|
spike_in_milton
Jun 14, 2002, 1:16 AM
Post #1 of 25
(3680 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 16, 2002
Posts: 118
|
I laughed out loud when I read the classified ads in July's Rock and Ice for two local gyms, Rock Oasis and Joe Rockheads. Rock Oasis' (my gym) ad reads "60 foot high, colorful and friendly." Rockheads reads "low, Drab and Hostile" . Haven't been to Rockheads, so I can't say how hostile it really is...
[ This Message was edited by: spike_in_milton on 2002-06-13 20:32 ]
|
|
|
|
|
geezergecko
Jun 14, 2002, 1:57 AM
Post #2 of 25
(3680 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 26, 2002
Posts: 729
|
32 square feet of the best climbing around - a 4 by 8 sheet of plywood with bits of wood for holds - who thinks up this stuff?
|
|
|
|
|
spike_in_milton
Jun 14, 2002, 3:38 AM
Post #3 of 25
(3680 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 16, 2002
Posts: 118
|
Hey geezer, I've got one of those leaning up against the garage out back... maybe I should open a gym .
BTW, you're reasonably close; what's the Rock & Chalk gym like in Newmarket?
|
|
|
|
|
kriso9tails
Jun 14, 2002, 4:07 AM
Post #4 of 25
(3680 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 1, 2001
Posts: 7772
|
There was a huge post bout Ontario gyms. I think it's in the regional forum somewhere.
Of Rock and Chalk is okay. Unless they've done some major renovations since I was last there, it's not all that big, but they make good use of the space. There are two bouldeing caves, both are farly nice with one being completely overhanging. The routes are mostly vertival with a couple of negatively sloping routes and a couple of lines through their overhang (a cave that continues into a route basically). Some of the walls have simulated rock surface and features which is kind of neat (but they might have gotten rid of that).
I've only competed there, and never gone just to climb on a daypass or anything. The rout settenig was fairly good. More or less smooth routes with interesting moves and good use of features. I don't know how well they set in general though (comps always see better setting).
The service ranges from very friendly and welcomming to down right rude, but again there were comps running so there was high stress. That not a valid excuse if you're running a business, but maybe it's not normally like that.
If you're not that far it's worth checking out, and if I lived closer I would have no problem shelling out the cash for a day pass here for a change of setting during the winter months of gym climbing.
|
|
|
|
|
xen_monkey
Jun 14, 2002, 4:51 PM
Post #5 of 25
(3680 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2001
Posts: 217
|
I've ran into some randomly hostile people at Rockheads. But the whle gym is rather cliquey (SP) and sullen compared to other gyms
|
|
|
|
|
geezergecko
Jun 15, 2002, 1:48 AM
Post #6 of 25
(3680 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 26, 2002
Posts: 729
|
kriso9tails sums it up fairly accurately. I would like to add that the routes are good quality if not quantity (thanks to Aarron). I don't know much about the attitude - I go there to climb.
|
|
|
|
|
c_plante
Jun 17, 2002, 1:07 PM
Post #7 of 25
(3680 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 9, 2001
Posts: 265
|
Rockheads wouldn't be so bad if they had better lighting, changed the colours of the floor to a brighter colour, as well as the walls, and got rid of the regulars
Christian
|
|
|
|
|
downshift
Jun 17, 2002, 2:28 PM
Post #8 of 25
(3680 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2001
Posts: 589
|
And Rockhead's smells like baking bread. God that is such a de-motivator.
|
|
|
|
|
spike_in_milton
Jun 18, 2002, 1:05 AM
Post #9 of 25
(3680 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 16, 2002
Posts: 118
|
Charming. Although I have to admit, Rock Oasis has developed some serious funk since the warm weather moved in.
|
|
|
|
|
downshift
Jun 25, 2002, 12:46 AM
Post #10 of 25
(3680 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2001
Posts: 589
|
Rock Oasis is like climbing in a Sauna over the summer. Although when you finish one of the 60 footers you get a nice little treat when you come down because it seems so much cooler after that.
|
|
|
|
|
missedyno
Jun 27, 2002, 1:06 PM
Post #11 of 25
(3680 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2001
Posts: 4465
|
i climb at both gyms....
when i showed up at rockheads last night, they called me a "defector" to oasis. i was asked why i switched, and chose not to answer.
rockheads is very "cliquey" and the routes don't change near as often as they should. there are climbs up for 4 or 5 months at a time...
nevermind the atmosphere, i climb at both to work different techniques. ignore the people.
|
|
|
|
|
c_plante
Jun 27, 2002, 8:31 PM
Post #12 of 25
(3680 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 9, 2001
Posts: 265
|
They called you defector!!! HA! Doesn't that sum up the reasons why you shouldn't climb at Rockheads? I talked to the owner of Gravity about other gyms and not only was he cool with it, he admitted to going to other gyms all the time, hell it should be expected of climbers to check out as much rock as possible, indoor or outdoor. Lets burn rockheads to the ground
|
|
|
|
|
spike_in_milton
Jun 27, 2002, 9:19 PM
Post #13 of 25
(3680 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 16, 2002
Posts: 118
|
I don't know about ignoring the people... one of the reasons I keep going to R.O. is the extremely friendly customers and staff. I've made some interesting friends there.
