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dan4183
Mar 29, 2005, 4:59 AM
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Evidently, while Sharma and cronies were in Arkansas he put up a roof problem that he says is the hardest boulder problem he has done. He likens the moves to esperanza (V14) in hueco, only saying that this problem is 3 times as long with a harder crux that is later in the problem. There is a small piece about it on bigupproductions.com in the extras section, check it out. The stills of the crux are INSANE. Considering he has sent V15, makes you wonder what the grade is..
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arostecrux
Mar 29, 2005, 5:15 AM
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Shut the hell up and quit spraying about Arkansas, especially when you don't even live there. You live in MISSOURI and the other guy wearing the "IM a SHARMA FAN" banner is from KANSAS. You don't live in Arkansas yet you are the only ones making noise? Doesn't make sense. Okay you roadtrip down there on your time off, crowd the crags, and then tell everyone else in the online universe about it. Sharma can climb hard, really really hard. Good. Great.
Respect the ethics and the low profile. Just keep the spray to yourself. You can ruin something that doesn't even belong to you....
hmm..the locals are mysteriously quiet on this issue i wonder.....if they even care?
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livingtheedge
Mar 29, 2005, 5:29 AM
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Wow you have a bug up your ass and the only spray here is your own. I didnt realize that you had to live in a State in order to talk about it. Oh shit I better not mention Red Rocks anymore.
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drubt
Mar 29, 2005, 5:34 AM
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you are possible the angriest person i have ever seen. but dang buddy you're right... all this spray... i mean those two people... i mean.... dang... i'm up to my neck in the stuff...
but seriously, i hope that in the future you don't let someone elses interests in an internet message board that you dont even have to read if you don't want to affect your happiness like that. good luck!
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tomma
Mar 29, 2005, 11:20 AM
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So, what about this roof? any pictures?
I remember the story with Sharma sending 'Unendliche Geschichte' / 'Neverending story' in Magic Wood/Avertal. He never said a word about how hard it might be, but considering the effort he put into it, the commentators speculated about the first 8C/C+ Fb. Some time later a 16(?)-year-old from Germany sent in a couple of tries and said that it's max. 8B+.
So be careful guys, you never know these days...
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yakker
Mar 29, 2005, 12:55 PM
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LOL,Talk all you want.Horseshoe and Mt Mag are the place to be.Just stay out of my woods!We still like our guns,dogs,and whitebreads that scream like our sheep!And I'll let the dogs have seconds....
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noshoesnoshirt
Mar 29, 2005, 1:14 PM
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BTW, that problem's on private property, and the owner isn't exactly enthusiatic about climbers. There are also some pretty protective and crude climbers around. These guys are itchin' to bust some heads, and aren't exactly enthusiastic about climbing vids encroaching on a formerly pristine scene.
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kansasclimber
Mar 29, 2005, 2:52 PM
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wow, i cant believe how mad people are getting over this. I guess I am the other "SHARMA FAN". And your right, i think he is a pretty cool guy, with really strong climbing abilities... thats all. If you want you can talk about the climbing in kansas, it wont bother me.... gezz, people need to lay off on this site that get mad, put a smile on that face and go climb, crips!
Stephen
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iltripp
Mar 29, 2005, 3:15 PM
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In reply to: Shut the hell up and quit spraying about Arkansas, especially when you don't even live there. You live in MISSOURI and the other guy wearing the "IM a SHARMA FAN" banner is from KANSAS. You don't live in Arkansas yet you are the only ones making noise? Doesn't make sense. Okay you roadtrip down there on your time off, crowd the crags, and then tell everyone else in the online universe about it. Sharma can climb hard, really really hard. Good. Great. Respect the ethics and the low profile. Just keep the spray to yourself. You can ruin something that doesn't even belong to you.... hmm..the locals are mysteriously quiet on this issue i wonder.....if they even care?
What the hell is your problem?
The guy wasn't even spraying. His post said "wow, sharma climbed some hard shit in arkansas". What the feck is wrong with that???
A$$hole
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moonshine505
Mar 29, 2005, 3:37 PM
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For what it's worth, Sharma doesn't publish often, so for him to come out and say it's his hardest is pretty outstanding. How many folks can say they know much about his send of "practice of the wild"? It was called "the most inspriring piece of climbing I've ever seen" on the 8a forum and toni lamprecht called it "the most astonishing boulder problem in magic wood" and yet it was relatively low key. Certainly more so than Dreamtime, or even the mandala. Looking forward to the video. Thanks for the info, pushing yourself is incredible, for the rest of us inspiration is invaluable.
