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Who / Where Am I??
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couchwarrior


Apr 19, 2005, 8:25 PM
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Okay, since trivia games seem to be popular around these parts, I'm going to fire one up. I will give you a bit of a story and you tell me who I am and where I am. As I haven't read a climbing mag in 10 years and couldn't boulder V0, most of these questions will be trad or alpinism related. If my contest is intermittent, it's because I'm away from the web. If my contest sux, I'm sure my good brethren at rc.com will let me know. . . so, away we go!!

We established 5 camps to get to the summit, and I was the only guy on our team with much mountaineering experience. This was an historic climb, as nobody from our country has ever climbed an 8000 meter peak. It's July 5th 1958 and me and Andy are on the summit. Who and where am I??

Updated Scoring

Tradnomad 3
Edge 2
Polarwid 1.5
Magicbus 1
Micronut 1
Brian in SLC 1
Golsen 1
Troutboy 1


couchwarrior


Apr 20, 2005, 8:24 AM
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Magicbus comes with the correct answer!!

Okay, here's the next round. . . in 1965 I managed to get the first ascent of a peak that was named after my brother. I was helped out by a few notable mountaineers. Who / where am I?


edge


Apr 20, 2005, 8:30 AM
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RFK on Mt Kennedy.


couchwarrior


Apr 20, 2005, 8:41 AM
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Fast answer from Edge! Guess I'd better make these harder. . .

I once said, "All the second ascensionists of my routes on El Capitan have had to drill again." Who am I?


golsen


Apr 20, 2005, 9:42 AM
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Jim Bridwell


couchwarrior


Apr 20, 2005, 12:32 PM
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Bridwell is correct!

It's October 7th, 1989 and I am staggering down to basecamp after completing a new route on an 8000 meter peak. My two partners turned around early after floundering in avalanche chutes and a frightful bivouac. I continued on, soloing and self-belaying, protected by pitons I could pull out with my fingers. Eventually my rope freezes and I cut it loose. I bivouac at 8100 meters, make the summit, and fight my way down. Along the way, I am avalanched 200 meters, losing an ice axe and radio. Two days later, blinded in the snow, I am avalanched another 400 meters, losing my mittens, my other axe, and my stove. But I make base camp!

Who / where am I?


tradnomad


Apr 20, 2005, 12:57 PM
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Stephen Venables, on the Kangshung face of Everest


couchwarrior


Apr 20, 2005, 1:01 PM
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In reply to:
Stephen Venables, on the Kangshung face of Everest

Nope. Venables had his Everest epic in May 1988 - good guess though, as he was the only member to summit.


mrtristan


Apr 20, 2005, 2:02 PM
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Anatoli Boukreev on the Kangchenjunga traverse?


couchwarrior


Apr 20, 2005, 2:30 PM
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Anatoli Boukreev on the Kangchenjunga traverse?

Nope. Tolya was one of 9 Soviet climbers to complete the traverse and he did it in May 1989.


tradnomad


Apr 20, 2005, 3:07 PM
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I'll try another guess... Tomo Cesen on the Wall of Shadows??


couchwarrior


Apr 20, 2005, 3:18 PM
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In reply to:
I'll try another guess... Tomo Cesen on the Wall of Shadows??

Nope, but another good guess. Actually, the guy I'm looking for tried the Wall of Shadows for 2 months in 1983.


tradnomad


Apr 21, 2005, 5:56 AM
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OK, I think I've got it... Pierre Beghin on Makalu.


couchwarrior


Apr 21, 2005, 9:12 AM
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In reply to:
OK, I think I've got it... Pierre Beghin on Makalu.

Tradnomad scores! Pierre later pulled a rap anchor and fell off Annapurna, leaving an epic descent for JC LaFaille.

Okay, next question! I wrote, "The most important corollary of clean climbing is boldness. When cracks that will accept nuts peter out, long unprotected runouts can result, and the leader of commitment must be prepared to accept the consequences that are only too clearly defined. Personal qualities - judgment, concentration, boldness, the ordeal by fire - take precedence, as they should, over mere hardware."

Who am I?


troutboy


Apr 21, 2005, 9:21 AM
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Doug Robinson - The Whole Natural Art of Protection.


couchwarrior


Apr 21, 2005, 11:20 AM
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Troutboy scores!

It's July 21st, 1977 and I am the first person to stand on the summit of this Karakoram peak. I am being belayed by perhaps the finest high-altitude mountianeer in American history and my expedition is being led by Galen Rowell. Who am I, where am I, (and for a half-point bonus) who is belaying me?


tradnomad


Apr 21, 2005, 11:41 AM
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Derek Hennek (???) belayed by Kim Schmitz onto the summit of Great Trango Tower


couchwarrior


Apr 21, 2005, 11:52 AM
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In reply to:
Derek Hennek (???) belayed by Kim Schmitz onto the summit of Great Trango Tower

Right summit, almost right climber (Dennis Hennek), wrong belayer. I'll give you a point but the bonus for the belayer is still in play!


Partner polarwid


Apr 21, 2005, 1:48 PM
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John Roskelly was the belayer...


couchwarrior


Apr 26, 2005, 1:58 PM
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In reply to:
John Roskelly was the belayer...

You are correct, John Roskelley was indeed the belayer.

"Climbing frozen waterfalls appears to the uninformed observer to be a complicated if somewhat novel form of suicide. Quite often the same thought is worming its way uneasily through the mind of a hapless climber."

For one point, who is the famous alpinist who said this? And for another point, what famous Colorado ice climb was he thinking about in particular?


g-funk
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Apr 26, 2005, 2:46 PM
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A shot in the dark, but is that Mark Twight?


couchwarrior


Apr 26, 2005, 3:07 PM
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In reply to:
A shot in the dark, but is that Mark Twight?

Nope, not Doctor Doom.


micronut


Apr 26, 2005, 3:14 PM
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doug robinson, east side clean climbing pioneer

edit: oh shit, i was on the wrong page


micronut


Apr 26, 2005, 3:18 PM
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In reply to:

For one point, who is the famous alpinist who said this? And for another point, what famous Colorado ice climb was he thinking about in particular?

Jeff Lowe, Bridalveil Falls


couchwarrior


Apr 26, 2005, 4:16 PM
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In reply to:
Jeff Lowe, Bridalveil Falls

Right climb, wrong climber! One point for micronut.

Here is another quote / clue from the climber I'm looking for:

"Hitting the ground feet first with crampons on your boots tends to splinter leg bones with alarming efficiency. I know. I've done it twice now."

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