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wayfare


Apr 4, 2005, 12:25 PM
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Registered: Mar 18, 2005
Posts: 17

vmc direct direct  (North_America: United_States: New_Hampshire: Grafton_County: Cannon_Cliff)
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Can anyone whose done it give me some beta on the route? 5.10+ is pushing my leading ability, so i'm interested in knowing if the 5.10 pitches are protected well. About how much aide will I have to do if I free it at 5.10?

Also, is it possible to aid it from the ground up at A2/A3?

thanks in advance.


edge


Apr 4, 2005, 12:41 PM
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Registered: Apr 14, 2003
Posts: 9107

Re: vmc direct direct [In reply to]
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You can clean aid it at C2, but be prepared for mandatory 5.8 free climbing on the fourth pitch that is a bit run-out.

The 5.10 pitches are all very well protected if you can hang on to place it. The 5.10+ second pitch is a strenuous undercling, short but sweet. The crux (to me) 5.10+ third pitch is stellar stemming and liebacking that eats up small wireds, sustained but awesome.

The upper cruxes are all short. The start of the fifth pitch is either a 5.11 boulder problem right above the belay or a 5.10R boulder problem further right and away from the belay. Either way, it is more of a slab move or two than anything you will whip off of. The Cows Mouth is just a strenuous grunt 5.10; on Cathedral it would only be a 5.9+...

This is one of my favorite routes anywhere. I hope to repeat it myself later this year.

Finishing the third pitch:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...p.cgi?Detailed=22891


edge


Apr 5, 2005, 5:22 AM
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edge moved this thread from General to Regional Discussions.


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