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wolfman31
Apr 22, 2005, 3:32 AM
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Since I started climbing I see this phrase all over the place. What does it mean ? It sounds like the standard equipment required for outdoor climbing but I'm not sure what that is. Can someone please explain what a standard rack consist of for climbing in Milton Ontario.
Thanks
Wolfman
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aulwes
Apr 22, 2005, 3:34 AM
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alpnclmbr1
Apr 22, 2005, 4:10 AM
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A generalized standard rack would be something along the lines of:
.75 - #3 camalots
a few aliens
a set and a half of stoppers
bunch of biners and runners
Fine tune it to a standard rack for a specific climbing area.
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jerrygarcia
Apr 22, 2005, 4:23 AM
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In reply to: Fine tune it to a standard rack for a specific climbing area. |
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petsfed
Apr 22, 2005, 4:30 AM
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In reply to: A generalized standard rack would be something along the lines of: .75 - #3 camalots a few aliens a set and a half of stoppers bunch of biners and runners Fine tune it to a standard rack for a specific climbing area.
The more experience you get, the less of that you need to bring. Also, camalots and aliens are a great combination, but sometimes hard to come by.
Think more in terms of .5 inch to 3.5 inches (that's about 10 mm to 70 mm, for you non-imperial types). Try to get a good set of cams that covers that range with no gaps. Any regular set of nuts (WC Rocks, BD Stoppers, Metolius Curve Nuts, Smileys, Huevos, etc) should do, just get the whole set and you're good to go. A good selection of slings will do you fine. That's a standard rack for most of the places I've been to, but I've never been where you are.
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littlejames
Apr 22, 2005, 5:06 AM
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If you're strapped for cash, you can get by at some climbing areas with a set of hexes augmenting a smaller-than-standard collection of cams. Note that I say SOME climbing areas.
For example, I'm Australian, and climb(ed) mostly sport at Nowra/Blueys. I didn't want to buy a full set of cams just for the occasional low-grade trad routes I did at Arapiles and the Grampians from time to time, since that would cost me roughly half my yearly student allowance. So I bought and reslung a full rack of hexes from a friend (who I trusted to take care of his gear - second hand isn't generally a good idea, I think) for a couple of hundred dollars, and combined with a couple of medium Camalots (better expansion range, hence they fit more for less) I haven't looked back. :)
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mistertyler
Apr 22, 2005, 5:22 AM
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In reply to: ....So I bought and reslung a full rack of hexes from a friend (who I trusted to take care of his gear - second hand isn't generally a good idea, I think) for a couple of hundred dollars....
You paid a couple hundred dollars for a set of hexes? I would have sold you mine for as little as $150. :wink:
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andrewbanandrew
Apr 22, 2005, 5:32 AM
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Remember he's paying Australian dollars
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tradrenn
Apr 24, 2005, 2:07 AM
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Where you are about to climb is a lot of loose limestone so try to keep your rack "passive" , cams are nice just make sure you get a flexible ones and not forged ( those suck in horizontal placements ) and get a set of stoppers in Milton area there is so many climbs you can do with just nuts.
For ex. climbs CRACK 1 2 2.5 can be done with stoppers and only 3 or 4 placements.
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wolfman31
Apr 24, 2005, 3:59 AM
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Thanks for the info. Can I get away with 12 quickdraws. I thought the routes around here were bolted. My understanding is that cams are for squeezing in the cracks and they seem a little expensive to start. My first time out will be brutal and I would just like to clip and go if you know what I mean.
Wolfman
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philfell
Apr 24, 2005, 4:23 AM
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If the guide book says "standard rack" it usually means that the climb is not bolted and you'll need to know how to place gear. Look for climbs that only list quickdraws as gear needed.
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trickster
Apr 24, 2005, 5:57 AM
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Good to start with a couple of NUTS!
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a_scender
Apr 24, 2005, 9:37 AM
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And if you don't know how to use that standard rack don't just but one and go climbing. It takes practice learning to place gear and the best way is to have someone with experience teach you. And if wyou find said someone they probably all ready have a "standard rack". HAve fun out there.
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jumpingrock
Apr 26, 2005, 2:43 PM
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Unless you climb 5.10 and above there isn't much in terms of clip and go around Milton. On the other hand, you can easily set up TR's at both Rattlesnake and Buffalo so all you really need is some webbing, lockers, tree padding and most importantly, INSTRUCTION, on how to use them properly.
