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draws = cheap biners?
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seth05


Mar 19, 2005, 10:15 PM
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draws = cheap biners?
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Hi
I think slacklining sounds like alot of fun :D I'd like to try it, but all the equipment is pretty expesive, not really I know but it adds up to quite a few bucks.
So I was wondering if I could just seperate a few draws in order to get to a few biners since the draws are cheaper (ebay) as the biners themselves.
Or would it be too dangerous or something?

thx,
seath


kobaz


Mar 19, 2005, 10:47 PM
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Re: draws = cheap biners? [In reply to]
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Many people use climbing biners for slacklining. Most slacklining kits come with climbing biners. So, if you want to go the cheap route, quickdraw biners would be fine.


Partner slacklinejoe


Mar 20, 2005, 1:45 AM
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Re: draws = cheap biners? [In reply to]
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FYI: Pagan gear is running a special on quickdraws right now. I think it was 7.95 for a wiregate or normal gate quickdraw.

The key to remember here is that slackline biners should NOT be reused for climbing or life saving purposes. Hanging your nalgene on you harness, sure - but high static loads that slacklines put on biners is a bad thing when they have to absorb shocks from falls and such later.

Also, depending on your need, a pre-made kit can be cheaper - pre-made slacklines cost anywhere from $25 to around $200.


Partner coldclimb


Mar 20, 2005, 4:53 AM
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Re: draws = cheap biners? [In reply to]
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Does anyone have any info on whether slacklining makes biners weaker? I know everyone says to designate some biners for slacking just to be safe, but is there any evidence?

In answer to the original question, yeah any old biner is fine for a slackline. I usually use biners I've bootied.


Partner slacklinejoe


Mar 20, 2005, 5:04 AM
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The best I can give is the opinion of engineers from carabiner manufacturers, OP and BD. They all said it was a bad idea to reuse them - apparently its one thing to test them for a short period at a high static load (ie, half strength test) but quite another to hold that load on it for a few hours.


livingtheedge


Mar 21, 2005, 8:32 PM
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Re: draws = cheap biners? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Does anyone have any info on whether slacklining makes biners weaker? I know everyone says to designate some biners for slacking just to be safe, but is there any evidence?

Im not sure if its actual evidence but the last time I rigged a line the biners i used actually streched and the gates will no longer open. I couldnt use them for climbing even if i wanted to.


Partner slacklinejoe


Mar 21, 2005, 10:56 PM
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Re: draws = cheap biners? [In reply to]
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Carabiners are supposed to stretch and it is normal for them to not be able to be opened while under load (greater than body weight).

They are however, supposed to go back to normal shape after unweighting them. Anytime you've fully distorted a carabiner, it has taken permanent damage.

BTW, was this line super tight or something? I've never had a carabiner permanently distort on a normal line. If you don't mind, what was the brand and specs?


Partner coldclimb


Mar 22, 2005, 2:01 AM
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Re: draws = cheap biners? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
BTW, was this line super tight or something? I've never had a carabiner permanently distort on a normal line. If you don't mind, what was the brand and specs?

Yeah really, I've never heard of this either. Interesting story... Tell us more!


gymslackerclimber


Mar 22, 2005, 6:32 PM
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Re: draws = cheap biners? [In reply to]
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hey all, i have a question, what does BTW mean?


Partner slacklinejoe


Mar 22, 2005, 6:36 PM
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In reply to:
hey all, i have a question, what does BTW mean?
By The Way.


montafoner


Mar 22, 2005, 6:46 PM
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Re: draws = cheap biners? [In reply to]
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BTW = brown tite woman, or
BTW = better than waiting, or
BTW = best tied waterknot, or
BTW = by the way

It all depends on the context.


jeremy11


Mar 22, 2005, 7:54 PM
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Re: draws = cheap biners? [In reply to]
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so if slackline biners shouldn't be used for climbing, what about when big wall climbers hang their portaledge and a few hundred pounds of gear and two or three people off a gear anchor (hopefully several) which of course includes biners? since the anchor elements would be under more than body weight for an extended time.


Partner slacklinejoe


Mar 22, 2005, 8:00 PM
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Re: draws = cheap biners? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
so if slackline biners shouldn't be used for climbing, what about when big wall climbers hang their portaledge and a few hundred pounds of gear and two or three people off a gear anchor (hopefully several) which of course includes biners? since the anchor elements would be under more than body weight for an extended time.

There is a huge difference between a slackline load, and a few hundred pounds of gear. One of the guys I talked to about the biners said a biner won't usually stretch enough to lock the gate until it's around 300-450 lbs and I think that's about right by my observations.

On a moderately tight slackline, it will be stretch tight enough to lock the gate before you even get on the line. Thanks to the vectors and such at work the angle amplifies the weight on the line a lot, like up to 1,500 lbs of pull (a number one of the guys with an inline dynometer mentioned in another thread).


oasis27alh


Apr 23, 2005, 9:40 PM
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Re: draws = cheap biners? [In reply to]
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you only need two biners to slackline. so it shouldn't be a big deal to fork over two from your rack and slackline.


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