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New Guide Changes Long Established Ratings from the 40's
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redpointadventures


Sep 7, 2001, 9:54 AM
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New Guide Changes Long Established Ratings from the 40's  (North_America: United_States: Maryland: Central__Md_: Carderock)
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Rob Borotkanics new guide for Carderock is finally out to mixed reviews.

First the possitive, nice photos and descriptions of variations and smaller related areas.

Then, for some reason, the ratings for some of the climbs have been changed. I noticed none of the climbs were given easier ratings. It seems the climbs over 5.10 have gotten harder then when I first redpointed them.

Everyone knows the rating system is relative. The PATC guide does an excellent job of describing the rating system. The + or - system may not be as accurate as a,b,c, and d but this is splitting hairs. I knew Mad Dog (5.10+) was a hard climb and when I first attempted it could not believe that it was rated a ten, but, after working it and redpointing it several times, it feels ten. Carderock 11 climbs are more difficult than Mad Dog. That's what the rating system does, it approximates the difficulty.

Can you change the rating of a climb
if you can't climb it? What would be a good reason for changing a rating?

Climbs go unrated untill they are completed and are usually rated by the first climber to redpoint the climb. After all, they understand the difficulties of the climb best. Is it right to decide years later that the first lead or redpoint climber lacked the expertise to rate their own projects?




[ This Message was edited by: redpointadventures on 2001-09-08 12:56 ]

[ This Message was edited by: redpointadventures on 2001-09-10 11:23 ]


binerbaby


Sep 10, 2001, 7:18 PM
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New Guide Changes Long Established Ratings from the 40's [In reply to]
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Totally disagree! See my previous email message & new posting entitled Rob's Book.
x's and o's. bb


binerbaby


Sep 30, 2001, 7:28 AM
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New Guide Changes Long Established Ratings from the 40's [In reply to]
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Scout -

Have you climbed out west? I've never consistently climbed harder than 5.10 here, but out there I climbed 5.11b (on slab climbs) & that was still easier than mad dog. I think the climbs around here are capable of sandbagging people easily if they are from another area - which I guess isn't that dangerous since its just TR, but still it's the principle. Like I said on my posting, I'm glad that Rob changed the ratings.









rjbonz


Nov 26, 2001, 4:46 PM
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New Guide Changes Long Established Ratings from the 40's [In reply to]
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I love these emoticons. They're cool.
Ok, on to business.
Chuck, you refer to Mad Dog as 5.10. There is one problem. The route you are discussing is actually Fee, Fee, the left variation of Mad Dog. I have watched you climb this many times. This route is 5.10, as you stated. Mad Dog moves right at the comfortable stance above the first crux, then you move up, not using the good holds to the far left. I am yet to hear anyone call this anything less than 5.11. . . . that is, with the exception of Jeff, who thinks it is only a 5.7.
Regardless, thanks for posting a chat. I am not trying to slam anyone; I'm merely providing clarification. I am glad to witness people discussing these issues. Critical thought and discussion is good and benefits the entire Carderock climbing community.

I like this waving one the most.
wallrat@carderockbigwall.com

[ This Message was edited by: rjbonz on 2001-11-26 17:06 ]


redpointadventures


Apr 3, 2002, 7:04 AM
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New Guide Changes Long Established Ratings from the 40's [In reply to]
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I am familiar with the versions of this climb and have completed the right hand version with and without the pocket. I usually down climb on Fi Fi. Seems I remember flashing a version of it and giving you beta on the high step after the stance. Let me know if you need a demonstration.

[ This Message was edited by: redpointadventures on 2002-04-05 08:32 ]


binerbaby


Feb 19, 2003, 6:31 PM
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New Guide Changes Long Established Ratings from the 40's [In reply to]
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what-ev-er. it still deserves the higher rating.
I was on MD a few weeks ago & noticed a few new holds on the right side!!
Also new holds on Fingernails.
Thought something was missing on Merv's.


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