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shouder muscle pain(after overhanging climbing)
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arjunrattan


Apr 15, 2005, 10:47 AM
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shouder muscle pain(after overhanging climbing)
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hi all,

well ive noticed that after climbing (or boudering) on extremely overhanging problems where your kinda locked off on one hand and then you have to really twist almost 90 degrees for the next move..my shoulder muscle really kinda aches(the muscle like on the outer side of my shoulder just above the tricep area)...but im pretty certain this is 'good' pain..but none the less..has anyone experienced similar aches?? how do you get yourself to heal faster?? cause ive rested like a day now and its still kinda aching...and i want to go bouder tonight! :twisted:

peace
ar


symbiosissol


Apr 15, 2005, 11:16 AM
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Re: shouder muscle pain(after overhanging climbing) [In reply to]
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I would occasionally get such a pain until I started working opposing muscle groups. In this case, the shoulder Cuff area is a good place to start. Heres a decent link w/ some exercises to try on some off days.

http://www.thetrainingstationinc.com/rotator-cuff-exercises.html

There are a bunch of other exercises but this is a good start. A 10lb weight should work pretty well.


arjunrattan


Apr 15, 2005, 11:27 AM
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which brings me to another point...

wat are the general muscle groups which tend to get overworked while climbing..

and wat are the best exercises for opposing muscles???

peace


symbiosissol


Apr 15, 2005, 12:01 PM
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For me, my forearms and biceps tend to get pumped while bouldering. I have found (and as its been said many a time before) climbing is the best way to increase strength in these areas. To my understanding, working on opposing muscle groups will help with reducing injury and overall body control. So, when I work out at home (other then my rock rings) I focus more on these opposing muscles, such as Shoulder Rotator Cuff, Rhombiods, and Abs. Here are some good back and shoulder exercises:

http://www.nismat.org/orthocor/programs/upper/upperex.html


arjunrattan


Apr 15, 2005, 12:08 PM
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thanks for the info man!

peace!


chills


Apr 15, 2005, 12:13 PM
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Hey arjunrattan :

Sorry about your problem, I agree with the other posts but I just wanted to drop you warning about shoulder injuries. I partially tore my rotator cuff last summer climbing indoors...I didn't even really feel it until the second day after it happened. I just sort of fell (just a few inches) and twisted on one arm which hurt a bit but not terribly. 2 days later I could barely raise my arm 3 inches, the doctor said I was lucky I didn't tear it all the way through because I would have neeed surgury to correct the problem...anyways long story short it took 6 weeks to heal which ticked me off....so I agree that you need to strengthen the surrounding muscles but also pay attention to pain..several weeks without climbing in the summer is not fun. Good luck....


gogo


Apr 15, 2005, 12:23 PM
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Yeah, be careful with that spot. I injured it campusing on really overhung terrain in february, and I've been in physical therapy for the past six weeks since I didn't take care of it as quickly as I should have. Look up excercises for the antagonist muscles and the stabilizing muscles of the shoulder joint, and be careful not to overtrain. I only injured mine mildly (rotator cuff sprain) but if you tear it it can mean a lot of time away from climbing.


mrfantastic


Apr 15, 2005, 12:33 PM
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Well it looks like shoulders are a common injury to climbers, the past two posts sound totally like me last year. I also partially tore my rotator cuff climbing (was trying to do this nasty mantle move) last summer. Didn't think much of it that day, just like I had a good burn in my shoulders, but then two days later I could barely lift my arm above my head. Went to the doc and he said I had to rest it and do certain arm lift excersizes for PT the next 6 weeks :cry: ...Needless to say it sucked, and even to this day my shoulder still gets really tight and aches when I climb hard. I hear it's one of those injuries that never really go away or heal... :(

So my best advice to you, take it easy on your shoulder if you feel some muscle pain. Better to let it relax before you screw it up for the long term. Maybe work on some more technical climbs for now until it feels strong again...


scotchie


Apr 15, 2005, 12:38 PM
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A few months ago I started developing pain in various parts of my back, generally around the edges of the shoulder blade, after climbing. I pretty much ignored it for a while until I had to stop climbing one day because I had excrutiating pain after I tried a hard move, and after that I continued to have horrible pain for at least a week afterwards.

1. I bought a book on climbing training and developed a stretching routing based partly on the book, partly on my own experience and what seemed to feel good.

2. I finally improved my office ergonomics and got an external monitor for my laptop (laptops are horrible for your back, neck, and shoulders).

Now I feel a lot better. Still get sore in very small amounts but it's always gone about a day after climbing, and overall almost perfect.

BTW, for immediate relief try icing it. Or better: hot water treatment, followed by gentle massage, and end by icing it.

