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corockdog


Jun 6, 2005, 2:52 PM
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Rumney information  (North_America: United_States: New_Hampshire: Grafton_County: Rumney)
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My boyfriend and I will be in New Hampshire June 18 through July 1 and want to spend a day climbing at Rumney. We don't want to bring all our gear on the plane and are wondering what's the minimum gear we should pack for a fun, safe day of climbing. Will a 50m rope be sufficient or should we pack the 60m? Any tips about the area -- what it's like, weather, what not to miss, etc. -- would be appreciated as well.

We live in Southwest Colorado and are looking forward to our first New England climbing experience.

Thanks for the info!


nsintros


Jun 6, 2005, 3:24 PM
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Re: Rumney information [In reply to]
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it depends a lot on what your level of climbing is. there is fun to be had with a 50m for sure. i know there are quite a few routes that can be done with that. i can't think of a specific route that needs a 60 but I'm sure there are some. 10-12 draws max most routes needing around 8 i would say. there are a few trad routes around but to pack light bring the draws and leave the cams at home there are plenty of sport routes to keep you busy for way more than a day. you should also be aware that the main cliff may be closed for nesting. i discovered this on thursday when i was up there. from what i understand it will be closed for a while too. so don't plan on climbing the main cliff. but there are plenty of other sections still opened. as far as the weather goes, this is new england it could be anything. that time of year mostly hot and humid, black flies and mosquitoes.


fancypants


Jun 8, 2005, 1:21 PM
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As a fellow westerner I would advise to bring a lot of chalk. Humidity is bad now and will only get worse. Depending on how well you climb, you can climb in the rain from 12a and up, but everything dries up quickly. What I have found is that if the rock is wet or your hand is sweaty from the humidity the hold is going to feel the same. I love it out here and would climb here year round if Utah was not so far away.


bensnyder


Jun 8, 2005, 1:34 PM
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I went to rumney a couple years ago. Rumney seemed to have mountain weather, but not as severe as that in colorado. As for rope legnth - i personally don't remember any routes that got much higher than 80 feet, but my memory might be a little foggy. I'd be safe and bring the 60m.

Have fun at Rumney - it's a sweeet crag

Ben


landgolier


Jun 8, 2005, 1:42 PM
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Kinda does depend on what grades you want to climb, but you could pretty well show up at rumney with a 30m short rope and 5 draws and still figure out a way to make a day out of it, though you might do some walking. Actually, this would probably be the best way to experience the place, as you'd get to see the tremendous variation in feature type and rock texture at the different parts of the cliffs there. But anyway, a 50m and 8-10 draws would get you up 85% of the stuff there.


Partner yannbuse


Jun 8, 2005, 1:46 PM
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Re: Rumney information [In reply to]
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The only couple climbs i can think of right now that may need a 60m rope is Dolt and Jolt (in the hitherlands crag??) and they are both really good climbs. But otherwise, bring a bathing suit! (or climb in one) As mentioned it gets hot and humid, thankfully rumney has a really beautiful river at the bottom of the rocks that you can jump in.
The weather around rumney isn't too volatile and ive never had it through me a curve ball. But since you are in the area, you may want to check out the canon cliffs, 7 pitch granite, mmmmm. (about 30min. on 93 north). If you are interested you also may want to check out the kangamangus highway from canon that takes you to North Conway. In north conway there is climbing, hiking, the presidential range and mt. washington. In these areas, the weather can be volatile and change REALLY quickly.


joshy8200


Jun 8, 2005, 1:59 PM
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Temps will be a little bit warm at Rumney since it's a pretty low elevation crag...but when I went up there in late July the mid 80 degree temperatures and 60 degree nights were a welcome treat from summer climbing in NC (Well at least it was then because I didn't know about climbing at the prime summer spots of NC like Ship Rock and Hawksbill).

Bugs weren't much of an issue in late July. They may be more of a problem for you though.

Gear wise for Rumney all we had was a 50m, 40m, and 12 draws. Take your shoes and chalk bag and you'll be good to go.


blueeyedclimber


Jun 8, 2005, 2:20 PM
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I wont repeat what gear you need, (although I would bring the 60), but as far as what not to miss.... Plymouth House of Pizza. Best Buffalo Chicken Pizza I have ever had.

I am sure if you tell us what grade climbs you are looking for, myself or someone else could reccomend a few don't miss climbs. Have fun and maybe I'll see you up there.

Josh


Partner jammer


Jun 8, 2005, 3:12 PM
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You can look through this information about routes: http://rockclimbing.com/routes/listArea.php?AreaID=576
As for the weather, if you don't like what is happening at the moment, wait a hour and it'll change (unless there is a repete of the past month ... rain!!).

There are many climbs at Rumney that you can injoy, no matter what you climb at. The river is a welcome site, as said, and by the looks of the dates, you should hit Laconia for Bike Week ... just down the road from Rumney!

Enjoy ... and if you'd like any local climbers to join you ... give a holler!

Alan


corockdog


Jun 9, 2005, 7:18 AM
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Thanks to everyone for the input. It really helps having an idea from the locals of what to expect in a new area. I'll post a message when we get to NH and know exactly what day we'll be there. Maybe we can get a personal tour (but I don't want to cramp anyone's style).

Again, thanks very much.

~Kelly


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