to use...use your brain...errr...or your balls.

so...close your eyes and pray not to the anchor broke up. :)

I love Trad...it has this little adventurous things...

vicente


gastone


Mar 8, 2005, 6:47 PM
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The FAist is no longer of this earth...


Why does this not suprise me.


boardline22


Mar 8, 2005, 7:00 PM
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what century is that from?

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