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climb_in
Apr 4, 2005, 9:20 PM
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for me it's slopers that i need to hit left-handed.
i'm pretty consistent on everything else with either hand, but when there's a technical or longish move going to a scummy left-handed sloper, i'll probably have to work that move for a while.
so the question now is; even when you're climbing strong and it's a low-gravity day, what type of hold consistently shuts you down?
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chkbrwn
Apr 5, 2005, 1:10 AM
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the ones that get me are the little, tiny ones that you have to pinch with three fingers. They don't always get me. The ones that give me the trouble are the ones i see other people reaching for. I am 6'1". So when i get up there... I am not reaching for it because it is at my chest. I am finding that i need to move my hands before my feet. other wise my feet get ahead of my hands. the bigger grips i can just push down on like getting out of a pool.
So, all you short climbers... keep in mind when you are reaching for that next grip I am reaching for it 3 foot holds prior.
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jcr
Apr 5, 2005, 2:04 AM
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Slopers with both hands, left AND right, for me. I usually slip on these.
JC
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climb_in
Apr 5, 2005, 7:35 PM
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chkbrwn - yeah, those small three-finger holds are tough on me too. still don't punish me like slopers though. . .
for a while i was having real problems on "slimpers", holds that were kind of in-cut but still pretty slope-y and smooth. my gym just got around to washing their holds in miuratic (did i spell that right?) acid, so either i got stronger or the cleaning of the holds really helped out. i prefer to think i got stronger.
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nthusiastj
Apr 5, 2005, 9:26 PM
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I second the slimper comment. They shut me down.
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lambone
Apr 6, 2005, 12:16 AM
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ussualy pockets, small two finger...and forget about single finger unless it's a slab.
pockets feel very dangerous to my tendons in the gym, I'd rather save it and get hurt outdoors. I'll back off any gym route in a heartbeat if it has a real powerfull pocket move.
slopers...I like them.
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vegastradguy
Apr 6, 2005, 12:50 AM
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if its anything less than a jug or a crack of some sort, i'm hosed in general....face holds kill me in general...esp on steep terrain.
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glyrocks
Apr 6, 2005, 1:00 AM
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I've never grabbed a slopper I thought was actually supposed to be a hold.
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greenketch
Apr 6, 2005, 1:24 AM
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I have a friend that likes to mount angled pinches upside down so that they are like a poor undercling. You have to pinch to stay there. whenever I am pressed to use one above my shoulders I am toast.
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spikeyhair13
Apr 6, 2005, 2:13 AM
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i have to say any hold that is caked in chalk, u all know what i am talking about. But besides that i would have to say any flat hold that leans outwards. can never get those, slopers are ok, but not great.
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boss
Apr 6, 2005, 3:05 AM
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I love slopers and really tiny crimps...but the slimpers screw me over just about every time.
-boss
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tnchief
Apr 6, 2005, 3:41 AM
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Over the years, my weaknesses have changed. It used to be slopers that gave me trouble and crimps were my strength. Now it's the other way around. However, pinches have always been a weakness, regardless of how I (don't?) train.
My pet peeve holds, on the other hand, are the holds in the gym (and outside for that matter) that are completely greased from either too much chalk (DAMN YOU, CHALK FIENDS!) or too much rubber (come on guys, make up your mind where you want that foot!) Contact strength doesn't help much on grease.
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robbiehirsch
Apr 6, 2005, 3:44 AM
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i hate crimps!
