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wolfman31
Mar 15, 2005, 7:08 AM
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I'm working my way up to climbing outdoors and I'm looking for suggestions on a good first climb. I would like to find a place that has good height but also has some decents holds. I'm comfortable with most 5.11's in the gym and will have all the required gear by spring. I don't want to climb a crack and I prefer it to be bolted. If you know of such a place please let me know. All I can think of in this region with rock and a mountain is Hamilton and I really
hope that isn't it.
Thanks
Wolfman
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tradrenn
Mar 16, 2005, 12:06 AM
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Lots of staff man
1 If you want to trad then get the book "The Escarpement" about $20.00
lots of trad routs
2 Second book is " A Sport Climbers Guide to Ontario Limestone" this one for $21.00
Now
Both books are not that great but it is all we got ( for now )
You may also check this site under Routes, Canada then Ontario.
Little hint when you get there ( names of areas where we climb) Buffolo Crag, Rattlesnake Point, Mt. Nemo.
At Mt. Nemo is a bunch of sport climbs like:
-Stand and Deliver 5.11a
-Live Bait 5.10a
-Wishbone 5.11a
-As you like it 5.10c
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tradrenn
Mar 16, 2005, 12:06 AM
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Lots of staff man
1 If you want to trad then get the book "The Escarpement" about $20.00
lots of trad routs
2 Second book is " A Sport Climbers Guide to Ontario Limestone" this one for $21.00
Now
Both books are not that great but it is all we got ( for now )
You may also check this site under Routes, Canada then Ontario.
Little hint when you get there ( names of areas where we climb) Buffolo Crag, Rattlesnake Point, Mt. Nemo.
At Mt. Nemo is a bunch of sport climbs like:
-Stand and Deliver 5.11a
-Live Bait 5.10a
-Wishbone 5.11a
-As you like it 5.10c
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tradrenn
Mar 16, 2005, 12:10 AM
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If you go please go with somebody who knows the area and is experienced. Ok ?
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wolfman31
Mar 17, 2005, 8:48 PM
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So it looks like Nemo will be it. I doubt I'll be going with an experienced crew. Maybe a couple of friends who are worse than I am.
I had no idea there was such nice rock close to the city.
What kind of height can I expect ? I'm hoping for at least 100ft.
If there any first time outdoor climbers out there that want to come or a pro to babysit just PM me. Have SUV. Will drive.
WM
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*thriller*
Deleted
Mar 17, 2005, 9:20 PM
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Well, first of all, I don't think it's a great idea for you to be leading with less experienced climbers the first time you touch real rock. you should probably be top-roping a couple routes first, which means Mt. Nemo is a no-no. Toproping there is banned because it will destroy the natural vegetation that's barely surviving there as it is. Your best bet is to find someone with some experience and do some toproping somewhere like Rattlesnake Point or Buffalo Crag. The vegatation there is alrady destroyed, but don't touch the cedar trees anyways, they're ancient and endangered. Once you get some more experience then maybe try some other stuff.
It can't be stressed enough how different it is between the gym and outside. Just because you can pull down 5.11 on plastic doesn't mean you can do it outside. Find someone from your gym to take you out for an afternoon and show you some TR anchor building, or let you follow them up an easy trad route.
Also a word about the crags, there's a few places around Milton (rattlesnake, buffalo, nemo) that have decent trad and TRing, but not much sport. There's some sport at Nemo but it's all moderate-hard and spread out. Also none of the crags are more than about 70-100' high, which is good, because most ropes are about 100' so you can TR those routes. When you get better, there's a good number of Sport routes a few hours away (all single pitch) and some multi-pitch trad up at Bon Echo, but you shouldn't be going near that rock for a few years.
I don't want to crush your dreams or anything, but if you think you're going to buy some gear and go out to the crag and know what you're doing, you're going to be one of those people we write "You'll never believe what this one kid was doing" stories about.
Find a mentor and learn from them - and be safe.
Ian
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hoppinbig
Mar 17, 2005, 10:15 PM
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In reply to: At Mt. Nemo is a bunch of sport climbs like: -Stand and Deliver 5.11a -Live Bait 5.10a -Wishbone 5.11a -As you like it 5.10c
Nothing like recommending 2 11's and a 10c as first climbs outside... way to go Tradrenn :shock:
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tradrenn
Mar 18, 2005, 4:57 PM
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Few of us will be at Rattlasnke Point West Cliff this Saturday and Sunday so come on over and try top roping lets say 5.6 or 5.6 sounds good.
P.S. Last year this one polish guy lead the Live Bait 5.10a and that was his first lead ever but we got 4 experienced guys with us and one of them ( from US ) did like 10 big walls. That's how it should be done. and we pre cliped first 3 bolts for the polish guy.
I also recomended easy climbs. ( the escarpemant book )
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tradrenn
Mar 18, 2005, 5:03 PM
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In reply to: Nothing like recommending 2 11's and a 10c as first climbs outside... way to go Tradrenn :shock:
Didn't I recomended going with somebody who knows the area and is more axperienced than him ?
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ecocliffchick
Mar 18, 2005, 5:20 PM
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You really want someone who's been to Nemo before with you when you go looking for the climbs. The cliff is accessed from above and requires some 5.0 downclimbs to get to the majority of the sport routes. They are also tricky to spot from above if you don't know what you are doing.
Another thing to think about is weather. Rattlesnake and Buffalo get sun - Nemo does not. It will be damn cold at Nemo for the next couple of months. Also, right after winter is when spring thaw=falling rock is likely to occur. Rattlesnake has been climbed to death and has much less loose stuff to worry about.
In my opinion Nemo is the place to be - but for your first time outside, probably not.
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wolfman31
Mar 20, 2005, 12:25 AM
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In reply to: Few of us will be at Rattlasnke Point West Cliff this Saturday and Sunday so come on over and try top roping lets say 5.6 or 5.6 sounds good.
It was something like -4 today. I was thinking of waiting for another month or two.
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