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duckwalk
Jun 9, 2005, 4:24 PM
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Registered: Sep 15, 2003
Posts: 86
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I'm wondering how good the longer routes are in the city. While probably not the areas forte, I was planning on using some or these as a rest day alternative. Any good route suggesstions and / or beta for them? ( anything up to 5.9+ and as many pitches as can be had )
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kimmyt
Jun 9, 2005, 4:43 PM
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Registered: Sep 10, 2003
Posts: 4546
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Jackson's Thumb/Steinfell's Dome. On Jackson's Thumb (which is the smaller rock protrusion that lies in the shadow of the imposing Steinfell's dome) there is a 4 pitch 5.7 slab route (Theatre of Shadows), bolted. Very easy to find, look for a bolt ladder. Sinocranium (5.8) is around the side of Steinfell's dome....south side I think, not sure exactly. It is 6 pitches, bolted. Only one of those is a 5.8, the 5th I believe. It can be hard to find the first bolt, I actually have a picture of it in my user profile that will show the roof the route starts under. That is slab as well. Hmm...your other best bet is to head to Castle Rocks. There's a really fun 5.7 there called Big Time that is 5 pitches or so, all really well-bolted. Bring all your draws. That one is on the main face of Castle Rock. There are trail signs that will lead you toa ll the routes there. Looking at the rock, to the left of Big Time is another 5.7(this one is a -) that has two pitches that joins Big Time at a set of anchors. On the arete there is a long 5.9/10 that is supposedly very exposed, called Red Rib. It is a full rope length (I didn't do it, but I read about it in the guidebook). Other than that, Castle Rocks has a boat load of moderates sports, 1-3 pitches. It's really sunny there though, so bring the sunscreen. Oh, and if you're into taking a nice hike in go to Stripe Rock and climb Cruel Shoes (5.7) 4 pitches or so of bolted slab. K.
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kimmyt
Jun 9, 2005, 4:44 PM
Post #3 of 4
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Registered: Sep 10, 2003
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By the way, Big Time was definitely a quality route. It was just fun fun fun easy climbing.
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landonflo
Jun 9, 2005, 4:53 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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If you do decide to do Sinocranium just know most of it is around 5.2 and tons of bolts. The 5.8 pitch isn't bad and the view from the top is nice but the rest of the climb isn't so good. just my opinion though
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