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danegerous
Jun 4, 2005, 9:31 PM
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well, i thought i was a solid 5.10 climber, then i got my butt kicked by a VO...it was a top roped 5.9+ with the first 15 feet rigged to boulder...it had a wicked overhang and...well...it kicked my butt.
do you guys consider yourselves climbers based on your best climb, or your average or even your consistant climbs. like, if you can climb any 5.9, but you can climb some 5.10a, but your best was a 5.10d, which are you?
thanks
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pumpout2004
Jun 4, 2005, 9:44 PM
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i wouldn't worry about it. climb for fun not for numbers.
PS. Be optomistic tell people you climb 10d :wink:
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danegerous
Jun 4, 2005, 10:00 PM
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i really try hard not to climb for numbers, but sometimes people throw it around me and try to "challenge" me, but they really just piss me off. i climbed on that i found out was a 5.10c after i climbed it and i was stoked, then i bounced a 5.9 and it killed my enthusiasm...so, im trying not to look. but it's still nice to have a progress report, ya know.
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georgiaboy
Jun 4, 2005, 10:03 PM
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Look dont feel to bad. after reading a lot of articles I have come to realize that just cause you have climbed a higher grade than the one you cant is a very common occurrence. a lot of professional climbers have stated that they are consistently 5.13c climbers but had the most trouble on a 5.11. They are just rated differently by different people so dont get to down.
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danegerous
Jun 4, 2005, 10:15 PM
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In reply to: Look dont feel to bad. after reading a lot of articles I have come to realize that just cause you have climbed a higher grade than the one you cant is a very common occurrence. a lot of professional climbers have stated that they are consistently 5.13c climbers but had the most trouble on a 5.11. They are just rated differently by different people so dont get to down.
good answer, i think that will be the info to keep me encouraged. thanks a lot.
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ikefromla
Jun 4, 2005, 11:43 PM
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i've climbed 13c and projected 14a.. therefore i'm a solid 14c climber.
i've climbed v10, therefore i'm a solid V13 boulderer.
what? wrong answer?
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sick_climba
Jun 5, 2005, 12:34 AM
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I am a solid 10b/c by that I mean you give mean a 10 b and lower and I will be able to climb it with out falling....a 10c and i will be ablke to climb it most of the time. but don't worry if you are a solid 10 then a v0 is a 5.10d so its no biggy!
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bler
Jun 5, 2005, 2:43 AM
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I go by the lowest grade that I have difficulty with still
".10a can mean alot of things, even in the sport world...don't assume anything about a grade.
becoming a solid climber at the grade means putting a huge amount of mileage at that grade on all different types of rock and many different routes. this goes for both sport and trad."
I've seen solid V6 climbers get shut down by a V1, grades are subjective..
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sick_climba
Jun 5, 2005, 4:35 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: I am a solid 10b/c by that I mean you give mean a 10 b and lower and I will be able to climb it with out falling....a 10c and i will be ablke to climb it most of the time. but don't worry if you are a solid 10 then a v0 is a 5.10d so its no biggy! I like your reasoning, but I guarantee that if we used that, most people are 5.9 climbers or less. I've onsighted 12a trad and had 5.9+ cracks make me want to quit forever. For example, come to Boulder, climb "the by gulley" and then make that 10b and lower statement. I onsight (or redpoint if I've done them before) most routes easier than 11d about 70% of the time. That makes me a 5.13d trad climber. |
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the_dude
Jun 5, 2005, 5:20 AM
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I base it off of what you are willing to hop on with gear. Say you consistantly redpoint 5.12 sport and you onsight 5.10 gear regularly. You look up at an 11a gear pitch and hand the rack over to your partner, your a 5.10 climber.
cheers
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mattmax45
Jun 6, 2005, 5:21 AM
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It's like G-Boy said try being a 13+ climber and get stumped on a down day by an 11, it fricken sucks, he's also made a good point, some people just do better at different styles or grades, Like myself Iv'e climbed enough at rifle to know I suck at 80 foot 5.11 a jug routes, but that doesn't mean I can't go higher, It means with my genetics I can climb on smaller holds with more dynamic moves, then If you" Danegerous " came along you probably smoke my ass up that jug route having way more endurance, so are you badass or are our genetics that different for strengths and power/endurance. Like they say, "He who has the most fun climbing, Is the best", or something like that.
Later bro, don't fell bad, phuk number throwers, I know your a great climber, as are we all. :wink:
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oklahoma_climber
Jun 6, 2005, 6:05 AM
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this thread is stupid.
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wearyourtruth
Jun 6, 2005, 6:06 AM
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i generally refer to myself in terms of what i look for at a crag. basically what do i want to get on? if i have a guidebook what am i looking at and if i'm talking to a local climber what do i want them to steer me towards?
i can flash almost any 10 i come across, i can work most 11s and send with a few tries and i can project 12s (yet to send one)... i call myself an 11 climber. there's a big difference between 11a and 11d, so i figure a general "11" doesn't nail me down too much.
but that's just me.