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climb_in
Apr 6, 2005, 3:55 PM
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good point about the over-chalked and greasy holds. most newbies in my gym will slime up anything they can put their hands/feet on, so it's always an adventure trying a technical problem after a busy weekend. they can two pad incuts into slimpers really quick.
i totally forgot about mono pockets. . . nasty. i try to stay away.
excellent comment also about the undercling-piches. there's somewhat of a renaissance in my gym concerning the orientation of holds. where there used to be only down and side pulls, lately the routes have exhibited more creative 3/4 and undercling orientations as well. . . good stuff
still hate slopers, need to work on my open-handed strength
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gymslackerclimber
Apr 6, 2005, 11:46 PM
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its all about open hand strength,, and lock off strength,,,, lock off's to sloppers coming over an over hang-then matching.......OH YEAH... monos and tendon stressing finger pockets are iffy, but only make you strong... What i really love are the nothing ledges that you have to shift ur weight inorder to pull off it. (underclings that are nothing until you get above them,) those are always fun.... or sidways dynamic moves on over hangs, to crimps, having your feet cut, then just arm cranking- core flexing-hardcore climbing. :twisted: It seems that my enemy when im not in 'the zone' is my breathing....... its all about your breathing,,,,, breathing, endurance, finger strength... hah ha... wouldnt that be nice..
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livingtheedge
Apr 7, 2005, 5:03 AM
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I was working a problem today and everything was going smoothly. I was getting the motions down and the technique. I slipped off the last move ( hand foot match) and took a quick breath before i got back on. As soon and I started the problem something didn’t feel right and I felt so Bass Ackwards. Nothing i did seemed to be right and I ended up bailing half way up after I seemed to tie my self in a pretzel. I got back on and everything was normal. It was the weirdest thing I have felt while climbing (to have no idea what the hell was going on or how to fix it).
Slopers suck for me... just to make this post somewhat relevant.
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climb_in
Apr 7, 2005, 6:14 PM
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nice, i know i've been there too. feels good one time, feels crappy the next. . .
i'm surprised more people haven't mentioned pinches, are these types of holds pretty much automatic for everyone?
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cchildre
Apr 7, 2005, 6:39 PM
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Well the pinkie mono is my climb buster!
I can usually pull on most things but once it gets down to a mono I am toast unless it is working slab. Also, slab climbs in general beat me up, not so much the climb but usually the clipping hold is some obscure crystal that I can barely hold and pulling a free hand to clip has me making diamonds in the pucker department.
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climb_in
Apr 7, 2005, 7:00 PM
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cchildre - excellent point, and the imagery of your prose is outstanding!
haven't gotten outside to do slab much, and the slab in my gym is treated like the "kiddie" wall. really easy warm-up type routes where the staff does the belay lessons.
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cchildre
Apr 7, 2005, 7:13 PM
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In reply to: cchildre - excellent point, and the imagery of your prose is outstanding! haven't gotten outside to do slab much, and the slab in my gym is treated like the "kiddie" wall. really easy warm-up type routes where the staff does the belay lessons.
Don't neglect that slab work. Sure all the girls swoon when your turning the roof of the overhanging section, but slab will expose any footwork flaws. When the kiddies are absent, grab a pair of tennis balls and tape them to the plams of your hands and then try to work that slab. Move up using feet only and hands to balance not to pull down. I was suprised how much power the feet generate.
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vertk8r
Apr 7, 2005, 9:01 PM
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The ol' shallow-down-sloping pocket...kills me everytime.
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wingnut
Apr 7, 2005, 9:33 PM
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I hate shallow pockets that face the "wrong" way. as in a pocket going to the left when you need to climb to the right. :x
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chkbrwn
Apr 12, 2005, 12:13 AM
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Slopers i don't have too much trouble with. I have big hands with a big spread. I can spread my hand across it to cover more surface. Some slopers are small enough to pinch the under side with my thumb.
A few weeks ago some one told me to pinch every grip. Since then I have been doing so and noticed a big increase in what I was able to grip. It works better on some more than others. But you will find yourself looking at some grips differently when you try it.
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sinshan
Apr 12, 2005, 12:56 AM
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When bouldering, there's one move I always suck at and I know it - - -
any overhanging wall, with a cross-through, especially where one arm has to go under another.
I know, it's about the abs. . . and the feet. . .and despite knowing all these things, I still can't execute unless the holds are mid sized or larger.
:x
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ajkclay
Apr 12, 2005, 1:20 AM
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slopers damned slopers...
honestly, I watch someone like Dave Graham stick those flat featureless vertical buggers and wonder whether he is part octopus or something.
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