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pestilence
Jun 25, 2002, 5:46 AM
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Registered: Jan 12, 2002
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When placing cams in a vertical crack in order to place the cam with the direction of pull in mind is it preferred to have the cam running in line with the crack or with the stem angled slightly out from the face to compensate for any out ward pull?
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apollodorus
Jun 25, 2002, 5:55 AM
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Registered: Feb 18, 2002
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The stem should be directed vertical, or along the direction of the face for a slab. There is almost no outward pull during a fall, unless the crack is overhanging. Another thing, if you insert the cam with the stem out at an angle, and it rotates down during a fall, the inner two cams will move further into the crack. This can fix the cam for good if the fit is tight.
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bigwalling
Jun 25, 2002, 5:57 AM
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Registered: Dec 29, 2001
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Just go aid a crack and you will have this dialed.
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bmgard
Jun 25, 2002, 6:07 AM
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Registered: Apr 24, 2002
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I place the cam just barely out. If the wall is 90 degress you won't end up perficly under the cam you will be just a touch out. Of course every placement is different so you have to evaluate all the different factores every time you make a placement.
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pestilence
Jun 25, 2002, 6:20 AM
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Registered: Jan 12, 2002
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Thanks for your info I appreciate it
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radistrad
Jun 26, 2002, 2:25 PM
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Registered: Feb 25, 2002
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Ah I love placing cams, the only reason I climb to to play with the cool gear!
Place your cam with the stem facing in the direction of pull, downward in your case. It is not 100% necessary to have that cam dead vertical, you can have a bit of an angle on it, but keep that to a minimum!
Yes your cam can and will rotate, place liberal runners on your placements. Looks for constriction in the crack you can often palace a cam in the crack then move it into a constriction, this in the most bomber placement you can get with a cam.
Pratice makes perfect.
Dont forget to have to cam about 70% compressed and dont over compress them as that will turn them into booty!
Hope this helps!
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mreardon
Jun 26, 2002, 7:02 PM
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Registered: Jun 17, 2002
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I agree with BigWallin that you should do a run of aid. It makes you more comfortable on the placement of cams, and teaches you quickly about directionals and how your climbing above them affects the pull. Except in extreme cases, always put the cam in the direction of the fall. Remember, they are there to protect you from falling, placing them in any other direction will only allow them to move which is not what you want while heading off into the flight zone.
Just my two cents....
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