Good luck!!!!


rradjc


Apr 15, 2005, 12:41 PM
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One thing I learned from the problems with my right shoulder recently - there is no such thing as 'good pain'.
I had the x-rays and MRIs and physical therapy done on my shoulder. I came away with a very minor problem (compared to a torn labram or rotator cuff); of inflammation in the joint. From rock climbing and other activities I've built up the major muscles in my back and back shoulder area, but have not worked the minor muscles, this has resulted in the larger muscles sort of pushing the ball from the socket and in result causing pain. Most pronounced after powering through overhangs and extended reaches. The prescription for me is weight training of those minor muscles and chest to balance the muscles and therefore protect the joint.
No matter how much you want to go bouldering, make sure to ease off and listen when your body tells you something's not right, otherwise it could lead to worse injury. Better to lay off a day or two as opposed to a mandatory 8 months or more...


arjunrattan


Apr 15, 2005, 12:59 PM
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thanks for all the info guys,

though i donno my pain in the shouder isnt really pain as such..its purely the muscle! ..basically it feels like kinda stiff...exactly like your bicep would feel when you work out hard and wake up next morning...ive had this type of pain before and it usually goes away wen i take a day or two off... anyway thanks alot for your experiences... ill be more aware of my shouders muscle as it seems a lil carelessness could result in a major injury...and i dont want that to happen right now...wen im like at my strongest and the climbing season is here...

take care


arjunrattan


Apr 15, 2005, 1:00 PM
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thanks for all the info guys,

though i donno my pain in the shouder isnt really pain as such..its purely the muscle! ..basically it feels like kinda stiff...exactly like your bicep would feel when you work out hard and wake up next morning...ive had this type of pain before and it usually goes away wen i take a day or two off... anyway thanks alot for your experiences... ill be more aware of my shouders muscle as it seems a lil carelessness could result in a major injury...and i dont want that to happen right now...wen im like at my strongest and the climbing season is here...

take care


arjunrattan


Apr 15, 2005, 1:01 PM
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thanks for all the info guys,

though i donno my pain in the shouder isnt really pain as such..its purely the muscle! ..basically it feels like kinda stiff...exactly like your bicep would feel when you work out hard and wake up next morning...ive had this type of pain before and it usually goes away wen i take a day or two off... anyway thanks alot for your experiences... ill be more aware of my shouders muscle as it seems a lil carelessness could result in a major injury...and i dont want that to happen right now...wen im like at my strongest and the climbing season is here...

take care


arjunrattan


Apr 15, 2005, 1:02 PM
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yikes why three times??? sorry bout that but i cannot delete it...mods???? help??


Partner blonde_loves_bolts


Apr 15, 2005, 1:29 PM
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The pain you're describing sounds like good pain... it's pretty easy for anyone who routinely does athletic activity to distinguish between aching (good) vs. shooting (bad) pains. Bouldering is primarily a strength based activity (as opposed to running, rowing, etc), which means part of building muscle is tearing it during activity so your body can reconstruct. For this reason, most authorities don't recommend doing strength workouts everyday so your body has a chance to heal.

The other thing that could help would be to put a heating pad on the affected area before working out, but NEVER if it is already inflamed (meaning you just hurt it and the pain hasn't dulled). You can also ice just about anything after workouts. A combination of both helps to loosen your muscles before working out and with stopping any inflamation afterwards.

So heat before, ice after, eat/drink plenty of protein (especially before you sleep at night, as your body does most reconstruction during REM sleep), and happy climbing :)


gogo


Apr 17, 2005, 11:10 AM
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Oh, I almost spaced one thing that has really helped (but a lot of climbers ignore) is consciously working on posture. Because of the muscles worked while climbing, the shoulders and chest tend to pull forward, resulting in bad posture and extra stress on the shoulder joints. Just working on sitting up straight in class or making sure your shoulders aren't slumped forward all the time helps boost recovery.

Paz,
Mike


sleepy


Apr 17, 2005, 11:49 AM
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As someone who is going through a rather lenghty time of waiting for an injury to heal, I can tell you that one of the most important things you can do before you climb is to STRECH. I seperated my shoulder at work and have been on the DL for the last 4 months. Can't climb for another 2 :evil:

If you are experiencing pain in your muscles after a climb, strech and rehydrate. As mentioned before it is also important to work opposite muscles. THis helps keep your body in balance. You also mentioned that you take a day off...well, it might take a few more days to recover. Try to take 3 or 4 days off. Good luck


gochubug


Apr 17, 2005, 8:58 PM
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Re: shouder muscle pain(after overhanging climbing) [In reply to]
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In reply to:
though i donno my pain in the shouder isnt really pain as such..its purely the muscle!
There is another thread on this forum called overuse injuries where I mentioned this, but it bears repeating here because you sound very much like what I've been experiencing.

I got symptoms that sound just like yours a few months ago, from cranking hard on overhangs just like you. It wouldn't get better even after laying off entirely and being my wife's belay slave for two full weeks. So I went to the orthopaedist who said it was referred pain from impingement on the bursa in my shoulder. Translation: some underlying tissue (bursa) in my shoulder was getting inflamed and that made a bone press down on it, but some kind of nerve connection made me feel the pain down in my arm rather than up in the shoulder (referred pain). He gave me a cortisone shot which helped, but didn't completely do away with it.

It is slowing healing, but I'm still not back to normal even yet.

This is nasty stuff. Better see that orthopaedist!


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