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crackedribs
Apr 19, 2005, 11:21 PM
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Registered: Oct 31, 2002
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Hi I am planning my first trip to the City of Rocks and Caslte Rock and was looking for some suggestions for routes: trad up to around 10+ sport up to 12ish multi-pitch any off-widths or chimneys you know of? Thanks
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esallen
Apr 20, 2005, 12:12 AM
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Registered: Jul 11, 2004
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Lost Arrow Spire
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mesomorf
Apr 20, 2005, 1:18 AM
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In reply to: any off-widths or chimneys you know of? Bobcat Crack is a good 'un. But I guess that's called 11. For something easier, do Claw Marks. Vertical Turtle is one of Brutus of Wyde's favorites. Its twin, Squeezebox, may never have seen a second ascent, and not for lack of quality. Nearby is Half Moon Crack. Donini's Crack and that one named for a motorcycle near the summit/water pump [edit: "Interceptor"; very easy compared to Bobcat] are must-dos.
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rockprodigy
Apr 20, 2005, 3:35 PM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2002
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There are a lot of good sport routes that I know of in that range at Castle Rock. "Country Wester Ballad" is a 5.11 bolted arete to the right of "Southern Rock Opera" which is the very obvious, left-angling splitter on the south facing summit block of Castle Rock. there are a number of 5.10-5.11 bolted routes in the "Hostess Gulley" of Castle Rock. On the North end of castle rock, one of the first walls you see when you hike in has an 11c (Castles made of Sand) and 12b (It's Hard to be a Saint in the City) that are good sport routes. There's a good 10b warmup there too (Crimson Arete). Those are actually steep routes that warrant the term "sport climbing". Most everything else around there is slabby.
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crankenstein
Apr 20, 2005, 3:52 PM
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Registered: Dec 20, 2002
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For trad, don't miss Bloody Fingers and Thin Slice. 2 excellent lines. There are many notable sport lines, one of the best is She's the Bosch. Have fun!
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esperante
Jun 23, 2005, 1:41 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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(i may be a little late in saying this, but for any newcomers to the discussion...) one of the best 5.12's i've done is Gemini, on the back of Bath Rock. plus right there you have Private Idaho (5.9), which has a chimney variant (quite fun). or up the hill, there is a crack called Bloody Fingers (5.10) for multi-pitch, i would say jackson's thumb, big time and little time on castle rock, or raindance on the back of flaming rock. (plus you can rappel down onto one of the best 5.10's in the city.
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