But ya, it was brutally hot in there last night before the thunderstorm rolled through. There was a new unrated route in the corner by the doorway that I was sure I could beat, but I kept slipping from sweaty fingertips. Frustrating, but at least it wasn't crowded
|
|
|
|
|
missedyno
Jun 27, 2002, 9:24 PM
Post #14 of 25
(3680 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2001
Posts: 4465
|
yeah, it's like mega hot there lately. can't say i'm a big fan of the route setters at oasis.
they could get route setters at each level, not these 12 climbers who like to set things no one can do. way too much testosterone and spraying in there lately.
spikey: am i an "interesting" friend?
|
|
|
|
|
c_plante
Jun 28, 2002, 3:04 AM
Post #15 of 25
(3680 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 9, 2001
Posts: 265
|
What would everyone say is a good turnover rate for routes at an indoor climbing gym?
Personally I'd go with 1-2 months, leaning more towards the 2 month mark, sometimes you need time to get a climb, or you want to work it a few times through just to get the moves right. Or you just like to warm up/cool down with it.
Comments?
Christian
|
|
|
|
|
fiend
Jun 28, 2002, 3:39 AM
Post #16 of 25
(3680 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 25, 2001
Posts: 3669
|
I don't think there's a straight easy answer for that. Really you have to look at the grade of the climb and how much traffic it's getting. Harder climbs, which are still being worked and not just ignored, need to stay up a little longer while the midgrades (10s and 11s) generally see more traffic, are sent faster and have less people working on them. Also, climbs with a lot of slopers need to be reset faster due to the chalk buildup.
|
|
|
|
|
downshift
Jun 28, 2002, 2:18 PM
Post #17 of 25
(3680 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2001
Posts: 589
|
I find it odd with people experiences with Rockhead's. Some people get treated great by the staff and some (like myself) get treated rudely. Oh well. I go back every once in a while kinda like some of the routes.
But, as for route setting I like to see the harder routes stay up a bit longer and the easier route change fairly often.
|
|
|
|
|
c_plante
Jul 2, 2002, 10:07 PM
Post #18 of 25
(3680 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 9, 2001
Posts: 265
|
I'm by no means a great climber so I'd like to see the 5.7's and 5.8's changed more often. That's all I have to say
|
|
|
|
|
missedyno
Jul 2, 2002, 10:44 PM
Post #19 of 25
(3680 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2001
Posts: 4465
|
oasis is great for changing routes, i just have my own opinions for what they change them to....
|
|
|
|
|
krillen
Jul 2, 2002, 11:16 PM
Post #20 of 25
(3680 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 19, 2001
Posts: 4769
|
In every gym's defence, EVERY gym if stinky and hot this time of year. It's just the way it is.
|
|
|
|
|
torvum
Jul 3, 2002, 4:37 PM
Post #21 of 25
(3680 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 16, 2002
Posts: 25
|
I climb at Oasis and I love it. Sure, it's really really hot, but the people there are extraordinarily friendly. Ive met so many people. No matter when I go there is always a friendly face around.
If you want friendly staff and climbers, go to Oasis - just make sure to bring lots of water and chalk.
|
|
|
|
|
missedyno
Jul 4, 2002, 1:10 AM
Post #22 of 25
(3680 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2001
Posts: 4465
|
ha.... we oasis climbers are really piling up in here!
|
|
|
|
|
downshift
Jul 7, 2002, 11:52 AM
Post #23 of 25
(3680 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2001
Posts: 589
|
God the Ontario climbers on this site used to all climb at Gravity.... I think were being out numbered. Although we are getting enough climbers to host a game of something... Soccer anyone?
|
|
|
|
|
missedyno
Jul 8, 2002, 1:44 PM
Post #24 of 25
(3680 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2001
Posts: 4465
|
oh crap, i'm always the last one picked for team sports....
/me curls up in the fetal position and rocks in the corner...
|
|
|
|
|
climberchic
Jul 8, 2002, 2:28 PM
Post #25 of 25
(3680 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 24, 2000
Posts: 2077
|
Spike
What a coincidence! I was reading R&I (Women's Edition~ Great issue!!)yesterday while my bf and I were driving back from Durango. I saw both those ads and read them to him because they were so funny!
~Erica
|
|
|
|
|
|
