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rwaltermyer


Jun 24, 2002, 3:41 PM
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BETA & Revitalizing Chickies.....  (North_America: United_States: Pennsylvania: Southeastern_Region: Chickies_Rock)
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[I renamed this Post because it's topic kinda shifted from one thing (beta) to another (Scrubbing routes)]

Well,
I kinda get annoyed at everyone making such a hype about Chickies. Everyone looking for BETA, BETA, BETA. Well, in case you beta-hunters haven't noticed, Our DBase is probably all the beta you ever would need (except for the exceptional bouldering in the cave) and all the beta you'd want for a place that-- to me-- seems overrated because the climbing quality is horrible. You don't even have to think about footholds on the main wall.

Well, considering the other access nightmares that fellow Lancaster climbing is facing, I guess climbers, especially TRAD guys, seem nice and cozy at good 'ol Chickies.



[ This Message was edited by: rwaltermyer on 2002-08-05 18:35 ]

[ This Message was edited by: rwaltermyer on 2002-08-05 18:43 ]


climbinganne


Jul 22, 2002, 7:14 AM
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  You are clueless....there are tons of routes (I'm guessing over 75)!! Hugh Herr made first ascents on at least 20 and i gotta give eric horst credit for many of them too. Sure many of them havent been climbed for years and are in desperate need of cleaning...so rwalter...can you get your ass up a 12d and lead while cleaning the route at the same time?? I can try to follow. If not, stop trashing a place that is still friendly to the local climbers and "where everybody knows your name" Dont take this too personally...are we gonna clean some routes together????



[ This Message was edited by: climbinganne on 2002-07-22 09:23 ]


rwaltermyer


Jul 22, 2002, 5:07 PM
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frankly, though. the rock quality is the pits. so much of it was blasted or chiseled.


rwaltermyer


Jul 22, 2002, 5:08 PM
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some one needs to find a flame shooter left over from 'Nam to clean that place. Let me know when.


climbinganne


Jul 22, 2002, 5:33 PM
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    I went to post again earlier...but the damn site went down again...but to comment on the last thing you said, yes, a fire blaster would come in handy...if anyone has any agent orange we could get it done quickly.

the face was blasted randy by the railroad. You said of the main wall "You don't even have to think about footholds" ....dah, the ratings are from 5.3 to 5.7...perfect for beginning trad climbers to hone their skills!! You must walk by the rock when going to the main wall, the climbs around the corner, from the main wall are beautiful routes 5.8 to 5.13...if you'd get outta the cave and look up you would see them..

and this site sucks for beta on chickies!!!
a lot of it is WRONG..i had to change wrong ratings...making things harder are we??? and the routes aren't even in the right areas, solution crack IS NOT on the main wall...a lot of work to be done. I hope all of my local climbing friends will all join in to help be a part of the "solution". As I said before Randy, we be cool...lets get Chickie's Back...Scrub brushes or steel wool and a lot of weed/moss-away!!!!

[ This Message was edited by: climbinganne on 2002-07-22 17:48 ]


mitchal


Jul 22, 2002, 6:38 PM
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Hey Randy,
I've climbed at Chickies a few times.The best routes are away from the main wall,in the woods.There is also Lots of bouldering there,I know you dig bouldering.
The place does need to be cleaned and polished,let's get some of us here together and do some work!
I'm sure Anne would be up for it,I would be.
Well,how bout it?Quitcher bitchin and lets do something!
Climb Happy
Mitch

[ This Message was edited by: mitchal on 2002-07-22 18:41 ]


climbinganne


Jul 22, 2002, 7:39 PM
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  What is everyone doing on Saturday????


rwaltermyer


Aug 5, 2002, 6:05 AM
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Please excuse me, if my initial comments came off harsh...but yeah, I'd love to revitalize Chickies. Perhaps my lack of love for Chickies is because I've never been on the harder routes (better?) above the bouldering cave. I'd love to go out and give them a try!

The climber from Georgia really summed it up, we have an awesome spot right here, and considering the access problems at Safe Harbor and Sex Wall, it makes a WHOLE lot of sense to fine tune and SCRUB up what we do have! I'm all for it!

As for beta, i'm not much (or not all) of a rater of climbs. Forgive me if what I heard is not what actually is out there. I'm just trying to post some beta for climbers to enjoy.

