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New Rock Canyon Routes
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criscokid


Jun 15, 2005, 1:19 AM
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New Rock Canyon Routes  (North_America: United_States: Utah: Salt_Lake_-_Utah_Counties: Rock_Canyon)
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Tristen and I (crisco) have bolted a few new lines and we invite you all to go check them out. If anyone wants the 411 drop me a line and I'll tell you the scoop. We would really like to know if you guys like them. (more routes on the way as well)


texscala


Jun 20, 2005, 2:23 PM
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My partner and I are going up there tomarrow. Beside the 5.8 are there any other new routes in the area? We want to do a longer 10 or 11 after but have kind of worn out the hidden, we might try and finish off cool world bu last year the rock kept breaking on me.


criscokid


Jun 21, 2005, 10:44 PM
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Keep an eye on the Bug Barn Wall...We just bolted a new one there that is the extension of Cambrian Grey. Really good route and only easy 5.9. WE have several other projects in the works that will be done in the next few weeks. For anyone who goes up to Mr. Freeze...sorry about the lack of a landing and the dirt on the first few feet...it's on my "to do" list.


hortisb


Jun 21, 2005, 11:57 PM
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Let me know if you guys are going up there, I would like to tag along, though my work schedule makes that difficult.


texscala


Jun 22, 2005, 7:44 AM
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Climb is fun, not for begginers though. Rookies could get hurt up there.


hortisb


Jun 22, 2005, 9:27 AM
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Was that that directed towards me?


esallen


Jun 22, 2005, 11:53 AM
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Christian,

I can't wait to do Mr. Freeze; hopefully we can bolt that 2nd route above Cambrian Grey this weekend if City of Rocks doesn't work out. - I'll give you a call tonight

Eric


mrtristan


Jun 22, 2005, 12:30 PM
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Bah. I want to be back in Utah. I miss climbing. I even miss cleaning and bolting. Sad stuff...

Mr. Freeze is good, but I think Looking for a Legacy is a fair amount better. Better rock, better moves, steeper, and more fun.

-Tristan


texscala


Jun 22, 2005, 1:28 PM
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my comment was not directed at you dude. I have no idea what you climb or how long you have been climbing. My concern is that someone who can only lead 5.8 will get excited and try the route. It is fun but its loose, the aproach can present serious problems, the belay is wierd and getting back down you can get hurt if you are not careful, we even had a big horn sheep with her baby up there yesterday. My comment was not to you. Sorry if you took any offense, I assure you none was intended.


hortisb


Jun 25, 2005, 2:24 PM
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I wasn't upset, I just didn't understand what you meant by that.

Have you had the chance to try those routes? How were they?


tenesmus


Jun 25, 2005, 3:31 PM
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In reply to:
my comment was not directed at you dude. I have no idea what you climb or how long you have been climbing. My concern is that someone who can only lead 5.8 will get excited and try the route. It is fun but its loose, the aproach can present serious problems, the belay is wierd and getting back down you can get hurt if you are not careful, we even had a big horn sheep with her baby up there yesterday. My comment was not to you. Sorry if you took any offense, I assure you none was intended.

liar.
you told me that guy is a total n00b and that he squats when he pees.
































ok, not really. just kidding Horstib and Texcala.



are the routes at the bug barn higher up and directly above, or are they direct extensions to the routes? I was at the upper bug barn in the late 90's and had a friend pull a big cooler sized rock off that landed right where I was standing to belay. I moved, but his fall was dragging me back into the rock fall. Spooky. That rock is great once its been cleaned. Hope the cleaning doesn't change the routes below too much. Cambrian Grey is one of the favorites.


Have you guys done any of those cracks on the quartzite in the mouth of the canyon? I hear there is a fun .11 splitter and was thinking about getting down to do it.


hortisb


Jun 25, 2005, 4:13 PM
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Did you see me pee'ing up in the canyon the other day??? I thought I was alone!!!


mrtristan


Jun 25, 2005, 6:48 PM
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In reply to:
are the routes at the bug barn higher up and directly above, or are they direct extensions to the routes? I was at the upper bug barn in the late 90's and had a friend pull a big cooler sized rock off that landed right where I was standing to belay. I moved, but his fall was dragging me back into the rock fall. Spooky. That rock is great once its been cleaned. Hope the cleaning doesn't change the routes below too much. Cambrian Grey is one of the favorites.


Have you guys done any of those cracks on the quartzite in the mouth of the canyon? I hear there is a fun .11 splitter and was thinking about getting down to do it.

Looking for a Legacy, the route above Cambrian Grey, is an extension of it. You can either do CG and then go right on through the extension or you can break it up into two pitches and belay at the top of Cambrian Grey. You need to do two rappels, though. The extension traverses right a bit from the top of CG before it turns the first roof. I dont think our cleaning effected Cambrian Grey or any of the other routes at all. We tried to throw most of the rocks off and if they did fall down, they fell to the right of Cambrian Grey.

Done lots of the cracks in Rock Canyon. 5.11 splitter?? ooooo. DO tell. Dont know about it. Wait... Maybe the one on the Meat Wall? It's on this site, I think. Piece of Meat, that's what it's called. That rock is SLIPPERY. Havent done that route though. Looks rad.

-Tristan


criscokid


Jun 27, 2005, 9:38 AM
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I finished the landing for Mr. Freeze Saturday. The trail is almost finished but, it's ready for traffic. As for how safe the climb is...if you were pulling lots of rock off...you were not staying on the line...but then again...most new climbs in the limestone have some loose rock. It's a lot of work to put up a new line. You can't expect it to be perfect. That's why new lines need traffic. So get out there yall and get em' up! I want to go up again later this week if anybody is up. That includes you Eric!!!


tenesmus


Jun 28, 2005, 6:23 PM
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In reply to:
That rock is SLIPPERY
I hear the same from everyone, but the line looks good. I gotta get down one of these mornings. Any of you guys interested in getting out early? Like 5:30 before work? I'd come down and try your new routes - they sound fun and that canyon is cool.


criscokid


Jun 28, 2005, 10:29 PM
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I'm headed up the canyon friday afternoon if anyone is interested...


mrtristan


Jun 29, 2005, 11:48 PM
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In reply to:
I'm headed up the canyon friday afternoon if anyone is interested...

To do what?


esallen


Jul 21, 2005, 7:16 PM
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I really enjoyed Mr. Freeze and am looking forward to doing Looking for a Legacy.


imove2fast


Aug 12, 2005, 1:26 PM
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I did Looking for a Lagacy last week. Fun to do a multipitch with a hanging belay like that. However, second pitch seemed a bit pale after climbing the first. Still worth doing. Thanks for putting it up.


criscokid


Aug 28, 2005, 12:26 AM
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After climbing looking for a legacy several times...I think that I will be adding a bolt or 2 up high on the final slabby part. but also, it's more fun to lead as one long pitch. But communication with the belayer can be hard if the wind is up.


lenexa


Sep 19, 2005, 11:54 AM
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If any of you route setters (or anyone on provo) need help cleaning or just need a partner, let me know. I just came back from oregon and my partner is graduated.

robby


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