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mrtristan
Jun 12, 2005, 5:17 AM
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So my partner and I have a bunch of big cams and big bros and we never seem to use them. What are some good offwidths in Little Cottonwood? Preferably easier than 5.10.
Also, I'm looking for some chimney climbs. Both squeeze and the kind where you can do the back-on-one-side and feet-on-other-side deal (preferred kind). Thanks!
-Tristan
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angry
Jun 12, 2005, 5:28 AM
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Some 5.9 not too far (to the right) of the coffin. Sorry I can't help more, I was on an anti guidebook kick when I climbed there.
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philfell
Jun 12, 2005, 5:33 AM
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Try the Lowe Blow, on the Egg. Creasent Crack has a short wide section. Callitwhatyouplease also has an offwidth section where you can place a 4.5 camalot if you want. There is some wide stuff in the five fingers area, but I haven't done them yet so I can't give any beta on them.
The Ellesworth/Mcquarie (sp?) in Bells offers some wide stuff.
Have fun in your wide adventures, wear pants.
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bsmoot
Jun 12, 2005, 1:40 PM
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In reply to: Some 5.9 not too far (to the right) of the coffin.
You may be thinking of Valentine Crack, which does have a good chimney on it...(5.8) Here are a few more:
- The Burner...Hard 5.10 offwidth.
- The 5 finger climbs are all good but short.
- Certain Death 5.8
- Robbins Crack 5.10 on the Thumb.
- Fat Woman's Misery 5.8
- Needles Eye...short, very tight squeeze.
- Cavity Chimney...on Hanging slab... short 5.9
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brianinslc
Jun 13, 2005, 9:27 PM
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In reply to: So my partner and I have a bunch of big cams and big bros and we never seem to use them. What are some good offwidths in Little Cottonwood? Preferably easier than 5.10. Also, I'm looking for some chimney climbs. Both squeeze and the kind where you can do the back-on-one-side and feet-on-other-side deal (preferred kind). Thanks!
Callitwhatyouplease has a nice, friendly but short OW section.
Hatchet Crack. Chicken Chickenhead. Fat Man's Misery. Great Chockstone. Crescent Crack. Schoolroom Chimney variation (just left of Knobs to Gumbyland, right of Schoolroom Roof). Lowe Blow. Ream Crack on the Sail. Bong Bong Firecracker, too (great climbs up there, Wilson-Love too). Split Pants?
Of course, most of the routes don't really require extra big or specialized gear.
-Brian in SLC
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musicman
Jun 13, 2005, 10:10 PM
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tristan, you acually WANT to climb offwidths? who goes looking for them?! haha, j/k, the only time i've done them are i moab and it's kinda been a between the ground and top thing so we had to. i know there is some crazy hard horizontal roof offwidth (don't remember the name) but its like 5.13, so in a few years (maybe decades) we could go for it, it was in a recent Climbing and has some funknasty moves in it.
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mrtristan
Jun 14, 2005, 4:07 PM
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In reply to: i know there is some crazy hard horizontal roof offwidth (don't remember the name) but its like 5.13, so in a few years (maybe decades) we could go for it, it was in a recent Climbing and has some funknasty moves in it.
Maybe thinking of Trench Warfare? It's some sick 6" horizontal crack. Wicked. 5.12d, I think. It wasn't done recently though, so I dunno if it'd be in Climbing. But yeah. we WILL climb that thing. Some day...
-Tristan
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granitegod
Jun 25, 2005, 10:20 PM
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Yes, Trench Warfare, 12d, is THE wicked offwidth in LCC. It's under a huge boulder in Green A, gully, I believe...but I've never laid eyes on it....I would have to guess its a hike up past Wheels on Fire.
Did anyone say Bongeater? 10d, and only a short off width section, and not really that wide....but you can hike up and TR it easily to practice.....
Ditto on the routes on the Sail....Bong Bong is really fun 5.7 and the 5.8 up there is fun too. Don't need anything more than a #4 though....
I've always wanted to give Burner Buttress a go. Have some Bros and a #5 too....let me know if you wanna join forces!
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brianinslc
Jun 27, 2005, 4:53 PM
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In reply to: Yes, Trench Warfare, 12d, is THE wicked offwidth in LCC. It's under a huge boulder in Green A, gully, I believe...but I've never laid eyes on it....I would have to guess its a hike up past Wheels on Fire.
Nope. Opposite side of the canyon. Look at the cut out on Hanging Slab, below the ol' Steinfell Route. Its on (under) that big boulder. Left of Super Slab, visible from the electronic sign at the mouth of the canyon. Neat area. Some old quarry stuff in there from the 1800's.
-Brian in SLC
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dripdry
May 6, 2006, 4:11 PM
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Call me crazy, but Trench Warfare is on my list for next summer. Anybody know (roughly) all the pro this one uses?
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jaybro
May 6, 2006, 5:23 PM
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4,4.5's, for the first part
I piece from 3 friend to 4 cam for after the rest
2 big green cams or, better, 2 #6 friend or one of each
Do your sittups
.12 b/c
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jaybro
May 8, 2006, 6:04 PM
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Yup, get that far and you're beyond where pro will help.
Looks chilly in that photo.
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ddriver
May 8, 2006, 6:20 PM
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S-Crack on the Thumb above Lunch Ledge has the longest continuous offwidth and chimney I can think of, though very little protection.
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brianinslc
May 8, 2006, 6:29 PM
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In reply to: Looks chilly in that photo.
T'was. There's an ice climb gully to the right of the hanging slab area which we'd done earlier that day. Nice low angle romp for 300 feet or so.
Ddriver, what up? We should get out...
-Brian in SLC
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pastprime
May 8, 2006, 7:50 PM
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If you just want to play around, there is some short, un named, un rated stuff in the offwidth/chimney category in the area around and above Bong Eater. Just hike up to Bong Eater and look around to the left, past Prowser and uphill; and look on the other outcrops above on either side.
I'll bet there is enough in that area to keep you busy for an afternoon, at least.
There are a number of short climbs of all types in that area that are worthy of guidebook status, if anyone took the time to do and report them.
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ddriver
May 9, 2006, 2:40 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Looks chilly in that photo. T'was. There's an ice climb gully to the right of the hanging slab area which we'd done earlier that day. Nice low angle romp for 300 feet or so. Ddriver, what up? We should get out... -Brian in SLC
I think we're starting our Wednesday evening tours tomorrow. PM if you wanna come out.
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sevrdhed
May 9, 2006, 3:33 PM
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There's the offwidth right behind secret garden too, on the way to the beer can cave.
But it's V0... pro won't do you much good there. :D
Steve
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brianinslc
May 31, 2006, 10:47 PM
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In reply to: There's the offwidth right behind secret garden too, on the way to the beer can cave.
Speaking of bouldering, there's also the Gate Chimney, at the Gate boulders.
Fun one.
-Brian in SLC
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