|
|
|
|
metoliusmunchkin
Jun 30, 2002, 8:46 PM
Post #1 of 11
(5433 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 7, 2001
Posts: 1410
|
As many climbers before me, I find myself now caught upon a ledge. This ledge however does not accentuate the surface of a face thousands of feet in the air, yet rather represents the stagnance of certain improvements.
This stagnant ledge is the plateau of my improvements. As I find myself clinging on to what skills left within I am pursuaded to then concentrate more wholly upon skills not yet taught, skills acquired due to necessity.
It is these skill necessities that I would find only on the solitude on the rock, and of course with a little beta on how to get there. I found this in the very interesting How To Climb 5.12! by Eric Hörst.
In accordance with my beliefs, there are certain heights which achieved, will result in maximum confidence in further climbs and advanced techniques. In my mind the doorway into such a place lies within achieving a 5.12 (and beyond).
Consequently I bought this interesting guide to 5.12 and have found it very interesting thus far. I have not yet completed reading the book, yet will do so in the near future. I'm curious though, as to what real climbers thought of Hörst's methods and idealistic opinions and statements.
Discuss.
|
|
|
|
|
jono13
Jul 1, 2002, 1:38 AM
Post #2 of 11
(5433 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2001
Posts: 3286
|
I havent read the book, I did once flip thru it, but thats it. If you ask me, the only way to improve on climbing is 3 things. Train, push yourself, and climb. The ability to push yourself, I think, is a very valuable skill. Before yesterday, the highest I had ever lead was a 10a. But I just went gung-ho on an 11a, and did it. I think by just pushing yourself, you can accomplish any climb you never thought you could do. Not neccesarily 5.13 or anything , but it seems to help quite a bit.
As for training, it will simply prepare you physically, and thats all their is to it. And when it comes to climbing, you teach yourself what its all about. You learn the technique, learn how to conserve energy etc. Book smook, the only way to get better is to climb and train, u dont even have to neccesarily train, if ur climbing, your training!
cheers
jono
|
|
|
|
|
mitchal
Jul 1, 2002, 1:51 AM
Post #3 of 11
(5433 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 21, 2002
Posts: 672
|
Hi,
I too have bought Erics book.
This is a great book if you are DEDICATED to acheiving a higher level of climbing.
This IS,however ,a REGIMENTof training and you must be willing to put forth great discipline and dedication to his program.I was not able to follow the plan, but,I did yeild many improvements in my climbing skills.I recomend any books by ERIC.
Climb Happy
Mitch
|
|
|
|
|
jdean
Jul 1, 2002, 3:48 AM
Post #4 of 11
(5433 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 29, 2001
Posts: 200
|
I have the book and found it to be very inspiring and helpful. It helps with the physical AND mental aspect of the game which is very important.
M@
|
|
|
|
|
billcoe_
Jul 1, 2002, 4:19 AM
Post #5 of 11
(5433 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
|
I do not have familiarity with the "How to climb 5.12" book. But I was browsing the local used bookstore and bought a copy of Horsts' "Flash Training". I highly recommend that book. Highly. Wouldn't matter if you are the resident hard man who is working to grab that last little 1 percent mental boost: or the old fat man I currently am, both could benefit greatly. The book is well layed out and written. I only paid .25 cents for it, but it is easily worth the full cover price.
|
|
|
|
|
duskerhu
Jul 1, 2002, 7:57 AM
Post #6 of 11
(5433 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 13, 2002
Posts: 1023
|
I too have NOT read "How To Climb 5.12" but I HAVE read "Flash Training" and think it is a fabulous work of climbing literature. As billcoe said, well worth the cover price; and as far as I'm concered, twice that!
Hopefully in the next few weeks I'll be able to pickup a copy of "How To Climb 5.12" however, I'm still not finished "gleening" information from "Flash Training." I bought that book when I was very new to climbing and even though a large portion of it is directed to seasoned climbers looking to improve, I found a wealth of topics and techniques for the begginer to use and learn from immediately.
I can only imagine what I'll learn from "How To Climb 5.12"
Live Free!
Play Hard!
Climb On!
duskerhu
|
|
|
|
|
merewyn
Jul 1, 2002, 10:00 AM
Post #7 of 11
(5433 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 16, 2002
Posts: 12
|
I borrowed a copy of "how to climb 5:12" once, and managed to read the first couple of chapters before the owner claimed it back!
From the bit that I did read, I found it really good, and it definitly seemed to relate to the troubles I was experiencing.
Since then I have been unable to find another copy! No outdoors shops have got it, and our largest book retailer here in New Zealand does know about it, but refuses to get me one.
I don't suppose anyone out there would be finished with theirs? Unlikely I expect, it's not the sort of book you give away. Still trying to climb 5:12 however!
|
|
|
|
|
crackaddict
Jul 1, 2002, 10:35 AM
Post #8 of 11
(5433 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2000
Posts: 1279
|
I have read it.
Very well written and the man has it all broken down for you.
I think it would be easy to crank 5.12 and harder with the way Eric has it all figured out. I have adapted many of his regemins in to my training and have seen major increase in my abillities. My only problem his having the time to do it all.
He also has a new book called Training For Climbing
Here is a link to his site if anyone is interested in checking it out.
http://www.trainingforclimbing.com/index.html
|
|
|
|
|
texasclimber
Jul 1, 2002, 12:47 PM
Post #9 of 11
(5433 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 19, 2002
Posts: 821
|
If you can't find a copy of this book, try www.amazon.com. Last time I checked (a week ago), they had some new AND used copies! I plan on picking one up myself!
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Jul 1, 2002, 5:14 PM
Post #10 of 11
(5433 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
It worked for me: http://www.rockclimbing.com/ascent/index.php?UserID=jt512
-Jay
|
|
|
|
|
malachi
Jul 1, 2002, 9:06 PM
Post #11 of 11
(5433 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 24, 2002
Posts: 18
|
A far superior book is "Performance Rock Climbing" by Udu Neumann. It is, perhaps, the best book to date on the process and science of climbing to your potential.
|
|
|
|
|
|
