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scruff
Mar 30, 2005, 6:19 PM
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I'm planning a one week trip to the Tetons in early June with some friends. We're looking for routes in the class 4 to 5.6 range, and enjoy climbing a mix of rock, snow and ice.
I climbed a few routes in the park last summer, and I have Ortenburger's guidebook, so I can come up with climbs that sound good, but I don't know what condition they would likely be in in early June. Any advice on which routes to seek out or avoid at that time of year, and 'consolation prizes' to fall back on if it decides to snow would be greatly appreciated.
Is the snowpack heavy this year?
Thanks!
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scruff
Mar 31, 2005, 5:24 PM
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No thoughts from anyone? I guess the Tetons are unpredictable.
Are routes like the skillet glacier likely to be soft snow, neve or ice at that time of year? Will I be wanting pickets or screws if I need an anchor?
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mbg
Mar 31, 2005, 5:47 PM
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Last I heard, that part of the Rockies has had less than average snow receipts this year but in early June you'll still likely be dealing with mostly snow on routes like the Skillet. Good ice doesn’t usually start getting exposed until mid or late summer. I wouldn't bother with too many pickets, though, there should be plenty of options for (better) rock pro.
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scruff
Mar 31, 2005, 6:44 PM
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Thanks, mbg! That is quite helpful.
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aulwes
Mar 31, 2005, 7:12 PM
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My buddy and I are looking at going to the Tetons June 18th - the 25th. The plan is to climb Exum Ridge, then see how we feel then climb North Face. What do you reccomend as the best guide book to help us stay on route?
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mbg
Mar 31, 2005, 7:20 PM
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The Ortenburger/Jackson book is one of the best guides ever written with tons of route and historical info. There is a "50 classics" guide by Rossiter, I think, but I'd recommend throwing down a few more bills for the big one.
Needless to say, the Grand is the busiest peak in the park by far; if you've got time for several routes think about checking out some of the other summits.
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wilcox510
Mar 31, 2005, 7:47 PM
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aulwes - gotta love that iowa climbing! i went to the u of iowa and spent many a day at wild iowa, then later moved to the tetons (maybe you'll make the same choice while you're there) ditto the ortenburger book suggestion. the exum is great (particularly the lower exum). never did the north face, never appealed to me much. its beautiful but i dont think its all that great of a rock climb. the north ridge is supposed to be a much better climb from people i know who have done both. there are tons of routes around there i'd do before the north face personally, but like i said i havent done it and it is supposed to be a great adventure. i'll be psyched to hear what you thought of it. good luck
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scruff
Mar 31, 2005, 9:50 PM
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aulwes-- i climbed the upper exum last summer, and may try the lower exum this year. it was crowded but fun. the ortenburger book is great, but routefinding for the start of the upper exum (in the dark) was tricky (don't ask how long it took us just to get to wall street!). after wall street it wasn't bad.
if you are doing it in two days and get to your bivy early, you might want to scout the start of the route in the daylight.
have fun!
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