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cosmokramer


Apr 24, 2005, 9:39 PM
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just had open shoulder surgery
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I'm 6 days out, procedure was anterior capsular shift to treat loose shoulder joint. This was a rock climbing re-injury, the initial injury was 2 years ago playing flag football.

I am sleeping soundly now but moving my arm does not happen yet. Every day though I am gaining afew inches of movement, a few degrees of rotation.

My surgeon expects 90-95% recovery after 6-12 mos. of rehab. I have been in constant pain with this injury since Sept '04, trying every possible non-surgical route with little success. Ihave traded the pain of injury for the pain of surgery, but it is good to finally be on the road to recovery.

I can't wait to climb again -- take care of those shoulders people! Questions and comments are welcome (I am bored sitting around waiting for the soreness to subside)

Mike in TX


theclimbinglab


Apr 24, 2005, 11:09 PM
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Re: just had open shoulder surgery [In reply to]
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Glad to hear it all went well :)

I had closed surgery to correct a bankart legion (sic) where the lebrum had detached on the majority of the capsule. i have returned to climbing and have managed to climb V10 again within 6 months :)

The recovery is the worst part. Try to learn as much as possible about your operation and the physio that is required (make sure that your physio has worked with people who have had the same surgery). Follow the exercises to the letter and invest in a shoulder ice pack ( one that compresses and ices).

Climbing is a really good exercise to help you recover as long as you don't over do it! 4 weeks after my op I managed to fall down some stairs and land on my elbow. The shoulder muscles stop working and the bone sits in the base of the capsule which causes it to make a creaking sound! Once I realised that I had not messed up the op (after lots of tears and stress) i knew that I could push myself further than I thought.

I wish you the best of luck

D


cosmokramer


Apr 25, 2005, 12:21 AM
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Re: just had open shoulder surgery [In reply to]
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In reply to:
i have returned to climbing and have managed to climb V10 again within 6 months :)

MAN that's reassuring!!!


aklak


Apr 25, 2005, 1:59 AM
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good to hear a postive outcome ... I too had my share of shoulder surgeries.......my original injury came from skiing.... docs missed the diagnosis... a year later of many sleepless nights back to being active but knowing something isn''t right ... I flip on my mountain bike and land on same shoulder..... now things are really " not right" ... the brillant ER doc looked at me and said nothing was broken ,,, I could of told him that but also knew I couldn't move it.... bad timing as I was moving in few weeks and begging nursing school.... all in a matter of 4 days.... were I try every thing from chiropractice to PT ... no better ... and since in nursing school whatever you are studying you some how get..... I decided I had oesteoarthritis.... went to a surgeon got in 5 months later.... and he said naw its just tendonitis.... told him it wasn't take a MRI ... so he did an arthrogram and said no arthitis but you have torn rotator cuff and bone spurs..... so off to surgery I go.... said it was a mess and retracted cuz of age of injury..... any got range of motion back and started to get strength ...... then I didn't ...... so told DR ... he said quit pushing so hard I said I wasn't .... back and forth ... gave me some bextra and said don't come back for 6 months.... went to Jtree on bextra .. ran out ... and couldn't move shoulder .... got a second opion .. found out my body rejected the screws he put in and I had retorn rotaor cuff and torn my bicep tendon.... lucky for me he was able to fix with out a bone graff.. aweek before graduation .. so went through rehab again .. a pro this time ... have full range of motion .. and strength coming back ... able to climb again starting to push my abilty range again ..... but it still feels differnt ..... all this to empathise your situation ... hang in there and listen to your body !!!!!! hope the first time does it for you ... happy recovery


cosmokramer


Apr 25, 2005, 12:08 PM
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Re: just had open shoulder surgery [In reply to]
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Well it's almost 7am and my vicodin's just about worn off...no need for an alarm clock when you've got throbbing like this to wake you up!

Aklak...your ordeal sounds similar to mine - 7 months trying "alternatives to surgery," when knowing full and well something is "really not right." I feel cheated! They should have fixed me months ago.

