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One week in Utah! What would you do?
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noell


Mar 10, 2005, 12:15 PM
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One week in Utah! What would you do?  (North_America: United_States: Utah: Salt_Lake_-_Utah_Counties: Rock_Canyon: Red_Slab)
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So you've got a week in Utah (my climbing trip this summer!). Specifically, around Maple Canyon. Looking for fun sport routes! Any grade, whatyda suggest?

Also, ideas for days off? I have never been out west before, for anything other than a day trip for a job interview. So, bring it on - I wanna see new and beautiful scenery, and make every moment count. Hikes? Day trips?

We'll be there in June/July. Thanks guys! I am already so excited!


noell


Mar 11, 2005, 9:51 AM
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Don't all post up at once! :lol:

I've seen a couple of people comment that this time in the summer will be really hot in Utah. Obviously, I am sure it'll be hot most anywhere in July. However, I've heard that the heat out there is really dry heat, so that it won't be unbearable (at least, not like it is sometimes here in July- welcome to east coast, southern humidity!).

Thoughts? Suggestions? :wink:


youmeanupthere


Mar 11, 2005, 10:06 AM
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convert to mormonism. hahahaha. sorry

depends on how much you are willing to drive. utah is a pretty big state - i think thats the state motto. there is plenty to do around maple but with a few hrs driving you can be in american fork or in the other direction zion or bryce canyon.


jg


Mar 11, 2005, 10:27 AM
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Noell,
Maple is a good summer area; the climbing is in narrow canyons where you can find shade even if its hot out, and the area is high enough that it stays a bit cooler . The climbing is lots of fun and there are routes at all grades; as usual, the harder you climb the more there is to do. The area is fairly compact; you can do lots of routes in a day and hit several different walls with just short walks from the campground. I cann't really suggest specific routes; I never pay too much attention to what things are called; just walk around, talk to people and get on what looks good to you. For camping, there are not a lot of camp sites and they can fill up; I think you can reserve campsites online; do a Google search to find the website. As for things to do in the vicinity, I doen't really know. I just go there, climb and head home to SLC. I suppose you can go look at the turkey farms (you will see what I mean). My impression is that it is not the most spectacular part of Utah. From Maple you are not to far from the climbing in American Fork, Joe's Valley bouldering is not too far away, and driving over to Moab to sightsee would be something I would do if I had never been to Utah before. Enjoy your trip.


litedawg


Mar 11, 2005, 10:29 AM
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maple caynon is in a somewhat remote section of the state. Beautiful mountains, streams and such. There is some fishing, hiking, mountain biking possibilities. If you are willing to travel a couple hours you can get to teh Provo-Orem-Spanish Fork metroplex and have access to anything a city would provide, parks, swimming pools, theatres, gear shops, etc.


live2climb


Mar 11, 2005, 10:37 AM
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get to moab and INDIAN CREEK awome climbing mostly trad wounderfull area and cannyonlands is right their on your days off go slacklining and cruze areound in brice cannyon zion is just south, to put it simply you need more time cauz Utah is increadable. i will be their in a litle whils to trar it up better get more time off
have fun


litedawg


Mar 11, 2005, 10:51 AM
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if you are willing and have the time to travel there is some of the most spectacular landscape and scenery in the world two to four hours south and west of Maple canyon area, but plan on making a full day or two of it. Zions, Bryce canyon, moab, are not close enough to run over to one afternoon.

That being said, it should be a mortal sin to visit Utah for any length of time and NOT see some of those places.


esallen


Mar 11, 2005, 11:20 AM
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Try Moab Utah, but make sure you pick shady routes whenever possible (ie. Wallstreet in late afternoon). Plus, the Big Bend Bouldering area is just 15min from Moab. Tons of sweet trad, sport and bouldering in the Moab area.

If you prefer granite or limestone over sandstone, try the Salt Lake area. There are at least 4 or 5 MAJOR climbing areas within a 1hr drive of Salt Lake City.

