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blindslap
Jul 10, 2002, 4:58 AM
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It seems like crack climbng i.e trad, would be a lot less stressful on your fingers and tendons than sport climbing with all the little crimps. Is this true? it seems obviouse but i'm not quite sure.
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billcoe_
Jul 10, 2002, 5:09 AM
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Yes it is. Especially if your old an fat like I am.
And don't get me started on ripping all your tendons in the gym.
Regards:
Bill
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climbsomething
Jul 10, 2002, 5:12 AM
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not necessarily. I did my first proper crack climbing over the holiday weekend (at Indian Creek! woo-hoo!) after a year of almost all face/sport climbing, and let me tell you, by day 2, my finger joints were feeling funky and arthritic, almost! 'course, maybe it was just my bad technique but that crack climbing hurt me all over, I sure don't remember face climbing hurting like that when I first got into it!
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crackaddict
Jul 10, 2002, 5:14 AM
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Yes it is.
I suffer from tendon injuries and find that when I crack climb that it is much less strenuous on my tendons. Finger cracks can hurt though. But I don't feel the same pain after a day of cracks that I do when I am cranking hard crimps all day.
Crack climbing is a different kind of pain.
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wildtrail
Jul 10, 2002, 5:17 AM
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Billcoe has it.
Yes it is. Unless of course it is an evil layback!
Steve
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rock_diva
Jul 10, 2002, 8:42 PM
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Except for the skin being rubbed off the back of my hands... before I really understood hand jams... crack climbing for me has been free from injuries!
The only minor pains/injuries I've had have come from face climbing.
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climblouisiana
Jul 10, 2002, 9:03 PM
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Bomber finger locks hurt if your feet slip.
There are a few instances where crack climbing would hurt the fingers more because of the various sizes of cracks. I would suggest staying on offwidths for maximum pleasure.
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rocknpowda
Jul 10, 2002, 9:18 PM
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Crack climbing uses some different muscles and techniques than sport climbing and until you get them down you may be in for some pain and suffering. For that matter you may be in for some pain and suffering even after you learn the techniques. But oh boy is that painful foot jam bomber!!!
I think you are definitely less likely to blow a tendon crack climbing than sport climbing. And you are less likely to blow a tendon sport climbing on real rock than in a gym. My only friends who have blown fingers, have blown them in a gym.
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climbsomething
Jul 10, 2002, 9:19 PM
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Good point, Steve maybe my soreness from IC was due to that 60-foot finger crack layback I did. Crackaddict did it too, yes he did!! and yes, it is more just a "different" kind of pain... since it is a different kind of climbing!
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rockjock04
Jul 10, 2002, 9:26 PM
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this is not dogging either sport or trad. I'd take either one since top rope is all I have. But hey guess what. using all the money you saved by not buying a trad rack, you can spend on the doctor bill.
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pelliott
Jul 10, 2002, 9:42 PM
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Crack climbing may be better on the tendons, but I am extremely bad at it. I hope to get in to the gym tonight to practice. As it stands I just thrash on anything that is too small to get my whole arm or leg into.
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billcoe_
Jul 11, 2002, 5:12 AM
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These guys all pretty much are on the money. After I ripped my tendons in the gym, my fingers would squeel like little pigs just thinking of jumping back on those little crimpers. However, cracks were fine, even steep-assed real hard ones. Think I even followed a 5.12 corner during that time period (OK it was lots of stemming).
Additionally, with cracks, you get to stop and put in the pro when you want/need/deciede. And if it fails, you at least know who to blame!!
Keep your rings off and don't wedge any pinkys into tight little holes (hey hey, stop that snickering out there. ) Cracks seem easier to me, but your personal preferences will become clear real soon to you.
Bill
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apollodorus
Jul 11, 2002, 5:31 AM
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A good hand jam is totally painless and you can hang from it all day while your partner wails about being a "belaying machine". Those steep thin-finger cracks, with the "two fingers in, thumb down, then rotate the elbow in" technique will crank on your ligaments and tendons something fierce. And especially when those thin finger cracks have nothing to stand on and your toes won't fit into the crack.
If you can keep your weight on your feet on a face climb, crimping a wee bit to keep yourself from spilling over backwards into space is trivial.
So, it depends on the climb itself.
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duskerhu
Jul 11, 2002, 6:45 AM
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I'd say that sounds like a very good example appollo, but I don't think a good hand jam is totally painless. Maybe you just have MONSTER caluses on the backs of your hands...
pelliott, you're not that bad at those hand cracks... You've just got that HUMONGUS rack ticklin' yer sling... You keep goin' back to it though don't you.?.?.?
I'll tell you one thing... My fingers would much prefer a nice crack than a crimp ladder any day. 'Course, I'll try anything you strap me into and have fun. Its just that I LOVE good CRACK!
Live Free!
Play Hard!
Climb On!
duskerhu
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