Oh well, I just scored Half Life 2 and Counterstrike for PC. That should keep me busy for awhile between stretching and exercising. I sure would rather be climbing!


aklak


Apr 25, 2005, 3:09 PM
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don't know if you bike but a friend of mine brought his trainer over and I put my bike on it and put in some obscure movies and rode like hell for a hours or so to burn some energy and keep sane...
I know what you mean about time and drugs ... one from experience and two I am a nurse!!!
hang in there you will be climbing before you know it... this is the begging of the end .. if you ever come up my way pm me and I'll take the "crip climbing!!lol


cognitive


May 11, 2005, 5:14 PM
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Wow guys,

I'm stoked to hear that you are all doing fine for the most part. I have dislocated both my shoulders and had surgery on both. The right shoulder was a skateboarding accident 10 yrs ago, after that the shoulder was super unstable and poped out all the time, SUCKED. Had an open Bankart sugery on it a year later (9 yrs ago). Wow the surgery was killer, I have never been in so much agony before or after. It was a day surgery with only Tylonal 3s to manage the pain. Now, however the shoulder is fine.

The left shoulder I poped 4 years ago when my dog went over a set or rappids and I jumped in after her. I went over a submerged log and came down onto a rock and the left poped out. My dog was fine, I was not. I waited 2 yrs to have the surgery because I was so scared of the pain (the unbaleivable PAIN). I finally sucked up my manhood and went for it.

It was awsome! The surgon is this younge cool guy who totally knows about sports injuries. He did the surgery orthoscopically and kept me in 2 days on a morphine pump, GREAT. {by the way I live in Canada}

Unfortunatly I did not take the rehab very seriously and year later I was rappeling off a stadium near my house at night, took a slip and dislocated it again, (stupid).

Had the second surgery 4 months later (1.5 years ago) and took the rehab very seriously this time. My shoulder is doing great. Slowed down on the exersizes at the 8th month mark, phisotherapist (surgon's Totally HOT wife) said it was fine to slow down now, but I need to make it a little bit stronger. I got back into the weights (light-medium) about 2.5 months ago. I'm doing chin ups, pull ups, push ups, internal and external rotation with weight and it's feeling great.

My advice to climbers, is this:

Use your climbing rope in a roll with one end out a bit, a Binner and a Pully. Hook it up to your closet coat hanger bar or a tree branch and use it like a weight set (WHEN THE PHISOTHERAPYST SAYS ITS OK). Give the therapyst the rope and ask "when can I start lifting this on a pully system?"
I did & do that now 3 times a day for my Internal & external rotation, Abduction front and side, and induction. Do it, no extra money and you don't need a gym. [if you don't have alot of rope get a little bit of rope a pully or binner and use a four liter jug with water in it.]

I will go swimming and gym climbing this weekend. I wanted to take it really slow once the physio was done and I have. Heres to a healthy shoulder all.

Have fun all!


crotch


May 11, 2005, 5:25 PM
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Re: just had open shoulder surgery [In reply to]
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I had the same surgery on both shoulders about 11 years ago, before I started climbing. I'd say that I was back at 90% after a year, and 95% after 2 years. The worst part was trying to wipe my ass with my left hand. Good luck and be patient with your recovery.


cognitive


May 12, 2005, 1:47 PM
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Cool, thanks Crotch,

It's nice to hear such a nice reply. I have full range of motion now. The only thing is that my left shoulder is a tinny bit weaker than my right during sertain exersizes.

Now I just have to loose the little post winter chubbiness so I'll look cut.

Ha ha ha

Laterz


sim


May 12, 2005, 3:19 PM
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You guys give me hope for getting back to climbing, but I don't like this surgery talk.

I have been bothered by my shoulder for 3-4 months now. My primary care referred me to PT and an orthopedic. I have been doing the PT for a couple months. The ultra sound, stretching, strengthening, manipulations have given me some range of motion back, but I still can't get back to any activities. I still have another month before I get into the shoulder guy at the orthopedic office. I tried to climb at the gym a couple weeks ago and it aggravated things, so I suspended my membership. Went to practice some white water at the local rips Saturday for a big memorial weekend river trip, which was a bad idea. Sucks!!

