Rock Climbing Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab: Online Climbing Safety Test Results

Forums: Climbing Information: The Lab:
Online Climbing Safety Test Results

RSS Feeds for The Lab

Premier Sponsor:

j_ung

May 26, 2005, 8:12 AM
Post #1 of 24 (6406 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18681

Online Climbing Safety Test Results Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

RC.com users often post online test results to prove or disprove points in safety-related threads. These tests are all over the Internet and usually a Google search will yield results, but not always. One may not know correct terminology necessary to turn up the hits or a study may be buried thanks to double meanings of words in its title.

Suggestion: Let's use this thread to post results of every worthwhile climbing safety test we come across. Hopefully, we'll end up with a clearing house of sourced and verified information right here on RC.com.

If you add a link, please use this format:

Title:
XXXXXXX

Description:
XXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

URL (hyperlinked)
http://www.XXXXXXXXX.com

For simplicity and ease of use, please keep your descriptions to one short sentence, unless it's absolutely necessary to expound. Those who need details can click on the link.

Also, to keep it tidy, Please do not discuss tests in this thread. Instead, start a new one.

Edit: Once (if) I get so many links in here that it's difficult to use, I'll move the info to a cross-referenced article in the Articles section.

j_ung

May 26, 2005, 8:12 AM
Post #2 of 24 (6406 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18681

Re: Online Climbing Safety Test Results [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Title:
What They Don't Teach You in Belay School

Description:
Rock & Ice test of the jumping dynamic belay and its effect on impact forces.

URL:
http://www.rockandice.com/...e/technique.132.html

j_ung

May 26, 2005, 8:16 AM
Post #3 of 24 (6406 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18681

Re: Online Climbing Safety Test Results [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Title:
Wet and Icy Ropes May be Dangerous!

Description:
Studies the effects of various degrees of wetness and iciness on dynamic climbing ropes.

URL:
http://www.singingrock.cz/...ID=535&nLanguageID=2

j_ung

May 26, 2005, 8:37 AM
Post #4 of 24 (6406 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18681

Re: Online Climbing Safety Test Results [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Title:
Pull Tests of the "Euro Death Knot"

Description:
Results of pull tests of flat-8 and EDK in various stages of undress and pre-tension.

URL:
http://www.xmission.com/...yer/testing/EDK.html

j_ung

May 26, 2005, 12:56 PM
Post #5 of 24 (6406 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18681

Re: Online Climbing Safety Test Results [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Title:
Dynamic Ropes

Description:
Mostly specific to Blue Water ropes, but scroll down for info on rope care and feeding. Many points address common misconceptions about ropes, such as twisting and kinking, chemical contact, inspecting for damage, cleaning and when to retire your rope.

URL:
http://spelean.com.au/...techdyn.html#dynamic

j_ung

May 26, 2005, 1:05 PM
Post #6 of 24 (6406 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18681

Re: Online Climbing Safety Test Results [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Title:
Knot Strength Ratings

Description:
A compliation of tests by various sources regarding strength retention of ropes with knots tied in them.

URL:
http://www.layhands.com/Knots/

j_ung

May 26, 2005, 1:06 PM
Post #7 of 24 (6406 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18681

Re: Online Climbing Safety Test Results [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Title:
Knot Strength Ratings

Description:
A compliation of tests by various sources regarding strength retention of ropes with knots tied in them.*

URL:
http://www.layhands.com/Knots/

*Results vary widely. Pick your favorite source.

tisar

May 27, 2005, 3:21 AM
Post #8 of 24 (6406 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 1, 2004
Posts: 2576

Re: Online Climbing Safety Test Results [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Title:
Strength Ratings of knotslings
orig. title: Was halten Knotenschlingen ?

Description:
An extensive test of knotslings used as pro (as substitute for chocks, mostly used in the Saxon Elbsandstein, Eastern Germany)
Thanks to j_ung who helped me with the translation!

URL:
http://www.joergbrutscher.homepage.t-online.de/knotene.htm

bigjonnyc

May 27, 2005, 6:24 AM
Post #9 of 24 (6406 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 17, 2004
Posts: 361

Re: Online Climbing Safety Test Results [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Title:
Performance of Nylon Climbing Ropes

Description:
A very in-depth test of the strength of nylon-6 climbing ropes after being submitted to abrasion, dirt, fatigue, water, and all combinations of these.

URL:
http://class.et.byu.edu/...ityreports/nylon.htm

bigjonnyc

May 27, 2005, 6:31 AM
Post #10 of 24 (6406 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 17, 2004
Posts: 361

Re: Online Climbing Safety Test Results [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Title:
Rope and Gear Testing

Description:
This goes along with the EDK site j_ung posted above. This is Tom Moyer's testing page with a few different test results.

URL:
http://www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/

hex

May 27, 2005, 6:47 AM
Post #11 of 24 (6406 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 7, 2003
Posts: 110

Re: Online Climbing Safety Test Results [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Title:
Abseil Knots

Description:
The article is about the knot used to join two ropes together. Testing done by Lyon Equipment.

