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rouge
May 3, 2005, 6:19 AM
Post #1 of 2
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Registered: Nov 13, 2003
Posts: 14
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Ok, so I've driven the road numerous times, craning my neck with one eye on the rock and one on the road. I've walked around and bouldered on some of the rock near the LT heading North. I know I've heard someone mention some climbs. Whats established there? Is there anything established? Anchors, bolts, cleaned off routes? Someone give up the beta.
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tradmanclimbs
Jun 7, 2005, 6:32 PM
Post #2 of 2
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Registered: Apr 24, 2003
Posts: 2341
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Brandon gap is pretty good adventure climbing for vt. loos rock and burly approach keep the riff raff away, the most strikeing feature is the finger rock. A 70 ft spire high on the right side of the tallus. the west face of this spire goes free at 10+ but most climbers end up doing the 5.9 A0 thing :lol: Pin, 2bolts, micro wire. There are actualy 2 spires with a notch between them. Starting from within that notch head straight up the south face of the larger spire past 3 bolts 10+ kind of brave. i bolted this one on lead but never made it verry far past the last bolt. i did hear that it had been freed. the smaller spire is wourth climbing. the west face is short well protected 5.7. Step through the notch and swing out onto the east face(you will be 25ft off the deck when you swing out of the notch) climb a thin seam past a pin? 5.7+ PG I did not place a pin on the FA and called it Birds of Prey 5.7+X It is pretty fun and reasonable with the fixed pin. bolted rap anchors on top of both spires. the larger spire was origionaly an aid climb put up in 1981. I don't hasve the FA's names handy right now. the upper cliff is closed for birds untill august 1st . we did a nice 90ft left faceing dihedral in 98, called it Perrigan dihedral 5.9 I took a 30ft gear ripper out of it in dec. 2000 (cold and icy) The last time i was up there my bail gear was still there? It is wourth doing and on the upper cliff a bit right of the finger rocks. Lots of other stuff up there. Who knows what has been done. We did a grade 3 ice climb in86 and called it a beer or a beer. In 87 we did a grade 4. both right up the center of the main cliff.
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