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tmb202
Jun 16, 2005, 1:02 PM
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Looking for beta on ultra-classic multi-pitch trad routes in the 5.7-5.10 range (preferably cracks) in the Adirondacks. Would also like beta on climbs with a moderate approach and some that are close to the road. Thinking of taking a trip there in the fall.
Thanks!
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reno
Jun 16, 2005, 1:10 PM
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reno moved this thread from Community to US - East Coast.
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jackflash
Jun 16, 2005, 1:34 PM
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Thats a big place. You'll get better responses if you tell people the level at which you want to climb, if you're looking for multipitch, if you want stuff close to the road or want to hike a lot, whether you want to do cracks, slab, etc.
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sbaclimber
Jun 16, 2005, 2:30 PM
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In reply to: Thats a big place. You'll get better responses if you tell people the level at which you want to climb, if you're looking for multipitch, if you want stuff close to the road or want to hike a lot, whether you want to do cracks, slab, etc.
Also, definitely get a copy of the the guide. I think there is kind of a list of classics in that as well.....(haven't looked at the guide in years).
For someone climbing at around my level, back when I was climbing in the Daks (<=5.9), I would suggest:
1) Little Finger Direct - Roger's Rock
2) Regular Route - Chapel Pond Slab
3) Live Free Or Die, Labatt-Ami, Frosted Mug - Beer Walls
4) Wiessner Route - Washbowl (haven't done it myself)
........ many more
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polarwid
Jun 16, 2005, 3:34 PM
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Be sure to add...
PETE'S FAREWELL and THE EL---Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
GAMESMANSHIP and THE GREAT DIHEDRAL---Pok-O-Moonshine
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tradmanclimbs
Jun 16, 2005, 3:36 PM
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Ultra classic multi pitch Climbs only 8^)
Washbowl Cliff
#1, Hessitation 5.8
#2 overture w/ the prelude5.8 start
#3 Partition 5.8 (really solid 5.9) with many different starts. Butterflys Fly free 5.9 recomendedas a start or weisners 5.5
Poko
#1 gamesmanship 5.8
#2 Bloody mary 5.9.
#3 Fastest Gun 5.10
Rojers rock
Little finger w/ the direct finish or start or whatever combination you can get on without doing p2 of littlerfinger directwhich is 5.8X. Even Don Mellor backed off of that pitch :shock:
A bit of cragging at the beer walls would round out the trip.
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sbaclimber
Jun 16, 2005, 4:23 PM
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In reply to: Little finger w/ the direct finish or start or whatever combination you can get on without doing p2 of littlerfinger directwhich is 5.8X. Even Don Mellor backed off of that pitch :shock:
I saw that in the beta here on RC.com, and I haven't quite figured out why anyone would even bother with an XX variant of what I am familiar with as 'Little Finger Direct' (P1=bolts, P2=traverse up&L to crack, follow crack to bulge, P3=through bulge, P4=either exit R, or contiue up and around L of small headwall)....
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polarwid
Jun 16, 2005, 4:34 PM
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polarwid moved this thread from US - East Coast to Regional Discussions.
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