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dontfall


May 2, 2005, 5:06 PM
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....or a Climbing New York State thread, that could become a Sticky if it was used enough.

I was just wondering what those of you who use the MASS/PA and NOVA Climbers Threads think about starting a thread more specific to the Gunks and or/Daks?

When I realized I didn't know most of the people or places...I sort of forgot about the thread for the most part. Maybe I should have taken a better look at it to see if it is Gunks/Daks etc. related, but alas - work is tapping on my shoulder.....

.

Your wish is my command. Enjoy!!!


Partner happiegrrrl


May 2, 2005, 5:57 PM
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Well, how about that!?

Now I guess I had better hope people have interest in the thing... How about starting things off with what we climbed last day out, or are looking forward to next time?

I went up to the Gunks with 2 others on Sunday - forecast was for 20% rain up until I went to bed at 1am, and when I woke up 3 hours later, it had risen to 50%!!!! Still, we headed up, and stuck it out through the 8am drizzle, to be rewarded with sunshine only a short while later.

Yes, things were wet in places, but there were also dry lines. One of my partners led up the first pitch of Fingerlocks or Ceder Box, and then the other seconded the pitch. They both lowered off and then I got to do a mock lead on it, while the previous scond got to practice lead belaying(I have only had one lead climb so far; a 5.5 but not Gunks 5.5....).

It took me f--o--r--e--v--e--r-------

Not to place gear, but because I was afraid(yes, afraid) of committing to a move. But rather than do it knowing I had a better chance of coming off than the rain forcast for the day, I didn't go until I was ready. And, I made it through(Yeah!). Then my partner seconded and critiqued the placements for me. Luckily, nothing was welded into place and i didn't owe for any stuck gear....

So then we took our time and headed toward the Nears, looking for things to do on our way. Alas, being limited due to wet conditions, most of the things that were within all our abilities were taken, and we found ourselves camping at Disneyland while another party got on their way.

This was my third time on Disneyland, and I have to say, it is really quite the enjoyable ride. Each time I have climbed it though without weighting the rope or falling, but getting into that notch has taken *style points* off my little self-imposed scorecard every time..... Question: Are the Beached Whale Mantle and/or the Technial Knee Smear considered aid climbing? hahaha. Next time I will get that move with dignity, I promise myself that. And then I can start worrying about the day I get to lead the thing!


Partner wormly81


May 2, 2005, 6:28 PM
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I just thought this would be a good time to let everyone know how much I love climbing in NY...

Moving back to the gunks on the 21st (but I'll be stopping by sooner)

Jeff


grinspoon


May 2, 2005, 6:38 PM
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Has anybody been to Keene Valley yet this season?


jakedatc


May 2, 2005, 6:45 PM
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Congrats on your thread :)

Fingerlocks is such a good climb.. nice gear all the way up

all mantel styles are acceptable..but as you said some are more graceful than others :)


nedsurf


May 2, 2005, 9:49 PM
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Who can climb the gunks midweek. Thinking of the 9-11 this month. I might have another for climbing already but the more the merrier at the multi-use camp. I drive up from Washington DC if anyone needs a ride there from southern parts. I can alawys use a little help with gas these days, and road company is good to make the miles pass.


Partner taino


May 3, 2005, 7:45 AM
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Indeed it was a fun day; very glad we stuck it out, although it was a near thing. Good job lead-belaying - I felt very comfortable, and never once thought that you weren't attentive.

Also, good job on the mock-lead of Fingerlocks; don't worry about your taking a long time on the lead - it's good that you took your time, so that you could calm yourself down.

I must admit that you've certainly come a long way from the person who dropped me, that first time we climbed. :wink:

To keep in line with this thread...

This weekend is already full - class on Saturday, climbing with Adam and Niru on Sunday. Hope everyone gets outside, in some way.

T


mistertyler


May 3, 2005, 7:54 AM
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Can't wait to climb this weekend at the Gunks! I'm tempted to try for Friday too (to shake the rust off), but will be happy either way.

Weather looks good so far....


Partner taino


May 3, 2005, 8:11 AM
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DO NOT TEMPT ME.

I don't have enough vacation days to take off Friday, and still have three-day weekends all summer. *sob* I'm stuck in my windowless hell.

Adam - Rock & Snow, 8:30am, Saturday.

T


climbingbetty22


May 3, 2005, 8:32 AM
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Why do bus tickets to the Gunks have to be so expensive? Over a hundred dollars and an over night trip to get from Geneva, NY to New Platz....ridiculous!!! Its the bus, I thought it was supposed to be cheap!

grinspoon-- did you and backspace get up to the Daks while I was on break??


ikefromla


May 3, 2005, 8:50 AM
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Every weekend this summer... or fuck, any day. I can meet at Rock and Snow.


shakylegs


May 3, 2005, 8:51 AM
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In reply to:
Has anybody been to Keene Valley yet this season?