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mattmax45
Jun 6, 2005, 6:27 AM
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In reply to: this thread is stupid.
???Bad day??? :(
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collegekid
Jun 6, 2005, 7:14 AM
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you climb what you could on-sight consistently. That would make me a V0 climber. :)
T1
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danegerous
Jun 6, 2005, 12:48 PM
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the problem for me stems from my high school days when i was skating. i wasnt very good and in that area, you were as good as what you can do. so, i was very self-conscious about my skating.
im trying to loosen up now that im climbing, since the community is so mu ch "user-friendly". i have to commend you guys, because it's answers like these and this type of encouragement that keeps me honest with myself about my abilities and my goals. if i start thinking im better or worse than i am, my goals will become harder and harder to achieve. so, i guess the bottom line is, i may be a VO climber, but that's fine...i have a great time climbing VOs.
hopefully the next time a relative noob has trouble i can help him with it.
*sigh of relieve*
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hangerlessbolt
Jun 6, 2005, 1:54 PM
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Something else to consider…one of the many things that make ratings so subjective is not only the rater’s climbing ability compared to yours, but also your climbing ability for a certain “type” of climb.
A 5.10a crack is not the same as a 5.10a slab or a 5.10a overhung, juggy face.
You may find that your face climbing skills far exceed your crack or slab climbing ability. (Often holds true for gym climbers transferring to the outdoors)
I view ratings as beta that tells me just how much of a shot I have at going home with all my gear.
Another consideration is that some routes are “easier” to read than others.
You can have a .10a that is very straightforward…and you can have another .10a that has “hidden” holds all over the place. The latter is likely to feel a lot more difficult until you wire the sequence.
Some routes (regardless of the grade) just feel harder/ easier than others for a variety of reasons…
In my case…it’s usually gravity) ;)
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boulderkid17
Jun 7, 2005, 12:11 AM
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well i don't think it matters but in the senerio above the person would be a 5.9 climber in my opinion
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caughtinside
Jun 7, 2005, 12:19 AM
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You are not alone. I too, have been owned by V0.
It was thanksgiving night, 2004. I was sitting around our campfire in JTree, with my good friends. We were stuffed to the gills, and getting tipsy.
There was a nice looking boulder about 10 feet from our firepit in Ryan Campground. A big horizontal rail with feet waaaaay undercut. Then across a pod under a roof, and up on crystally sharp slopers.
It didn't look that bad. So first we tried it in our tennis shoes. Smackdown! So, got the climbing shoes out of the car. Smackdown! This thing was physical, and my inebriation, while making me immune to the fact that I was rapidly losing precious skin off my fingertips, was making focus difficult.
Well, I finally sent, after totally working myself. Probably 8 or more tries? Sheesh! I was convinced the thing was at least v2.
The next morning I dug out the bouldering guide I had borrowed and looked for the problem. There it was:
Camp Whore, V0-
It was the "-" that really broke my spirit. Hah!
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fivesix
Jun 9, 2005, 3:30 AM
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i say give it two weeks.
in two weeks , you'll be putting that V0 down like a mutt at the SPCA! (sorry very graphic picture!) give it time , give yourself a rest, practice alittle more and BAM! just like that , that V0 wont know what hit it!
thats generally what i do when i get to a sticky problem.
whats way cool for me is i never started climbing numbers. my friends and i had a bouldering wall at the camp that we used to work at. so by the time i actually got to a gym that had numbers( cause i was mainly a top roper out side) i was never owned by any V0 of any sort! cool for me!
climb it, go back to it, own it!
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hortisb
Jun 9, 2005, 3:53 AM
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I don't climb for numbers, obviously they're a great way to gage your own personal progress; but you don't need to label yourself with a number.
But that's just my opinion...
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bler
Jun 9, 2005, 4:19 AM
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there are MANY other aspects to climbing besides the 'numbers game' and climbing super hard..
that is the greatest thing about climbing, there are so many different aspects to it, climb for fun !
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sbaclimber
Jun 9, 2005, 4:21 AM
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If someone asks me what I 'normally' climb, I generally ask 'for what kind of climbing' and then give a rough grade of what I am flashing >%80 of the time.
e.g. 5.9=trad, 5.10b/c=sport, V2=boulder
Mind you, I could say 5.14, and it wouldn't make a tiddlywink of difference, unless they are trying to guage if I will be able to follow them up a particular route. And even then, that's a different game anyway......
Best advice, dont worry about it, and if someone asks, just make something up :P
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climbsomething
Jun 9, 2005, 4:30 AM
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In reply to: the problem for me stems from my high school days when i was skating. i wasnt very good and in that area, you were as good as what you can do.
I can't "do" 5.12, so guess what I'm not as good at? A 5.12 climber. And guess what I'm not, period? A 5.12 climber.
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