What is your favorite rock and style? Maybe we can recommend something more specific to your taste.

Eric


noell


Mar 11, 2005, 11:24 AM
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The group I am travelin' with is mainly of the sport climbing type, and not big into climbing cracks. I know, what a waste, but it's just not a skill we've honed here, climbing what we climb.

So... looking for sport, we will be there for about 9 days, will want to take a few days off and do non-climbing sight seeing stuff. While climbing, steep is fun. :-) Anything from 5.10-hard .13's, looking for a range of stuff for the group. Higher concentrations is of course better.

We are open minded to rock type, we climb on both granite and sandstone here.

Thanks everyone!! Man, I am so psyched!


esallen


Mar 11, 2005, 11:24 AM
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Best sport-climbing areas in Utah (in my oppinion):

American Fork Canyon
Maple Canyon
Saint George

Eric


atg200


Mar 11, 2005, 11:36 AM
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i would skip the moab and st george area - it will be hotter than hell there.

an excellent summer sport climbing area is the uintahs, especially around ruth lake. good congolomerate, steep, and everything from 5.6 - 5.13 the elevation is pretty high, so it stays very cool.

there are a ton of good hikes in the area. the wasatch around salt lake are pretty spectacular - check out the trails on lone peak(the climbing is superb, but all trad), the pfeiferhorn, twin peaks, timpanogos, etc. deseret peak in the stansbury range west of salt lake is a very pretty hike, much less crowded, and there is some limestone sport climbing of unknown quality along the road near the trailhead.


outdoorclimber


Mar 11, 2005, 11:56 AM
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Maple is awesome! Try out box canyon, and Bridge area for great climbing and no approach. Pipe dream is also good, but it's quite the hike and the routes are mostly 12 and 13.
If you are going to check out AF canyon, it would be worth your while to go to Mountains Works. Talk to Darren, Jeff, or Matt. They're the pioneers of UT sport climbing. They can tell you where all the unknown classics are; and how to avoid some very very sketchy university students.
That said, Utah is great! Some crazy mormons, (but they can be pretty cool) and awesome climbing is always a good combo for a great trip.


ddriver


Mar 14, 2005, 2:06 PM
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For summer sport climbing other than Maple, AF and the Uintas are both good options, depending on the weather. If its not too hot, AF is easier for you to get in and out of. If it is hot, the crags in the Uintas off the Mirror Lake Highway have some great climbing (quartzite, not conglomerate). Haven't been there, but there is supposed to be some good sportclimbing and bouldering east of Cedar City near Brian Head. This, like the Uintas, would probably want warm weather for the snow to clear out.


redpointron


Mar 14, 2005, 2:22 PM
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noell....

maple is truly an everymans climbing area. if you are looking for anything from .10 to .13...it's there (and pretty close together). the left fork has some pretty nice, mellow stuff (good intro to climbing on cobbles). the box canyon has a great concentration of harder stuff.

as far as logistics, we got a shower at the college in ephraim. good pizza place in town too. joe's valley isn't but an hour or so away, so bring your pads and do some bouldering too.

have fun. like outdoor climber said, check out the quarry and mountainworks in provo for any guidebooks and info.

r.r.


brianinslc


Mar 14, 2005, 2:33 PM
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A short diversion from sports climbing in Maple would be to head to Zion for some canyoneering...several venues to choose from, most pretty cool that time of year, maybe some swimming, nice change from climbing but still some adventure. Try Outdoor Outlet in St. George, Mountain Shop in Cedar City, Zion Rock or Zion Adventure in Springdale for beta/gear.

I'll ditto the quartzite in the Uintas as a fun spot to climb as well, and coolish that time of year. Watch for afternoon t-showers.

You can get to Joes pretty quick from Maple by driving to Fairview and over then down Huntington Canyon. Might be a tad toasty at Joes for bouldering, though. Triassic bouldering isn't too far either, but, also could be quite warm.