Buy the guide book. There are a couple for the area: Escarpment and Sport Climbs in Southern Ontario (I think that's what it is called, I don't own it)
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wolfman31
Apr 27, 2005, 3:48 AM
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Sure I climb 5.10 and 5.11 at they gym. I don't know how close that is to climbing 5.10 outdoors. Toproping is fine. I just want to know what I should bring. I've only been climbing for about 4 months. The gear I have is shoes, harness, atc, 2 screwgates and I'm about to purchase a 60m rope the next time I make it to mec. What am I missing here ? maybe a chain or strap for tying to a tree ?
Wolfman
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tradrenn
Apr 27, 2005, 11:18 PM
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Level of your climbing is all differenet indoors and outdoors so take my advice and start easy, let say from 5.4 and if you find that too easy go one step higher to 5.5 and so on. I'm talking about top rope. Leading is all diffrent mental game. When you set your top rope please do not use CEDARS at all, they are protected by law and there is also a fine of up to $1000.00 for slinging a CEDAR. You can use any other tree just please cover its bark with blanket or piece of carpet. So next time you are at MEC you should get yourself some 1 inch wide nylon tape, 2 pcs about 15m. long (or 75 feet) and each of them different colour. Now, the first one is your main point of assecuration and the second is your back-up.
I'm assuming you know the knots, how to set toprope, what CEDAR looks like, etc, wright ?
If you want to lead there is only one 5.7 sport rpute that is bolted and the rest starts usually at about 5.10a.
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wolfman31
May 2, 2005, 6:10 AM
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I want to lead and toprope. I did make friends at the gym and will be going with someone who has a lot of outdoor experience. Thanks for all your replies. I'll see you on the rock this summer.
WM
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thinksinpictures
May 2, 2005, 7:02 AM
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In reply to: What am I missing here ? maybe a chain or strap for tying to a tree ?
With all due respect, what you are missing is the knowledge to set up a toprope by yourself. Find a partner who has experience to show you how, and if you're going to spend money on gear, a copy of The Freedom of the Hills would be a good initial investment.
Have fun and be safe.
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scottquig
May 2, 2005, 7:11 AM
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You're missing somebody to show you how to do it. Also, I have climbed 5.11 in a gym and still get stuck on many 5.8 and 5.9's outside. Ratings are different everywhere, and usually gym routes are inflated.
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wolfman31
May 3, 2005, 7:34 AM
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I will be going with someone. I thought I mentioned that in the previous post. He is a good responsible guy and has several years of indoor and outdoor experience. This is more of a learning trip. If I get one to two runs in I'm happy.
WM
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scottquig
May 3, 2005, 4:07 PM
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Then why are you asking us for advice on a rack? Why don't you ask him, or better yet...use his rack! Let me guess, he's not experienced in trad. Then yes, my comment still stands. You need an experienced TRAD climber to show you. It's not enough to just have the right rack.
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tradrenn
May 7, 2005, 2:48 AM
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In reply to: You need an experienced TRAD climber to show you. It's not enough to just have the right rack.
I would agree 100 %
Your life depends on it.
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hangerlessbolt
May 7, 2005, 4:45 AM
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You now have an understanding of what is meant by the term "standard rack", but more importantly...you've learned that you don't need a rack.
The only gear you need is a qualified guide.... and we don't mean one of the gym rats or one of the many "how-to rockclimb" books/ videos...we mean by an old, crusty hardened trad-daddy or a long-time bigwall climber.
It may cost you a few beers...and hauling his/her shit...but what you'll learn will be worth a lot more than a $60 cam. The things you learn, you can carry with for a lifetime...all over the world.
Find a good mentor and be a good student.
Ask questions...not only the "how's", but also the "why's".
Quite honestly, if I had the time and the money I would spend every day out on the rocks with new climbers. It's a joy to assist folks with the first steps in their climbing journey.
For a lot of us...climbing isn't what we do...it's who we are.
You're primary focus for the time being should be footwork...body position...and finding a solid mentor.
Good Luck!
-RB
(Quick note:your impact to your local climbing area affects all of us. So, please, be safe)
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norite
May 9, 2005, 6:47 PM
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If you're going to buy a rope at MEC Toronto, ask the climbing department staff to help you, I have found them to be very knowledgeagble.
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