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lambone
Apr 8, 2005, 8:16 AM
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Hi Folks, I'm to that point where I am looking for a fleet of rental shoes for our new gym here in Southern Oregon
I need something comfortable, durable (ie super thick rubber), and cheap is allways nice.
I found these online: Bufo "Unbreakable"
http://rockshoes.com/unbreakable.htm
They come in a non-marking version also.
Any Others?
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ahwoo
Apr 8, 2005, 8:32 AM
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i've seen the bufo unbreakable velcros. seem like pretty good shoes. i definitely feel that these shoes hold up real well, and the performance on them isn't too terribly shabby. we've had some guys demoing them for the past 4-5 months or so and i've seen no problems with them, other than the smell, hehe
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dief
Apr 8, 2005, 11:46 PM
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We love the Evolve Quest & Docans. We do a ton of rentals and these shoes have been holding up really well.
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speedyz2
Apr 9, 2005, 12:10 AM
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get the evolv quest. very dependable and good shoes for rentals. not bad, but not the best. good overall shoe
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jestep
Apr 24, 2005, 9:27 PM
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I would look into 'Mad Rock' and 'Montrail' brand shoes. They are much cheaper than any other brands, most are as good or better shoes, and they both have a few very duracle and versatily models.
I would look at getting sets of velcro and laceup shoes for your gym.
My other suggestions:
5.10 Spire
5.10 Mojave
Sportiva Cliff
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jestep
Apr 24, 2005, 9:28 PM
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I would look into 'Mad Rock' and 'Montrail' brand shoes. They are much cheaper than any other brands, most are as good or better shoes, and they both have a few very duracle and versatily models.
I would look at getting sets of velcro and laceup shoes for your gym.
My other suggestions:
5.10 Spire
5.10 Mojave
Sportiva Cliff
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koolaid
Apr 29, 2005, 9:25 AM
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I called up Bufo shoes a while back and am in the process of getting some Velcro Unbreakables for my gym. They're also super cheap. If you want your shoes to last more than a year, I would NOT recommend MadRock (Flash) or Sportiva Cliffs. I've worn both inside and outside, great rubber, but they wear out real quick due to their soft rubber, esp cuz to the awful footwork I see everyday at my gym.
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lehanen
Apr 29, 2005, 9:54 AM
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The Scarpa Helix 1 or 2 are a pretty good all round beginner/intermediate shoe and the rubber is long lasting too. They are also pretty cheap. they are a lace up but as far as i know you can ge a velcro.
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lvclimbingbum
Apr 29, 2005, 2:03 PM
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At our gym we mostly have older shoes. But we've been ordering the Evolv Quest now, and you can use those now. Even though I have my own shoes, they work pretty good, and I bet that the Evolv Rage would work pretty well too.
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lordjim
Apr 29, 2005, 2:23 PM
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I'll agree with the Evolv Docon or Quest. I'll disagree with the MR Phoenix suggestion on one question. What is your wall going to be made out of? IF it's just painted plywood then they might be ok. If it's textured paint or something harder then MR is a bad choice. The rubber is sticky and soft and the sloppy footwork from new climbers will trash them pretty fast.
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jpearl
May 2, 2005, 3:11 AM
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Our gym currently supplies noobies (and climbing junkies who leave their shoes at home) with the green Bufo lace-ups. I'm not sure of the model name, butr the shoe is designed to be a gym rental. The shoe has no special features like downward pointy toes or radical closure systems. It's just a basic, chunky, lace up shoes for toe draqgers and wall smearers that last from noobie to noobie, week after week, month after month.
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lambone
May 2, 2005, 3:16 AM
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And how are they holding up? Considering buying 40 pairs soon.
Thanks,
Matt
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saderinger
May 2, 2005, 4:26 AM
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Our gym has the Bufo and the Evolv and in my opinion the Evolvs are holding up much better and the customers seem to like them better. Also Evolv gives some type of deal to gyms. My only complaint is that they are sized differently than any of our other shoes.
Anthony
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prisonbound
May 2, 2005, 5:13 AM
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Well I'm not sure what the best model would be for gym rentals, but I can also attest for the "unbreakable" Bufo model. The rock wall I work at has been using these shoes since early fall. They certainly fit the criteria of being thick-soled/durable/relatively cheap when bought in bulk/fairly comfortable. The obvious downsides are the fact that they're real bulky, and you can never really size them very well. They'll fit every foot, kinda.
As far as wear and tear, they've been holding up well. Our wall gets heavy traffic, and often by complete noob college students wanting to "try it out" just once. Out of about 80 or so pairs, we've noticed some delamination in maybe 7. All which was easily fixed overnight with some shoe-glue.
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lambone
May 2, 2005, 3:40 PM
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Thanks guys,
What is the Evolv gym specific shoe called? I couldn't find it on their web-site.
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hopper
May 2, 2005, 4:24 PM
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Mad Rock has a rentalspecific shoe coming out caled the Asylum(http://www.madrockclimbing.com/html/asylum.html). We've ordered three pairs for my college gym, but haven't gotten them in yet, as they're not really out yet, but they look pretty beefy.
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lordjim
May 2, 2005, 4:39 PM
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Evolv doesn't have a specific gym shoe. Either the Quest or the Defy would work however.
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epic_ed
May 2, 2005, 5:18 PM
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And here's a link to their site:
http://www.evolvesports.com/index.htm
Brian's customer service is absolutely top notch. If his price for the Quest is any where comprable to those for the Bufo's, I'd give him some serious consideration.
Ed
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azrockclimber
May 2, 2005, 5:27 PM
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5.10 spires..standard beginning shoe. comfortable can handle everything you can and they've got C4 rubber!
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nich_popsicle
May 8, 2005, 6:20 PM
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We have a whole bunch of the 5.10 gym rental type of shoes. They are the green ones (although NOT the spires, probably a step down...) that you see on the gumbys at a lot of gyms. They seem to hold up pretty well, they are lined, and have nice thick rubber. Like I said, they are made by 5.10, but I am not sure of the model...
-N
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07brpaul
Feb 16, 2006, 4:22 AM
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I would definitely not recomend Madrock Hookers, I have them in my gym and they didn't last too long before they all had toe blowouts. I am waiting for a shipment of Bufo Unbreakeable lace-ups to come in and have heard nothing but good things about them.
-Brian Paul
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lambone
Feb 17, 2006, 4:24 AM
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As follow-up I am really happy with the Bufo Unbreakables. After 6 months, the rubber looks hardly worn. No delamination, minimal stretch, no nasty funk oder.
Only complaint is that the shoelaces suck, they become freyed easily. I think Bufo is planning to put better laces in the curent/future models.
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xjlx
Feb 17, 2006, 5:30 PM
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The gym at the Univerity of Iowa has the Bufo Unbreakables. They have held up amazing for all the abuse thrown at them. I used a pair the other day out of curiousity. I was suprised at how good the toe on them was compared to my La Sportiva Mythos that I got a size or two too big(they were my first shoe).
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lancebrock
Feb 18, 2006, 2:03 AM
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we have had the quest and the docon. the quest is hard to fit, runs small and the toe box is too pointy for beginners. i do not recommend it. the docon is great. we have loved that shoe and were getting a good deal but they raised the price on us. we are currently shopping for other options and are looking at another shoe. i will let you know how it goes.
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jimoner
Feb 19, 2006, 7:24 PM
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Best Gym Rental Shoe? BUFO unbreakable by a landslide. Been through everyone else in the last 14 years. www.rockshoes.com
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