URL:
http://www.needlesports.com/advice/abseilknots.htm

hex

May 27, 2005, 6:57 AM
Post #12 of 24 (6406 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 7, 2003
Posts: 110

Re: Online Climbing Safety Test Results [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Title:
Soft sandstone rock anchor testing at Swimburne crag

Description:
Article on the testing to destruction of glue-in bolt anchors in soft sandstone.

URL:
http://www.saclimb.co.za/softsandstone_report.html

URL2: summary
http://www.saclimb.co.za/softsandstone_summary.html

j_ung

May 27, 2005, 10:56 AM
Post #13 of 24 (6406 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18681

Re: Online Climbing Safety Test Results [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Title:
Suspension Trauma/Orthostatic Intolerance

Description:
An OSHA report on the dangers of suspention trauma due to hanging in a harness for an alarmingly short periods of time. The condition, which can be exacerbated by shock, dehydration or hypothermia, can be fatal in a matter of minutes.

URL:
http://www.osha.gov/...shib/shib032404.html

hex

May 31, 2005, 10:09 AM
Post #14 of 24 (6406 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 7, 2003
Posts: 110

Re: Online Climbing Safety Test Results [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Title:
Girth Hitches

Description:
Strength tests on using a girth hitch to join two slings. Testing on samples done by Black Diamond. Not really enough data gathered though.

URL:
http://www.climerware.com/knot.shtml

rgold

Jun 22, 2005, 12:30 PM
Post #15 of 24 (6406 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 3, 2002
Posts: 1739

Re: Online Climbing Safety Test Results [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Girth Hitching nylon to wire.

Tests of strength of nylon slings girth-hitched to the sizes of wire used in stoppers and cams.

http://groups.google.com/...ix1.panix.com&rnum=4

kurplunk

Jun 25, 2005, 11:13 AM
Post #16 of 24 (6406 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 19, 2005
Posts: 27

Re: Online Climbing Safety Test Results [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Title:
Safety Loss of Mountaineering Ropes
by Lowering Cycles in Toprope Climbing

Description:
A 1996 University of Stuttgart study claiming lowering cycles (top rope) quickly decreases the number of UIAA drops to failure.

http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/...es/safety/Vogel1.doc

tisar

Jul 26, 2005, 9:03 AM
Post #17 of 24 (6406 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 1, 2004
Posts: 2576

Re: Online Climbing Safety Test Results [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Title:
About Ageing of Climbing Ropes

Description:
Article by Pit Schubert, Safety Commission, published in UIAA Journal 3/2000 on strength loss of ropes over time

http://www.uiaa.ch/...cle.aspx?c=312&a=566

sixleggedinsect

Apr 10, 2006, 4:51 PM
Post #18 of 24 (6406 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 13, 2004
Posts: 385

Re: Online Climbing Safety Test Results [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Title:
Exploratory pull-testing of knots in spectra webbing

Description:
A statistically unreliable, but thought-provoking look at how well knots hold in 'slippery' non-nylon webbing, with an emphasis on their usefulness as rappel/bail anchors.

URL:

http://electricant.net/beta/spectra/spectra_knots.htm

http://electricant.net/...ra/spectra_knots.htm

jimdavis

Apr 10, 2006, 8:36 PM
Post #19 of 24 (6406 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 1, 2003
Posts: 1935

Re: Online Climbing Safety Test Results [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Title:
Leg Failure Test of Equalette

Description:
Drop test results conducted by Jim Ewing of Sterling Rope as posted by John Long. Tests show "shock load" resulting from extension of 1 leg of a 2 leg anchor failing in a "sliding x" configuration.

url:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...hp?p=1317687#1317687

sixleggedinsect

Apr 10, 2006, 9:13 PM
Post #20 of 24 (6406 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 13, 2004
Posts: 385

Re: Online Climbing Safety Test Results [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

title:
Fish Products' Tech Weenie Pages

description:
A big compilation of technical information compiled by Russ Walling regarding knots, testing results, material strengths, etc. Much comes from old rec.climbing posting. A lot of good stuff here.

url:

http://www.fishproducts.com/tech/techweenie.html

http://www.fishproducts.com/tech/techweenie.html

basilisk

Apr 13, 2006, 8:31 PM
Post #21 of 24 (6406 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 1, 2005
Posts: 636

Re: Online Climbing Safety Test Results [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

i have no results, but i'd like to point out this would be an excellent section to include in the revamped RC.com

moose_droppings

Apr 13, 2006, 9:21 PM
Post #22 of 24 (6406 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3299

Re: Online Climbing Safety Test Results [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Title: rope and gear testing

Description: Tests the strength of various gear by pull testing

http://www.xmission.com/...ull_tests_11_98.html

forkliftdaddy

Apr 20, 2006, 10:57 AM
Post #23 of 24 (6406 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 3, 2003
Posts: 408

Old Biners and Draws [In reply to] Report this Post Average: (0 ratings)	Can't Post

Tests of old biners and old fixed draws:

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/scene/beta/qc_kp.php

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/scene/beta/qc_kp.php