Someone mentioned the compression ice. I will have to check with my PT guy to see if he recommends that. Did that come from a medical supply shop?


cognitive


May 12, 2005, 10:45 PM
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Sim,

Not to worry, ice, PT, all that is great! Even if the Orthopedic surgeon says "ya, you need surgery", you will be ahead of the game because your shoulder will be stronger and better for it. In other words you will recover faster.

I won't kid you, surgery sucks... but so does not doing the things that keep you young. 1 short year later and you will be back on top of things (that is if you need surgery).

My buddy's dad back in Japan is a doctor and he treated a Sumo with a dislocated shoulder. He recommended pushups and other strength exorcizes. This Sumo does 300 push ups a night and his should is fine. But do you really want to do 300 pushups a night? ha ha ha

Most surgery now is done arthroscopically, so it is way less painful and you recover faster, and I don't know about the U.S. but here in Canada the Dr. will give you either Morphine or Codine to cut the pain. I was given a prescription for 40 Morphine sulfate tabs to take home. I didn't abuse it and it really helped for the first 2 weeks, so no worries. Further more you have pretty good odds of getting a totally hot physiotherapist after the surgery. I loved going to see mine. She was so hot!! And cool to talk to. However she was my surgeon’s wife, so the touching only went one way. ha ha ha.

Hope this helps.
Cog


ksolem


May 12, 2005, 11:27 PM
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I had three cuff tears - one full thickness and two partial - and a separated bicep tendon - fixed last October. The injury was traumatic (not degenerative) in nature which I was told is better. P/T 3x a week for 6 months. Now I have full range of motion and improving strength with light weight training. Just started doing some easy climbs and bouldering and it feels good. I'll be glad to have this one behind me.

Good luck and persevere.


kp9597


May 12, 2005, 11:34 PM
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1. Pain management is KEY...now and when you really start range of motion work
2. Listen to your PT...do what they tell you. If you want to do more ask.
3. Be patient. It will take 4-6 months.

Good luck - seen my share of good outcomes (the people who do the above and who are motivated) and the bad ones.


turbo


May 13, 2005, 12:06 AM
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I think I need to join in on this support group. I broke my left clavicle in early April.

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...n=Show&PhotoID=53899

Bad thing was that the fracture was very lateral, whereas most are in the middle of the clavicle. This has posed some problems with the ability of it to heal correctly. I find out next week if it has healed correctly or if I need surgery.

My rants: Couldn't put on my own socks for 4 weeks, couldn't drive for 3, have had to sleep on my back for the last 5, and every time I went to the bathroom at work it would take me 10 minutes awkward struggling to get my pants up and shirt tucked in. And I missed the best 2 months to climb in Arizona.

Painfully yours...Jason


Partner jammer


May 13, 2005, 12:20 AM
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Too bad threads can't receive a trophy. Not one negative post! Inspiring.


turbo


May 13, 2005, 12:34 AM
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General rule: A thread won't be able to go more than 2 pages without someone criticizing something. So someone go ahead and say it "Your clavicle is back clipped and your humerus placement is not equalized"


jstan


May 13, 2005, 1:41 AM
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Many decades ago shoulder problems were frequent, as they apparently are yet. Irrelevant as it probably is I will mention my experience. While doing arm hang exercises for a very short time I tried letting the shoulder go fully extended so the weight went onto the tendons. Within a week I noticed my left shoulder had begun to click while running. Thereafter I always kept my shoulder tensed when hanging from hand holds. I never developed any further shoulder problems though I was on my arms quite a bit. FWIW. I will apologize in advance in case this is a negative post. Such is definitely not my intent.
Best of luck in what I know is a very trying time
Cheers


rck_climber


May 31, 2005, 8:07 AM
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Mike,

Glad to hear you're healing up quickly. How about an update? What's your ROM like now? Are they letting you start PT yet? Do you know your ROM measurements?

