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superbum
May 17, 2005, 11:49 PM
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Registered: Sep 19, 2002
Posts: 819
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All of these boulder problems I recently posted were first accents done in the summer of 2004 by a friend and I. There are more, but are not posted because they are located on Private Property (PM me for a tour..) or I can't explain their locations accurately without milage amounts. I plan to expound this info during this summer (2005). I also have some routes, long and short, bolted and trad, in mind for F.A.s this summer and in the general future.
In short, I am working to develop this fantastic and adventurous area (and am only posting now because I am so excited for the upcomming summer I just had to vent somehow..). Personally, I would like to see ethics and principles held to the highest standard possible. Basically, I would be loathe to turn McCall into another Riggins. Don't get me wrong, Riggins is a fantastic place with brilliantly powerful climbing, but the styles used to put up routes there, while certainly understandable and effective on those walls, seems out of place on the lower-angle granite of McCall.
All that said, I would love any and all input and help in the development of McCall rock. I went to elementary school there and have worked there for the past four summers and feel a personal connection to the area. Contact me here or e-mail if you are down.
Lastly...I am keeping a written record of all of the climbing available near McCall. This began as more of a guide for myself and friends, but I have recently been toying with the idea of creating a guidebook. This is NOT for the $$$...in fact, if made, it would most likely be independantly published (read: xerox machine) and sold at Gravity Sports in McCall for a buck or two. ANY AND ALL INFO regarding climbs BIG OR SMALL would be appreciated...F.A. info, locations, gear, ratings, etc...
OK, thanks for reading all of this crap. I'll end by saying I'm not the best climber out there, or even the most motavated, but I do love it. I also love McCall and feel it's about time for me to put two and two together!
Vic Lawson (superbum)
Assistant Program Director
Paradise Point Camp McCall, ID (634-4522)
vicsahobo@hotmail.com
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elvislegs
Jun 2, 2005, 2:11 PM
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Registered: May 24, 2002
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vic. cool man, i still plan on helping you out when i can this summer. looking forward to it quite a bit actually.
late.
-sean
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superbum
Jun 10, 2007, 12:09 AM
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Registered: Sep 19, 2002
Posts: 819
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HA! Fun stuff reading your posts from years ago...Unfortunately I have a more steady life these days in Bishop, CA...not complainging too much as there is a LOT of climbing 'round these parts. I DO miss McCall tremendously however and WILL return! I might stop by for a day or two on my way to the Bugaboos during the last two weeks in July (2007), but obviously that is not enough time to tick off any classic FAs!
Since my first rant, I've put up a coupla more routes (now reflected in the RC.com database). All were crack climbs w/ no fixed gear except for a two bolt anchor w/ chains on one. They are all good quality and are worth checking out. I have MANY plans for "Old Smokey" but will have To wait for the time and place to realize those routes...
Again, PLEASE contact me w/ any questions regarding McCall Climbing OR with any info regarding first ascents, routes, anchor conditions, access issues, etc...
I'll be back!
Vic
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nobi
Aug 14, 2008, 8:12 PM
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Registered: May 26, 2008
Posts: 9
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Hey Vic,
I just moved to McCall. Other than slick rock I've found only those two sport routes on the north end of the lake. They're bolted poorly. I heard a rumor that some guys put up a bunch of other sport routes in the area (+100) but never got around to publishing a guide book. Have you heard this? There's so much potential here I'm dissapointed that there's not more developed. I guess there's more you can do with a trad rack but I haven't been able to invest in that yet.
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superbum
Aug 15, 2008, 7:00 PM
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Registered: Sep 19, 2002
Posts: 819
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Hey, congrats on moving to McCall! I love it there...but I love the climbing life a little more and right now that means spending lottsa time in my Bishop backyard, the Siarra Nevada...
Anyhoo, I have not heard of a high number of sport routes going up. All I know about is what I have posted in the routes database here on RC.com. I would suggest contacting elvislegs on this site and picking his brain. I think he's got some info on sport/mixed routes near or on the slick rock formation.
good luck! There's tonsa bouldering to be discovered as well while you are saving up yer $$$ for trad gear!
Vic
vicsahobo@hotmail.com
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apolobamba
Sep 2, 2008, 5:36 PM
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Registered: Jan 22, 2003
Posts: 307
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I think you are talking about the Pins and Needles area. It is not in McCall, but it is the only thing I can think of.
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