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Climbing at Dauphin Narrows
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ericbeyeler


Apr 8, 2005, 9:03 AM
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Climbing at Dauphin Narrows  (North_America: United_States: Pennsylvania: Southcentral_Region: Dauphin_Narrows)
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This will be somewhat of a trip report (we climbed there April 6), but I would like to describe the kinds of climbing you will find at Dauphin Narrows. This is based on my admittedly limited experience of 3 climbs there so far.

There is a lot of 45 degree slab. The sides of the two main buttresses (fins) are made of rock that has definate sheeted layers. The lower parts are somewhat covered in lichen. Closer to the top the lichen is less. There are trees you will have to contend with & get around (but they make good rap stations). Near the top of both the north and south ridge there are portions of solid pebbly rock which is really nice to climb, lots of holds & friction.

Protection can be slim in spots. Mostly you will need mid-size stoppers and cams ( 15-30 mm ) and mid-size hexes (20-50), and several long slings . Most cracks are flaring except the ones that are under overhanging rock. There is some choss, especially on the north buttress, the south buttress seems to be a little better.

As a note of interest, while climbing we found several bolts, mostly rusted out, and a stopper that was stuck way back in a crack. These all seemed to be 20 years old or so (guesstimate). I think there are good opportunities for bolting at the Narrows.

One more thing: I highly recommend walkie-talkies, the noise of the traffic makes communication difficult or impossible otherwise.

Eric Beyeler


bcbechtel


Jul 14, 2005, 10:50 AM
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Re: Climbing at the Narrows [In reply to]
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I live very near the narrows and have often wondered about climbing. Can you tell me about access? Did you just park in town and walk, or is there some closer place to park? I just live on the Blue Mountain and can reach Dauphin in 5 minutes, so this would be a good place to take my daughter for a brief, not TOO difficult climb.

Thanks for the info, hope you had a great time.

Brad


cedk


Jul 14, 2005, 12:10 PM
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Re: Climbing at the Narrows [In reply to]
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There are many crags in the USA called "the narrows" so you might give a headline that's a bit more specific.


ericbeyeler


Jul 19, 2005, 10:05 AM
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In reply to:
There are many crags in the USA called "the narrows" so you might give a headline that's a bit more specific.

How do I change it?


ericbeyeler


Jul 19, 2005, 10:16 AM
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In reply to:
I live very near the narrows and have often wondered about climbing. Can you tell me about access? Did you just park in town and walk, or is there some closer place to park? I just live on the Blue Mountain and can reach Dauphin in 5 minutes, so this would be a good place to take my daughter for a brief, not TOO difficult climb.

Thanks for the info, hope you had a great time.

Brad

Send me a PM.

There are no toproping areas here that I have found. Trad is the name of the game.


ericbeyeler


Aug 21, 2006, 8:32 AM
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It amazes me that this crag gets so little use. It is simply massive. We were at the top of pitch 3 of MSMD (which seems pretty high when you are there) and it hit me that we were only about 1/5 the way up the cliff line! There are sections that I would guess are about 300+ vertical feet! (hey for PA this is huge :) )
For not being used much, the trail is actually fairly well defined. It does need some cleanup work, which I may try to do some time after work soon.
If anyone is interested in climbing there, let me know. I would be glad to show you around.

Eric


svilnit


Aug 21, 2006, 8:42 AM
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Re: Climbing at Dauphin Narrows [In reply to]
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How far from York would this crag be?

I'm in Maryland and York is about 30 minutes north of here.


cintune


Aug 21, 2006, 9:36 AM
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http://www.camp4.com/photos/1/dau5.jpg

Pic from Camp4.com. Always wondered about it too, if not for the 4-lane at the base it'd be perfectly gorgeous.


ericbeyeler


Aug 21, 2006, 9:47 AM
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Yes that is a classic pic of or by Cheyenne Wills, who started developing this crag in the 70s.
Even with the highway it's still a spectacular view. Walkie talkies help with the traffic noise.

This is located about 10-15 minutes north of downtown Harrisburg. Which is why I'm amazed that more people don't climb there.

Eric


ericbeyeler


Aug 21, 2006, 10:09 AM
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Actually what I find hillarious is that everyone I talk to says "Oh, Dauphin, that's a chosspile, I don't climb there". But they haven't actually climbed there to know. They just hear the same rumor over and over and never see for themselves.
In truth, there is some loose rock, but the southern buttress is not too bad. There is lots of slab, but there are many protectable lines to be found.
Maybe the rumor mill is a good thing, I have the crag to myself when I go.
Eric


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