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bellaitalia
Apr 27, 2005, 3:17 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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I just bought a pair of Nepal Extreme boots for this summer and I'm wondering about which crampons to buy. I was thinking about the BD Sabertooth step-ins. Does anyone know if these fit well with the Nepals? Also, do you have any other suggestions for good crampons? I'm currently living in northern Italy, so ordering stuff from the States can get expensive.
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euroford
Apr 27, 2005, 4:06 PM
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
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in my experience, BD crampons have always fit very nicely on lasportiva boots. to fit my bd bionics to my nepals i did trim a little of rubber off the heal just so i could get them from 'tight' to 'extra tight'. though i do not personally have sabretooths i have heard they are excellent crampons. i've heard of them performing very well on anything from glaciers to WI5 and i think others on site will testify. though personally i chose the bionics as at this point i'm focused almost exclusivly on waterfall ice and prefer the forged frontpoints, i won't hesitate to pick up some sabretooths when the need arises. oh yeah: and definitly get the antibots!
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tradman
Apr 27, 2005, 4:11 PM
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Registered: Jan 14, 2003
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I use Nepal Extremes with step-in Grivel G-14s, and they're a superb combination. The G-14s only have one position for mono points, but with the Nepals, that falls right under the big toe and gives first class feedback and support. But as euroford said, whatever you do, get the anti-balling plates!!!! :wink:
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darkside
Apr 27, 2005, 4:45 PM
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Registered: Sep 15, 2001
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Your choice of crampon will depend on the type of climbing you do. For general mountaineering and snow/glacier travel you will want dual horizontal frontpoints. For vertical water ice climbing you are better off with vertically oriented front points. For pure ice routes the choice of mono or dual frontpoints is pretty much a matter of preference although it will be influenced by local ice and how much tendancy there is for frontpoints to shear. For mixed routes and hard ice, many climbers prefer the advantages of monopoints. As you haven't specified what sort of climbing you intend to do, no recomendations to specific brands or models will help you much at this point. For what it's worth, I prefer vertical waterfall ice with some occasional mixed climbing or sometimes I encounter mixed sections. I don't do much mountaineering or alpine and have yet to cross a glacier. For what I do climb, I have the Nepal Extreme boots with the Grivel Rambo Comp monopoint crampons. I have done many types of ice in them up to and including W5 ice. They suit me and perform extremely well with three notable drawbacks. 1) The mono's tend to shear when the ice is very soft or highly chandeliered. 1) The back raked tertiary points can skate when standing pointing downhill on hard ice during descents. 3) With no anti-botts, I get snowballing when the snow is wet. I tried some BD Bionics one time but didn't like the way they match to the Nepals. Maybe trimming the boot is a neccesity but I felt there were better fitting crampons than the Bionics. Being situated in Italy, you may get a good price on Grivel equipment. If not particularly the Rambo Comps, other grivel gear is pretty good too because Grivel have been around long enough to know good designs. You may also get good prices on Charlet Moser gear now known as Petzl-Charlet.
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paulraphael
Apr 27, 2005, 6:47 PM
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Registered: Feb 6, 2004
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whether horizontal or vertical points are better in ice really depends on conditions (and region). Here's Will Gadd's (Canadian Rockies) perspective: http://www.gravsports.com/Gear%20Folder/Cobras,%20Sabretooths.htm
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jude
Apr 28, 2005, 1:27 AM
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Registered: Jul 2, 2003
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I love my Sabretooths and would recommend them for everyone who needs a good crampon for mountains and moderate ice. I use them for ice with no problems, but I've never climbed beyond WI4, so it depends on your intended use. To not answer your original question, I climb in Koflach's so can't help you there, I just love the crampons. Some advice: I have the toe strap/heel bail and I recommend it. It will fit more boots, goes on just as fast, and, IMHO, is less likely to pop. If you're going to be on snow, get the anti-balling plates. The misery and danger of your crampons balling up when your tired and sloppy, and the sun is up and it's hotter than Hades on your descent, makes them worth the money and weight. Just my $0.02 Jude
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takanhase
Apr 28, 2005, 2:50 AM
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Registered: Mar 8, 2004
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I have used both BD sabertooth and more recently grivel G-12's with a pair of la sportiva makalus. if you are looking for somthing thats good on glacier/ snow/Ice sloggs then I would recomend both very highly, The only problem I see with the new BD sabertooth (I may be wrong) is how easy is it is to sharpen the serrated points once that razor edge goes away :? Hope this helps. Mike
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tempestwind
Apr 28, 2005, 12:39 PM
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Registered: Mar 23, 2004
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My G-12s fit nicely on my Koflachs...I have to stretch them out though to fit on my nhuptses though.
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montaniero
Apr 28, 2005, 1:29 PM
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Registered: Jul 1, 2004
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I have the same setup (Nepals + Sabertooths, or should I say Saberteeth?). They fit perfectly. Although I Have one question for you: How much does a pair of LS Nepal Extremes run for in Northern Italy? Thanks.
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johnhemlock
Apr 28, 2005, 3:34 PM
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Registered: Apr 10, 2004
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I use Sabretooths with 2 different models of La Sportiva boots and they do everything great. The fact I can't climb WI 5 is more related to my skills than my tools. The center strap detached on me once in the middle of an ice pitch but I think that had more to do with my quick and sloppy preparation that day than the crampon. The wire toe bail kind work fine with La Sportiva. As for ABS plates - make your own using the info in the link below. It's a ripoff they aren't included, anyway. http://www.rockandice.com/guide%20tip/guide%20tip.125.html
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bellaitalia
Apr 29, 2005, 6:03 AM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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I just bought my Nepal Extremes for 254 euro. I'm not sure what the exchange rate is right now but that's in the vicinity of $320-330.
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