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xcit
Jul 4, 2002, 4:53 AM
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Registered: Mar 29, 2002
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We're headed to longs peak really soon and was just wondering if anyone has beta on the cable route? Do we need climbing shoes to get up this route? What about cams? I read in the book there are still old bolts you can use to rap off of. Thanks
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couloir
Jul 4, 2002, 5:18 AM
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There are several large eye bolts along the cable route that you can clip into if you feel the need to rope up. It's the common descent route, since it's easy to rap down. Bill Brasky once rode a saucer sled down the route, chugging Kentucky Gentleman the whole way down! It was the most beautiful thing I've ever seen! [ This Message was edited by: couloir on 2002-07-03 22:19 ]
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bradhill
Jul 4, 2002, 6:20 AM
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You don't need climbing shoes for the route. You'll be better off bringing sturdy boots. Lots of folks free solo it. I did it the first week of spring with a good deal of snow and ice still in the dihedral, so I chose to protect it. A set of nuts, a few hexes and some slings are more than sufficient. The first bolt, described in many guides, is now gone, which makes finding the bottom of the climb a bit trickier. ] As for routefinding after the bolts run out, just keep left. Stay pretty close to the edge. And don't go down the Keyhole. The Cables is better and safer, if you're up to it.
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xcit
Jul 4, 2002, 6:16 PM
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Damn couloir, you're all over the place! Did you ever catch anything about your crashpads?? We'll be leaving for CO on 7/5 and returning 7/14. We'll need to try to hook up at Sams Throne sometime, or better yet go to CO or the Whichata Mtns in Oklahoma. Is the cable route the shortest route up longs peak? On average what will be the ascent time for this route? We have a 200ft rope which I assume will be fine for repelling back down.
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bradhill
Jul 4, 2002, 8:18 PM
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Yeah, the Cables is the shortest route up and down Longs. It's still a long way, though. From the parking lot, it's 16 miles round trip with 5000' of elevation gain. If you're not used to being at altitude, those miles can go slower than you think. Get started at 4-5 am so you can be off the top before the usual afternoon thunderstorms roll in.
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