I'm nearly 5 months post-op for an open posterior-inferior capsular shift (the opposite of a Bankart repair) and am frustrated with my rate of progress. I was immobilized in a gunslinger brace for 3 months and have been working hard to regain some ROM since I got out of it, but the going has been tough and slow.

My current ROM measurements are:
Flexion: 90 degrees
Abduction: 83 degrees
External Rotation: 50 degrees
Internal Rotation: 15 degrees
Extension: Back to normal

These measurements are after 3 months of PT, and I still can't raise my arm higher than shoulder level yet. I'm a little frustrated by the slow progress, but will continue to work hard at PT so I can get back to climbing soon. This has been the longest stretch that I've gone without climbing and now that it's warming up again, the itch to climb is getting worse each day.

How's your pain now? I'm still bothered by a nagging ache in the joint, and have no feeling in some places (away from the incision site), but the pain has began to subside some in the last month. Are you sleeping in a bed yet? I slept in a recliner for the first 3 months or so and then moved back to bed, but still have not had a full-night's sleep yet. Good luck and keep at it ~ we'll both be back to climbing again in no time :).

Keep the progress reports coming, Mike.

Mick


reno


May 31, 2005, 8:52 AM
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In reply to:
These measurements are after 3 months of PT, and I still can't raise my arm higher than shoulder level yet. I'm a little frustrated by the slow progress, but will continue to work hard at PT so I can get back to climbing soon.

Those ROM numbers aren't too bad for 3 months....

It depends a bit on what they were Pre-op, but overall, not bad a'tall.

The thing about joint repair surgery is this: Stability and ROM are inversely related. The more ROM, the less stability. More stability = less ROM.

So, for a joint that requires a LOT of ROM, you have to take a while and build it up slow, lest you reinjur it.

Sucks, I know, but there you have it.


grahamh


Jul 31, 2013, 1:30 PM
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I just dislocated my shoulder 3 weeks ago, bankart legion as well, while climbing, arm gastoning in horizontal position. I'm going in for surgery in one week. I've decided not to go PT, except I'm doing lots of strengthening exercises, as recomended by PT right up to the surgery to decreas muscular atrophy as much as possible. Sounds like things went well for you. Any more advise? How are things now?

Cheers,
Graham


rck_climber


Jul 31, 2013, 2:16 PM
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Re: [grahamh] just had open shoulder surgery [In reply to]
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Hey Graham,

Sorry to hear about the shoulder, that sucks man.

My advice is to hang in there and let the healing finish up before you get back on the rock, just don't rush it or you'll end up back on the table... trust me, I know ;-).

I've now had my right shoulder done 3 times, my right elbow once & just had my left ankle done 2 months ago. The shoulder is now as good as it's ever been since my first surgery back in Jan 2005. Through 6 years of PT, I've gotten my ROM back to about 160 degrees of flexion and about 110 degrees of abduction (that never came back well), but functionally, it's pretty good. It's been stable & strong since the last surgery about 3 years ago, and I've climbed many times since - so don't worry, your stone-pulling days aren't over ;-).

Like I said, don't rush it, but work hard within the boundaries your PT gives you post-op & you'll be almost as good as new in 6-9 months (for anterior repairs, in my experience).

Good luck and let us know how it shakes out.

Thanks,
Mick


steinmethod


Aug 20, 2013, 4:10 AM
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I figured I would jump in and offer some support. I had shoulder surgery 18 months ago for instability in the shoulder capsule. The surgeon thought I had a slap tear...

At the 4 month mark I started weight training with a conditioning coach and by the 6/7 month mark i was back in the climbing gym. At the 1 year mark I climbed my first 5.11 again and I can now say at the 18 month mark I have climbed my first 5.12. To this day I still receive physio / chiro treatments and will continue with all my strengthening exercises.

I'm not pain free and I'm nervous that there could still be damage that was never repaired. I have learned to manage and work around this pain for NOW.

Good luck on your recovery!


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