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Two new routes at Lover Leap on Dear John Buttress
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chrismcnamara


Jun 19, 2005, 10:20 PM
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Registered: Apr 20, 2003
Posts: 94

Two new routes at Lover Leap on Dear John Buttress  (North_America: United_States: California: Lake_Tahoe: Lovers_Leap)
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I just put up two new routes today with SuperTopo designer David Safanda. They are on the Northwest Face of Dear John Buttress (the part that faces the campground).

The routes are:
Airwaves - 5.10b
Airtime - 5.10a

Both routes are mostly gear with some bolts (drilled ground up). Both are super-super-exposed and go to a true cool summit (a rare thing for a Lover's Leap route). Both routes can be climbed in 190-super stretcher pitches... or you can cut them into smaller lenghts to cut down on roper drag. if you want to lead them in 190' pitches, you need to use TONS of runners to reduce rope drag.

On the topo below, i also included two other routes.

http://www.supertopo.com/topos/obscurities/dearjohn_nw_face_topo.jpg


chrismcnamara


Jun 20, 2005, 7:48 AM
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Re: Two new routes at Lover Leap on Dear John Buttress [In reply to]
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David Safanda did this photodiagram of the route
http://img224.echo.cx/...420/newroutes9pm.jpg


chrismcnamara


Jun 20, 2005, 6:19 PM
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Re: Two new routes at Lover Leap on Dear John Buttress [In reply to]
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oops. i climbed them again today and they feel harder. Airtime is 10b and Airwaves is 10d


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