Also some closer (to Maple) sport climbing in Santaquin Canyon. Ask Mountain Works in Provo for beta.

-Brian in SLC


tenesmus


Mar 14, 2005, 3:09 PM
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listen to Brian.


screamer


Mar 16, 2005, 10:52 AM
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Classics in Maple Canyon

The Box Stay away from the 10's in Box they suck...there are also some 12+/13- on the ammo dump wall...
Devils Plaything 11a
Watermelon Sugar 11c
Griptease 12a
Point Blank 12b
Pasties in a G-String 11d
Lucky Boy 12b
Towing Jehovah 12b
Ribonucleic Convulsions 12d
Loser 13a

The Bridge Area: Some great 11-'s

Left Fork: Really good long 9's/10-'s at the Orangatang Wall and also some short steep stuff at Pipeline. The juggy 11b is fun, and some of the new 12's are good.

Matrix Wall: Have only been on a few here, but there is a really good 90ft mid 11.

Minimum Wall: These should not be missed.
Zoaster Toaster 12a
49 12b
Space Lords 12d

Pipedream Cave:
Solstice 11c super good
The 11d's are good
Dry Times 12b unique crack
The no name 12c left of dry times, excellent
Deliverance is really good 12
Diggler is a classic 13a
And tons of other harder stuff

Enjoy


derklee


Mar 16, 2005, 11:10 AM
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I would have to agree that the best sport places in Utah are in AF canyon. There's plenty of shade and plenty of climbs. It gets a bit crowded at times, but it's worth it. St. George is slam packed full of good sport climbs too. Get down there if you can. If you can't, Maple Canyon is still great as well. Have fun.


derklee


Mar 16, 2005, 11:11 AM
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I would have to agree that the best sport places in Utah are in AF canyon. There's plenty of shade and plenty of climbs. It gets a bit crowded at times, but it's worth it. St. George is slam packed full of good sport climbs too. Get down there if you can. If you can't, Maple Canyon is still great as well. Have fun.


rocknpowda


Mar 16, 2005, 11:37 AM
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If you are going to be here mid summer, the areas I would hit are maple canyon, Little Cottonwood Canyon (lots of cool new sport routes up on the hellgates and multipitch sport on devils castle. Take a ride up the Snowbird tram and walk over Mt. Baldy to alta and back to your car for a nice non-climbing activity), Big Cottonwood, American Fork Canyon, Ruth Lake in the Uintas, and Logan Canyon.

Maple is about a 2 hour drive from Salt Lake City. From there it is an hour and 15 minutes to American Fork. From there it is about 1 hour to the top of Little Cottonwood Canyon. From there it is about 45 minutes to the climbing in Big Cottonwood, From there it is about 2 hours to Ruth lake in the Uintas. and from there it is about 2 hours to logan canyon. From there it is about 1.5 hours back to Salt Lake City.

All of these places have forest service campgrounds nearby but you may want to make reservations for the ones near salt lake city and for the weekend. I think you can reserve them on www.reserveusa.com. You could climb all day everyday and still make it to the next area that afternoon or evening. Or climb in the morning and afternoon/evening and drive between crags in the heat of the day. It is light until about 9pm in the middle of the summer so there will be plenty of time to climb.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you want to rent a VW Westy for your trip we give a 10% climbers discount and we'll pick you up at the airport. www.westernroadtrips.com.


thetroutscout


Mar 16, 2005, 6:03 PM
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Drive the 1 1/2 from SLC to the Unita Mountain range. Tons of new routes going up and breathtaking views of high elevation mountains. In the summer the weather is perfect even when its super hot in the valley. You can camp near by. The only drawback is the frequent mountain thunderstorms. There's a new guide book to the area as well.