So lets get to it!
Randy



rwaltermyer


Aug 6, 2002, 12:26 PM
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I spoke to Eric Horst about this and this is what he had to say:
Yeah, we're working on that...both cleaning up Chickies and updating the guide.
I grew up there and I can tell you straight up there are only about 20
worthwhile climbs, and only about half of those are clean down. But there is a
lot of grass-covered 5.3s if you are into that!

There you have it. I'm up for cleaning 'em up!


peanutbutterandjelly


Aug 6, 2002, 4:48 PM
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I would like to comment about the guide. A guide is being made. I know this for a fact because I took the photos for it. There are a few old guides floating around. If you come around one of these old guides the route descriptions are good, but a lot of the landmarks to find the climbs are no longer there. A new guide is coming.
PBJ


rwaltermyer


Aug 6, 2002, 5:21 PM
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Who is planning to publish this?
The Lancaster Climbing Club? PAC? Others?


peanutbutterandjelly


Aug 7, 2002, 5:49 PM
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I do not know who is going to publish the guide? I know that Alan a member of the LCC is writing where the routes start and Eric's descriptions are going to be used.
PBJ


rwaltermyer


Aug 7, 2002, 6:47 PM
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perhaps you should let eric know, check out his website TrainingforClimbing.com cause better two heads in one, than two books.

Randy


climbinganne


Aug 7, 2002, 7:58 PM
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  yeah....well they have been talking that sh*t for years.....tell Alan , annie says hi!!!! and Sorry it's been so long since i've climbed on his rope....


peanutbutterandjelly


Aug 9, 2002, 12:27 PM
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Eric knows of this. And I will tell Alan hi.
PBJ


rwaltermyer


Aug 12, 2002, 4:20 AM
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Whats you opinion on revitalizing Chickies?
Worth while?
Randy


climbinganne


Aug 12, 2002, 6:31 AM
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thanks PBJ!!!!!! anne

ps...tell Harry i send my love too!!!!!!


peanutbutterandjelly


Aug 12, 2002, 7:20 AM
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Sorry Anne I did not see Alan or Harry this weekend, but the next time I see them I will say hi for you.
PBJ


rwaltermyer


Aug 12, 2002, 7:27 AM
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OK, now that we've said our HI's and GOODBYE's. What about the ROCK?! Worth time? Scrubbing?


climbinganne


Aug 12, 2002, 8:08 AM
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hahahahahaha...dude...i offered a way long ago...and no one showed up that saturday at chickies rock...seems to me you are all talk and no scrub...PM me let's set up a date...maybe this saturday???, but if i show up with scrub brushes in hand and you no show...hmmmmm????

edit: to add....

PBJ...and the rest of the locals i have not yet climbed with or the ones i know and love...how about some climbing on sunday at birdsboro....i need to work myself for and upcoming trip out west....any takers????

[ This Message was edited by: climbinganne on 2002-08-12 08:12 ]


rwaltermyer


Aug 12, 2002, 7:10 PM
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Anne....
I need more time to pencil a day in like that, plus we should pass the word around to get as many as possible.

How about setting a day up for the fall when we wont have to be hanging off the rock in 90 degree weather?

Randy


peanutbutterandjelly


Aug 12, 2002, 7:38 PM
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Are you talking about Sunday the 18th? If you are, I am sorry. I have to work the weekend. I am free Monday.
PBJ


farmerc


Aug 12, 2002, 7:53 PM
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Anne~
Chickies is my home (climbing wise). It is close so getting a ride is no problem. And i love it, i am learning to lead trad and am looking forward to climbing upwards on all of the rest of what i have only bouldered beneath. When i get my license (yeah, i'm a young'un) i plan to do a lot more chickies cleanup on my spare time. starting with all the trash and glass on the ground. I'd love to help clean routes sometime, cause maybe you could show me some easier leads away from the main wall when we clean. talk to y'all later.
~Chris

P.S. to PB&J, I did see you on Saturday, but you seemed like you were talking home walls with mark Himmelfarb, and I didn't want to interupt. climb on~ Chris


snapier


Aug 12, 2002, 8:29 PM
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I'd be up for coming to Chickies to do some cleanup. Not sure about weekends in the near future, but if you guys set a date I can try my best to make it then...

I've actually never been to Chickies (it's somewhat near Elizabethtown right?) and would love to check it out...


farmerc


Aug 12, 2002, 8:35 PM
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south of e-town about 15 min (by car)

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