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FA of Air Sweden? And...
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phillygoat


Apr 14, 2005, 8:51 AM
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FA of Air Sweden? And...
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After watching that amazing footage from the Parallelojam clip I was wondering who did the first ascent. Also, I noticed in the new R & I that Tommy Caldwell clipped a draw into the anchors of the lower climb. As a relative couch potato when it comes to climbing hard trad, I'm not trying to knock anyone's style- I'm just wondering if the FA clipped the lower anchor or not.


timmy_t


Apr 14, 2005, 9:14 AM
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Pat Savage I believe.


jcinco


Apr 14, 2005, 10:02 AM
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The FA was done by Pat, but I didn't think his last name was Savage. Anyway, Pat was a great guy who was a regular on the Valley/Moab dirtbag circuit. I met him in camp 4 on my first trip to the Valley in 99, and climbed Serenity/Sons with him. My first route in the Valley and a great day. Pat fell to his death in the Needles in (I think) 2001 in an unfortunate climbing accident.


dan4183


Apr 14, 2005, 10:21 AM
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I dont know much about proper trad style, but why wouldn't you clip the anchors? Does proper style mean consciously skipping available protection just because it isnt a gear placement? Besides isnt air sweden pretty run out at the top? Once again, i dont know jack about trad style so thats just my two cents.


junkie


Apr 14, 2005, 10:27 AM
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Yes, proper Trad style would be to use the available NATURAL protection which was right next to the bolted anchor.

Which is what the dude in the video does. He plugs in a couple small cams right next to the anchor.

He did that route in FINE style for sure. Proud ascent.


sub-zero
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Apr 14, 2005, 10:30 AM
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I'm new here and I was wondering, even though it probably has been asked before what is FA?


t-dog
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Apr 14, 2005, 10:50 AM
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FA: First Ascent


sub-zero
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Apr 14, 2005, 10:54 AM
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Oh duh I've heard that before. I just never put the two together.


phillygoat


Apr 14, 2005, 7:23 PM
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Bump. Anyone know whether the FA used the chains?


camhead


Apr 14, 2005, 7:36 PM
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according to the guidebook, the FA did not use the chains.

The original lower .12b route, Swedin Ringle, just ends when the crack gets almost too thin. The crux on this route, I think, is clipping the chains. Still, the line obviously goes much higher, and Swedin Ringle's ending is a little contrived.

By not clipping the chains on the Air Swedin exension, the climber is treating the route as if it goes a full pitch length, rather than ending at the contrived point.


rockprodigy


Apr 15, 2005, 7:07 AM
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Pat's last name is Savage. I met him in 2000, and climbed with him briefly at Indian Creek. He lived "close to the edge", and although it was tragic, I was not too surprised to learn about his death while soloing.

I have never heard that it is bad style to clip the anchors on a route. I guess you learn something new every day.

I had always heard that on that particular route it is harder to clip the anchors, so you're better off skipping it and climbing higher. I didn't think it was a matter of style.


takeme


Apr 15, 2005, 8:38 AM
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In reply to:
Pat's last name is Savage. I met him in 2000, and climbed with him briefly at Indian Creek. He lived "close to the edge", and although it was tragic, I was not too surprised to learn about his death while soloing.

He didn't die soloing. He failed to finish tying his knot before following the first pitch of Thin Ice in the Needles, then leaned back at the anchor and it came undone. Tragic indeed...basically the same thing that Lynn Hill did, but he was not so lucky.


rockprodigy


Apr 15, 2005, 11:25 AM
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Oh, I was mis-informed. Thanks for calarifying that....RIP.


t-dog
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Apr 15, 2005, 11:50 AM
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In reply to:
He failed to finish tying his knot before following the first pitch of Thin Ice in the Needles, then leaned back at the anchor and it came undone.

Christ, that's a harsh way to go, especially for such a gifted climber!!!!


alpnclmbr1


Apr 15, 2005, 4:09 PM
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In reply to:
The FA was done by Pat

Are we talking about a top rope or a lead. Pat freed the line on tr. If someone has lead the line since then, that person would be credited with the FA.

In reply to:
Anyway, Pat was a great guy who was a regular on the Valley/Moab dirtbag circuit.

So, you meet and climb with a 19 year old newbie weekender college student from michigan that had been to the creek maybe once and you characterize him as a regular on the dirtbag circuit. Are you sure we are talking about the same person?

Seems to me that Savage would be a hard to forget last name. Even more so given how you pronounce his name.

And then there is rockpordigy.
A thread about the "FA" of the extension of swedin-ringle. And he just happened to meet Pat on the trip that Pat freed it. Boy isn't that a remarkable coincidence. Pat was a strong climber. You claim to be a strong climber. He's dead so you are safe in claiming to have climbed with him. Don't suppose you remember the famous climber that he was climbing with? Didn't think so, although I am sure you will come up with a good excuse.

And then there is what this thread is really about. Ah, the inside scoop.
Martha, if you happen to read this you can send back my beacon now.

I will have a great thread for all of you to enjoy when you get back from jt.


caughtinside


Apr 15, 2005, 4:16 PM
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alpnclmbr, you are one crazy dude.


fracture


Apr 15, 2005, 4:35 PM
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Did that make any sense to anyone?

:?


grayhghost


Apr 15, 2005, 5:27 PM
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"And he just happened to meet Pat on the trip that Pat freed it."
-alpnclmbr1

Are you getting some other information that is not in this thread?
I can't find any spot where Rockprodigy said anything like this; a
deleted part of an earlier post perhaps.
You should really clarify your statements because they seem very
provocative.


"You claim to be a strong climber."
--alpnclmbr1

I also claim he's a bloody-strong
climber, well trad-climber that is.
j/k


rockprodigy


Apr 18, 2005, 6:55 AM
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I must be getting famous, because now I have a stalker!!


jcinco


Apr 20, 2005, 12:59 PM
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:lol:

alpnclmbr1- you are one pathetic m0therf0cker.


grayhghost


Apr 20, 2005, 1:50 PM
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strange days have found us. . . . .

hey Mike how's the sport climbing project coming?
(aka the tweaky man)


alpnclmbr1


Apr 20, 2005, 2:27 PM
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Lets see, I pick on rockpod the person who claims to be a lieutenant in the USAF, and then never once mentions that fact on this site.

He claims to have freed the rainbow wall, yet from his trip report, you cannot tell if he freeclimbed it or aided it, or which version he did.

Then we get this thread where rocky and his friends all claim to have met a dead climbing partner of mind. Someone that pretty much only climbed for two years.

re ghost: Pat only made one trip to the creek in 2000, the trip he freed air whatever.

So, who were you saying is the stalker?


mark29


Jul 20, 2005, 12:06 PM
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So, AC, your point seems to be that Rockprodigy is a big fat liar or something?

I was there when he met Pat, who was climbing with a mutual (female) friend and fellow dirtbagger. I don't remember much about him, except that someone told me he had climbed 5.13 cracks in the Valley (which was very impressive to me at the time). He talked big numbers, and I was stoked to hear a couple weeks later that he sent Tricks as well as pretty much every other hard route at the Creek. I didn't hear anything about Air Sweden, but if he only made one trip, which is quite understandable, then that must have been the trip.

Finally, I remember my female dirtbagger friend related some images from Pat's memorial service. Apparently his mother, an artist, put together any amazing wall-sized collage of photographs of Pat's climbing exploits.

Is this all coincidence? Maybe I have the wrong guy.


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