^^ike


seanb


Mar 16, 2005, 6:25 PM
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Noell, go to Maple for sure. It is unlike anything else and just plain fun. American Fork is fun and conveinent to SLC. Drop down to Moab and top out Castelton Tower. While there, check out nearby Mill Creek for a cool craggin' experience. Given that your travelling in the summer, note that The stuff in the Uintas offers great climbing and fantastic scenery in a high mountain environment.


delarig


Mar 16, 2005, 7:22 PM
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Rock Canyon is relatively close to Maple. It has a lot of fun stuff. Sport, multi-pitch, trad, even a little bouldering.


simplesoul


Mar 16, 2005, 7:33 PM
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Id climb but thats just me....other than that go to caynon lands its BEAUTIFUL!..ill be out there march 25 26 and 27 and march 26 is my b-day its going to be AWSOME...but anyway. the desert rocks (no pun intended)


enjoy....


builttospill


Mar 16, 2005, 8:18 PM
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Non-climbing stuff:
Visit Escalante or Canyonlands National Park. Or Zion's. Or Bryce Canyon. All those areas are beautiful, and could take weeks to explore by themselves, so you'll have to be very choosy. If you have ANY interest in getting into canyoneering, go to Zion's. Do the Narrows if you can (if you're new to it). If you've done some of it before you might want something more challenging, but there are tons of slot canyons in southern utah. Something along those lines is nice though. It will be hot as hell in southern Utah in summer though.

There are plenty of nice scenic drives, so if you're totally beat and don't want to hike or anything, you could consider driving the Alpine Loop near Provo, the Nebo Scenic Loop near Payson, UT (20 mins south of provo) and tons of other stuff. There are roads around the Uintas that are also beautiful. What I recommend is some good off-roading and then hiking. Go up American Fork Canyon in a jeep or truck (or even a passenger car, you'll be fine as long as you're not too protective of your car) and just drive on any number of dirt trails. You can have great views of snowbird/alta/little cottonwood canyon, as well as the heber valley and utah valley. Lots of stuff up there.

You could also go offroading in southern Utah or in the West Desert (five mile pass west of Lehi, UT is very popular, but I think it's crowded in summer. I'm not sure, I've never been there except in fall, and only to run.

There's not much in the way of culture and stuff that I would really recommend you drive all the way to SLC to experience. Maybe if you want to see mormons and mormon history type of stuff, but I'm gonna guess that's not your interest.

Climb any of the Wasatch peaks as a day hike for truly outstanding views. Mount Timpanogos, Cascade Peak (my personal favorite, very little foot traffic even in summer), Lone Peak, Pfeifferhorn, Mount Superior, Gobbler's Knob, etc. These are the more rugged mountains of Utah, and the views are great.

As for actual climbing, I have never climbed at all in the Uintas, but I've spent some time fly fishing, hiking and camping there. It is your best bet for cooler temperatures during the summer BY FAR. My brother in law was caught in a snowstorm on a high alpine lake there in early August. DEfinitely the coolest place in teh state. I know nothing about the climbing though. Beware of afternoon thunderstorms though, they roll in frequently and can be fairly dangerous if you're near the ridgeline.

Supposedly there is a road in either American Fork CAnyon, Provo Canyon or Little Cottonwood Canyon that climbs basically to the top of the Lone Peak/Pfeifferhorn ridge (that separates Am Fork CAnyon and Little Cottonwood Canyon) that has absolutely tremendous views. I have yet to find it though.

Hope that gives you some interesting ideas. There are tons of other adventures in Utah too.......swimming holes, mountain biking (Payson Canyon is nice and a bit closer to Maple Canyon than some other popular areas near SLC), 4-wheeling, etc. Hell, I'm building a rope swing near Provo so if you want to come up and hit that up, let me know, haha.

There is also world class paragliding and hang gliding at Point of the Mountain just south of SLC. I think Soar Utah (a company) does lessons or one day sessions where they'll take you up. I want to do that this spring. Might be kind of pricey though.


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