Was watching the tele on Friday (perhaps Thursday) when a weather alert came on warning about flooding in Keene. Apparently, all branches of Ausable were rising.
If the weather holds, I should be there this weekend.
And I can't believe no one thought of starting this thread beforehand.


architect


May 3, 2005, 9:04 AM
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Sunday was beautiful!
My partners thought we would only get some R&S shopping in but it turned out to be such a great day of climbing! Not a soul in sight when we got there (except for the crazy Russians! great guys!) warmed up on Apoplexy, Laurel went over and did the Mantels (dis and Dat) pulled on Gory thumb and wild horses (still no one), put the Strong partner on to 'On any Monday' so I could score some crucial beta! looking to get it on lead next few weeks ( saw one group) then finished up on 'Never Never land' man a good day of climbing would include only one of those climbs not all of them!

OK back to lurkin' on this here site

><`,>


barkeatervt


May 3, 2005, 11:21 AM
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Finally made it the Typhoon wall near hurricane in the dacks. What a great place to get away!! It dries out really quick as both cliffs face south. Great view of lock knob mnt, still some ice hanging from those cliffs!!


mistertyler


May 3, 2005, 12:09 PM
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DO NOT TEMPT ME.

I don't have enough vacation days to take off Friday, and still have three-day weekends all summer. *sob* I'm stuck in my windowless hell.

Adam - Rock & Snow, 8:30am, Saturday.

T

Excellent! See you then.


Partner cracklover


May 5, 2005, 12:04 PM
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Question: I'll be in upstate NY (Syracuse) this weekend, and I have Saturday free. I was planning to climb at the Gunks for the day, but it looks like it'll be raining all day, so I figured I'd check out one of the gyms. So my question:

What's the best gym near Syracuse? I've found links to Electric City and Albany Rock Gym. Any others I should look into?

Height of walls, creativity of routes, and lead-climbing is all nice, but then so is proximity to Syracuse. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Oh, and AIR also says it has cracks - are they any good?

Thanks!

GO


adamd


May 5, 2005, 12:57 PM
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The forecasts I'm seeing for the weekend look great...I'd head to Little Falls if I were you. I'd show you around but I'll be en route to the 'daks. There is some overhung bouldering that stays dry if it does rain, and the whole place dries quickly if it does rain.


jackflash


May 5, 2005, 2:09 PM
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I may be headed to Little Falls on Saturday--an hour outside of Syracuse and closer than any gym, although certainly not anything as quality as the Gunks. It looks like if it does rain, it won't be much, and Little Falls tends to dry quickly because the rock faces south and is dark black.


grinspoon


May 5, 2005, 2:36 PM
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Awww, screw you guys...stuff keeps coming up and I can't seem to get out lately. I'd like to get on that new sport route at the Dihedrals. It's like in the middle of the cliff, traverses left, then back up right. Anybody been on it yet?


capn_morgan


May 5, 2005, 2:43 PM
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howdy..I havent been posting much. Thought I would stop by and say hi. I will be in troy, ny for the summer and will be climbing every weekend. I have quite a few partners but if someone is looking for a partner let me know. I plan on climbing in daks mostly. If you live in the capital region and want some beta on local climbing ive got some cool spots up near Lake George that are worth checking out.


jackflash


May 5, 2005, 2:50 PM
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In reply to:
I'd like to get on that new sport route at the Dihedrals. It's like in the middle of the cliff, traverses left, then back up right. Anybody been on it yet?

How new? The day before the train derailed I saw a bolted line above the swampy area. I wasn't sure if it was new or if I had just always missed it while concentrating on not getting muddy. It did seem to wander a bit though.

I'm mad as hell about that train derailing. I can't find the huge pile of pennies I'd left on the track...


grinspoon


May 5, 2005, 3:56 PM
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Jackflash,
Yeah..that sounds like it. It's about time they got the wreck cleaned up, Moss Island blows.


barnes33


May 5, 2005, 5:04 PM
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hey cracklover,
the cracks at AIR are mediocre. some of them are ok, but they dont keep up on their routes there. actually the cracks are the only routes that you can follow. i dont recommend it.


climbingbetty22


May 5, 2005, 6:38 PM
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Awww, screw you guys...stuff keeps coming up and I can't seem to get out lately. I'd like to get on that new sport route at the Dihedrals. It's like in the middle of the cliff, traverses left, then back up right. Anybody been on it yet?

Greg-- you'd have more time for climbing if you'd stop spending so much time chasing tail!!!

Now that I'm back, I'll be happy to go climbing anytime you boys get it together. :wink:


all_that_is_rock


May 7, 2005, 11:42 AM
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hey taino, I think we met this weekend. I was climbing broken sling with ryan while you were on disneyland??????? just wondering if that was you. see you out there soon 8^)

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