Matthew
PS - I reserve the right to spray about hueco, and bishop, and rifle, and any area I've been to, even if I don't live there...
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moonshine505
Mar 29, 2005, 3:57 PM
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if you couldn't tell that chris's comment about mandala being V16 was a joke your sense of humor is broken
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fitzontherocks
Mar 29, 2005, 4:04 PM
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From arostecrux' profile: "Personal Description: Freedom, sending, falling, hurting, epicing, training, believing, dreaming, loving, trying, creating, and living the high life."
Gee, he seems like a nice young man on paper.
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blackgoldgator
Mar 29, 2005, 4:17 PM
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.... sounds/looks like a tough climb, but then again, anything that man tries is gonna be tough compared to my level of climbing.
oh and all of you ... can spray as much shit about my state you want... i live in florida... go ahead... try to find a piece of rock to talk about!!!!
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obe
Mar 29, 2005, 4:25 PM
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Sharma is so amazing. It's like he seems he is in his prime when bam, he does something harder. Congrats Sharma, your an incredible guy...and by the way...I LIVE IN MISSOURI!
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thomasribiere
Mar 29, 2005, 4:36 PM
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how can a 40 foot problem be rated like a bouldering problem? Always the same question... strength vs resistance/endurance... 10 seconds versus 2 minutes... alactic anaerobiosis (use of the ATP) vs lactic aerobiosis... not at all the same kind of metabolism.
So Vsomething or 5.something???
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fitzontherocks
Mar 29, 2005, 4:42 PM
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About 6' off the ground, crash pads underneath, no ropes or harness... looks like a boulder problem to me, albeit a longass one, judging from the pics.
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thomasribiere
Mar 29, 2005, 4:57 PM
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it's a boulder if you want, but it probably shouldn't be rated like a boulder, IMO. At least if we talk muscle metabolism. But I don't know why I'm telling this. It must be fucking hard, as already stated! :)
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fiend
Mar 29, 2005, 5:12 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: for him to come out and say it's his hardest is pretty outstanding Uuuh, no actually, it's not. He said in a video interview that if pushed, he would grade the Mandala as a V16. It's really a V12 in case you're wondering.
If you really want to know... Sharma originally send the Mandala by a different--and much more difficult--sequence than what the second ascensionist used.
Mick Ryan and the Bishop Grading Census Commitee have since downgraded it to V11 because some relative unknown came and flashed it.
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bumblie
Mar 29, 2005, 5:25 PM
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Registered: Mar 18, 2003
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Does anyone info on any of the latest "access sensitive" bouldering spots in Arkansas?
How 'bout posting info on this site. Share the wealth. :D
Any links for sites with the lowdown would be greatly appreciated.
I get so tired of traipsing around the countryside and not finding hwat I'm looking for... especially when those "No Trespassing" signs are all around.
Post up, peeps. :wink:
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j_ung
Mar 29, 2005, 5:58 PM
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In reply to: Does anyone info on any of the latest "access sensitive" bouldering spots in Arkansas? How 'bout posting info on this site. Share the wealth. :D Any links for sites with the lowdown would be greatly appreciated. I get so tired of traipsing around the countryside and not finding hwat I'm looking for... especially when those "No Trespassing" signs are all around. Post up, peeps. :wink:
I... am going... to KILL YOU, bumblie! I really really mean it! By posting that crap, you signed your death warrant! AAARRRRRRGH! I'm going to track down your family and every person you know, from your best friend to the clerk at the gas station you frequent, and KILL THEM.
DEATH TO BUMBLIE! DEATH to anyone who even thinks about climbing in another state!
DEATH DEATH DEATH KILL KILL KILL
BTW, have you been to Super-Secret Crag X yet? I'll post the topo. Hang on a sec...
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bumblie
Mar 29, 2005, 6:13 PM
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I do get a kick out of how territorial some people are about the property of others. :lol:
"I'm the only one who can trespass!" :evil: :evil: :evil:
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crimpstrength
Mar 29, 2005, 6:13 PM
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I like the name of the route/problem. It kinda hints at arrogance, nice touch.
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