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Red Rocks: Screwed if it rains?
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runningclimber


May 5, 2005, 11:05 AM
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Red Rocks: Screwed if it rains?  (North_America: United_States: Nevada: Red_Rock_Canyon: A_Red_Rock_Overview)
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I'm headed to Vegas tonight and am hoping to climb Red Rocks tomorrow. I've been looking forward to this for months! And now the forecast is calling for rain?! What is going on out there? :cry:

I know about the whole wet sandstone issue, and would never do anything to jeopardize the rocks or my own safety...but are there any dry options in Red Rocks if it rains? Especially, options that aren't super hard? I'm a relatively new leader, and I haven't lead outside since last October. Unfortunately I only have Friday to climb, so heading down to Josh or something is out of the question...

Grrrrr. I am gonna be so angry if my one climbing day is shot! :evil:


tchamber


May 5, 2005, 11:23 AM
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Re: Red Rocks: Screwed if it rains? [In reply to]
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Yeah, don't climb on sandstone for a day after it rains... It likes to break, and protection likes to pull... Really not a good situation...

You might want to check the RouteDB, but I don't know of any harder rock out that way. It's about 2-3 hours to New Jack City in Barstow... but that's the closest thing I personally know of.


sactownclimber


May 5, 2005, 11:25 AM
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Re: Red Rocks: Screwed if it rains? [In reply to]
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When I was in Vegas last August it rained while we were there, and we went up to Mt. Charleston and did some sport climbing, and it was mostly dry there.


runningclimber


May 5, 2005, 11:56 AM
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Re: Red Rocks: Screwed if it rains? [In reply to]
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It doesn't seem like there's much at Mt. Charleston under 5.10. I've actually never lead anything over 5.9, and my partner doesn't lead at all. Just one of the reasons I was looking forward to getting some quality laps in on the easy, well-protected red rocks stuff.

Growl. Oh well. Sounds like I will be hanging out in the casino with the rest of the tourist schmucks!


kungfuclimber


May 5, 2005, 11:57 AM
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Re: Red Rocks: Screwed if it rains? [In reply to]
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hmm.. I think Vegastradguy would be best in answering this. My very limited knowledge tells me that anything remotely dry will be very overhanging and therefore hard.

Do you like hiking? :?


roadman33


May 5, 2005, 12:05 PM
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Re: Red Rocks: Screwed if it rains? [In reply to]
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You can almost always climbing something at RR. The pull outs have tons of stuff and Calico B area also. In these areas you can set up TR's or lead on all bolts if the weather looks so-so. I'll bet the weather is fine and you'll be able to hit cat in the hat or something.
The guy that knows is vegastradguy, pm him and see what he says, heck see if he'll go climbing with you!

Good luck


vegastradguy


May 5, 2005, 12:34 PM
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Re: Red Rocks: Screwed if it rains? [In reply to]
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i talked to the OP- but in general, if it rains here- no climbing anywhere. thats rain, though. sprinkles...eh, someplace sunny the next day and you should be okay.

also remember that Jtree is 2.5hrs away if you drive fast....


tchamber


May 5, 2005, 1:15 PM
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Re: Red Rocks: Screwed if it rains? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
You can almost always climbing something at RR. The pull outs have tons of stuff and Calico B area also. In these areas you can set up TR's or lead on all bolts if the weather looks so-so. I'll bet the weather is fine and you'll be able to hit cat in the hat or something.
The guy that knows is vegastradguy, pm him and see what he says, heck see if he'll go climbing with you!

Good luck

grrrrr.... no no no no no no no... You don't climb anything at RR when it rains...

Yes, the bolts are probably secure in the rock, so your pro is good... But breaking holds is a major problem after a good rain. Shit, the rock is fragile enough when it's dry...

Don't be an asshole, stay off all routes that have been exposed to rain in the last 24 hours.


vegastradguy


May 5, 2005, 2:42 PM
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Re: Red Rocks: Screwed if it rains? [In reply to]
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actually, my biggest concern after a rain is not so much the hold breaking off as the internal strength of the rock.

after a good rain, the rock stays wet inside for a long time, making it weak and prone to breaking unexpectedly.

i would not be suprised in the least to see a bolt blow out after a strong rain, even if the rock was dry to the touch....


ckirkwood9


May 5, 2005, 2:58 PM
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Re: Red Rocks: Screwed if it rains? [In reply to]
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hey - if the weather effs you over, there's a freaking awesome gym on the main road that goes out of vegas to red rocks. 3 floors, great surface, stallagtites (sp?). don't know what it's called but we stopped in juts to take a look-see and was blown away.


barc


May 5, 2005, 3:31 PM
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A three floor gym? Sweet! Man you're set. In fact, rain or not, you should just go to the gym. I love Vegas.


jason_martin


May 8, 2005, 6:38 PM
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Re: Red Rocks: Screwed if it rains? [In reply to]
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You're far from screwed if it rains in Red Rock...it just depends on what you want to get out of your Red Rock trip.

First, it's important to know that there are three types of rain in Red Rock. One type is the heavy short cloudburst. Another is the drizzly cloudburst. And the third is the incessent multi-day rain storm.

This time of year, neither the first nor the second types of storms should have much of an effect on the rock or on your climbing trip. These fast and heavy rains just do not last long enough to percolate deep into the rock. Often the rain or even the sun drys out the rock shortly after the storm. After these types of cloudburst style storms you can climb pretty much anywhere without worrying too much about problems on the sandstone.

The type of rainfall that has a detrimental effect on the sandstone is the multi-day rain shower. We had a number of these in Red Rock this winter. Even after the storm breaks up and the sun comes out, it is possible to feel moisture in the rock for up to a week after the rainfall. These are the storms that you have to watch out for because it is possible for holds to break and for trad gear to extract itself from weak placements. The reality is that the rock is really not up to full strength until a couple of weeks after such a storm.

The question then becomes whether or not it is possible to climb during or after a multi-day rain storm. The answer is...it depends.

If you go to Red Rock to climb high end sport routes where a single broken hold will change the nature of the route, then you shouldn't climb. If you plan on climbing an obscure, little known, or relatively new route, then you shouldn't climb. And if it is your first time to Red Rock and you don't really know what is new or little known, then you probably shouldn't climb.

On the other hand, if the storm has passed and you want to climb a classic that has been on the books for many years like "Cat in the Hat" or "Tunnel Vision," you're not going to break anything and the routes will be relatively safe. But if you don't know the area, and you see a classic that has only been on the books for a couple years like "Johnny Vegas," you may end up with some broken holds.

You don't really have to worry about breaking holds on the Panty Wall or the Magic Bus. These beginner friendly walls still have some friable potential, but for the most part everything has been broken away.

So to answer your question...you're probably not screwed...probably.

Jason


flamer


May 8, 2005, 7:03 PM
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Mr. Martin's first post is a very good one!!

He hits the nail on the head.


josh


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